Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.

[greasytshirt]

Went to take the flatbed on a call, and when I started it, check engine light was on, along with the info center saying scr malfunction, pulled the codes with a regular obd2 scanner
P204f
Reluctant system performance bank 1
P205d
Reluctant tank sensor high

Erased the check engine, started the truck and the check engine came on within a minute

Ok, one of your earlier posts was a forebearer of things to come. The corrosion in the junction connector box is a big, big problem.

Every pin in that box with corrosion needs to be replaced. It's not good enough to just clean the contacts. Corrosion has begun to wick inside the wire itself, and on some trucks this is causing mayhem.

There is a wire repair kit and an updated cover available. There are special terminal pin lock release tools available (not 100% necessary, but very helpful). The wires need to be cut back until the corrosion is gone then a new piece of harness pigtail soldered on and covered with heatshrink.

This needs to be done first.

 

[greasytshirt]

New to the forum as well as the site not realy sure how to navigate. My 2008 258 is in the shop now they are saying the turbo is needing replaced at 4700 American dollars. Sent it in because it has been out of service for a while wanted to get it back up and running. For starters we bought the truck new in 09its life has been mostly in town as a flat bed (roll back) the truck has been in what I want to call limp mode but then starter stopped in gaging by the key. The dealer says I have to replace the turbo due to the fact that the waste gate is stuck open or shut and the actuator is not working. The system check is calling for dpr or regen. My belief is that the warnings were ignored by the driver's (3) that worked for my father. And after being ignored for so long the truck was somewhat smarter than they were and had gone into self preservation mode. In your thread I have read about manual regen or dpr by removing and replacing the in and out sensors on the dpr. I had to jump the starter over to start it before taking it in for service at 317k the engine is still smooth. Wondering which way to go with it. Thank you for your time. My name is Brian and my # is (614)290-5585

Here's the fuse and relay panel inside the cab. First row, top, fuse STA SW provides power to the ignition switch. From there, the STARTER fuse sends power toward the ATM STARTER RELAY, which it will pass through if it's in neutral (I'm assuming you have an Allison transmission). This signal then goes to the STARTER RELAY, which allows power from FL STARTER fusible link (inside the external fuse panel) to flow directly to the starter.

 

[JGMMDURAMAX]

To confirm, it wants to manually regen every 350km because the DPR graph hit five bars, correct?

I'm going to split this into three parts: What might be wrong with it, items that you can check and replace without needing Hino DX software, and what I would check if it was sitting in front of me.

What's wrong: Incomplete regen, failure to auto regen, low power, CEL.
U1123 CAN communication lost between ecu and VNT controller
P0102 Air flow sensor circuit low input
P0113 Intake air temperature circuit high input
P0088 High rail pressure

P0088 basically only shows up when the SCV (suction control valve, aka fuel pressure regulator) starts getting stuck. I would just stick a new one on. It's a pain in the ass to reach. I have a 5mm, 6 inch long ball-end allen driver that I use to get it out.

You will want to get the p/n and s/n off of the fuel pump so they will give you the right one. Or take it off and carry it into the dealer parts department. Yours may be an early scv, which means the kit will come with a small adapter plate. If you get the wrong one, the truck will be completely undriveable.

U1123 means that the ecu has lost communication with the VNT. This is less common than P0045, which means the ecu has communication with the VNT, but the VNT doesn't react properly. I have replaced turbos because of relentless U1123 and that has fixed the problem, but I've also addressed some more fundamental electrical issues (which we'll get into in a minute) and that has solved U1123 for just the cost of time.

P0102 and P0113 are related in that the maf and iat sensors are both contained within the same sensor. The deal here is that these are pretty tough and I'd suspect a possible harness problem if a temporary test with a new sensor didn't fix it immediately.

Failure to regen:
Let's just pretend that P2002 DPR malfunction is on that list. Because it is, in spirit.

A manual regen every 350km is absurd. An automatic regen is taking place every 150km. Whenever the DPR gauge hits three bars and the vehicle is moving, it's going to attempt an auto regen. your truck should complete an auto regen in less than 10 minutes of driving, maybe as low as 5. If you were constantly on the move, you might have thousands of auto regens and no manual regens.

Question: How long are your idle times?
Question: Do you leave the exhaust brake on all of the time? It should be treated like a one-time event, rather than being left on constantly.

For an auto regen to be successful, the intake throttle valve needs to open most of the way, the VNT needs to limit boost, the mass airflow sensor needs to accurately calculate how much air is going into the engine, the EGR valve needs to shut most of the way, and the injectors need to be in half decent shape. Post injection will heat up the Diesel Oxidation Catalyst (DOC), which will heat the DPF up enough to support combustion. When that temp is reached, more air is introduced with less post injection, and the soot burns out of the DPF.

A manual regen is similar, but the ITV shuts some to limit airflow and the exhaust brake shuts. The amount that the exhaust brake closes is critical, and as the injectors age, the brake needs to be adjusted to compensate.

Part 2 coming up.

 

[JGMMDURAMAX]

The regen is happening at 3 bars, seldom use the exhaust brake

 

[JGMMDURAMAX]

Idle times are short occasionally 10 minutes at the most when using the power liftgate alot

 

[JGMMDURAMAX]

I communicate best with type, generally speaking.

Part two: What you can do right now. Do all of the simple stuff so you don't have to pay anyone else to do it.

Take the batteries completely out of the truck, clean them off and clean the terminals. Clean the cable clamps. Bare, pure metal, no anything else. If you have ****ty half melted connectors, try to hit a mailbox with them on the way to the parts store. Load test the **** out of the batteries. If one is marginal, replace them both.

Half dead, partially shorted out batteries cause so many problems, yet no one ever thinks of checking them. Sorry, just having a moment of righteous indignation.

Clean every ground wire you can find. The frame of the trucks did not have the paint removed where the ground wire attaches, so it only makes connection through the threads. When water gets in there and rust forms, the connection degrades. There's one wire that's very important, the ground strap between the left rear of the cab and the frame. The ecu grounds to this one. Also check the negative battery cable to frame, and the pigtail on that stud. Look for corrosion wicking into the wire.

Check every harness connector on the right side of the engine, especially everything near the turbo. There's a connector between two sections of harness on that side that can be hard to press together. Unplugging it and plugging it all the way back in fixed a U1123 one time just as a turbo was about to get replaced. The connector just needed a little extra push to go all the way back together.

Make sure the MAF sensor is plugged in. That one is easy to overlook. It will cause low power and failure to regen.

Replace the SCV. There is a relearn procedure for it, but it'll learn itself after it's warmed up and driven for a few minutes.

There is a junction box behind the air filter. Remove the air filter and the front fender so you can stick your head all the way in there and see well. Are all the screws still in that cover? Is there evidence of moisture being inside? Disconnect the batteries then disconnect all of these plugs. Look carefully for evidence of corrosion on the pins, and at the wire crimps (looking in from the rear, where the wires enter). If there is evidence of corrosion, the terminals need to be replaced. The newest trucks have a snap on cover with a foam strip inside that appears to shrink over time. We're seeing water ingress in these, causing havoc. The old bolt on covers were superior as long as all the bolts were put back in.

Stick your finger inside the tailpipe (lol). Does it come out black? If so, the DPF is toast. Look deep inside with a flashlight. There's a tube with a pile of holes around the perimeter. Does it look like rocks or something are stuck in some of the holes? If there is, the back of the DPF has burst. You're gonna need a new one.

Batteries are at 12.51 volts, the braided copper ground from the engine to the frame left side is showing signs of corrosion . the junction box is dry

 

[greasytshirt]

Batteries are at 12.51 volts, the braided copper ground from the engine to the frame left side is showing signs of corrosion . the junction box is dry

I'd remove the ground wires completely. Grind all the paint off of the frame, put some grease on the bare spot then bolt back on tight. Hit the one on the left rear of cab to the frame, at the frame ground point.

 

[JGMMDURAMAX]

I'd remove the ground wires completely. Grind all the paint off of the frame, put some grease on the bare spot then bolt back on tight. Hit the one on the left rear of cab to the frame, at the frame ground point.

Cleaned up the grounds at 3 locations from engine to frame, cab to frame and battery to frame. unconnected the batteries and checked the volts of each one and each reading 13.01 volts

 

[greasytshirt]

Cleaned up the grounds at 3 locations from engine to frame, cab to frame and battery to frame. unconnected the batteries and checked the volts of each one and each reading 13.01 volts

Is the U1123 or P0045 codes still reappearing?

Did you find a problem with the wires at the DPR temp sensors?

Is there a lot of soot in the tailpipe? If so, remove it, take pics of the inlet and outlet, and post them.

 

[greasytshirt]

Cleaned up the grounds at 3 locations from engine to frame, cab to frame and battery to frame. unconnected the batteries and checked the volts of each one and each reading 13.01 volts

Quick question, have you ordered an scv yet?

Because I am apparently blind, I kinda screwed the pooch a little.



I totally overlooked that plate.

You still need that plate, but you can reuse your old one.
If you've ordered a kit and it comes with that plate, then great. If it didn't, that's fine. But there's a cylindrical piece on the tip of the old scv you need to pull off and stick on the new one. If it stays inside the pump, that's fine.

What's going in is you've got an early pump. The scv on the early pump was not very good. The newer pumps used an scv with a smaller tip. So what we're looking at above is the new-style scv with the factory adapter kit.
What's interesting is that this scv has been replaced somewhat recently. P0087 and P0088 showing up at the same time is almost always because of an SCV problem, from what I've seen. What I can't do is test it, because I'm not there. So replacing it based on past codes in the dash is frankly a $250 USD crapshoot.

 

[JGMMDURAMAX]

Quick question, have you ordered an scv yet?

Because I am apparently blind, I kinda screwed the pooch a little.

View attachment 11919

I totally overlooked that plate.

You still need that plate, but you can reuse your old one.
If you've ordered a kit and it comes with that plate, then great. If it didn't, that's fine. But there's a cylindrical piece on the tip of the old scv you need to pull off and stick on the new one. If it stays inside the pump, that's fine.

What's going in is you've got an early pump. The scv on the early pump was not very good. The newer pumps used an scv with a smaller tip. So what we're looking at above is the new-style scv with the factory adapter kit.
What's interesting is that this scv has been replaced somewhat recently. P0087 and P0088 showing up at the same time is almost always because of an SCV problem, from what I've seen. What I can't do is test it, because I'm not there. So replacing it based on past codes in the dash is frankly a $250 USD crapshoot.

Monday evening I replaced the old SCV with a new SCV kit didn't see a cylindrical piece guess it was still inside the pump had taken me about 25 minutes and had noticed the ITV has oil coating the inside again.
No luck with replacing the SCV still having the hesitation from a dead stop for about 15 feet,
sept 8 P0087

 

[greasytshirt]

Monday evening I replaced the old SCV with a new SCV kit didn't see a cylindrical piece guess it was still inside the pump had taken me about 25 minutes and had noticed the ITV has oil coating the inside again.
No luck with replacing the SCV still having the hesitation from a dead stop for about 15 feet,
sept 8 P0087

Sept 8, P0087. There's a good possibility there's a fuel restriction. Check the banjo fittings in the fuel filter head for debris. There's a check valve in some of them, check that too. Junk gets caught in the 90 degree elbow in the fuel tank. Or plumb a boat fuel tank or similar directly to the fuel pump to rule out the entire fuel supply system. If it runs normal off of the aux tank, you know it's debris in the lines, fittings, or filter. There's a screen in the pump fuel intake too. Might as well check that.

P0087 is rarely caused by anything other than fuel restriction/air ingress, but possibilities include injection pump failure and leakage past the rail limiter.

Another thing that can cause momentary low power from a standstill is the brake switch. There are two, one for the brake lights, the other is an ecu input. It keeps people from powerbraking; the ecu limits injection quantity when it sees input from this switch. I've described how to adjust it multiple times in this thread.

 

[Ed Delgado]

I have a Hino 54' truck that is giving me trouble
every morning when we start it up and get driving the check engine light turns on and it won't go faster than 25mph
if we turn off the truck and turn it back on again the problem goes away for a while
today though every time we tried going above 50mph the light would go on if we stayed at 50 or below there was no issue.
can you give me any advice as to what can be done to fix this or even what the problem could be?

 

[greasytshirt]

I have a Hino 54' truck that is giving me trouble
every morning when we start it up and get driving the check engine light turns on and it won't go faster than 25mph
if we turn off the truck and turn it back on again the problem goes away for a while
today though every time we tried going above 50mph the light would go on if we stayed at 50 or below there was no issue.
can you give me any advice as to what can be done to fix this or even what the problem could be?

That could be almost anything. What year is the truck? Check engine light, or some other light?

 

[nativewolf]

Greasytshirt: Enjoying reading your post. I bought an old Hino last week, just had it delivered. Should be a fun adventure, a 1990 FE. Brakes are going to need some looking into but I was amazed at how nice the engine sounded. Not many 1990 Hinos in the US, I saw the everywhere in Australia and Thailand and Taiwan in the 90s.

Might post some queries as I start to get it fixed up. Boy, you sure are right about the cheap dash. Not sure what I'll do about it but it is the least of my concerns right now. It is pretty much going to be a farm truck so it has a lifetime of hauling bricks/hay/fruits/tractors and what not ahead.

 

[greasytshirt]

Brakes are going to need some looking into

Welcome to Hell!

All the way up to 2004, the Hino cabovers were stout, smooth running beasts, with the most unnecessarily complex and infuriating brake systems in the world. I'd tell you to quickly bleed out all of the nasty brake fluid that's bound to be in it, but then again I don't want you to get air in the system and make the problem more complex. You're gonna want to invest in a couple of heavy jack stands and a stout jack, because you have two wheel cylinders per wheel end, with a manual adjustment on each one. Unless the FE has air brakes (I don't remember stuff like this). The air brake trucks are at least somewhat normal in design.

Boy, you sure are right about the cheap dash. Not sure what I'll do about it but it...

Wood screws are the most commonly used method.

 

[nativewolf]

Welcome to Hell!

All the way up to 2004, the Hino cabovers were stout, smooth running beasts, with the most unnecessarily complex and infuriating brake systems in the world. I'd tell you to quickly bleed out all of the nasty brake fluid that's bound to be in it, but then again I don't want you to get air in the system and make the problem more complex. You're gonna want to invest in a couple of heavy jack stands and a stout jack, because you have two wheel cylinders per wheel end, with a manual adjustment on each one. Unless the FE has air brakes (I don't remember stuff like this). The air brake trucks are at least somewhat normal in design.

Air brakes.



Wood screws are the most commonly used method.

Thought about that. Might do that and then do some sort of cover over them if I can find a cheap leather or something.

 

[greasytshirt]

Spilled coffee and soda are also great adhesives. They are commonly used in conjunction with fasteners designed for carpentry. The two combined will hold any dash together.

 

[nativewolf]

If coffee works than this truck will never ever fall apart. On a more serious note, it seems like quite the solid vehicle. I'll slide under it tomorrow and look at the under side, lines, hoses, beams, etc.

I'm going to have to put a check list together after I do some inspecting. Oil changes, filters, brakes, hoses, belts, cleaning the radiators fins (see I read your postings), etc are all things I'd plan on. I'v Do you think it is worthwhile seeing about recalls on something this old? It only has 100k miles, I'd like it to outlive me so I hope to get it back to being a good sound truck.

I have to try to track down the prior owner and get logs.

Again, thanks much. I was reading a few days before posting, thanks to everyone else as well.

 

[greasytshirt]

If coffee works than this truck will never ever fall apart. On a more serious note, it seems like quite the solid vehicle. I'll slide under it tomorrow and look at the under side, lines, hoses, beams, etc.

I'm going to have to put a check list together after I do some inspecting. Oil changes, filters, brakes, hoses, belts, cleaning the radiators fins (see I read your postings), etc are all things I'd plan on. I'v Do you think it is worthwhile seeing about recalls on something this old? It only has 100k miles, I'd like it to outlive me so I hope to get it back to being a good sound truck.

I have to try to track down the prior owner and get logs.

Again, thanks much. I was reading a few days before posting, thanks to everyone else as well.

I can't recall ever doing a recall on something built prior to 2004, but I guess it can't hurt to ask.

I'd be suspicious of the condition of steel lines for the power steering, brake vacuum. Have a look at kingpins, may not have been greased in years. Same for the leaf spring pins, I bet half of them won't accept grease.

Auto or manual? If manual, no, there's not much you can do to make the shifter less vague. Be sure to grease the throwout bearing, this always gets skipped. The clutch is adjusted at the slave cylinder.

Once you get the brakes squared away, the will be trouble free for a long time. The first time though, you're gonna be cussing. Good luck getting the drums off. Be aware that you need to get under there, find the adjuster slots, push the adjuster arm off of the star wheel so you can back the brake shoes off. Two per wheel. This is exactly as fun as it sounds.

The brake shoes are expensive. The Hino linings are good. You can reuse your shoes and get new linings riveted on. My shop does that, actually. The first time you take the shoes off, you will almost certainly accidently shoot the piston out of a wheel cylinder. They're probably all leaking anyway,so get a ball hone and reseal them all. No need to take the cylinder off of the truck, just leave it all in place. You can get wheel cylinder rebuild kits.

The brakes are air-over-hydraulic. The weird air cylinders and three master cylinders on the side of the truck are all part of this strange setup. Getting the nasty fluid out is important, but if you introduce air, you will have to bleed the master cylinders first. But before that, all the brake adjusters on the vehicle need to be adjusted for minimum wheel cylinder stroke, or you'll never get all the air out.