Ah yes, the alternator would be easier. While I have the rad off etc I'd like to lube this vnt linkage that has been mentioned multiple times. A buddy and I have looked around the turbo from the top, bottom, side and be damned if we can see anything that looks like "linkage". Is there something else I have to remove to get at it or any other help you can give to locate it?
Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.
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Don_vincentio
Seasoned Expediter
Parked the truck turned it off, and I smelled something odd, hopped out when I see smoke coming from the drivers side front wheel, not sure if brake fluid is leaking onto the rotor from a line or what's going on here. Got these pics of the inside near the rotor, what do you think is going on here?
Stand on the tire and look down behind the turbo.
Is the odd smell a strong one, like sulfur? Does it stink like gear oil? If so, you've blown a wheel seal. That's a DOT violation and a huge safety hazard so you'll want to address it immediately. It's got a Meritor axle, you don't need to go to the Hino dealer, any diesel truck repair shop can repair this.
I like my steaks extra rare.
Don_vincentio
Seasoned Expediter
I'm taking a wild guess but more of the gear oil smell, also some sort of noise from time to time when I brake, not sure though if it's coming from it or from the rear, the noise is usually at very slow speeds, under 10mph
You need to get the truck in the air and have the endplay on all your wheel bearings checked, and the brakes inspected. Bearing looseness or failure is often indicated by a blown wheel seal. Excessive endplay also means that the rotor is interacting with the brake pads in ways that weren't intended.
There is a TSB out there on outer wheel bearing locknut torque. Whoever fixes it needs to be aware that 450 lb/ft is a little too high.
Don_vincentio
Seasoned Expediter
Brakes where recently changed, under 2 months, I'll have someone take a look at it, I was trying to keep it going for another week when my next truck drops so I can put this truck in service for an oil change and alignment, guess I'm going to have to start all that early with a little additional things that may be needed I'm guessing it is the seal, do you think it's safe to drive for a few days till next Monday when mechanics reopen and the dealership opens so I can get the seals? Or should I just them from any parts store and call it a night?The excessive end play is very minimal, doesn't happen everyday maybe once or twice a week that I hear the noise.
What would you suggest the locknut be torqued at?
That doesn't mean the bearing adjustment is correct.
No.
It doesn't really matter what brand of seal you use, IMO.
Endplay is measured with the brake pads pushed off of the rotor, the drive axle out (if checking the rear), and a dial indicator measuring in and out movement. Up front you're allowed 0.001-0.004 inches, in the rear 0.003-0.005. If you're hearing random noises and it's because of the wheel bearings, then the clearances are much greater than a few thousandths of an inch.
That depends on which axle it has, exactly. The easiest way to tell is the size of the axle lock nut, but you'd have to take the hub cap off.
Thank you so much for the help. Stay greasy!
Fingernails: permanently dirty.
Ugh when I did my front brakes I re greased the bearings and when I tightened the lock nut I just snugged it to the point where there was no play, guess I have to go back and tighten it more....
It's extremely important that some endplay is verified after the locknut is tightened. Tightening it reduces endplay.
The old school way to do it is to tighten the inner nut to 100 ft lbs, then back it off 1/3rd of a turn, then tighten the lock nut. This gets you pretty close, but when the target is a couple thousandths of an inch, im only comfortable by confirming that with a dial indicator on a magnetic base..
Anyone with a 145, 165, 185 needs to pay special attention to this advice. Getting the adjustment too tight is a great way to ruin the hub, bearings, and spindles. Ive replaced a few spindles for this reason.
Hmmm, there is only one nut on mine, with a metal ring that you bend down on the nut to lock it in place. I should mention mine are not the kind that have oil in them, just grease.
My brakes have been sqealing at low speeds and on occasion had the ABS light come on with air gap codes. I was wondering if the 2 were connected and if the bearings were going bad, maybe that is causing both?????
Loose wheel bearings and excessive endplay are very often the cause of air gap codes. The hub/rotor are moving enough to push the wheel speed sensors out an excessive distance.
This is the style of dial indicator I use for checking wheel bearings. A simple one on a magnetic base. I keep the good ones hidden away. If someone needs to borrow it and they
it up, I don't have to kidnap their pets for ransom while a replacement arrives. http://www.amazon.com/Dial-Indicator-Magnetic-Base-Point/dp/B002YPHT76
This one doesn't get lent to anyone. It stays at home unless I have a good reason to bring it out.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008IHTL/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
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