We finally got back to this 2008 338 with lack of power issue.
Took dpr a part. The filter has some weird damage on outlet side. It's like a thin crack alone its outline. And also you can see some small melted particles
I don't have a good closeup picture, but here's some:View attachment 11309
We replaced it with the used one from another truck, that is waiting for major repair.
problem still exists - a bit low power, and very low during regen
We cleaned air pressure sensor, turbo seems to be ok, have sprayed thst nickel antiseeze in it
Not sure which "compressor wheel" you mentioned that is related to turbo. Is that a main air compressor that's attached to a flywheel?
also, wondering how ecu(or bcu) is monitoring regen process. Does it go buy inlet and outlet temp only? flow resistance? what happens if one will drill a hole through the filter?
I could only monitor intake air flow (our dx will not connect to Bcu to track boost pressure(if I am not mistaken its found in bcu)
so it is around 90 (86-109) while driving on auto regen
And around 180 (170-200) when its off
Also, p0400 active code appeared again. It was active and disappeared possibly after egr was taken off and cleaned.
we are going to replace egr valve solenoid tomorrow and see what happens.
The 2008-2010 trucks do not have a burner, so no bcu.
That dpf has overheated after trying to regen while overloaded with soot. It broke apart and has been destroyed.
The cold side of the turbo is the compressor. See if the turbo ALWAYS spins freely. If you ever feel it stick, replace it.
The ITV is highly suspect for being the cause of low piwer during regen. The turbo is the next likely cause.
P0400 can be caused by ITV stick or turbo failure. Can you exercise the EGR valve successfully throughout it's range using dx, within a 5% deviation? If you can, don't replace it without ruling everything else out first.
Soot volume is calculated using temp and pressure differentials, plus a number of other things. Youve already blown up that dpf so you might as well stick it back on there until you solve the problem. I guess ramming a hole through it cant possibly hurt it more than it already is. A hammer drill is likely to work well.