Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.

[redneckrothrock]

Help please Greasytee.
I have a 05 Hino 165 in the shop with a jo5d-ta in it. It is a farmers truck with all the ugliness that implies. I was told he thought "they" over-reved it but the wrecker driver said it had been to 3 shops recently and 2 had worked on the top end. 2 or 3 castings that hold the rocker shaft down along with a 1/2 dozen cam/rocker bolts are broken and a bunch of the caps on the end of the adjusting screws are blown off and scattered. Looks like all [?] the damage was on the back 2 cylinders but I'm sure the entire valve train was "overstressed". I'm afraid this could turn into a complete overhaul which would probably exceed the value of the truck. Looking for some advise. How tough are these things? Can the pistons withstand some valve slamming? How about the rods? Crank? How expensive are the head parts? I don't want to waste a lot of time tearing into this thing if there is a good chance it will need a complete overhaul, I would rather spend the time looking for a used engine. Thanks for the help, you do good work here.

 

[wheelcheck]

If the red wire with black tracer has 12v on it, and the ecu parameters are set correctly, it should rev the engine to whatever speed was preset. So either it wasn't set correctly (which is kind of forgivable because the DXII software is not intuitive in it's use AT ALL), or something is taking precedent over the PTO. When setting the pto up like this, the normal fashion is to go into the customization menu in the ECU using DXII and setting the 'preset pto flag' from 0 to 1. Simply clicking on the line and hitting 'ok' doesn't do anything. 'preset pto engine speed #1' value is set to 1250 (or whatever) at the same time. It's easy to eff this up. You can tell I've done it wrong more than once. You won't be able to tell if this is done correctly without DXII.

On your other trucks, is the accelerator pedal disabled, or can you rev the engine with the pto on? Sometimes things are set up like that, and it's possible that the accelerator pedal is damaged showing some throttle application and therefore keeping the pto from activating. Try to pull up on the pedal. I've seen damaged pedals cause regen issues on later trucks since the manual regen process demands the truck stay at an ecu-controlled speed, rather than accelerator pedal selected speed.

Same thing with brakes. The pto setup deal on these is extremely customizable, but very little documentation exists on how to do much other than setting preset speeds. The brake light switches on these things require periodic adjustment and if it's way off it'll cause dumb problems.

Air or juice brakes?

This is hard to answer without being right there with the computer.

On this truck and the other trucks I have, you can rev the engine with the pto engaged. They all have juice brakes and I have encountered problems with the switches before (no brake lights, prohibiting acceleration, etc..) but this switch seems to be functioning properly. I will try to pull up on the accelerator pedal before bringing it back to the dealer with a print out of your instructions.

 

[greasytshirt]

On this truck and the other trucks I have, you can rev the engine with the pto engaged. They all have juice brakes and I have encountered problems with the switches before (no brake lights, prohibiting acceleration, etc..) but this switch seems to be functioning properly. I will try to pull up on the accelerator pedal before bringing it back to the dealer with a print out of your instructions.

If they look on Hinonet there is a procedure on how exactly to do it. It's under service info-->accessory instructions-->2008-2010 pto idle up instructions. There's no real difference (from what I can tell) between the your truck and these slightly later ones in regards to ecu wiring and the like.

 

[greasytshirt]

Help please Greasytee.
I have a 05 Hino 165 in the shop with a jo5d-ta in it. It is a farmers truck with all the ugliness that implies.

Let me guess: It has a white grille. Those are some ugly-ass trucks.

I was told he thought "they" over-reved it but the wrecker driver said it had been to 3 shops recently and 2 had worked on the top end. 2 or 3 castings that hold the rocker shaft down along with a 1/2 dozen cam/rocker bolts are broken and a bunch of the caps on the end of the adjusting screws are blown off and scattered. Looks like all [?] the damage was on the back 2 cylinders but I'm sure the entire valve train was "overstressed". I'm afraid this could turn into a complete overhaul which would probably exceed the value of the truck. Looking for some advise. How tough are these things? Can the pistons withstand some valve slamming? How about the rods? Crank? How expensive are the head parts? I don't want to waste a lot of time tearing into this thing if there is a good chance it will need a complete overhaul, I would rather spend the time looking for a used engine. Thanks for the help, you do good work here.

I'd just skip ahead to the used engine idea. Maybe someone dropped something into the gear train. Maybe it over-revved. Maybe there was a lube failure and the camshaft seized (they will bend and twist if you try hard enough, and the locating pin between the shaft and gear will shear or deform the cam). Maybe a previous shop damaged the injector fuel return line, causing an internal fuel leak which then caused the engine to run away. Maybe the valves were never adjusted and they were so loose they allowed the crosshead to jump off of the tip of the valve, land on the retainers, and the next time the rocker pressed down it launched all the valve locks and in an instant dropped two valves. In any case, it needs a head. The rods will bend; I bet the rear rods are bent if there was significant piston-to-valve contact. The pistons are aluminum and they may have just absorbed the hit. Going into the gear train is going to be a huge pain in the ass if you've never done one before. This is quickly going to exceed the value of the truck.

 

[redneckrothrock]

Yeah it's ugly alright! Thanks for the insight. The run away idea sounds about right with what little I know. At least one injector looks like it was monkeyed with the cam wasn’t starved for oil and it doesn’t look like the head was off recently. Give me a good service manual and I will work on anything but as I get older I no longer seek out "huge pain in the ass" jobs. Anything to watch out for in used? I'm thinking along the lines of ECM's, model year changes, auto or standard [this one is auto] etc. etc.. It would be nice to make the swap as painless as possible, I already have enough problems with all the rusted/corroded parts and pieces.

 

[wheelcheck]

If they look on Hinonet there is a procedure on how exactly to do it. It's under service info-->accessory instructions-->2008-2010 pto idle up instructions. There's no real difference (from what I can tell) between the your truck and these slightly later ones in regards to ecu wiring and the like.

Tried pulling up on the pedal this morning, no dice. The body shop called and told me Hino told them it's possible that the red wire with black tracer isn't pinned into the ecu on that truck and I might need to buy some sort of module to plug into the ecu. Thoughts?

 

[greasytshirt]

Tried pulling up on the pedal this morning, no dice. The body shop called and told me Hino told them it's possible that the red wire with black tracer isn't pinned into the ecu on that truck and I might need to buy some sort of module to plug into the ecu. Thoughts?

I'd have to look that up. I haven't heard of that.

 

[greasytshirt]

Yeah it's ugly alright! Thanks for the insight. The run away idea sounds about right with what little I know. At least one injector looks like it was monkeyed with the cam wasn’t starved for oil and it doesn’t look like the head was off recently. Give me a good service manual and I will work on anything but as I get older I no longer seek out "huge pain in the ass" jobs. Anything to watch out for in used? I'm thinking along the lines of ECM's, model year changes, auto or standard [this one is auto] etc. etc.. It would be nice to make the swap as painless as possible, I already have enough problems with all the rusted/corroded parts and pieces.

Id keep it between an 05-07 model without a dpf. In any case, different injectors will need their calibration codes entered into the ecm. The ecm in the truck will be fine to reuse. The new old injectors may need evaluation to see if they're healthy, and id reuse whichever turbo has the least shaft play and doesnt stick when spinning it.

Replace the exhaust studs and hardware with the new updated ones they have. Have the exhaust manifold milled flat. The old studs are guaranteed to break eventually.

 

[walemurphsprin]

I'm working on a 2010 hino and the air compressor seized up, I pulled it out and found the bearing and retainer came out and ran though the gear train, One gear at least has been damaged. my question is to remove the gear housing does the head have to come off. I no the rear of the head overlaps this housing. also having not yet had the gears apart in our shop is there any specialty tooling I will need. we have the service book for a 08-10 engine but this one must be late 2010 because it is slightly different. Has the gear train changed since then. Thanks for your help

 

[greasytshirt]

I'm working on a 2010 hino and the air compressor seized up, I pulled it out and found the bearing and retainer came out and ran though the gear train, One gear at least has been damaged. my question is to remove the gear housing does the head have to come off. I no the rear of the head overlaps this housing. also having not yet had the gears apart in our shop is there any specialty tooling I will need. we have the service book for a 08-10 engine but this one must be late 2010 because it is slightly different. Has the gear train changed since then. Thanks for your help

The head should come off. Our attempts have always mangled the head gasket. The oil pan has to come off too. Use this opportunity to see if the wrist pin bushings are walking out of the rods. You can look up there with a flashlight. This was an occasional problem for a few engines made in late 2010.

The compressor idler gear and cover have been updated, and the torque on that one idler bolt has increased greatly. I'll have to look it up.

There's one in the shop right now that did the same thing. Problem is the customer took it apart first, let it get rained in, and lost half the bolts. What a mess.

 

[walemurphsprin]

thats what I was afraid of, oh well. that updated cover do you mean the gear housing that the bell housing bolts too our is there one for the compressor. I haven't gotten any farther than removing the compressor. what about special tools. I've only done Volvo's and they have some centering pins and gear holders to set the lash. just curious if we need to order anything special

 

[walemurphsprin]

can I get manuals off hino net. I though I use to be able too but cant seem to find any now

 

[greasytshirt]

thats what I was afraid of, oh well. that updated cover do you mean the gear housing that the bell housing bolts too our is there one for the compressor. I haven't gotten any farther than removing the compressor. what about special tools. I've only done Volvo's and they have some centering pins and gear holders to set the lash. just curious if we need to order anything special

The plate the compressor bolts to. This plate has an idler gear bolted to the back of it and historically it's been a weak point.

There are no gear lash adjustments possible.

You will need the removal/installation tool for the rear main seal. It will be extremely difficult to install correctly without damaging it.

On Hinonet you should be able to go to literature and buy the book. You want the 11-13MY J08E engine book. The computer server for the literature section was down the other day, that may be what you had run into.

 

[walemurphsprin]

do they have electronic versions for download

 

[greasytshirt]

do they have electronic versions for download

On some they do. It'll show a pdf download or something.

 

[JGMMDURAMAX]

Hi all. I've been working on Hino trucks almost exclusively for the last few years, and I'm pretty familiar with their ins and outs at this point. If anyone has a question, I'll be happy to answer it, if I know the answer.

Having a problem with 2008 185 throttle response from a dead stop almost a 4sec. delay and then slowly accelerates, things get a bit stressful when crossing a busy hi-way

 

[greasytshirt]

Having a problem with 2008 185 throttle response from a dead stop almost a 4sec. delay and then slowly accelerates, things get a bit stressful when crossing a busy hi-way

Check the brake pedal switch. Make sure the button is pressed in all the way when the pedal is at rest. There are two switches. Your after the upper one.

Remove the intake throttle valve. Clean all the crap out of it. Inspect the throttle shaft and butterfly for looseness or wear, or any sticking. Replace if there's any question.

 

[greasytshirt]

do they have electronic versions for download

I checked the site the other day. I think their vendor for literature is having to rebuild their server. It's pretty messed up.

 

[JGMMDURAMAX]

Check the brake pedal switch. Make sure the button is pressed in all the way when the pedal is at rest. There are two switches. Your after the upper one.

Remove the intake throttle valve. Clean all the crap out of it. Inspect the throttle shaft and butterfly for looseness or wear, or any sticking. Replace if there's any question.

Brake switch is functioning correctly and cleaned out the intake throttle valve and throttle shaft and butterfly, no looseness or wear, or any sticking.

 

[greasytshirt]

Brake switch is functioning correctly and cleaned out the intake throttle valve and throttle shaft and butterfly, no looseness or wear, or any sticking.

Check engine light? Any codes? You can actually look up codes on this truck. Press the mode button in until a sub menu pops up. Tap up on the toggle switch until you hit 'self check'. Tap down to select. It may say "no codes". Hold up on the toggle until codes appear. Tap up(or down, I forget, just make sure it's a tap and not a hold) to cycle through them. Write down the recent ones and post them here.

If the truck doesn't think the brakes are applied, and the intake throttle valve isn't slamming shut, then the next thing I'd look at are how well the suction control valve responds to commands from the ecu. This is impossible to determine without software. You can throw one on for the hell of it, but that's a $250 guess (and it's a pain in the ass).

Occasionally we also see turbos that are completely worn out physically stall and create an airflow restriction. Yes, that has actually happened more than once.

Does it shift correctly once it gets going?

Back to the brake switch (because this problem is pervasively common). Unplug it. Does the truck accelerate normally? Now run a jumper wire across the terminals in the harness. Does it accelerate correctly?