Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.

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greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
So are these 2 different switches? Or just the 1 thats adjustable?
Is it an air brake truck? This question is really hard to answer because it changed on different models during different years and it depended on air or hydraulic.

Start with the adjustable pedal switch. Just pull up on the brake pedal. If the lights go out, then adjust the switch.
 

Charlie_86

New Recruit
Because whts weird is that when truck is on the brake lights are off unless i apply the brakes. But when i turn off the truck thats when they stay steady on ugh loll
 

Charlie_86

New Recruit
Yeah its air brakes so im thinking if i turn counter clock wise n try it i just wana make sure that the brake lights turn on while applying brake n after the adjustment ya know
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Ah ok i apreciate it bro, so counter clockwise correct? And what about the lights being on when brake isnt applied and truck is off will this adjustment fix that issue?

If you're looking at the switch from the connector end point of view, turn it counterclockwise to unlock it. This should also fix the taillights being on.
 

Charlie_86

New Recruit
Alright perfect i apreciate it do u have a picture of how the switch might look? To kinda give me an idea.. The one that has the ford logo on jt whats that for? Thats not adjustable right
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Ok so then twist counter clockwise, do i keep twisting it or does it pop out set hight then turn clockwise to lock?
After around a quarter turn, it pops right out. Push it in until the plunger on the end of the switch is pushed all the way in, plus another tiny bit for good luck, then turn it about a quarter turn clockwise.
 

igor

Rookie Expediter
U0155 is a network fault to the vnt controller on the turbo. It may be the turbo, but usually a vnt failure is a U0073 and a P0045.
Check all the harness connectors for bent pins and stuff. There is a sub harness for the vnt and it may simply be partially unplugged. Ive seen that before.

U0101 sometimes appears just from attaching a scan tool.

Clean every single ground, especially the one from left rear of cab to frame. Load test all batteries, replace any that fail. Clean and tighten all battery connections. Check alternator output, check for more than half a volt of ac voltage.

Has the intake throttle valve been modified? If not, do it. It also cannot have any shaft play.

Check the turbo for excessive radial and axial endplay. Spin it. Does it seem to seize when a slight amount of pressure is put on the side of the shaft while spinning it? If so, replace it. This is important.

Has the dealer done an scv test? If not, they are a bunch of jacklegs. Ask them to graph and print the results of an scv test. And email you a copy. Then send it to me.

Is there soot in the tailpipe? Get a dx report. It will have maximum dpr outlet temp on it somewhere, I want to know that number. And I also want to know what the exhaust brake setting is.

Thank you for reply

We've checked intake throttle and it does have three holes in it, that was some oily residue in there we had to clean up
Also, had rubber pipe between turbo and mass flow air sensor loosed and damaged (from swinging around). Replaced that.

Then have found some free end ground wire, that we have put back. checked other grounds and connectors (cleaned some)
else looked just fine
After all that Check Engine light showed up just once, and after a restart never again
It seems to have most(all) of the power back now
But, its still 40mph during auto regen

The dealer first refused to give us any reports. but then finally said they will email that to us. never did yet, we'll call them tomorrow

I did activation test on 980rpm (warmed up to 180F) - holds rpm in a range of 975-983

injection quantity stays around 9.9 mm3/st (9.45 - 10.55)


with the exhaust brake applied (temp goes up to 187F)
it gives an avarage of 19.9 mm3/st

Ran it on 1500 rpm (holds in a range of 1497-1503)
injection stays pretty much at 15 mm3/st fluctuates 14.80-16.10


In the sysem protection data it has
max exhaust temp for monitor 1 - 1,215F
max exhaust temp for monitor 2 - 1,085F

DPR seems to work good (hits 3 bars - auto regens to 0)
though has a little bit of soot in a tail pipe

I will send you SCV test report once they will send that to us (hope they will)
Thanks again,
Igor
 

igor

Rookie Expediter
Also, forgot to mention the turbo has some oil in it, not too much thought. Looks like there's no excessive end play

Right now ordering that greese spray you suggested for turbos at amazon
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Thank you for reply

We've checked intake throttle and it does have three holes in it, that was some oily residue in there we had to clean up
Also, had rubber pipe between turbo and mass flow air sensor loosed and damaged (from swinging around). Replaced that.

Then have found some free end ground wire, that we have put back. checked other grounds and connectors (cleaned some)
else looked just fine
After all that Check Engine light showed up just once, and after a restart never again
It seems to have most(all) of the power back now
But, its still 40mph during auto regen

The dealer first refused to give us any reports. but then finally said they will email that to us. never did yet, we'll call them tomorrow

I did activation test on 980rpm (warmed up to 180F) - holds rpm in a range of 975-983

injection quantity stays around 9.9 mm3/st (9.45 - 10.55)


with the exhaust brake applied (temp goes up to 187F)
it gives an avarage of 19.9 mm3/st

Ran it on 1500 rpm (holds in a range of 1497-1503)
injection stays pretty much at 15 mm3/st fluctuates 14.80-16.10


In the sysem protection data it has
max exhaust temp for monitor 1 - 1,215F
max exhaust temp for monitor 2 - 1,085F

DPR seems to work good (hits 3 bars - auto regens to 0)
though has a little bit of soot in a tail pipe

I will send you SCV test report once they will send that to us (hope they will)
Thanks again,
Igor


This is exactly the kind of reply I like to see.

The problem of low power during regen remains.

Good:
The exhaust brake is more or less set correctly.
The injectors are good. Low rpm delta, good injection quantity.
The intake throttle valve has been modified.

Bad: The loose pipe between the MAF sensor and turbo. It's been sucking in dirt, hasn't it?
Soot in tailpipe.

Unusual: DPR inlet temp higher than outlet.

So, we're looking at an airflow problem. Usually this is caused by the ITV sticking shut, but the modifications pretty much cure that.

There are several things to do.
I would want to know the intake air pressure during an auto regen. I live near sea level and I generally see between 30-35 psi absolute (atmospheric pressure plus boost pressure).
If that is low (and I suspect it is), I'd remove the turbo intake piping and check the shaft for radial and axial endplay. I'd also check the compressor wheel for FOD.
Check the intake air pressure sensor sensor pipe and tube for blockage.
Clean the mass airflow sensor.
Remove the dpf and inspect the inlet and outlet for damage. You'll know it when you see it.
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Also, forgot to mention the turbo has some oil in it, not too much thought. Looks like there's no excessive end play

Right now ordering that greese spray you suggested for turbos at amazon

The Loctite nickel antiseize is great stuff.

When you spin the turbo, does it ever feel like it sticks? If you put slight pressure on the side of the shaft while trying to spin it, does it act locked up for a second? You'll know it when you feel it. If you feel it do this, then it needs to be replaced. Also look at the compressor wheel for damage caused by foreign particles. Replace the air filter if there's any question, and clean the mass airflow sensor.
 
S

sgpdsms

Guest
Dear Hino expert,

I'm looking for a program or software (Not a diagnostic software) that can change and modify on Hino Industrial
trucks ECU setting, anyone can advise where can i buy it from ?

Thanks.
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Dear Hino expert,

I'm looking for a program or software (Not a diagnostic software) that can change and modify on Hino Industrial
trucks ECU setting, anyone can advise where can i buy it from ?

Thanks.
That's beyond the scope of my experience, sorry.
 

coalminer

Veteran Expediter
Retired Expediter
Took the ac condenser off today to try to fix the leak( didn't work) I figured it would be a good time to take the intercooler off and clean out the junk, good thing I did, was a mess, amazing how I can hear the difference in the fan after cleaning it out. The temp was starting to rise more and more when going up hills.
 
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greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
I figured it would be a good time to take the intercooler off and clean out the junk, good thing I did, was a mess, amazing how I can hear the difference in the fan after cleaning it out. The temp was starting to rise more and more when going up hills.
In my opinion this should be done annually.
 
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