Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.
- Thread starter greasytshirt
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- 2016 hino
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Having gone away from the burner system on the 11-14 conventional trucks, the dpf system seems to be very reliable. The scr system is the same style used by many manufacturers. We have several customers with them. Aside from a truck that went for a swim, none of them have needed anything other than scheduled maintenance.
Changing the fuel filter should be simple, but it's not. Well, you have to do it a certain way or it will leak.
Pretty much all diagnostics will require factory software. Most manufacturers are getting more and more proprietary in this regard, and Hino is no exception.
It's a heck of a lot easier to rebuild a Hino engine , but the parts are expensive. If you're not keeping it forever, this probably won't matter.
I think Hino and Isuzu are pretty much equals when it comes to building COEs, but Isuzu probably has a better dealer network.
I'm not sure which truck is better. They are both good.
Sometimes the brake switch on the front relay valve craps out. You can test by driving the truck until it misbehaves, then unplugging it and inserting a jumper. If the truck thinks the brakes are engaged, it'll have a pronounced lack of power.
Angil82 and her husband dropped their truck off at the place I work, and the guys and I got it sorted out for her. I think they were happy, but I'm waiting for their review.I'm sorryjust another aggravated hino owner, who has no clue wtf is going on. Truly, I'm still confused and aggravated. Expect a call from me later, after I bash my head off the dash .
Although i'm not a hino owner, it's been interesting following you. I hope hino owners appreacate having you as an EO member and taking the time to help them.
Well, when I'm working on my car, or someone elses car, or boat motor or whatever and I don't have a manual for it, I rely on Google. When there is no information available at all, it is very frustrating. I mean, you should be able to find anything on the internet.
Someone had to do it.
If the occasional person reads this thread and stops by my shop to get their truck fixed, even better. I'm gonna answer questions regardless because I think it's the right thing to do.
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Hi Im the guy with the fuel problem. u asked for codes.....p2002--p0087--p0628-u1123-u1122......
Wht do u think???
P2002 DPF malfunction
P0087 low rail pressure
P0628 scv malfunction
Scv valve is messing up. It's probably causing the P0087 code. May be the valve, may be a bad connector. Any evidence of a rusty powder at all in the scv connector, replace the connector body and both wire terminals.
If the connector looks perfect, replace the scv.
If you're feeling adventurous, check the rail limiter for leakage.
P2002: How are the injectors? Does the truck clack and knock on cold startup? At a fixed throttle position (put it at 1500rpm with the cruise switches), does the rpm stay nice and steady, or does it kind of hunt around? Both are indications that the injectors are loopy.
Is there soot in the tailpipe? If so, take it to the dealer, there's a recall going on right now that may get you a new one at no cost.
The exhaust brake has to be set correctly. This can only be done with dealer software. Part of that recall I mentioned.
The ITV has to be modified, if it hasn't been. There's pics on here somewhere that show how to do it. The throttle plate screws have to be tight, no slop in the shaft.
The engine oil can't be overfilled.
Change air filter if filthy. No boost leaks allowed.
Back at the dpf, disconnect hoses from the differential pressure sensor and blow air through them. They sometimes clog. Make sure the hoses aren't cracked. Check the harness side of the dpf temp sensors for breaks in the wiring. Depending on the mileage, the dpf may just be packed with ash and will need to be baked. You have a bunch of other crap to check before you can come to that conclusion, though.
The u-codes: Clean the frame and body grounds thoroughly. Sand them down to bare metal. Make sure all the batteries are good with corrosion free clamps. The u-codes are almost always caused by bad grounds, especially the cab to frame ground, left rear corner of cab.
Thanku for getting back to me!!!! wht is SVC? and DPF? excuse my ignorance... the truck has 310,000 miles and it did seem to be losing a little of its power before this happened.. the oil is overfilled somewhat.. and the air filter has not been changed in a two years, no rusty powder. the RPM seemed fine ..started well also
Scv means suction control valve, aka fuel pressure regulator. Left rear of engine, on the injection pump, it's a shiny little cylinder about an inch in diameter and about 2.5 inches long. It has an electrical connector on the front of it. This is the connector that might have the rusty powder in it. I'm not suggesting that powder will actually fall out of it when it's unplugged, I've just observed that trucks with P0628 rarely have an actual scv failure, it's usually just a bad connection. The slight dusting of powder near the terminals in the connector is just a clue. If there is any doubt, replace the two terminals and the connector body. This is the cheapest possible solution. The scv itself is around $250. Also inexpensive, in the grand scheme of things. It's a pain in the rear to replace; you'll want to get a 6", 5mm, ball end hex driver. Gearwrench makes them and they sell a set at Advance Auto parts for $35. I've yet to break one, but they have a lifetime warranty just in case.
The dpf is the Diesel Particulate Filter. Hino calls the system the DPR. I'll use both terms interchangeably. It's the big cannister on the end of the exhaust pipe. It's got a diesel oxidation catalyst and the particulate filter in the same can. It's extremely expensive. The P2002 code means that you are flirting with disaster. If that thing gets overfilled with soot or ash, it will have to be taken apart and put in a special cleaning oven to save it.
If the injectors are bad, or if sufficient engine oil gets into it, or if the Intake throttle valve sticks shut during a regen, or if regens are ignored until the DPR meter shows 9 bars, or if the mass airflow sensor is skewed, or if the exhaust brake is set too high, it will overheat the dpf when it's doing a regen and the catalyst and filter substrate will melt. Then you get to spend somewhere between $2500 and $4000 to replace it. Don't screw around; replace the air filter, get the excess oil out of the engine, fix any boost leaks, and get the exhaust brake adjusted. If there's a lot of soot in your tailpipe, it's probably too late.
Better yet, call your dealer, give him your VIN, and ask if the A8440/A8510 recall pertains to your truck. They will look at the inlet and outlet temps of the DPF that have been stored in the computer, they will see if soot is in the tailpipe. Depending on what they find, they will inspect the dpf for damage, replace it if it is, reset the exhaust brake, do a couple of regens to make sure it doesn't get too hot, and then you'll get it back. Ask them to modify the ITV if it hasn't already been done. If it's worn out, you'll have to replace it out of pocket. If they think your injectors are questionable, they might do a test to evaluate their health.
Edit: For those of you that are just reading, the above information on the P2002 code is for 2008-2010 trucks only, four or six cylinder. The ITV modification is for 6 cylinder trucks only. Don't go drilling holes in the ITV of a 4 banger. I don't know what will happen if you do.
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Hey everyone, raise your hand if this information makes sense at all.
If your reaction is this,
http://giant.gfycat.com/JealousSerpentineIndigobunting.gif
then maybe I can try to explain it differently.
If your reaction is this,
http://giant.gfycat.com/JealousSerpentineIndigobunting.gif
then maybe I can try to explain it differently.
Hi How r u today??? !! Removed scv,.., Put a meter on the power wire that goes to the scv to c if power is getting to it and got nothing!!!.. Hooked the scv up to 12 volt battery.. I can hear it click !!! Jus wanted to check it.... turned over the engine and fuel is coming out of the hole where the scv was... there is hardly any soot build up in tail pipe. wht do u think ???? I am 100 miles from the nearest dealer.
Th scv is pulse width modulated. To get an accurate look at its activity, you'd need to backprobe the connector and look at the signal with an oscilloscope with the engine running.
Drain the excess oil from the engine.
Take the black air hose off of the intercooler. Look at the throttle plate inside the engine. Are there three holes drilled into it?
Yes , you need to go to the dealer, at least to get the exhaust brake adjusted. Ask about recalls, and get all of them done.
There is three holes in the throttle plate,, I have a new scv that i am going to install, i did drain the excess oil , if i shoot fuel in the throttle body it wants to start. I jus dont want to have it towed to the dealer, hope to drive it there.. do u think that would b ok??? is there some kind of relay or fuse that would keep a power signal from getting to the scv??? when u turn the key. also have new air filter.
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Put the new scv in, and leave it unplugged. Crank the engine (it may take several tens of seconds of cranking). Does it start? Do not attempt to drive it if it does start. This is just for testing purposes.
I looked up the two U codes you had. They are CAN communication failures to the EGR valve and the VNT controller.
Pop the fuse cover off. Look at the ecm. Concentrate on the leftmost connector. Starting at the lower right corner, count right to left until you get to pins 21 and 22. Third row up. They are a twisted pair. With the ignition on, check the voltage from each to ground. They should both have around 2.5 volts on them, with one being slightly higher than the other. 2.3 and 2.6, for example. If not, check ecm power and grounds (including battery ground strap and body to frame ground).
Pop the fuse cover off. Look at the ecm. Concentrate on the leftmost connector. Starting at the lower right corner, count right to left until you get to pins 21 and 22. Third row up. They are a twisted pair. With the ignition on, check the voltage from each to ground. They should both have around 2.5 volts on them, with one being slightly higher than the other. 2.3 and 2.6, for example. If not, check ecm power and grounds (including battery ground strap and body to frame ground).
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