Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.
- Thread starter greasytshirt
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- 2016 hino
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These torques are too high, refer to the TSB i posted earlier.
If yours is the single nut type, then do not torque to these values. It's snugged then backed off. It still sounds like yours are a bit loose.
nedispatch
New Recruit
Thank you for replying!
I took it to the dealer and they programed it but once I got it home I noticed that oil is dripping from the top of the oil filter and from the front of the oil pan. you can see its a good leak since the exhaust pipe, front axle and front of the transmission is greased.
So frustrated I only put about 50 miles since getting it from Penske and they said they do not cover oil leaks.
I replaced the oil filter, made sure its done properly but it's still leaking once the engine is running, Its coming from the top of the filter and I can not see from where. Now I am not sure if that went over to the other side of the pan or I need a new oil pan gasket as well.
Probably coming from the oil cooler, there are o rings between the cooler and the block, mostly labor to change them as the turbo has to come off. I did this job myself, wasn't that bad, just took some time
nedispatch
New Recruit
Thanks for replying,
As far as I can see without taking the turbo off everything is dry above the oil filter, Is there a way to see if the oil cooler is leaking without taking turbo off?
Completely hose the engine down with cleaner, get a good flashlight, run the engine and look. I tend to use 3-4 cans of brake cleaner while doing this.
It's not that bad unless you break some bolts.
Epiphany. Check the oil pressure sensor. While its common for the oil cooler to leak, the oil pressure switch sometimes fails. It will continue to function, but an internal seal can blow allowing oil to leak straight through it. It dumps directly on top of the filter. It's not a frequent failure but it does happen. Pay special attention to this. Hose it off with brake cleaner, start the truck, then run back over and look. One of the ones I replaced only leaked for a few seconds after the truck was started, then it would stop leaking. This behavior made it hard to identify.
As far as the pan gasket is concerned: whenever there is a crease (like between the pan and block) oil will happily travel along the crease, sometimes relatively great distances. Capillary action. It's too early to condemn the pan gasket. Gotta fix the active leak first.
Replacing a Hino oil pan gasket is pretty easy because nothing is in the way. The hardest, most time consuming part is getting the god-forsaken gasket off of the pan. It gets so freaking stuck that a regular scraper is useless. It's a half hour job or more to hammer a gasket scraper around and chisel it off. Someone at the shop bought a pneumatic gasket scraper tool just for this single job. Pain in the ass.
Don_vincentio
Seasoned Expediter
What exactly is this circuit breaker for? Is it in the right position? Should the black test tab be down or up the way it is?
Don_vincentio
Seasoned Expediter
Brake light came back on for the aux brake motor, beeps every second, this time it happened while the truck was having the Seal done on it, had the mechanic look at it, did his own testing, getting 13 volts when truck is off then about 3 when its on and still not sure what the exact problem is.
You da man. Even with the pics I had to hold my tongue right and get a brighter flashlight. Never would have found it otherwise (can only see from below with all the other crap around mine). And definitely next time you're in Northern Alberta a thick hunk of rare Alberta beef and a pail of beer is on me.
Finally, someone offers me a steak!
The upper section of the link is arguably more important because it's much hotter there. If you can see the center section of the turbo from the top, the top link is about an inch toward the engine, and an inch down, approximately. A couple-second burst with a spray can of nickel antiseize around this area will probably get it. At $40 a can though, don't want to waste it.
That price is completely reasonable especially if you're keeping the truck for a while. If anything comes off of the exhaust side, put that stuff on the threads. If it ever has to come off again, you'll be patting yourself on the back. It makes future disassembly much easier.
It's useful on all big truck's exhaust system parts.
Search this thread for dirty radiator fins.
Don_vincentio
Seasoned Expediter
Beautiful new problems on my 258. Rained pretty good today for a good hour at that time the truck was parked, had to to go out after the rain and abs was on blinked 4-4 rear driver sensor which was cleaned and is good, finally went away after it rained again pretty hard for an hour and testing all the fuses, then the check engine came on codes are
P240f
reductant system perform and bank 1
P0562
System voltage low
P068a
ecm/pcm power relay de energized performance too early
w
P240f
reductant system perform and bank 1
P0562
System voltage low
P068a
ecm/pcm power relay de energized performance too early
What condition are your batteries? All of these things can be set from low voltage, including a battery disconnect too soon after turning off the ignition.Beautiful new problems on my 258. Rained pretty good today for a good hour at that time the truck was parked, had to to go out after the rain and abs was on blinked 4-4 rear driver sensor which was cleaned and is good, finally went away after it rained again pretty hard for an hour and testing all the fuses, then the check engine came on codes are
P240f
reductant system perform and bank 1
P0562
System voltage low
P068a
ecm/pcm power relay de energized performance too early
w
Ground wires, in particular, can give numerous problems. With that said, I think you have a different issue. The codes you are showing me look like those from the ECU, but not the DCU (dosing control unit).
What are you using to pull these fault codes? P204F indicates an SCR malfunction, but those codes are stored within the DCU. P204F can't be reset without addressing the DCU's codes.
If you are somehow able to connect to the DCU (not possible without Hino software, afaik), and there's truly nothing stored inside, then it's almost always a ground fault. This means there is an actual problem with the SCR system, but it wasn't communicated correctly between those two modules.
Don_vincentio
Seasoned Expediter
The batteries seem pretty fine to me, I haven't hooked up a tester on them yet. But without the tester no issue till after heavy rain fall
I used a actron scanner just to see why the check engine Is on, I reset it today and all that came on was the low voltage. Reset it again and voltage and the scr malfuntion.
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