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Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.

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proda

New Recruit
the truck has 3 starting batteries and 2 liftgate batteries. the techs did say that the wiring for the lift gate batteries looked like it was not done correctly. they are going to go over it(and are doing so now) so hopefully i will hear back tomorrow.
 
greasytshirt

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Don_vincentio said:
D type is what's on it, sensor is just a plug and play without special tools needed correct?
Click to expand...
Correct.

Before you spend a dime, there's a simple way to narrow down the fault to the sensor or the harness.
Check the resistance of the sensor. Then check the resistance of the other sensor and compare them. If there isn't much of a difference, swap the sensors. If the problem moves to the other side, replace that sensor. If it doesn't, it's the harness. Or the ABS ecm. Or some funky electrical problem, like bad grounds or an alternator belting out A/C current.

Or like one truck where someone tapped into the wheel speed sensor wiring while wiring up turn signals. The abs light came on whenever he signaled for a left turn. That was fun.
 
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Don_vincentio

Seasoned Expediter
greasytshirt said:
Correct.

Before you spend a dime, there's a simple way to narrow down the fault to the sensor or the harness.
Check the resistance of the sensor. Then check the resistance of the other sensor and compare them. If there isn't much of a difference, swap the sensors. If the problem moves to the other side, replace that sensor. If it doesn't, it's the harness. Or the ABS ecm. Or some funky electrical problem, like bad grounds or an alternator belting out A/C current.
Click to expand...
You're going to love this, I lifted my bed up, unplugged the sensor, plugged it back in and I was able to do a reset on the abs not the abs light is gone, but still have the beautiful brake light that will disappear by morning on its own, I already have a sensor, I'm just going to have it keep sitting for now, or may send it back in the morning before the 30 day return hits
 
greasytshirt

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
proda said:
the truck has 3 starting batteries and 2 liftgate batteries. the techs did say that the wiring for the lift gate batteries looked like it was not done correctly. they are going to go over it(and are doing so now) so hopefully i will hear back tomorrow.
Click to expand...
That's a hell of a lot of batteries. Unless you're running a ton of other electrical stuff, you only need three.
 
greasytshirt

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Don_vincentio said:
You're going to love this, I lifted my bed up, unplugged the sensor, plugged it back in and I was able to do a reset on the abs not the abs light is gone, but still have the beautiful brake light that will disappear by morning on its own, I already have a sensor, I'm just going to have it keep sitting for now, or may send it back in the morning before the 30 day return hits
Click to expand...
So it's a rollback, huh? These get the crap kicked out of them. I'm not really surprised; rollbacks have the best electrical problems ever.

Putting a ground strap across the hinge (from the bed to the frame) has solved more than one electrical problem, especially when bed lighting comes into play. In some cases, LED lights can cause issues too.
 
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Don_vincentio

Seasoned Expediter
greasytshirt said:
So it's a rollback, huh? These get the crap kicked out of them. I'm not really surprised; rollbacks have the best electrical problems ever.

Putting a ground strap across the hinge (from the bed to the frame) has solved more than one electrical problem, especially when bed lighting comes into play. In some cases, LED lights can cause issues too.
Click to expand...
Yup, I see the electrical issues are starting to piss me off on it.

Problem is that the bed doesn't have many lights on it, 3 side markets in each side and that's all, and 4 led work lights, I'll look at getting some cable and grounding it somewhere. Just have to find the right spot where it won't break off as it extends and pivots.
 
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MrElectric03

New Recruit
I've got one for you. My 06 Hino 268 is being replaced by a 2014 268A. It has a service body with pto operated crane and compressor. It's not idling up when I turn on the compressor.

So I need to either figure out how to program the truck to idle up with the pto or I could swap the throttle knob from the 06 to the 14 if that's possible.
 
greasytshirt

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
MrElectric03 said:
I've got one for you. My 06 Hino 268 is being replaced by a 2014 268A. It has a service body with pto operated crane and compressor. It's not idling up when I turn on the compressor.

So I need to either figure out how to program the truck to idle up with the pto or I could swap the throttle knob from the 06 to the 14 if that's possible.
Click to expand...
The pto switch is supposed to be attached to an ecu input, then certain parameters selected using the diagnostic software. Any other method is inferior.
 
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igor

Rookie Expediter
greasytshirt said:
This is exactly the kind of reply I like to see.

The problem of low power during regen remains.

Good:
The exhaust brake is more or less set correctly.
The injectors are good. Low rpm delta, good injection quantity.
The intake throttle valve has been modified.

Bad: The loose pipe between the MAF sensor and turbo. It's been sucking in dirt, hasn't it?
Soot in tailpipe.

Unusual: DPR inlet temp higher than outlet.

So, we're looking at an airflow problem. Usually this is caused by the ITV sticking shut, but the modifications pretty much cure that.

There are several things to do.
I would want to know the intake air pressure during an auto regen. I live near sea level and I generally see between 30-35 psi absolute (atmospheric pressure plus boost pressure).
If that is low (and I suspect it is), I'd remove the turbo intake piping and check the shaft for radial and axial endplay. I'd also check the compressor wheel for FOD.
Check the intake air pressure sensor sensor pipe and tube for blockage.
Clean the mass airflow sensor.
Remove the dpf and inspect the inlet and outlet for damage. You'll know it when you see it.
Click to expand...
We finally got back to this 2008 338 with lack of power issue.
Took dpr a part. The filter has some weird damage on outlet side. It's like a thin crack alone its outline. And also you can see some small melted particles
I don't have a good closeup picture, but here's some:imagejpeg_2_2.jpg
We replaced it with the used one from another truck, that is waiting for major repair.
problem still exists - a bit low power, and very low during regen
We cleaned air pressure sensor, turbo seems to be ok, have sprayed thst nickel antiseeze in it
Not sure which "compressor wheel" you mentioned that is related to turbo. Is that a main air compressor that's attached to a flywheel?
also, wondering how ecu(or bcu) is monitoring regen process. Does it go buy inlet and outlet temp only? flow resistance? what happens if one will drill a hole through the filter?
I could only monitor intake air flow (our dx will not connect to Bcu to track boost pressure(if I am not mistaken its found in bcu)
so it is around 90 (86-109) while driving on auto regen
And around 180 (170-200) when its off
Also, p0400 active code appeared again. It was active and disappeared possibly after egr was taken off and cleaned.
we are going to replace egr valve solenoid tomorrow and see what happens.
 
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igor

Rookie Expediter
I should probably mention earlier that we cleaned egr. It had some soot there.
Thanks again for all your suggestions
 
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