So, I need to read up on air over hydraulic. New to me, let me do that before bugging folks for help.
Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.
- Thread starter greasytshirt
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2007 Hino
Greasytshirt: out of curiosity..what's up with the picture? I lived in SE Asia for a few years and rode in those many a day.
Tuk tuks are sweet. They're the simplest cargo vehicle there is. Gotta appreciate that.
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The usual suspects are the turbo's vnt controller and high/low pressure at fuel rail.
Get the codes read first. Otherwise you'll be wasting your time.
You could also put a fuel filter on it and check for restrictions, and hose down the vnt link pivots with loctite nickel antiseize. I have described both of these in detail earlier in the thread.
Well I have to agree. Nothing like screaming along in a Tuk Tuk on Sukhumvit with the days shopping, wife and holding on for the ride.
So ...a big favor. Is it possible to get a schematic of the air over hydraulic system? I'm not getting air pressure. I figure it could be compressor, governor, lines, or ? I've got manuals on the way but they only ship slow UPS ground. I've been reading through the threads and haven't seen you discuss air over hydraulic but if you have I'll certainly go start there. Otherwise I'm reading a few pages a day backwards trying to let it soak in. I know others have offered steaks but I would deliver on that if you are in Northern VA.
luluwhit
New Recruit
Hi Greasytshirt... we are looking for a performance chip for a 258. got any suggestions?
Nope!
It's a roll back, isn't it? Sacrifice top end for acceleration and change the rear gearing.
A quote from the dealer:
Per our conversation yesterday, we found the DPR system has failed. We also found 3 of the 6 injectors overfueling. We are recommending to replace all 6 due to the fact that if we don’t replace all six it can cause damage to the new DPR.
Per our conversation yesterday, we found the DPR system has failed. We also found 3 of the 6 injectors overfueling. We are recommending to replace all 6 due to the fact that if we don’t replace all six it can cause damage to the new DPR.
Pretty common. The injectors degrade, the ecu can't control them properly, it overfuels, fills the dpf with soot and eventually melts it or blows the rear off of it.
What did you originally take it in for? Check engine light? Is there soot in the exhaust pipe?
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JGMMDURAMAX
Rookie Expediter
I have come across these websites:
I have found these websites:
Digi CRT Module - sprinterstore.com
Powerchips - Power chips, Power trucks, HGV remapping, Vehicle remapping, Diesel remapping - Search Results 258
Diesel Tunit Chip For Hino,258,164kW,NTUN260
Off-highway tuning for diesel engine | Diesel Spec Inc
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I can't make a recommendation on tuners for Hinos.
Joshsoccer4
New Recruit
I have a 97 hino FA was running fine. Pressure washed it and now it wont start cranks but wont start.
Checked all fuses relats etc no problems batteries are charged and clean what do you think?
Checked all fuses relats etc no problems batteries are charged and clean what do you think?
Trying to make my way through all 59 pages... lots to absorb, and a wealth of wonderful information.
I just bought my first Hino, a 2011 258 with 217K miles on it. It runs great, but has a CEL light on.
If I plan to buy another hino or 2 in the future, should I buy Hino DX? What about the newer model DXII? Is it backward compatible with this 2011 truck? I'm currently looking at a 2014 268 with 107K miles.
This truck runs fine, but again, CEL. The DPF shows one bar, no soot on the exhaust. Here are the codes (inactive)
P204F
P2214
P2269
P141F
U010E
U1123
I have reason to believe that maintenance may have been neglected for the last 80-100K miles. Oil changes and nothing more. We'd like to get this truck in satisfactory condition before we place it into service, and our local Hino dealer is not exactly on my nice list...
I just bought my first Hino, a 2011 258 with 217K miles on it. It runs great, but has a CEL light on.
If I plan to buy another hino or 2 in the future, should I buy Hino DX? What about the newer model DXII? Is it backward compatible with this 2011 truck? I'm currently looking at a 2014 268 with 107K miles.
This truck runs fine, but again, CEL. The DPF shows one bar, no soot on the exhaust. Here are the codes (inactive)
P204F
P2214
P2269
P141F
U010E
U1123
I have reason to believe that maintenance may have been neglected for the last 80-100K miles. Oil changes and nothing more. We'd like to get this truck in satisfactory condition before we place it into service, and our local Hino dealer is not exactly on my nice list...
There are two cables going to the injection pump. One goes to the accelerator pedal. The other goes to the engine shutoff motor, which is located under the panel on the front, under the windshield. Flip the cab up, and have someone turn the ignition on while you watch the cables. With the ignition on, one will move to the run position. With the key off, it will move to the opposite position.
If this does not work, there's an electrical problem. On the frame behind the drivers door is a fusible link box. Water may have gotten inside.
If the cable does move back and forth when working the key, I'm assuming that a fuel line was damaged and air got inside.
Let me know if the shutoff function works or not, that'll give me an idea of what to check next.
First question: What's the application? Many rollbacks are 258's. Is this a rollback? If yes, there are some tricks to help you, but let's go through what we have here first.
If it is possible to get DXII, go for it. When you learn how to use it, it will pay for itself multiple times over. Expect a learning curve though. There are also three manuals for the 11-13 trucks dealing with troubleshooting. You want these and the chassis manual with the wiring diagrams. These plus DXII will save you a ton of money in the long run. DXII works with all trucks 2005 and up. I have reason to believe that the older DX software will not talk to anything 2015 and newer.
Additionally, I doubt these are the extent of the codes actually in the truck. P141F for example: This is a generic code sent from the Burner Control Unit (BCU) to the ECU, telling the ECU that there's a problem and to turn on the check engine light. P141F shows up for ANY burner problem, but you have no burner specific codes. No generic scan tool that I know of will pull codes from the BCU or DCU. These module-specific codes are crucial to figure out the problem.
P204F SCR malfunction
P2214 abnormality in downstream NOx sensor
P2269 water in fuel
P141F Burner malfunction
U010E CAN communication blackout to Dosing Control Unit
U1123 CAN communication blackout to the turbo VNT controller
Sounds expensive. Possibly not totally heinous. First priority Is to try to knock U1123 off of the list.
The first step is to disconnect the batteries, then take the air filter housing completely off the truck, along with the right front fender. Then remove the junction connector box cover (black box on the firewall). Look at the foam insulation around the cover. Is there a gap in the insulation? Is there evidence of water having been in the box at some point? If yes on either of these, disconnect all of the connectors and look very carefully for any signs of corrosion on any pins. Look at the back of the connectors too, where the wires go in. If there is corrosion, the terminal needs to be replaced entirely. Just cleaning the terminal isn't good enough because corrosion is likely to wick into the wire.
There is a terminal repair kit available to address this specific problem. There is also a tool kit, three terminal release tools in tiny sizes which are needed to avoid mangling the connector body. If you have a selection of good, small terminal release tools, then this might not be needed. But it sure is helpful.
In particular, U010E and U1123 may be caused by a poor connection in this box due to corrosion. If someone isn't thorough with their troubleshooting, a possibly unneeded turbocharger replacement might be performed. Corrosion here is sometimes the cause of P141F. Actually, corrosion in this box could cause nearly any code to be set, since this is a major hub in the wiring harness. The burner wiring happens to be closer to the bottom of the box, near whatever water makes it's way inside.
An updated cover with no gap in the foam is available. It comes with another piece that supports a section of the harness. Get this cover kit.
Clean all the battery terminals, replace any crappy batteries. Clean the ground connections at the frame with a scotchbrite disk on a die grinder. Waterproof with grease and bolt back together tight.
P2269: If there's no water in the bottom of the fuel/water separator, the sensor has probably died. Simple enough. If there is water, you want to take steps to eliminate it BUT don't use additives designed to remove water. These just emulsify the water into the fuel and that will still damage the injectors. It's best to drain the tanks and clean them out. Yes, that's a pain in the ass.
P2214 is pretty common. Remove the passenger side steps and the stainless steel shield covering the SCR catalyst. The NOx sensors look like O2 sensors with an aluminum box on the connector ends. Remove the box and flip it over. There were three part numbers out there. The latest ends with E0451. If yours ends with E0450 or 0020, you need to get two new updated NOx sensors. These things are expensive af. If you have E0451 sensors, DEF concentration should be checked. I use a refractometer to check DEF concentration. If that's ok, the DEF injector spray pattern is probably abnormal, or it's partially clogged or something.
U010E, U1123: CAN communication problems. The quick and dirty method is to look for normal voltages on the CAN+ and CAN- wires, plus checking the resistance on the CAN. CAN+ is generally around 2.6v, CAN- is around 2.4. You really need the chassis manual with the wiring diagrams to figure out where the terminating resistors are, and which wires are which. And for God's sake, don't juice up the CAN with a power probe, nor use an analog test light. True RMS digital voltmeters only. I use a Fluke 88V. The troubleshooting books have flowcharts in them, but if they reach an expensive conclusion, hold off on ECU/DCU/BCU/VCS replacement until you can't prove anything else is the culprit. These computers are well made and rarely go bad. The cause is almost invariably something else.
P204F: SCR malfunctions are not uncommon. But you don't have any corresponding codes from the DCU, probably because of the U010E (assuming that DXII was used to retrieve this list of codes, that is). Be thorough and critical with your junction box inspection.
P141F, with no other codes from the BCU to narrow it down. Yay. Dealing with burner issues can be a bit tricky, but this is where DXII is absolutely necessary. Without it, there is little you can do aside from shotgunning parts at it. What you can do in the meantime is remove the igniters from the face of the burner and clean them off (no wire brushes, just brake cleaner and a rag). They will be absolutely covered with soot, but that is normal. There should be infinite resistance between the plug wire connector and the threaded part. If there is not (you get some continuity, even slight), then the spark is likely to short to the soot rather than jump the gap across the igniters. Clean them and retest. If there's still continuity, replace. There's a hell of a lot more to it than this, but this is a simple thing you can do right now that very well could improve regen quality.
I'm about to call it a night. That ought to keep you busy for a while.
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Oh, and adjust the valves. I guarantee that has never been done before. It's supposed to be done every 50k.
Your assumption was correct, it is indeed a rollback. This one actually is a 258 with full air...
Yes, this will keep me busy for awhile. I need to call tomorrow and find out what the inservice date is. Unsure whether any warranty remains. All codes posted came from the dashboard.... I have no scantool for a hino atm.
I can tell you that the batteries were totally dead and the connections were quite corroded when I picked up the truck. The automotive batteries have been replaced with stud type 1000cca truck batteries (yay) and I have them clean and on separate battery chargers as we speak. I'll be load testing the crap out of them tomorrow, and will replace both if either doesn't pass with margin to spare. I'm wondering how much of all this could be caused by crap batteries.
I just saw how much DXII costs... holy
.
Yes, this will keep me busy for awhile. I need to call tomorrow and find out what the inservice date is. Unsure whether any warranty remains. All codes posted came from the dashboard.... I have no scantool for a hino atm.
I can tell you that the batteries were totally dead and the connections were quite corroded when I picked up the truck. The automotive batteries have been replaced with stud type 1000cca truck batteries (yay) and I have them clean and on separate battery chargers as we speak. I'll be load testing the crap out of them tomorrow, and will replace both if either doesn't pass with margin to spare. I'm wondering how much of all this could be caused by crap batteries.
I just saw how much DXII costs... holy
.
They do not like dead batteries at all! I wouldn't be surprised if one or both of the CAN codes disappeared. Still, get inside that junction box and look very thoroughly. The connector halves that are anchored inside the box need to be pulled out too so you can inspect the rear.
Regular DX is capable of doing everything you need to on an 11-13 truck, it's just A LOT slower.
Depending on whether you can get your hands on a dealer or fleet version of DX, you can set the ecu to allow for manual regens at any time, and possibly auto regens while parked with the pto on. The PTO switch can also be wired to the ecu so it automatically ramps up to the desired rpm when you turn the pto on. This means full power at that specific rpm is now available, and if you were struggling to winch a heavy load onto the bed before, it'll easily handle it now. No chance of overspeeding the pto, either (many maxout at 1200 rpm or so). The engine will immediately ramp up to the desired speed as soon as it sees that the pto has fully engaged. No more screwing around with the cruise switches or idle knob.
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