Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.

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greasytshirt

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Mechanic
We finally got back to this 2008 338 with lack of power issue.
Took dpr a part. The filter has some weird damage on outlet side. It's like a thin crack alone its outline. And also you can see some small melted particles
I don't have a good closeup picture, but here's some:View attachment 11309
We replaced it with the used one from another truck, that is waiting for major repair.
problem still exists - a bit low power, and very low during regen
We cleaned air pressure sensor, turbo seems to be ok, have sprayed thst nickel antiseeze in it
Not sure which "compressor wheel" you mentioned that is related to turbo. Is that a main air compressor that's attached to a flywheel?
also, wondering how ecu(or bcu) is monitoring regen process. Does it go buy inlet and outlet temp only? flow resistance? what happens if one will drill a hole through the filter?
I could only monitor intake air flow (our dx will not connect to Bcu to track boost pressure(if I am not mistaken its found in bcu)
so it is around 90 (86-109) while driving on auto regen
And around 180 (170-200) when its off
Also, p0400 active code appeared again. It was active and disappeared possibly after egr was taken off and cleaned.
we are going to replace egr valve solenoid tomorrow and see what happens.

The 2008-2010 trucks do not have a burner, so no bcu.

That dpf has overheated after trying to regen while overloaded with soot. It broke apart and has been destroyed.

The cold side of the turbo is the compressor. See if the turbo ALWAYS spins freely. If you ever feel it stick, replace it.

The ITV is highly suspect for being the cause of low piwer during regen. The turbo is the next likely cause.

P0400 can be caused by ITV stick or turbo failure. Can you exercise the EGR valve successfully throughout it's range using dx, within a 5% deviation? If you can, don't replace it without ruling everything else out first.

Soot volume is calculated using temp and pressure differentials, plus a number of other things. Youve already blown up that dpf so you might as well stick it back on there until you solve the problem. I guess ramming a hole through it cant possibly hurt it more than it already is. A hammer drill is likely to work well.
 

Jorge Arteaga

New Recruit
Hi! Thanks for sharing your expertise in this forum! I'm a software developer working on a fleet management system and we recently received the petition to install an obd-compliant tracking device on a Hino 268 ( http://www.hino.com/trucks/story_940.php#15 ) and we we're totally unable to find the port (though it's easy to find on passenger vehicles). Since we don't have any experience working with commercial cars, are they obd-ii compliant? Should I expect the same port than passenger cars or I should get an adapter? Where should I look for the port?

Thanks in advance!
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Hi! Thanks for sharing your expertise in this forum! I'm a software developer working on a fleet management system and we recently received the petition to install an obd-compliant tracking device on a Hino 268 ( http://www.hino.com/trucks/story_940.php#15 ) and we we're totally unable to find the port (though it's easy to find on passenger vehicles). Since we don't have any experience working with commercial cars, are they obd-ii compliant? Should I expect the same port than passenger cars or I should get an adapter? Where should I look for the port?

Thanks in advance!


These run a J1989 protocol on the high speed CAN. there's a low speed CAN too. Can your device work on J1939/J1708/J1537?

DLC location depends on year. 14 up they are next to drivers door, undrr the dash. Previously they were just to the right of the steering column.
 

jmak

Seasoned Expediter
Hi i have a 2008 Hino 258 its trowing a p0087 i have change the fuel filter and the scv valve already and still same thing truck has 378000 miles my buddy has a 100 of these j08e engines in his ud's and hino's and he has never changed a high pressure pump don't wanna throw a pump at it the only thing i haven't done is check the fuel lines for kinks collapsing or blockage. it also has a funny noise when driving like a grinding vibrating noise it seems like i can drive through it if i step down on pedal i thought it was the turbo or the flex-plate ? my experience is im a ase certified master tech for auto and also cert in med and heavy trucks not that means anything i work on a lot of internationals just need little help on this one any advice would be appreciated
thank you
So its been a while here is my findings running my ghetto fuel system the hino software you can check pump pressure desired and actual and it turned out that the pump after a while of running couldn't keep up so i put a pump on it problem solved . still didn't seem 100% so i looked at egr cooler and it was packed with :censoredsign: so i pulled it off and it was so packed you couldn't blow air or water though it so i replaced that well after that the truck would idle for a little while and start to get hot and the only thing that was different was egr cooler my thought was that the dpf filter had some blockage and passing exhaust gas through cooler and heating up coolant so i took the filter off and had it baked fixed that problem. After driving not even a mile i toughed the inlet side of the intercooler and that thing was freaking burning hot so i pulled the intercooler off and dumped about a gallon of purple power in it let it sit for a few min and the got so hot the stuff started boiling and foaming and all this black :censoredsign: came out did that a couple of times and flushed with water much better now still hot but not as bad . Now the grinding noise that i was asking about it turned out that it is the lock up plate in converter it finally set a p0741 and i looked at trans temp it was 207 and coolant temp was 203 tcc slip no lock up no good buddy at least the converter is only 350 bucks so ill put that in this weekend turns out the people who owned this truck before were real dirt bags and don't take care of their :censoredsign: hindsight my thought was how bad could it be yeah well still have to replace rocker box gasket and adjust valves :censoredsign: never ends anyway i figured you would appreciate my findings i thank you for you're advise and input
 
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greasytshirt

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So its been a while here is my findings running my ghetto fuel system the hino software you can check pump pressure desired and actual and it turned out that the pump after a while of running couldn't keep up so i put a pump on it problem solved . still didn't seem 100% so i looked at egr cooler and it was packed with **** so i pulled it off and it was so packed you couldn't blow air or water though it so i replaced that well after that the truck would idle for a little while and start to get hot and the only thing that was different was egr cooler my thought was that the dpf filter had some blockage and passing exhaust gas through cooler and heating up coolant so i took the filter off and had it baked fixed that problem. After driving not even a mile i toughed the inlet side of the intercooler and that thing was freaking burning hot so i pulled the intercooler off and dumped about a gallon of purple power in it let it sit for a few min and the got so hot the stuff started boiling and foaming and all this black **** came out did that a couple of times and flushed with water much better now still hot but not as bad . Now the grinding noise that i was asking about it turned out that it is the lock up plate in converter it finally set a p0741 and i looked at trans temp it was 207 and coolant temp was 203 tcc slip no lock up no good buddy at least the converter is only 350 bucks so ill put that in this weekend turns out the people who owned this truck before were real dirt bags and don't take care of their **** hindsight my thought was how bad could it be yeah well still have to replace rocker box gasket and adjust valves **** never ends anyway i figured you would appreciate my findings i thank you for you're advise and input

Hey, I appreciate your follow up. I've heard of the intercoolers doing that, but I've never seen one that bad in person. If you can find a machine shop with a hot tank with an aluminum-safe cleaner, it'd be worth the time to dunk it for a few hours.

When driving around with DX attached and you're looking at differential pressure across the DPF, I'd start raising an eyebrow if I saw it go over 4 psi.
 

elf722

New Recruit
Hi all. I've been working on Hino trucks almost exclusively for the last few years, and I'm pretty familiar with their ins and outs at this point. If anyone has a question, I'll be happy to answer it, if I know the answer.
ok greasy shirt help...I have a 2009 hino 185 with 2 codes first a p0045 second a p2002..i pulled the dpf and its literally brand new this truck shows the dpr is full all ten bars and wont do a manual regen the lite wont come on the swich and I checked the switch shows good,,, it keeps going into derate and here in okc we have a horrible service center for these trucks,,,i cant communicate with the computer,,, and don't have any software is there anyway to get it off those ten bars and stop this 2000 rpm max derate???
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
ok greasy shirt help...I have a 2009 hino 185 with 2 codes first a p0045 second a p2002..i pulled the dpf and its literally brand new this truck shows the dpr is full all ten bars and wont do a manual regen the lite wont come on the swich and I checked the switch shows good,,, it keeps going into derate and here in okc we have a horrible service center for these trucks,,,i cant communicate with the computer,,, and don't have any software is there anyway to get it off those ten bars and stop this 2000 rpm max derate???
The derate is from p0045, which is usually the turbo dying. Clean every ground wire on the vehicle, clean every battery connection. Spray nickel antiseize all over the vnt linkage. Check every harness plug around the turbo.

If it comes back, replace the turbo.

Only hino dx or DxII can knock the bars before 10. No regen over that without the ability to manipulate what the ecm has stored.
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
.i pulled the dpf and its literally brand new
The outlet will always look clean if the dpf is undamaged. What's essential is to find out the volume of particulate matter inside it. At 10 bars, there's around five g/liter inside, but if driven longer this number will continue to climb. The truck can safely regen up to 12 g/l (which is pushing it). The ecu customization menu, only accessible with dx software, will show this. Without knowing this, you should take the dpf assembly off and have it baked in a dpf cleaning oven. This will keep it from overheating and melting if there's too much soot inside it. Use new gaskets and hardware when reinstalling, and put nickel antiseize on the hardware. You may destroy the dpf inlet temp sensor in the process. Just dont mangle the threads in the dpf.

The front half of this assembly is the oxidation catalyst. Dont put it on backwards. Wear disposable gloves when taking the heat shield off or you will get fiberglass between your fingers.

The injectors need to be evaluated and replaced if they are bad. If they are good, have the exhaust brake adjusted. The exhaust brake should be adjusted if injectors are replaced too. It's essential for this to be adjusted correctly for reliable manual regens. It should never be adjusted tighter for better braking performance.
 

elf722

New Recruit
The derate is from p0045, which is usually the turbo dying. Clean every ground wire on the vehicle, clean every battery connection. Spray nickel antiseize all over the vnt linkage. Check every harness plug around the turbo.

If it comes back, replace the turbo.

Only hino dx or DxII can knock the bars before 10. No regen over that without the ability to manipulate what the ecm has stored.
Your the man I pulled the turbo and found the vnt
The outlet will always look clean if the dpf is undamaged. What's essential is to find out the volume of particulate matter inside it. At 10 bars, there's around five g/liter inside, but if driven longer this number will continue to climb. The truck can safely regen up to 12 g/l (which is pushing it). The ecu customization menu, only accessible with dx software, will show this. Without knowing this, you should take the dpf assembly off and have it baked in a dpf cleaning oven. This will keep it from overheating and melting if there's too much soot inside it. Use new gaskets and hardware when reinstalling, and put nickel antiseize on the hardware. You may destroy the dpf inlet temp sensor in the process. Just dont mangle the threads in the dpf.

The front half of this assembly is the oxidation catalyst. Dont put it on backwards. Wear disposable gloves when taking the heat shield off or you will get fiberglass between your fingers.

The injectors need to be evaluated and replaced if they are bad. If they are good, have the exhaust brake adjusted. The exhaust brake should be adjusted if injectors are replaced too. It's essential for this to be adjusted correctly for reliable manual regens. It should never be adjusted tighter for better braking performance.
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Your the man I pulled the turbo and found the vnt
Was it seized up? Sometimes the little motors inside die, but unfortunately the vnt controller is not available separately. Idk of anyone rebuilding the controller either.
 

elf722

New Recruit
The linkage was seized up at the turbo side..took the turbo and had it checked all was good thanks bro you saved me time andmade my boss happy and me look good..
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
The linkage was seized up at the turbo side..took the turbo and had it checked all was good thanks bro you saved me time andmade my boss happy and me look good..
No prob! Get some of that nickel antiseize and lube the vnt link periodically. Itll last a hell of a lot longer.
 
Z

zeeshan494

Guest
hlo sir I m driving hino 700 tiper truck engine break doesnt work when I turn engine brake on no icon of engine brake appears in dashbord plz help if u have any solution.waiting for yur reply thanx.
 
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zeeshan494

Guest
hlo sir I m driving hino 700 tiper truck engine break doesnt work when I turn engine brake on no icon of engine brake appears in dashbord plz help if u have any solution.waiting for yur reply thanx
 

greasytshirt

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Staff member
Mechanic
hlo sir I m driving hino 700 tiper truck engine break doesnt work when I turn engine brake on no icon of engine brake appears in dashbord plz help if u have any solution.waiting for yur reply thanx.
The Hino 700 isn't offered in the US. Are you from Australia or New Zealand?

I can't answer this question without some vehicle-specific information, like wiring diagrams. But for an initial inspection, I'd find the fuse that powers the brake, find the relay, and see if any of those things function. Does the relay come on with the switch?
 

diamondd

New Recruit
hi new here I have back pressure on my radiator think its a 469 cubic inch .check fluids everyday they are fine today reservoir was empty truck had been fine all day till tis after noon started going up little hill got a little sluggish engine light came on. got to stop light truck started running fine has been all the rest of today light still on though and radiator has back pressure now
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
hi new here I have back pressure on my radiator think its a 469 cubic inch .check fluids everyday they are fine today reservoir was empty truck had been fine all day till tis after noon started going up little hill got a little sluggish engine light came on. got to stop light truck started running fine has been all the rest of today light still on though and radiator has back pressure now
I sent you a pm.
 
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