Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.

[JGMMDURAMAX]

Check engine light? Any codes? You can actually look up codes on this truck. Press the mode button in until a sub menu pops up. Tap up on the toggle switch until you hit 'self check'. Tap down to select. It may say "no codes". Hold up on the toggle until codes appear. Tap up(or down, I forget, just make sure it's a tap and not a hold) to cycle through them. Write down the recent ones and post them here.

If the truck doesn't think the brakes are applied, and the intake throttle valve isn't slamming shut, then the next thing I'd look at are how well the suction control valve responds to commands from the ecu. This is impossible to determine without software. You can throw one on for the hell of it, but that's a $250 guess (and it's a pain in the ass).

Occasionally we also see turbos that are completely worn out physically stall and create an airflow restriction. Yes, that has actually happened more than once.

Does it shift correctly once it gets going?

Back to the brake switch (because this problem is pervasively common). Unplug it. Does the truck accelerate normally? Now run a jumper wire across the terminals in the harness. Does it accelerate correctly?

Here are the codes, Jul 11 U1123, Jul 9 P0102 P0113, Aug. 7 P0192 P0088

June we replaced the turbo due to the turbo squealing and lack of power , replaced it
with a rebuild and balanced turbo
No turbo squeal but still having a lack of power and shift points, engine light and would not rev up and going into limp mode
Took the truck to the Hino dealer in Winnipeg, Beaver Truck. and was told it was the turbo actuator and truck will need a new turbo.
Got hold of MS Turbo who supplied the rebuild turbo, and explained a VNT actuator was needed, they shipped a replacement
Installed the replacement VNT actuator and no change still a lack of power and shift points and engine light and limp mode
Returned the truck back to the Hino Dealer and a NEW turbo was installed did this solve the problem NO it did not and $4000 later for a new turbo
The engine light is still coming on and still not rev up and in limp mode. and we are now in the month of August
Had been resetting the ecm by disconnecting the battery cables and taking notice the truck engine light was coming on only when the Econ/Power switch beside the shifter had been in the Econ switch position for the engine light to come on placing the truck back into limp mode
When the selector switch is in the Power position no engine light no limp mode but still having a lack of power and poor shift points and a new Hino turbo the VNT controller that was told would fix the problems and it is now August 22 will be returning the truck back to the dealer

 

[greasytshirt]

Here are the codes, Jul 11 U1123, Jul 9 P0102 P0113, Aug. 7 P0192 P0088

June we replaced the turbo due to the turbo squealing and lack of power , replaced it
with a rebuild and balanced turbo
No turbo squeal but still having a lack of power and shift points, engine light and would not rev up and going into limp mode
Took the truck to the Hino dealer in Winnipeg, Beaver Truck. and was told it was the turbo actuator and truck will need a new turbo.
Got hold of MS Turbo who supplied the rebuild turbo, and explained a VNT actuator was needed, they shipped a replacement
Installed the replacement VNT actuator and no change still a lack of power and shift points and engine light and limp mode
Returned the truck back to the Hino Dealer and a NEW turbo was installed did this solve the problem NO it did not and $4000 later for a new turbo
The engine light is still coming on and still not rev up and in limp mode. and we are now in the month of August
Had been resetting the ecm by disconnecting the battery cables and taking notice the truck engine light was coming on only when the Econ/Power switch beside the shifter had been in the Econ switch position for the engine light to come on placing the truck back into limp mode
When the selector switch is in the Power position no engine light no limp mode but still having a lack of power and poor shift points and a new Hino turbo the VNT controller that was told would fix the problems and it is now August 22 will be returning the truck back to the dealer

Good god.

Totally busy at the moment but will address in detail later.

 

[JGMMDURAMAX]

Good god.

Totally busy at the moment but will address in detail later.

And forgot to mention the truck has been needing to regen twice a day 350 km

 

[A+ Statewide]

i have a 2014 hino 258alp jo8e-vc engine. my a/c compressor clutch does not kick on anymore. so i have no cold air. i check the a/c1 fuse and a/c2 fuse, both are good. is there anything else i can look at to try and figure out what the problem may be? Thanks.... oh forgot mention my radio stop working also and the fuses work good on them as well? Thanks...the truck is only 2 months old, 38 thousand miles.

 

[greasytshirt]

i have a 2014 hino 258alp jo8e-vc engine. my a/c compressor clutch does not kick on anymore. so i have no cold air. i check the a/c1 fuse and a/c2 fuse, both are good. is there anything else i can look at to try and figure out what the problem may be? Thanks.... oh forgot mention my radio stop working also and the fuses work good on them as well? Thanks...the truck is only 2 months old, 38 thousand miles.

Check the 'room light' fuse.

 

[greasytshirt]

And forgot to mention the truck has been needing to regen twice a day 350 km

To confirm, it wants to manually regen every 350km because the DPR graph hit five bars, correct?

I'm going to split this into three parts: What might be wrong with it, items that you can check and replace without needing Hino DX software, and what I would check if it was sitting in front of me.

What's wrong: Incomplete regen, failure to auto regen, low power, CEL.
U1123 CAN communication lost between ecu and VNT controller
P0102 Air flow sensor circuit low input
P0113 Intake air temperature circuit high input
P0088 High rail pressure

P0088 basically only shows up when the SCV (suction control valve, aka fuel pressure regulator) starts getting stuck. I would just stick a new one on. It's a pain in the ass to reach. I have a 5mm, 6 inch long ball-end allen driver that I use to get it out.

You will want to get the p/n and s/n off of the fuel pump so they will give you the right one. Or take it off and carry it into the dealer parts department. Yours may be an early scv, which means the kit will come with a small adapter plate. If you get the wrong one, the truck will be completely undriveable.

U1123 means that the ecu has lost communication with the VNT. This is less common than P0045, which means the ecu has communication with the VNT, but the VNT doesn't react properly. I have replaced turbos because of relentless U1123 and that has fixed the problem, but I've also addressed some more fundamental electrical issues (which we'll get into in a minute) and that has solved U1123 for just the cost of time.

P0102 and P0113 are related in that the maf and iat sensors are both contained within the same sensor. The deal here is that these are pretty tough and I'd suspect a possible harness problem if a temporary test with a new sensor didn't fix it immediately.

Failure to regen:
Let's just pretend that P2002 DPR malfunction is on that list. Because it is, in spirit.

A manual regen every 350km is absurd. An automatic regen is taking place every 150km. Whenever the DPR gauge hits three bars and the vehicle is moving, it's going to attempt an auto regen. your truck should complete an auto regen in less than 10 minutes of driving, maybe as low as 5. If you were constantly on the move, you might have thousands of auto regens and no manual regens.

Question: How long are your idle times?
Question: Do you leave the exhaust brake on all of the time? It should be treated like a one-time event, rather than being left on constantly.

For an auto regen to be successful, the intake throttle valve needs to open most of the way, the VNT needs to limit boost, the mass airflow sensor needs to accurately calculate how much air is going into the engine, the EGR valve needs to shut most of the way, and the injectors need to be in half decent shape. Post injection will heat up the Diesel Oxidation Catalyst (DOC), which will heat the DPF up enough to support combustion. When that temp is reached, more air is introduced with less post injection, and the soot burns out of the DPF.

A manual regen is similar, but the ITV shuts some to limit airflow and the exhaust brake shuts. The amount that the exhaust brake closes is critical, and as the injectors age, the brake needs to be adjusted to compensate.

Part 2 coming up.

 

[greasytshirt]

I communicate best with type, generally speaking.

Part two: What you can do right now. Do all of the simple stuff so you don't have to pay anyone else to do it.

Take the batteries completely out of the truck, clean them off and clean the terminals. Clean the cable clamps. Bare, pure metal, no anything else. If you have ty half melted connectors, try to hit a mailbox with them on the way to the parts store. Load test the out of the batteries. If one is marginal, replace them both.

Half dead, partially shorted out batteries cause so many problems, yet no one ever thinks of checking them. Sorry, just having a moment of righteous indignation.

Clean every ground wire you can find. The frame of the trucks did not have the paint removed where the ground wire attaches, so it only makes connection through the threads. When water gets in there and rust forms, the connection degrades. There's one wire that's very important, the ground strap between the left rear of the cab and the frame. The ecu grounds to this one. Also check the negative battery cable to frame, and the pigtail on that stud. Look for corrosion wicking into the wire.

Check every harness connector on the right side of the engine, especially everything near the turbo. There's a connector between two sections of harness on that side that can be hard to press together. Unplugging it and plugging it all the way back in fixed a U1123 one time just as a turbo was about to get replaced. The connector just needed a little extra push to go all the way back together.

Make sure the MAF sensor is plugged in. That one is easy to overlook. It will cause low power and failure to regen.

Replace the SCV. There is a relearn procedure for it, but it'll learn itself after it's warmed up and driven for a few minutes.

There is a junction box behind the air filter. Remove the air filter and the front fender so you can stick your head all the way in there and see well. Are all the screws still in that cover? Is there evidence of moisture being inside? Disconnect the batteries then disconnect all of these plugs. Look carefully for evidence of corrosion on the pins, and at the wire crimps (looking in from the rear, where the wires enter). If there is evidence of corrosion, the terminals need to be replaced. The newest trucks have a snap on cover with a foam strip inside that appears to shrink over time. We're seeing water ingress in these, causing havoc. The old bolt on covers were superior as long as all the bolts were put back in.

Stick your finger inside the tailpipe (lol). Does it come out black? If so, the DPF is toast. Look deep inside with a flashlight. There's a tube with a pile of holes around the perimeter. Does it look like rocks or something are stuck in some of the holes? If there is, the back of the DPF has burst. You're gonna need a new one.

 

[greasytshirt]

Part three:

My first task would be to evaluate the health of the injectors. Degraded injectors won't necessarily cause low power, but they will cause excess soot. I'd do an SCV test; this test is designed to evaluate response of the SCV compared to the demands of the ecu, command and actual values for pressure out of the injection pump, and injection quantity at various rpm. If outside of these parameters, I'm gonna recommend a set of injectors with a warning that the DPF is likely to melt if they aren't replaced.

I'd check the function of the ITV, and do a physical inspection of it. If it sticks or has wear, it needs a new one.

I'd compare the mass air readings from the MAF with that of a new sensor. Maybe clean it out with contact cleaner if it looked dirty. Maybe stick a new one on temporarily and see what it does.

I'd look at the max outlet temp of the DPF. If it exceeded 1485*F, it's gonna need a new one. Sometimes they get damaged at a lower temp, but 1485 is the theoretical maximum.

I'd adjust the exhaust brake to 12cc and do a manual regen. Then I'd set the DPR graph to three bars and let the truck do an auto regen while I drove around with the laptop connected. I'd be looking at ITV, boost, injection quantity, mass airflow, DPF inlet and outlet temps and differential pressure across the DPF.

If during either regen temps were slow to rise, I'd remove the DPR assembly and look at the DOC for evidence of melting.

I'd also look at the circuit for IAT and MAF and see if there was commonality. Maybe just temporarily stick a new MAF on there to see if the the problems went away. If they didn't, then I'd be checking the circuits between the ECU and the MAF for continuity, and check the power and ground sources for that sensor.

 

[bob1978]

Hi greasyshirt,
hope you can help me out here with the issue, I ran through threads but didnt find anything related.

2015 Hino (I think it is 268)
our mechanics have replaced the whole DPR unit from another truck, since it was damaged
everything was put together and cannected
but now, we have a light and codes that wont let it to move

I am using Hino DX and our Nexiq usb2 cable, but for this particular truck it gives an error message:
"Failed to read part number .(00000085)"
it reads the codes though, but the "System Fix" button in inactive
I tried to look up the codes (hino manual -2013) with no much luck for DCU codes

the codes are
Engine:
P204F - Active
P04D5 - Inactive
P20CD - Inactive
U010C - Inactive
U010A - Inactive

DCU:
U02A2 - Active
U02A2 - Active
P20C1 - Active

The only I found is for DCU: "19074 Voltage supply 2 -tube heaters (UB2) electrical | Open circuit to UB2 | P20C1 Reagent -suction tube heating -open circuit"

Any help will be appreciated
Thanks,
Bob

 

[greasytshirt]

Hi greasyshirt,
hope you can help me out here with the issue, I ran through threads but didnt find anything related.

2015 Hino (I think it is 268)
our mechanics have replaced the whole DPR unit from another truck, since it was damaged
everything was put together and cannected
but now, we have a light and codes that wont let it to move

I am using Hino DX and our Nexiq usb2 cable, but for this particular truck it gives an error message:
"Failed to read part number .(00000085)"
it reads the codes though, but the "System Fix" button in inactive
I tried to look up the codes (hino manual -2013) with no much luck for DCU codes

the codes are
Engine:
P204F - Active
P04D5 - Inactive
P20CD - Inactive
U010C - Inactive
U010A - Inactive

DCU:
U02A2 - Active
U02A2 - Active
P20C1 - Active

The only I found is for DCU: "19074 Voltage supply 2 -tube heaters (UB2) electrical | Open circuit to UB2 | P20C1 Reagent -suction tube heating -open circuit"

Any help will be appreciated
Thanks,
Bob

I don't have a 2015 manual in front of me, so it will be difficult to answer this in depth. The 2015 is a different bird, having ditched the burner system of the 11-14 trucks. One thing it has in common with the 2014 are heated DEF lines. The hoses themselves have been wrapped with a heating element.

And that's where your problem is for U02A2 and P20C1, somewhere in the line heaters and DEF tank sensor. Make sure that the lines are competely and correctly plugged into the DEF tank connectors. Also check to see that the DCU is plugged in all the way and that no pins were bent in the DCU connector.
There is a TSB out for U02A2. It wants you to troubleshoot the DEF heater circuits. If the troubleshooting leads you to the DEF tank sensor, a more robust part is available. The failure of this part will be covered under warranty.

Why did you have to swap the whole system? What damaged it? Did someone try to steal it? Run over a trailer hitch? I like the juicy details.

As far as original DX not communicating with it, it's possible that you'll never get it to work. DX was abandoned in favor of DXII, and it's possible that there are no updates available to allow it to communicate with 2015 DCU software. I don't know, but this sounds likely.


Edit: 2015 manuals now in front of me.

P04D5 Exhaust brake circuit fault
P20CD Fuel dosing valve low voltage

The fuel dosing valve is part of the 7th injector system. It's seeing low voltage. This and the exhaust brake are critical for regens. They both share something in common: the ECU actuator relays and fuses( U2 ACT fuse, relay). One of these fuses is in the small fuse box next to the air filter (check them all), and the relay and more fuses are in the fusebox underneath the truck (probably located inside the right frame rail behind the cab).

U010C VNT actuator CAN communication error.
U010A EGR valve control CAN communication error

Yikes. Don't worry, neither of these hella expensive pieces have taken a dump. But the ECU cannot talk to them. Guess what they have in common? The DEF tank sensor is on the same CAN. Also, the VNT and EGR are both powered by the U2 ACT fuses and relays.

So sort out the DEF tank sensor deal, and see if the U2 ACT fuses and relays are good.

I like my prime rib still mooing.

Edit #2: This is a general warning/reminder not to check the CAN network with a Power Probe, lest ye accidently juice up the whole network with 12v and cook $10k worth of computers.

Edit #3: Without being able to talk to the DCU, you still may have to tow it in to get the codes on the DCU erased. If you are able to fix it, you may be able to get away with resetting the 'SCR related memory'. This is done from the ECU diagnosis menu, under activation test. You may also have to activate 'release repeat offense', which is the result of something in the DCU triggereing a code too many times, setting a hard, unclearable code in the ECU.

In this case, if you manage to fix it, the codes will still be in the DCU but in an inactive state, and the ECU might not be limiting speed or power. I'd drive it to the dealer at that point and have everything cleared.

If your intent is to fix this truck yourself in the future, you need DXII software, the two chassis books (at least book #2 for the wiring diagrams), and the three troubleshooting books. The three troubleshooting books have over a thousand pages each. You need these. They will pay for themselves.

 

[paradisecustom]

Hi Greasyshirt, Can you please call me (Barry) at 717-687-6001 any time after 5:00 PM? I have a concern with my 2008 Hino and would like to speak with you in person, rather than try to type my concerns in a thread. Thanks so much!

 

[greasytshirt]

Hi Greasyshirt, Can you please call me (Barry) at 717-687-6001 any time after 5:00 PM? I have a concern with my 2008 Hino and would like to speak with you in person, rather than try to type my concerns in a thread. Thanks so much!

Per our conversation:

To get history codes from the dash, first hold in the 'Mode' button until a sub-menu pops up.
Release the mode button.
Tap up on the up/down toggle until 'system check' is highlighted.
Tap down on the toggle. The screen will suggest that there are no codes.
Hold the toggle up for 10+ seconds. If there are codes stored in the dash, they will pop up with a time stamp.
Tap up on the toggle to cycle through them. Write them down along with the date.
Press the mode button to return to the main menu.

If there are any codes, post them here with the time stamp.

 

[paradisecustom]

Hi Greasyshirt, Can you please call me (Barry) at 717-687-6001 any time after 5:00 PM? I have a concern with my 2008 Hino and would like to speak with you in person, rather than try to type my concerns in a thread. Thanks so much!

Per our conversation:

To get history codes from the dash, first hold in the 'Mode' button until a sub-menu pops up.
Release the mode button.
Tap up on the up/down toggle until 'system check' is highlighted.
Tap down on the toggle. The screen will suggest that there are no codes.
Hold the toggle up for 10+ seconds. If there are codes stored in the dash, they will pop up with a time stamp.
Tap up on the toggle to cycle through them. Write them down along with the date.
Press the mode button to return to the main menu.

If there are any codes, post them here with the time stamp.

There are 5 codes:

20h 01Mar P0087
07h 11Jul P0045
08h 18Jul U1123
10h 18Jul P0122
10h 18Jul P2103

 

[greasytshirt]

There are 5 codes:

20h 01Mar P0087
07h 11Jul P0045
08h 18Jul U1123
10h 18Jul P0122
10h 18Jul P2103

Was the turbo replaced before you got the truck?

Is the date and time on the dash set accuately?

 

[paradisecustom]

Was the turbo replaced before you got the truck?

Is the date and time on the dash set accuately?

I've put a call in to the original owner about the turbo and he was going to check the service records and get back to me. As of this moment, however, I haven't heard from him.

On the Information Screen, the date is correct, but we don't see a time anywhere. The only clock in the truck is on the radio and I don't believe that would even come into play for any of this.

 

[greasytshirt]

I've put a call in to the original owner about the turbo and he was going to check the service records and get back to me. As of this moment, however, I haven't heard from him.

On the Information Screen, the date is correct, but we don't see a time anywhere. The only clock in the truck is on the radio and I don't believe that would even come into play for any of this.

U1123 and P0045 are both indicative of VNT failure. Sometimes there are unrelated causes.

The timestamp is only as accurate as the time set on the dash. 11-up trucks also save hour and minute.

 

[paradisecustom]

After some investigating, my wife discovered the clock on the Hino IS the one in the radio. This clock is 2 hrs ahead of Eastern Time. We tried resetting it from Central Time to Eastern Time when we bought the truck, and again when Eastern Standard went to Daylight Savings Time, but weren't able to. We followed the manual, but it will not change. How important is this clock to the overall function?

 

[greasytshirt]

After some investigating, my wife discovered the clock on the Hino IS the one in the radio. This clock is 2 hrs ahead of Eastern Time. We tried resetting it from Central Time to Eastern Time when we bought the truck, and again when Eastern Standard went to Daylight Savings Time, but weren't able to. We followed the manual, but it will not change. How important is this clock to the overall function?

It's not, the date is the most important. It gives you clues about what went wrong first and if there are cascading failures.

 

[JGMMDURAMAX]

I communicate best with type, generally speaking.

Part two: What you can do right now. Do all of the simple stuff so you don't have to pay anyone else to do it.

Take the batteries completely out of the truck, clean them off and clean the terminals. Clean the cable clamps. Bare, pure metal, no anything else. If you have ****ty half melted connectors, try to hit a mailbox with them on the way to the parts store. Load test the **** out of the batteries. If one is marginal, replace them both.

Half dead, partially shorted out batteries cause so many problems, yet no one ever thinks of checking them. Sorry, just having a moment of righteous indignation.

Clean every ground wire you can find. The frame of the trucks did not have the paint removed where the ground wire attaches, so it only makes connection through the threads. When water gets in there and rust forms, the connection degrades. There's one wire that's very important, the ground strap between the left rear of the cab and the frame. The ecu grounds to this one. Also check the negative battery cable to frame, and the pigtail on that stud. Look for corrosion wicking into the wire.

Check every harness connector on the right side of the engine, especially everything near the turbo. There's a connector between two sections of harness on that side that can be hard to press together. Unplugging it and plugging it all the way back in fixed a U1123 one time just as a turbo was about to get replaced. The connector just needed a little extra push to go all the way back together.

Make sure the MAF sensor is plugged in. That one is easy to overlook. It will cause low power and failure to regen.

Replace the SCV. There is a relearn procedure for it, but it'll learn itself after it's warmed up and driven for a few minutes.

There is a junction box behind the air filter. Remove the air filter and the front fender so you can stick your head all the way in there and see well. Are all the screws still in that cover? Is there evidence of moisture being inside? Disconnect the batteries then disconnect all of these plugs. Look carefully for evidence of corrosion on the pins, and at the wire crimps (looking in from the rear, where the wires enter). If there is evidence of corrosion, the terminals need to be replaced. The newest trucks have a snap on cover with a foam strip inside that appears to shrink over time. We're seeing water ingress in these, causing havoc. The old bolt on covers were superior as long as all the bolts were put back in.

Stick your finger inside the tailpipe (lol). Does it come out black? If so, the DPF is toast. Look deep inside with a flashlight. There's a tube with a pile of holes around the perimeter. Does it look like rocks or something are stuck in some of the holes? If there is, the back of the DPF has burst. You're gonna need a new one.

Today I pulled off the SCV and wrote down the the part numbers 366 07N-60003
went to Beaver Truck Sales the Hino dealer here in Winnipeg and was told there is no SCV listed and he never heard of a SCV , I showed him where it was on the screen where it was located on the pump and the pump was only available guessing at a price well over $1700 and never has been one in stock.

The SCV is it the solenoid getting weak or would be the small o-ring leaking pressure

Is there somewhere you know of where I can purchase a SCV

 

[greasytshirt]

Today I pulled off the SCV and wrote down the the part numbers 366 07N-60003
went to Beaver Truck Sales the Hino dealer here in Winnipeg and was told there is no SCV listed and he never heard of a SCV , I showed him where it was on the screen where it was located on the pump and the pump was only available guessing at a price well over $1700 and never has been one in stock.

The SCV is it the solenoid getting weak or would be the small o-ring leaking pressure

Is there somewhere you know of where I can purchase a SCV

Your dealer sucks.

Post a pic of your scv if possible.

The scv sticks and the ecu can't control it properly. This causes dips and spikes in fuel pressure.

I will pm you a phone number.