Don_vincentio
Seasoned Expediter
What are the chances that's the reason the brake light came on?Second.
How do I get it back to the second position?
What are the chances this is the only reason the brake light is on?
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What are the chances that's the reason the brake light came on?Second.
Skip back about three pages ago, I explained it in detail.What are the chances that's the reason the brake light came on?
How do I get it back to the second position?
What are the chances this is the only reason the brake light is on?
Skip back about three pages ago, I explained it in detail.
And this is unrelated to the brake warning light. There's a switch on the master cylinder and one on top of the hydrovac that can turn on this light. This system is very common on multiple brands of trucks, not exclusive to Hino.
First, figure out which of these two is closed. Backprobe both connectors with the engine running at idle. Probe one wire at a time with the other lead on your meter attached to ground. Only one leg on each switch should have power.I'll look it up.
I'm going to be 100% honest diesel trucks and fixing them myself is all new to me, so how would I get rid of this brake light, what tests would need to be done if any to figure out which switch is going bad?
For this, yes. For sensor testing on the engine, you need a multimeter. I use a Fluke 88V.
For this, yes. For sensor testing on the engine, you need a multimeter. I use a Fluke 88V.
Does the aux brake motor come on when the ignition is turned on?
Ok, this is why the warning light is on. Check that motor and the big relay next to it for proper function.Perfect I'll grab one.
I just noticed that it does not, I turned the truck off then back on, and don't hear the motor, usually when the truck is in the on position and not started and I press the brake, the pedal will go down, but it doesn't go down now, and I don't hear the motor working.
I have been working with another forum member via pm. This is exactly the same thing he was experiencing. The fuel pump was replaced, all of the flow dampeners disassembled and cleaned, and the rail itself was scrubbed out with a bore brush. This finally solved his problems.Hi Folks,
Ok I have a 2010 hino and have been getting bits of metal into the fuel rail. The pieces are about the same diameter as a staple , maybe a 1/8" long and are very hard and slightly curved. It seems to be a piece of a small spring if I was to take a guess. They are getting into the small hole in the small flat washer that sits under the pulse dampener assy and shuts down the fuel flow to the cylinder. It has effected 3 cylinder so far. First # 5 then # 2 and then # 6. We remove the damper and the pull out piece and then reassemble and the truck runs fine for a few days and then it happens again. This seems like the beginning of a fuel pump failure but the truck runs fine otherwise. Thanks in advance for your thoughts. About 300k on the truck fyi.
Figured that, where is the motor located exactly?Ok, this is why the warning light is on. Check that motor and the big relay next to it for proper function.
Figured that, where is the motor located exactly?
Also pulled the relay off, and I'm not getting a single reading from it I'm assuming my relay is bad
Neither do I specially with the cost of some of them, picked the truck up today no brake light, gone on its own, didn't do a single thing.I don't like throwing parts at trucks until I prove the old ones are bad first.
That's why I'm not telling you exactly what to replace.
Hi greasytshirt, very nice of you to offer your experience up.
i just bought a 2009 hino 268. i like the truck. When i test drove it, i got in and started the truck(should have let the glow plugs heat first i suppose) and it fired right up on the first crank of the key.
i picked the truck up 2 days later and the same thing, truck fired up boom first time i turned the key.
Now today, i got in the truck to move it and it fired up from cold again, first time i turned the key. this is where things get different. so i worked on the truck(i built a mounting system for some curtains for the refrigerated body) and when i went to get back in the truck to move it, the truck would not start. all accessories came on, all normal dash lights that come on when you put the key in and turn it came on, but the truck would not start. the lights remained on even after i turned the key. so i wait about a minute and try to fire it up and nothing... i turn the key to start it, then quickly back off and try to start(very fluid motion) and boom it fires right up.
i drive to where i was going, and boom same thing happens again. truck was sitting maybe 2 minutes off before i tried to restart. i do the same thing mentioned above, wait 1 minute then start and it fires right up.
I do not have an owners manual, however i have ordered one. I have never driven or owned a big truck like this before. closet thing was a ford f250 with the 7.3L power stroke. Does this sound like a problem or is it some sort of system that i just dont know about?
Also, when i test drove the truck, the engine brake never came on... when i drove it back from SC to GA, the engine brake was on and ever time i let off the gas, the engine would help stop the truck... nice feature, but is there some kind of switch to turn it off/on? Could i or someone else have accidentally pressed it?
Thank you for your advice in advance. I do plan on having the truck looked at by a hino dealership prior to putting in service just for my own peace of mind.
The drain tube is underneath the air cleaner, under the hood. It has one of those duck bill valves on it. Probably full of junk.Neither do I specially with the cost of some of them, picked the truck up today no brake light, gone on its own, didn't do a single thing. View attachment 11250
But we have a water leak inside, and yes the air condition is on
View attachment 11251
thank you for the quick reply. the truck did not even attempt to crank. when i turned the key, it made a sound like a dead battery... a very loud "CLICK" and then nothing. there was no cranking attempt. However, a minute later after i turned the key, it fired right up on the first turn of the key and ran great all the way home.Did it crank but not start, or was it not cranking? You didn't specify. Two widely different troubleshooting paths you'd need to take.
The right side multifunction switch controls the exhaust brake. Twist for wipers, pull toward you for hazard lights, bump it up and down for exhaust brake. Because the 09 has a DPF and the exhaust brake is used in conjunction with the regen process, I'm recommending that the brake is not left on all the time, as it's activation during a driving regen can interfere with the process. This is much less of an issue than it used to be. Several different tweaks have been done to the engine programming to make the regen process more reliable.
Treat the exhaust brake as a momentary switch. When you need it to slow down, activate it. When you're done, turn it off.
One nice feature is that you can use it to force a quick warm-up. This is nice in winter. Start the truck, engage the brake, and turn the idle speed knob all the way on. The truck will idle at 980 rpm while running against the brake, and the engine warms up very quickly.
Waiting for the glow plugs is probably unnecessary. Glow plugs were optional on a lot of the earlier ones, and the engines are functionally identical. Even if it's ten degrees outside, they whirl over without too much effort.