Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.

greasytshirt · May 30, 2015

coalminer said:
Hmmm next little weird problem, the wiper washer pump won't work, sent power directly to the pump and it works. When I put my meter on it, shows power all the time but when I push the switch, the power goes away, is there a relay for the washer motor?

I gotta look at a wiring diagram. Im putting a turbo on a Saab 9-5, so it's gonna be a little while.

Don_vincentio · May 30, 2015

So I found out the abs light is the sensor, and the E where P or any gear is, is because I have a pto ( according to the dealer) did a brake job, abs needs a sensor, going to replace all 4 this next week, but after the brakes, the brake light come in very dim, and disappears when I brake, and the headlights won't come on unless the high beams are on, and all the fuses are good, then just got a low fuel message when I know the tank is half full, getting very odd errors and issues. Any insight on the brake light, and headlight? I'm sure the fuel low message is because the sensor may be going out.

greasytshirt · May 31, 2015

coalminer said:
Hmmm next little weird problem, the wiper washer pump won't work, sent power directly to the pump and it works. When I put my meter on it, shows power all the time but when I push the switch, the power goes away, is there a relay for the washer motor?

There are two wiper fuses, one 10 and the other 15 amp. The 10 amp fuse powers the washer pump motor circuit. There is no relay. There is a harness under the floor covering. If power is passing through the washer switch, then you might have to yank both seats out to trace the floor harness and look for breaks.

greasytshirt · May 31, 2015

Don_vincentio said:
So I found out the abs light is the sensor, and the E where P or any gear is, is because I have a pto ( according to the dealer)

If the pto is wired to the ecu, then a completely different message pops up. It literally says 'pto active' or something.

going to replace all 4 this next week,

They don't go bad very often. It's almost always rusted tone rings or loose wheel bearings. I'd reconsider changing them all.

but after the brakes, the brake light come in very dim, and disappears when I brake, and the headlights won't come on unless the high beams are on, and all the fuses are good, then just got a low fuel message when I know the tank is half full, getting very odd errors and issues. Any insight on the brake light, and headlight?

First, a question: Air or juice brakes?

I'm sure the fuel low message is because the sensor may be going out.

With all the other weirdness, I'm not so sure.

coalminer · May 31, 2015

greasytshirt said:
There are two wiper fuses, one 10 and the other 15 amp. The 10 amp fuse powers the washer pump motor circuit. There is no relay. There is a harness under the floor covering. If power is passing through the washer switch, then you might have to yank both seats out to trace the floor harness and look for breaks.

I was wondering why there was 2 fuses for the wipers. I will start tracing the wires down, thank you!!!!

Don_vincentio · Jun 1, 2015

greasytshirt said:
If the pto is wired to the ecu, then a completely different message pops up. It literally says 'pto active' or something.

They don't go bad very often. It's almost always rusted tone rings or loose wheel bearings. I'd reconsider changing them all.

First, a question: Air or juice brakes?

With all the other weirdness, I'm not so sure.

When I turn the pto on it says pto reset, then immediately pto set, as of right now i haven't experienced that problem with the E message so hopefully it never comes back, with the abs I ended up resetting the light with the diag button, and driven the truck for two days, long distances all day long and haven't had it come back on, I also tapped the sensor in just in case they where loose, so that may have done the trick. Juice brakes.
Any idea why the headlights won't come on unless I use the high beams? All the fuses are good inside the cab, one of the connections to the bulb was very bad which I replaced and still having the same issue, I'm thinking of changing the other one also, but I doubt the connectors have anything to do with it, specially when the high beams work perfect.

greasytshirt · Jun 1, 2015

Don_vincentio said:
When I turn the pto on it says pto reset, then immediately pto set, as of right now i haven't experienced that problem with the E message so hopefully it never comes back, with the abs I ended up resetting the light with the diag button, and driven the truck for two days, long distances all day long and haven't had it come back on, I also tapped the sensor in just in case they where loose, so that may have done the trick. Juice brakes.
Any idea why the headlights won't come on unless I use the high beams? All the fuses are good inside the cab, one of the connections to the bulb was very bad which I replaced and still having the same issue, I'm thinking of changing the other one also, but I doubt the connectors have anything to do with it, specially when the high beams work perfect.

Thr connectors at the bulb frequently fail.

Check harness connector at right hood hinge.

Im currently tied up, I'll be back

coalminer · Jun 1, 2015

greasytshirt said:
There are two wiper fuses, one 10 and the other 15 amp. The 10 amp fuse powers the washer pump motor circuit. There is no relay. There is a harness under the floor covering. If power is passing through the washer switch, then you might have to yank both seats out to trace the floor harness and look for breaks.

Found the wires and sure enough they were broken, but it looks like it wasn't the first time, thanks again!!!!

coalminer · Jun 1, 2015

Don_vincentio said:
When I turn the pto on it says pto reset, then immediately pto set, as of right now i haven't experienced that problem with the E message so hopefully it never comes back, with the abs I ended up resetting the light with the diag button, and driven the truck for two days, long distances all day long and haven't had it come back on, I also tapped the sensor in just in case they where loose, so that may have done the trick. Juice brakes.
Any idea why the headlights won't come on unless I use the high beams? All the fuses are good inside the cab, one of the connections to the bulb was very bad which I replaced and still having the same issue, I'm thinking of changing the other one also, but I doubt the connectors have anything to do with it, specially when the high beams work perfect.

The hood connector on my truck had that issue, wiggle the wires going into both sides of the connector, if there is a bad connection, won't take much for the wires to break off.

igor · Jun 2, 2015

Hi greasyshirt,

we have 2008 Hino 338 that has a power loss problem

when I push accel.pedal to the floor the check engine comes on very quickly

considerably less power then it was, at auto regen - 40mph

Went to the dealer. they gave us mind blowing estimate after scanning.

Just want to show you:

t ion Labor Par

1 REMOVE AND REPLACE HEAD GASKET

Parts: (1) GASKET - CYLINDER HEAD, (1) GASKET - INTAKE

MANIFOLD, (1) GASKET - NOZZLE LEKAGE PIPE #3, (1)

GASKET CAMSHAFT HOUSING, (1) GASKET CYL HEAD

COVER, (1) GASKET SUB ASSY EXH, (1) GASKET SUB ASSY

EXH, (1) O-RING - THERMOSTAT, (1) PIPE SUB ASSY

NOZZLE, (1) PIPE SUB-ASSY- INJECTION- NO.1, (1) PIPE

SUB-ASSY- INJECTION- NO.2, (1) PIPE SUB-ASSYINJECTION-

NO.3, (1) PIPE SUB-ASSY- INJECTION- NO.4, (1)

PIPE SUB-ASSY- INJECTION- NO.5, (1) PIPE SUB-ASSYINJECTION-

NO.6, (1) TURBO GASKET INSTALL KIT J08E,

(10) GASKET - TURBO WATER & FUEL, (2) GASKET -

NOZZLE LEKAGE PIPE #3, (2) GASKET - NOZZLE LEKAGE

PIPE #3, (2) SOFT WASHER/GASKET - FUEL PMP, (2)

WASHER SOFT, (4) BRAKE CLEANER, (4) GASKET SUB

ASSY EXH MFLD, (6) GASKET - INJ CUP TO HEAD, (6)

REMAN INJ W/ WASHER & O-RING, (7) BOLT FLANGE Labor: $3,036.00 Parts: $4,475.15 Total: $7,511.15

REMOVE AND REPLACE TURBO

Parts: (1) TURBO SUB-ASSY MDT MY08-10 Labor: $632.50 Parts: $2,265.45 Total: $2,897.95

REMOVE AND REPLACE DPF AND TEMPERATURE

SENSOR

Parts: (1) FILTER SUBASY- PARTICULATE MDT, (1) SENSOR

TEMPERATURE, (16) BOLT FLANGE, (16) NUT FLANGE, (2)

GASKET SUB ASSY EXH Labor: $632.50 Parts: $4,814.61 Total: $5,447.11

This estimate

Parts: $11,555.21

Labor: $4,301.00

TOTAL: $15,862.7

Does it look real at all?

After I've read how you sort out the problems step-by-step it looks way too much after a one scan

we have Hino DX and all it shows us is

U0101 - active

U1001 - inactive

U0101 - inactive

U0155 - inactive

which are all CAN malfunction

Please let me know what do you think on this estimate?

igor · Jun 2, 2015

Also, how can one purchase Hino DX II? should I be a dealer for that?

Thanks for your time. You should post some address where we can send you a beer or some vodka

greasytshirt · Jun 2, 2015

U0155 is a network fault to the vnt controller on the turbo. It may be the turbo, but usually a vnt failure is a U0073 and a P0045.
Check all the harness connectors for bent pins and stuff. There is a sub harness for the vnt and it may simply be partially unplugged. Ive seen that before.

U0101 sometimes appears just from attaching a scan tool.

Clean every single ground, especially the one from left rear of cab to frame. Load test all batteries, replace any that fail. Clean and tighten all battery connections. Check alternator output, check for more than half a volt of ac voltage.

Has the intake throttle valve been modified? If not, do it. It also cannot have any shaft play.

Check the turbo for excessive radial and axial endplay. Spin it. Does it seem to seize when a slight amount of pressure is put on the side of the shaft while spinning it? If so, replace it. This is important.

Has the dealer done an scv test? If not, they are a bunch of jacklegs. Ask them to graph and print the results of an scv test. And email you a copy. Then send it to me.

Is there soot in the tailpipe? Get a dx report. It will have maximum dpr outlet temp on it somewhere, I want to know that number. And I also want to know what the exhaust brake setting is.

Charlie_86 · Jun 3, 2015

hello i hve 2 hino 268 a 2014 and a 2015 for some reason on one of them when the truck is off the brake lights stay on as if someone is pressing the brakes.
On the other one, if u drive it and hit bumps the lights flicker, like if im brake checking some one what can be causing these issues on my trucks thanks. I can hear the relays making noise when the lights fliker

greasytshirt · Jun 3, 2015

Charlie_86 said:
hello i hve 2 hino 268 a 2014 and a 2015 for some reason on one of them when the truck is off the brake lights stay on as if someone is pressing the brakes.
On the other one, if u drive it and hit bumps the lights flicker, like if im brake checking some one what can be causing these issues on my trucks thanks. I can hear the relays making noise when the lights fliker

Hinos have an adjustable brake light switch. They area constant source of trouble. Not that the switch fails often, but problems like yours are common. Sometimes the brake lights stay on overnight and the batteries die. Stuff like that. In some trucks, the same switch is tied to the ecu. The ecu will severely limit acceleration if it thinks the brakes are applied. This leads to some exciting events like trying to jump out into traffic and now the truck will barely move. Fun stuff! A real seat clencher!

Without the switch in front of me, I'm not entirely sure which way to turn it. I'm thinking if you are looking at the switch from the rear, you'd turn it about a quarter turn couterclockwise. It will pop free. Push it in against the brake pedal until the plunger is completely pushed in, plus another notch or two. Turn it clockwise to lock it back in place. Problem solved.

Charlie_86 · Jun 3, 2015

Where is the switch exactly located if im underneith dash ? I apreciate the help n yes one of the trucks the light stays on the other flickrs while driving n how funny because the truck looses power like if i have to down shift it

Charlie_86 · Jun 3, 2015

Also what about the flickering when hitting bumps on the road?

greasytshirt · Jun 3, 2015

Charlie_86 said:
Where is the switch exactly located if im underneith dash ? I apreciate the help n yes one of the trucks the light stays on the other flickrs while driving n how funny because the truck looses power like if i have to down shift it

Look toward the top of the brake pedal lever. It's about midway up, on a bracket, coming from behind the pedal. You can get to it easily, and you don't even need to unplug it.

For others that are reading this, some juice brake trucks have this switch plus a Ford-style switch. It actually is a Ford switch, says it right on there. The Ford switch will turn on the brake lights while the adjustable one tells the ecu the brakes are applied.

On some air brake trucks, the adjustable switch turns on the brake lights while an air switch on the service brake valve under the truck tells the ecu the brakes are applied.

No, I don't know why they're like this.

Charlie_86 · Jun 3, 2015

So are these 2 different switches? Or just the 1 thats adjustable?

greasytshirt · Jun 3, 2015

Charlie_86 said:
Also what about the flickering when hitting bumps on the road?

The switch is just barely out of adjustment, and the pedal moves with the bumps, making the brake lights go apeshit. That's what the extra notch or two is for.

Charlie_86 · Jun 3, 2015

Ah ok i apreciate it bro, so counter clockwise correct? And what about the lights being on when brake isnt applied and truck is off will this adjustment fix that issue?