Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.

[greasytshirt]

thank you for the quick reply. the truck did not even attempt to crank. when i turned the key, it made a sound like a dead battery... a very loud "CLICK" and then nothing. there was no cranking attempt. However, a minute later after i turned the key, it fired right up on the first turn of the key and ran great all the way home.

I am dying to figure out how to turn that engine brake off, i dont want it on LOL. please also forgive the stupid question, but what is the "malfunction switch"? is the engine brake control located in the same area as the wind shield wipers? If so thats probably how i turned it on as i was hitting every switch in the cab to see what they all did.

and yep, thank you very much for the tip on the engine brake. i went outside and sure enough just had to move the wiper lever up. THANK YOU!

Multi-function. The stalk. You found it already. No one ever calls them multi-function switches.

You probably just have some ultra-crappy battery connections. Common issue. Instead of dicking around, yank both batteries out, load test the out of them, clean everything. If one is sketchy, replace it (or both). If yours still has the big brass terminals on it, don't overtighten the nut on the brass stud. The stud will stretch, rendering it useless. It will last forever if it's not overtightened. Figure on cleaning the terminals and checking tightness every time you change the oil. If you don't keep the batteries clean, they will only last about two years.

 

[proda]

Multi-function. The stalk. You found it already. No one ever calls them multi-function switches.

You probably just have some ultra-crappy battery connections. Common issue. Instead of dicking around, yank both batteries out, load test the **** out of them, clean everything. If one is sketchy, replace it (or both). If yours still has the big brass terminals on it, don't overtighten the nut on the brass stud. The stud will stretch, rendering it useless. It will last forever if it's not overtightened. Figure on cleaning the terminals and checking tightness every time you change the oil. If you don't keep the batteries clean, they will only last about two years.

Thank you for the advice. I will do this first thing tomorrow morning!

 

[greasytshirt]

Thank you for the advice. I will do this first thing tomorrow morning!

I can ramble on at length about these things. If you managed to stumble across a book with the wiring diagrams in it, that would be a worthwhile purchase. The engine, cab, and wiring are Japanese, but everything else is American in origin (and most mechanics are familiar with the layout). It's the wiring and engines that give some mechanics fits. You can't fix this one by hitting it with a hammer.

 

[Don_vincentio]

The drain tube is underneath the air cleaner, under the hood. It has one of those duck bill valves on it. Probably full of junk.

I'm guessing it's this tube?


Also one last small problem I'm having is the left turn signal in the front won't work, it has power and the light is good, just won't turn on when I put the signal to turn left.

 

[greasytshirt]

I'm guessing it's this tube?
View attachment 11254

Also one last small problem I'm having is the left turn signal in the front won't work, it has power and the light is good, just won't turn on when I put the signal to turn left.

That's probably part of the tube in question. The end of it has a few bends in it, maybe part of it is missing. Has that been pulled out of the airbox from the outside? If so, you might have a hard time getting it to stop leaking without properly reconnecting it back to...whatever it was connected to. I'd be worried about having to remove the airbox. You're alone on that one. I've never had one apart that far.

The light has power at the socket? If power is at the socket, then the ground path is faulty. The plug between the chassis and hood is a prime suspect.

 

[Don_vincentio]

That's probably part of the tube in question. The end of it has a few bends in it, maybe part of it is missing. Has that been pulled out of the airbox from the outside? If so, you might have a hard time getting it to stop leaking without properly reconnecting it back to...whatever it was connected to. I'd be worried about having to remove the airbox. You're alone on that one. I've never had one apart that far.

The light has power at the socket? If power is at the socket, then the ground path is faulty. The plug between the chassis and hood is a prime suspect.

To be honest I found it when I was diagnosing the brake aux motor, it was sitting on a panel under it. If that's where the air box is located I'll have to look into it and see if it's from it.

Has power at the socket, plug between hood and chassis has some build up, but nothing that's where the metal pins sit from what I saw, I unplugged it and plugged it back in and still doesn't work.

 

[greasytshirt]

To be honest I found it when I was diagnosing the brake aux motor, it was sitting on a panel under it. If that's where the air box is located I'll have to look into it and see if it's from it.

Has power at the socket, plug between hood and chassis has some build up, but nothing that's where the metal pins sit from what I saw, I unplugged it and plugged it back in and still doesn't work.

I'm going to bed. Have fun.

 

[Don_vincentio]

I'm going to bed. Have fun.

View attachment 11256 View attachment 11257

I appreciate the diagram, but I figured out its something with the wiring from the chassis to hood, I unplugged and replied it in again, rechecked to see if there's power and all good, had the blinkers on while I was doing this, and as I'm plugging it back in it turns on, then immediately stops, wiggled the cable and it started working, seems like there's either a loose wire, or a wire that's been pinched or is almost cut off.

 

[greasytshirt]

I appreciate the diagram, but I figured out its something with the wiring from the chassis to hood, I unplugged and replied it in again, rechecked to see if there's power and all good, had the blinkers on while I was doing this, and as I'm plugging it back in it turns on, then immediately stops, wiggled the cable and it started working, seems like there's either a loose wire, or a wire that's been pinched or is almost cut off.

The harness takes a beating right there. People break the securing clips, then it moves and flexes enough to damage the wires inside. Even worse is when the connector lock tab is broken and water gets inside.

 

[proda]

Well I cleaned the batteries today and same issue. However, I have made a bit of progress. If I put the key, in and crank it, it fires right up on the first turn of they key.

If I turn on to the auxiliary position, it won't crank, at all. I guess I just need to fire it up, the first time and not leave it on the accessory position.

 

[greasytshirt]

Well I cleaned the batteries today and same issue. However, I have made a bit of progress. If I put the key, in and crank it, it fires right up on the first turn of they key.

If I turn on to the auxiliary position, it won't crank, at all. I guess I just need to fire it up, the first time and not leave it on the accessory position.

That kinda sounds like an ignition switch problem, but I haven't run into this issue before.

 

[proda]

well, i tried to start the truck today to show my dad and nothing. accessories came on but it wouldn't crank. took the batteries to the local auto zone. they tested both and said both were low. one was at 35% and one was at 50%.

i put a small personal auto sized jump box on them and the truck started right up. the auto zone guy said i could charge both batteries at no cost, so they are charging there now. I am going to retry them, and see if that works. I will buy new batteries if that doesn't work. I just need the truck to start reliably, and will spend whatever that takes.

 

[proda]

the batteries ended up testing bad. neither would recharge. bought 2 new batteries.

one thing i noticed is that if i dont push the key in hard, the truck wont start. if i push the key in hard, the truck starts. sounds like the ignition could potentially be bad? I plan on taking it in to have everything looked at tomorrow.

my small backup van is now making a noise too. not a good day here for used vehicles.

 

[greasytshirt]

the batteries ended up testing bad. neither would recharge. bought 2 new batteries.

one thing i noticed is that if i dont push the key in hard, the truck wont start. if i push the key in hard, the truck starts. sounds like the ignition could potentially be bad? I plan on taking it in to have everything looked at tomorrow.

my small backup van is now making a noise too. not a good day here for used vehicles.

It does sound like the ignition switch is bad. I don't know if that will include the tumbler, but I doubt it.

The batteries on these trucks need to be in good condition, as you've witnessed. Since they're gonna be replaced, now is a great time to remove all of the ground cables and grind all the paint and crap off where they attach to the frame. Pay special attention to the one between the cab and frame, left rear corner of cab. This one grounds everything in the cab, and a bad connection here can cause havoc. I've actually removed this one and seen sparks. Seen it on several trucks. This ground is important!

 

[Don_vincentio]

The harness takes a beating right there. People break the securing clips, then it moves and flexes enough to damage the wires inside. Even worse is when the connector lock tab is broken and water gets inside.

That's what looks like happened here, water has gotten inside on the connector from the hood to the chassis but nothing on the connection from the chassis, would you recommend just replacing both of those or just the one from the hood, and taking the one from the chassis off and making sure nothing's pinched?

 

[greasytshirt]

That's what looks like happened here, water has gotten inside on the connector from the hood to the chassis but nothing on the connection from the chassis, would you recommend just replacing both of those or just the one from the hood, and taking the one from the chassis off and making sure nothing's pinched?

Arguably the best way to do it is to salvage the harness by repinning the end with a new connector body. If you have a dealer with a good parts guy, you can order the terminal connector and pins and redo the whole end, but you will need special crimpers to do so. And patience. And reading glasses and light.

The half-ass way to do it is to lop off both connectors and use waterproof butt connectors to permanently splice the two together.

The super half-ass way to do it is to twist them together by hand and use electrical tape. This is the most common method used in the field. /s

Or you can isolate the few faulty connections, cut those wires and route them out of the connector body, connecting them externally with waterproof bullet or spade connectors. This is the quickest, least half-ass method to fixing this in a way that makes the connectors removable.

 

[Don_vincentio]

Abs came back on
4-4 on the flashes, then when I try to reset it it flashes 1-2

 

[Don_vincentio]

Abs also now blinks 4-3 after I disconnected the rear pass sensor and reconnected it

 

[proda]

It does sound like the ignition switch is bad. I don't know if that will include the tumbler, but I doubt it.

The batteries on these trucks need to be in good condition, as you've witnessed. Since they're gonna be replaced, now is a great time to remove all of the ground cables and grind all the paint and crap off where they attach to the frame. Pay special attention to the one between the cab and frame, left rear corner of cab. This one grounds everything in the cab, and a bad connection here can cause havoc. I've actually removed this one and seen sparks. Seen it on several trucks. This ground is important!

apparently i replaced the lift gate batteries and not the truck batteries. i dropped the truck off at the dealer because i will feel better about it having looked over. dealer stated the radiator fan is broken, its getting fluid changes as well and probably 3 new batteries. dealer said they could not duplicate the problem after i dropped the truck off.... probably because i had driven it for about an hour prior to dropping it off and the batteries had some juice in them. my guess is the batteries are junked... which if its the case, i will move them to the liftgate spot and put the 2 new ones plus an additional 3rd battery in the truck's place. it probably needs a belt as well because i hear squealing when it is cold started.

 

[greasytshirt]

apparently i replaced the lift gate batteries and not the truck batteries. i dropped the truck off at the dealer because i will feel better about it having looked over. dealer stated the radiator fan is broken, its getting fluid changes as well and probably 3 new batteries. dealer said they could not duplicate the problem after i dropped the truck off.... probably because i had driven it for about an hour prior to dropping it off and the batteries had some juice in them. my guess is the batteries are junked... which if its the case, i will move them to the liftgate spot and put the 2 new ones plus an additional 3rd battery in the truck's place. it probably needs a belt as well because i hear squealing when it is cold started.

How far away is the liftgate spot? Short cables = less resistance in the circuit.
Most of these things just have two batteries, with an extra shoved into the box when a liftgate is added. If you want to retain your liftgate batteries in their current location, you may want to consider having two starting batteries and a battery isolater in the circuit feeding the liftgate batteries. This will keep the liftgate batteries charged, but an electrical problem back there won't kill the starting batteries too.