Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.

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zorry

Veteran Expediter
I just googled 'Hino problems'. This website and this thread are the two first hits. Sixteen thousand people have clicked on this thread.

I'm internet famous!

Is that a reflection on you and your advice ( :) ) or a reflection on the Hino.
( :( )
Anyway, I like many others, are glad you're here.
And I don't even own a Hino.

Being internet famous and $1.50 will get you a cup of coffee in most places.
 
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Ragman

Veteran Expediter
Retired Expediter
. . . I'm internet famous!

internet-famous_o_1193739.jpg
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Ok, next question, before I replaced my alternator, the problem I was working on that caused me to find the alternator was bad was that my AC would not work, the first time I noticed it, I climbed underneath and saw that the compressor was turning a little bit, and the belt was not slpping, just the clutch. Now it wont engage at all, going to check to make sure that there is voltage getting to the coil in the clutch, but im pretty sure there is. Do you know if the coil is available by itself or do I have to replace the entire compressor?

Good question. I don't know if it comes separately. There's nothing remarkable about the compressor or clutch. I imagine a new/reman/aftermarket clutch can be obtained if the compressor model is identified.
 

bighoss

Rookie Expediter
just found this thread great info. i am a mechanic for a fleet of about 75 hino 338 single axle dumptrucks just out of warranty varying from 2008-2014. i am new to hino used to mack and intl have several with leaking camshaft housing gaskets my boss gave them to me to fix. following the tech manual it says set #1 at TDC but 1 and 6 both are at tdc the "book" says check the flywheel for an indicator to determine which is compression or exhaust, but no location for it any help is appreciated
thanks in advance kevin
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
just found this thread great info. i am a mechanic for a fleet of about 75 hino 338 single axle dumptrucks just out of warranty varying from 2008-2014. i am new to hino used to mack and intl have several with leaking camshaft housing gaskets my boss gave them to me to fix. following the tech manual it says set #1 at TDC but 1 and 6 both are at tdc the "book" says check the flywheel for an indicator to determine which is compression or exhaust, but no location for it any help is appreciated
thanks in advance kevin

Hey there,

The camshaft housings do sometimes leak a little, but it's much more common that the head gaskets leak on the right rear side, in the corner where the idler gear is kept. Something to look at.

If you have to take a cam housing off, be aware that the cam bearing cap bolts have two different torques. Be sure to back all of the rocker arm adjusters all the way back because the hold down bolts sometimes strip the threads out of the rocker box.

The book is straight up retarded. First, there may be marks on the balancer that are easier to use. Use these instead of on the flywheel. There's a cover with two bolts on the flywheel housing, driver's side, kind of behind the compressor. It's halfway under the cab, and nearly impossible to see.

Turn the engine to 1/6 mark. Take the plug out of the injection pump and try to thread a valve cover bolt into it. It should go all the way in. If it doesn't, spin the engine 180*. If it still doesn't, the injection pump is out of time. It will run fine out of time, there just may be some slight vibration from something something dynamic vibration something from the air compressor. Doesn't really matter. If this is the case, ignore the pump and put the timing mark on 1/6. Doesn't matter if it's 180 out. For the love of all that is holy, remember to take the bolt out of the injection pump before you try to spin the engine.

Looking from the front of the engine to the rear, You'll see two marks on one side of the cam gear and one mark on the other. Put the two marks on the left, with the bottom mark level with the cam housing surface. This should make the opposing mark level too. Back on the left side, the upper mark will be above the surface. In other words, the left upper timing mark will be visible, and the other two level with the cam housing surface. That's it. Install cam, rockers, injectors. Be extremely careful installing the fuel return tube. Do NOT reuse it. No kinks or bending are permitted at all! Don't reuse the banjo bolt with the '+' mark on it, it's a one torque deal. If you have to take it off, throw it away and get another. Don't reuse the washer seals.The '+' has a different, slightly thicker washer seal than the rest. The '+' bolt also has a different thread pitch than the rest, so don't get them mixed up. The torque on these banjo bolts is 110-115 inch pounds. Ignore the 9 lb/ft spec in the book, do not use a lb/ft torque wrench. Use an lb/in torque wrench. Have someone double check your work. If this line leaks, the engine will kick a connecting rod out of the block. If this is done correctly, it will never fail.
 
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greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
I have a 2005 Hino 145, it had a dead short, which we eventually found but during our search we removed the alternator, when we pulled it out accidentally pulled apart the wire from the coupler that connects to the temperature sender. (The wire is strapped to the back of the alternator arm). 4 wires go into this connector. We re-assembled it the way it looked like it was (same twist on the wire) but lately have had some problems with temperature readings (truck hasn't been driven that much since we found the short). do you have a wiring diagram, and maybe a picture of the plug, so we can tell if we wired it right?? The wires are bared, and push in the back of the plug with those little rubber grommets holding them in.

A lot to ask, but i thought maybe...
Thanks,
Doug

The actual coolant temp sensor only has two wires in it, and it doesn't really matter if they get reversed. Can you take a pic of this plug and post it here?

If you're having weird temp fluctuations, pull the intercooler off and hose down the radiator with cleaner, let it soak, spray it with a garden hose (no pressure washers, fins are delicate) and then compressed air, still being wary of bending the fins. All of these trucks can trap a ridiculous amount of junk in the radiator and it's not even visible unles the intercooler comes off.
 
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jeffcarl

Seasoned Expediter
quote_icon.png
Originally Posted by jeffcarl
Hello again Mr GTS
I have a self-inflicted problem: the box I put on my cab & chassis is too tall to back into my building. I have 11R22.5 tires on it. My rear axle is 21,000 lbs, tires are plenty capable. Now here's the questions: Can I use 225 (or 255) 70R-22.5 tires? That would reduce my truck height by 5". Problems are 1) tire capacity is 5070 ea, or 20,280, which is 720 less than the back axle, is this a deal breaker? 2) various computer changes necessary for speedo & abs, can this be done? 3) will I be running rpm too high at highway speeds, and can if so can the Allison be adjusted for higher ratio.



Tach Speedo.jpg


What year is the truck?

1. Idk anything about configuring a truck.

2. Yes, but it depends on the year. Early trucks used a handheld device that is fairly rare. Later ones are easy.

3. What rpm does it run now at your regular top speed? No, the Allison has fixed gear ratios. A rear gearset change might be feasible if we can calculate what ratio you'll need. Get me the year, and ill try to remember to grab the right book.


It's a 2013 338
See photo above for tach / speedo
Will smaller tires affect the ABS? I have heard that it will be a problem.

Thanks
jeff
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
quote_icon.png
Originally Posted by jeffcarl
Hello again Mr GTS
I have a self-inflicted problem: the box I put on my cab & chassis is too tall to back into my building. I have 11R22.5 tires on it. My rear axle is 21,000 lbs, tires are plenty capable. Now here's the questions: Can I use 225 (or 255) 70R-22.5 tires? That would reduce my truck height by 5". Problems are 1) tire capacity is 5070 ea, or 20,280, which is 720 less than the back axle, is this a deal breaker? 2) various computer changes necessary for speedo & abs, can this be done? 3) will I be running rpm too high at highway speeds, and can if so can the Allison be adjusted for higher ratio.



View attachment 9535





It's a 2013 338
See photo above for tach / speedo
Will smaller tires affect the ABS? I have heard that it will be a problem.

Thanks
jeff


What are the first 8 digits of the VIN? I'm assuming it's 5PVNV8JT.

As long as all of the tires are all the same size, the ABS will be unaffected.

I'm trying to look up the speed/rpm data now.

This has air bags on the rear, right?
 

zorry

Veteran Expediter
Will reduce height by 5" ?
If a tire is 5" smaller, wouldn't it reduce the height 2.5 inches ?

I didn't investigate tire sizes, so this may not be a question worth asking.

To clarify, you need a tire 10" smaller to lower the vehicle 5". If my logic is correct.
 
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paullud

Veteran Expediter
Will reduce height by 5" ?
If a tire is 5" smaller, wouldn't it reduce the height 2.5 inches ?

I didn't investigate tire sizes, so this may not be a question worth asking.

To clarify, you need a tire 10" smaller to lower the vehicle 5". If my logic is correct.

I would agree with you, I don't remember 255's being that much lower than the tall tires. I think they measured the entire diameter of the tire not realizing that it would only give them half of the difference.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using EO Forums mobile app
 

zorry

Veteran Expediter
Hey GTS, up for a road trip ? If so, how about cruising over to a thread called DAC Report and commenting on posts 16-17.
If I'm mis-informed, school me.
Thanks.
 

wanro

Seasoned Expediter
Thanks for the great information. I followed your advice and inspected and cleaned the fuel line but I still have the same problem. As far as replacing the SCV sensor, does it have its own code. If it were malfunctioning, wouldnt I get a code for that as well or not? Thanks again
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
The suction control valve does have a few codes that pertain to it specifically, but they rarely fail that way. Instead, they just stick a little. P0087 Low rail pressure and P0088 high rail pressure are often caused by the scv sticking.

I'm not sure I remember our conversation that well. Did you have Hino DX available? Can you look at the system protection data and see if the flow dampeners have tripped on any cylinders?
 

jeffcarl

Seasoned Expediter
What are the first 8 digits of the VIN? I'm assuming it's 5PVNV8JT

As long as all of the tires are all the same size, the ABS will be unaffected.

I'm trying to look up the speed/rpm data now.

This has air bags on the rear, right?


CORRECTION: 5PVNV8JV.

CORRECTION: No, springs in the back. Air brakes only.


Thanks
jeff
 

Flatlander

Rookie Expediter
The actual coolant temp sensor only has two wires in it, and it doesn't really matter if they get reversed. Can you take a pic of this plug and post it here?

If you're having weird temp fluctuations, pull the intercooler off and hose down the radiator with cleaner, let it soak, spray it with a garden hose (no pressure washers, fins are delicate) and then compressed air, still being wary of bending the fins. All of these trucks can trap a ridiculous amount of junk in the radiator and it's not even visible unles the intercooler comes off.

No temp fluctuations, just no temp reading, and check engine light. I see I was wrong, there are three wires, light green, light green with white, light green with black, back of the plug (#11451) has Numbers 1 and 2 across from each other, and 3 opposite the clip that holds the plug in.DSCN2126.jpgDSCN2122.jpgDSCN2123.jpg The sender is located at the end of the screwdriver in the first photo, close up in in the second. Also need info on how to remove the connectors so we can re-crimp them to the wires.
Thanks for the heads up about the rad, we will make checking that part of our maintenance.
Thanks a million,
Doug
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
No temp fluctuations, just no temp reading, and check engine light. I see I was wrong, there are three wires, light green, light green with white, light green with black, back of the plug (#11451) has Numbers 1 and 2 across from each other, and 3 opposite the clip that holds the plug in.The sender is located at the end of the screwdriver in the first photo, close up in in the second. Also need info on how to remove the connectors so we can re-crimp them to the wires.
Thanks for the heads up about the rad, we will make checking that part of our maintenance.
Thanks a million,
Doug


Weird. The diagram I looked at and a similar truck both just had two wires.
 
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greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
No temp fluctuations, just no temp reading, and check engine light. I see I was wrong, there are three wires, light green, light green with white, light green with black, back of the plug (#11451) has Numbers 1 and 2 across from each other, and 3 opposite the clip that holds the plug in.View attachment 9549View attachment 9550View attachment 9551 The sender is located at the end of the screwdriver in the first photo, close up in in the second. Also need info on how to remove the connectors so we can re-crimp them to the wires.
Thanks for the heads up about the rad, we will make checking that part of our maintenance.
Thanks a million,
Doug
I sent you a PM.
There's a plastic piece inside the terminal body (front view). Pull it out. May have to remove the weatherpack seal. This will uncover the locking tabs that release the terminals.
 
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