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Seasoned Expediter
i just purchased a 2014 Hino 258alp, about time for the initial oil change. what should i use, rotella t5 or t6, or do you have a recommendation? and oil filter WIX 57190? Thanks...
Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.
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I don't have a filter cross reference, so i can't help you there. Hino factory fill is a Castrol semi-synthetic, it supposedly holds up better when the oil gets soot-loaded or fuel diluted. Is Rotella T5 insufficient? I doubt it. Is T6 necessary? I doubt that too.
I think the change interval is more important. I'd consider doing oil analysis. They tend to be really clean inside even with longer change intervals, but we start seeing wear on the rocker arm rollers on 20k mile sooted oil. They have extremely little wear inside when the oil is changed every 10 or less.
In other words, you're not gonna get a definitive oil-related answer out of me. They say to change it every 20k, but I have seen evidence of that being excessive. It holds 16 quarts, less than some other engines of similar displacement.
Some history here: Up to 2005, the old trucks didn't have much as far as pollution controls. 2005-2007 they got EGR, which puts some soot into the oil. 2008-2010 they got DPFs. These trucks used post injection (a common solution for many manufacturers) to heat the exhaust for regen. This puts some fuel into the oil. I'm guessing this is when the switch to the semi synthetic oil took place (just a guess). 2011-2014 trucks use a burner system without post injection, so the oil should not suffer from fuel dilution. In 2013 Cabovers, they introduced a system with an exhaust mounted injector AND post injection. This system is very reliable, and it suffers less fuel dilution than the 08-10 models. All trucks will have this system in 2015. In your case, any modern diesel oil will probably suffice, but only regular oil sampling will prove it. The occasional internal investigation never hurt either, and with a valve lash adjustment suggested every 50k, there's an opportunity to do that.
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A+ Statewide
Seasoned Expediter
THANKS... T5 IT IS. EVERY 10 THOUSAND MILES.
I have a history of doing lengthy edits, so you should read my post again for some clarifications.
Don_vincentio
Seasoned Expediter
I'm starting to see more and more problems with my 258, after the brake job, everything went back to normal, rained heavily yesterday for a little with more rain here and there throughout the afternoon, with the rain, the abs light came on then went away, then the fuel gauge showed low fluid, went and put diesel, and still same problem, then in the evening, started saying low coolant, didn't have any of these problems till after it rained, any quick fixes? Or do you think I need a new fuel sensor/coolant sensor?
I can't condemn these things without testing them first. What year is your truck again? near the data link connector, there may be a button marked ABS. press it and retrieve the flash codes.
Don_vincentio
Seasoned Expediter
2011, pressed the abs diag button, flash code is 1 1 which is no problems from what I know. What's the best way to test the radiator/ fuel tank sensor before knowing they need to be replaced for sure?
If the abs light turns on again, hit the button before it turns off. If there is still no code, then the ABS computer is probably losing power or ground connection.
For the fuel level sensor, pull it out of the tank and put a multimeter across the legs. You're checking for a smooth change in resistance throughout the whole sweep with no dead spots.
The easiest way to check the water level sensor is to turn the ignition on then drain about a gallon of coolant from the radiator to uncover the sensor. You will be greeted with a warning light, and if your parking brake is off you'll hear the most annoying sound in the world. Filling the radiator back up will shut it off. If it's alarming with the coolant topped off, it's probably the sensor. If the coolant level is dropping, then there's a different problem entirely.
I still have a feeling that you've got a more fundamental electrical issue going on, but it's hard to make that determination without being there in person.
For the fuel level sensor, pull it out of the tank and put a multimeter across the legs. You're checking for a smooth change in resistance throughout the whole sweep with no dead spots.
The easiest way to check the water level sensor is to turn the ignition on then drain about a gallon of coolant from the radiator to uncover the sensor. You will be greeted with a warning light, and if your parking brake is off you'll hear the most annoying sound in the world. Filling the radiator back up will shut it off. If it's alarming with the coolant topped off, it's probably the sensor. If the coolant level is dropping, then there's a different problem entirely.
I still have a feeling that you've got a more fundamental electrical issue going on, but it's hard to make that determination without being there in person.
Don_vincentio
Seasoned Expediter
Last time abs light came on, it was throwing a code, I'd i remember correctly it was 4 4 on the flashes.
ill look into getting a multimeter as soon as possible and doing a test on the fuel sensor, it seems like it is going bad, since the tank is full but still reads empty, at the same time I have a feeling it's just from the rain.
Water level sensor might be going out since it alarms with the tank full and reservoir full, unplugged it and plugged it back in, so far no issues again, hopefully it stays like that
Just as you have that feeling, I have it too, specially when all these issues start happening when it's raining here, if you're near chicago you are more then welcome to check it.
Code 4 4 is left rear axle sensor open or shorted, look for the wire rubbing out on the frame somewhere.
Don_vincentio
Seasoned Expediter
When that happened I tapped the sensor in, and haven't had that issue again. All that's happening now is the water sensor, and the fuel sensor, im wondering if water gets in places it shouldn't with heavy rain fall on the truck.
Generally not. Unless there's a section of harness that's not plugged in all the way.
Don_vincentio
Seasoned Expediter
Haven't seen anything that looks unplugged as of yet, would you know if there's a fuse or relay for the fuel tank? Or fuel reader?
I haven't looked it up, but I doubt it.
Don_vincentio
Seasoned Expediter
One thing after another, brake light came on and just Keeps beeping, and brakes are about 2 weeks old at the most.
Check the brake fluid and power steering fluid levels. That's a warning for low hydroboost flow and/or improper master cylinder stroke.
Did you test the fuel level sensor?
Don_vincentio
Seasoned Expediter
All fluids are full, still haven't had a chance to test the fuel sensor I'm thinking it's going bad since it attempted to read the fuel level and read one bar of fuel then started saying low fuel again.
Don_vincentio
Seasoned Expediter
This little switch by the brake pedal, should it be in the position in the first pic or second pic?
Second.
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