Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.
- Thread starter greasytshirt
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- 2016 hino
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Ok.
So the DPF heating is done via a burner. It's the big combustion chamber in front of the DPF. In the front of it are an atomizer nozzle, two spark plugs (igniters), and a flame temp sensor. Above the nozzle and igniters is a big braided tube, which provides air for combustion. There are a lot of reasons for the burner to lose flame, especially when the injectors in the engine start to degrade (and soot output increases).
Most of this will be done using DX with Hino Bowie/Nexiq/Denso DST-i. Using DX, you will spend most of the time in the BCU.
First, go to the ECU, to system protection data and record the MAX DPF inlet and outlet temps. Then in the ECU customization menu, find the AMOUNT OF PM PILING UP (or PM amount). This is a theoretical calculation of PM (particulate matter) trapped in the DPF. If this number is over 12, the DPF will have to be removed and take a trip through a DPF cleaning oven first. Otherwise, it will either melt or the soot will not completely burn off. If the Max outlet temp is over 1485F, or there is soot in the tailpipe, the DPF needs to be removed and inspected for melting. A trip through an oven that can also measure flow through the DPF before and after cleaning will be helpful. If there is insufficient flow after cleaning, it's damaged internally and needs to be replaced.
While still connected to the ECU, go to the engine customization menus and find the PM AMOUNT line again and change it to 2.5. Fleet versions of DX leave out the customization menus, and that's a pain in the butt.
Now go to the BCU->data Monitor. Monitor the following, in this order.
Engine speed
Engine Torque
Exhaust gas temp (burner inlet)
Flame temp
Exhaust gas temp (burner outlet)
Target exhaust gas temp (burner outlet)
Atomizer air pressure
Atomizer fuel pressure
Nozzle pressure
Burner state (it's called something slightly different in DX, this is what DXII calls it).
Turn the key on,don't start. Start monitoring. The nozzle pressure should be around zero. Fuel pressure zero. Air pressure should be pressure in air tank. Start engine. Nozzle pressure should initially be under 8 psi. It's going to attempt to light the burner (if the SCR catalyst is cold), so just watch for a few minutes. You'll know when this is about to happen when the target exhaust gas temp goes from 32F to whatever the actual burner outlet temp is. During this time, the burner fuel pump kicks on. it generally hangs out around 90 psi, I think.
If you've chosen the correct parameter for Burner State, it'll tell you what it's doing. Check igniters, igniter cleaning, operating (ramp up), operation, etc.
When it is preparing to fire the burner, the nozzle pressure will jump to 40-45psi. When it fires the burner, it'll go to 45-50 psi, generally speaking. It could go as high as 52-53 without problem. If all of these pressures I've mentioned are a lot lower than what you're seeing, then the nozzle is plugged, the tiny stainless braided line is kinked internally (always use a backing wrench when removing and installing), or the atomizer module has failed. It's almost always the nozzle. There is no good way to clean it. Sometimes an ultrasonic cleaner can break up the carbon, sometimes not. Don't even bother trying to stick wires in the holes of the nozzle. Not gonna happen.
If it actually fires off, flame temp will quickly rise to over a thousand degrees, then taper up to around 1400-1700 degrees. usually in the 1650 area. It'll slowly rise as the regen progresses.
Since we're just watching the burner do an scr warmup, the target outlet temp will only go to 750. During a regen, it'll go to 1030, 1041 with the latest burner update.
Chances are, this is not what you'll see the flame temp doing. It'll either do nothing, rise slow then drop as the BCU recognizes a failure to rise in temp, or it'll start climbing rapidly then just stop, lost flame event.
take off right front fender. Remove the tiny braided line from the nozzle. Remove the nozzle. remove the plug wires. Ohm the igniters. Should be infinite resistance. If not, remove them and clean them. They will be filthy. Use brake cleaner and a rag. Ohm again. if resistance is not infinite, replace them. Put them back in, put the plug wires back on. Go to activation test (still in the BCU), turn on ignition coil. Look inside the hole where the nozzle was. You should see ten minutes worth of uninterrupted, strong spark. If not, are the plug wires good? Insulation damaged? Replace them if messed up. If still no spark, get the connector off of the coil and look for water/corrosion inside. The coils do fail occasionally, and water sometimes intrudes past the connector. But rarely.
Once you've established spark, go back to your notes on the nozzle pressure. If that was fine, reinstall nozzle and tiny braided line, carefully. No kinks. If not, replace nozzle. Go to activation test, turn on atomization master air valve. Pretty sure. Nozzle pressure should go up, but be under 8psi. If over 8, undo braided line from nozzle. if it's in spec, replace nozzle. If not, put line back on nozzle and take it off of the atomizer module. In spec now? Repace braided line. If not, sorry, replace atomizer module.
Once you have spark and fuel, take the big braided line off of the fitting at the top. Unplug flame temp sensor (the sensor alongside the igniters and nozzle. This will stop the burner from lighting and blowing flames out of the big braided line. Start engine. Activation test, turn on and off combustion air valve. You need a helper. someone has to turn the CAV on and off while the other feels for airflow at the fitting that the braided line was screwed to (not the braided line itself). It's not a lot, it feels like you are blowing lightly into your hand. with the cav off, no air should come out. With it on, air should come out. Verify this 30 times. CAV on = air, CAV off = no air. If this isn't right, replace the CAV.
Now you have air, fuel and spark. Pull the flame temp sensor out. If the tip is partially eroded away, you might want to replace it. If you have found absolutely no problems so far, replace it. Testing it is problematic, it'll test good then go screwy halfway through a regen. Chances are, you found a problem elsewhere.
Back to that list of stuff posted earlier. start engine. Start data monitor. if you were able to change the PM amount to 2.5, the dpr graph will show three bars. Three bars means you can manually regen. Push the regen button on the dash. Let it run until it's done, whether it works or not. Stop recording and save it as a .txt file. Save it to the desktop so you can find it. Then email it to me.
So the DPF heating is done via a burner. It's the big combustion chamber in front of the DPF. In the front of it are an atomizer nozzle, two spark plugs (igniters), and a flame temp sensor. Above the nozzle and igniters is a big braided tube, which provides air for combustion. There are a lot of reasons for the burner to lose flame, especially when the injectors in the engine start to degrade (and soot output increases).
Most of this will be done using DX with Hino Bowie/Nexiq/Denso DST-i. Using DX, you will spend most of the time in the BCU.
First, go to the ECU, to system protection data and record the MAX DPF inlet and outlet temps. Then in the ECU customization menu, find the AMOUNT OF PM PILING UP (or PM amount). This is a theoretical calculation of PM (particulate matter) trapped in the DPF. If this number is over 12, the DPF will have to be removed and take a trip through a DPF cleaning oven first. Otherwise, it will either melt or the soot will not completely burn off. If the Max outlet temp is over 1485F, or there is soot in the tailpipe, the DPF needs to be removed and inspected for melting. A trip through an oven that can also measure flow through the DPF before and after cleaning will be helpful. If there is insufficient flow after cleaning, it's damaged internally and needs to be replaced.
While still connected to the ECU, go to the engine customization menus and find the PM AMOUNT line again and change it to 2.5. Fleet versions of DX leave out the customization menus, and that's a pain in the butt.
Now go to the BCU->data Monitor. Monitor the following, in this order.
Engine speed
Engine Torque
Exhaust gas temp (burner inlet)
Flame temp
Exhaust gas temp (burner outlet)
Target exhaust gas temp (burner outlet)
Atomizer air pressure
Atomizer fuel pressure
Nozzle pressure
Burner state (it's called something slightly different in DX, this is what DXII calls it).
Turn the key on,don't start. Start monitoring. The nozzle pressure should be around zero. Fuel pressure zero. Air pressure should be pressure in air tank. Start engine. Nozzle pressure should initially be under 8 psi. It's going to attempt to light the burner (if the SCR catalyst is cold), so just watch for a few minutes. You'll know when this is about to happen when the target exhaust gas temp goes from 32F to whatever the actual burner outlet temp is. During this time, the burner fuel pump kicks on. it generally hangs out around 90 psi, I think.
If you've chosen the correct parameter for Burner State, it'll tell you what it's doing. Check igniters, igniter cleaning, operating (ramp up), operation, etc.
When it is preparing to fire the burner, the nozzle pressure will jump to 40-45psi. When it fires the burner, it'll go to 45-50 psi, generally speaking. It could go as high as 52-53 without problem. If all of these pressures I've mentioned are a lot lower than what you're seeing, then the nozzle is plugged, the tiny stainless braided line is kinked internally (always use a backing wrench when removing and installing), or the atomizer module has failed. It's almost always the nozzle. There is no good way to clean it. Sometimes an ultrasonic cleaner can break up the carbon, sometimes not. Don't even bother trying to stick wires in the holes of the nozzle. Not gonna happen.
If it actually fires off, flame temp will quickly rise to over a thousand degrees, then taper up to around 1400-1700 degrees. usually in the 1650 area. It'll slowly rise as the regen progresses.
Since we're just watching the burner do an scr warmup, the target outlet temp will only go to 750. During a regen, it'll go to 1030, 1041 with the latest burner update.
Chances are, this is not what you'll see the flame temp doing. It'll either do nothing, rise slow then drop as the BCU recognizes a failure to rise in temp, or it'll start climbing rapidly then just stop, lost flame event.
take off right front fender. Remove the tiny braided line from the nozzle. Remove the nozzle. remove the plug wires. Ohm the igniters. Should be infinite resistance. If not, remove them and clean them. They will be filthy. Use brake cleaner and a rag. Ohm again. if resistance is not infinite, replace them. Put them back in, put the plug wires back on. Go to activation test (still in the BCU), turn on ignition coil. Look inside the hole where the nozzle was. You should see ten minutes worth of uninterrupted, strong spark. If not, are the plug wires good? Insulation damaged? Replace them if messed up. If still no spark, get the connector off of the coil and look for water/corrosion inside. The coils do fail occasionally, and water sometimes intrudes past the connector. But rarely.
Once you've established spark, go back to your notes on the nozzle pressure. If that was fine, reinstall nozzle and tiny braided line, carefully. No kinks. If not, replace nozzle. Go to activation test, turn on atomization master air valve. Pretty sure. Nozzle pressure should go up, but be under 8psi. If over 8, undo braided line from nozzle. if it's in spec, replace nozzle. If not, put line back on nozzle and take it off of the atomizer module. In spec now? Repace braided line. If not, sorry, replace atomizer module.
Once you have spark and fuel, take the big braided line off of the fitting at the top. Unplug flame temp sensor (the sensor alongside the igniters and nozzle. This will stop the burner from lighting and blowing flames out of the big braided line. Start engine. Activation test, turn on and off combustion air valve. You need a helper. someone has to turn the CAV on and off while the other feels for airflow at the fitting that the braided line was screwed to (not the braided line itself). It's not a lot, it feels like you are blowing lightly into your hand. with the cav off, no air should come out. With it on, air should come out. Verify this 30 times. CAV on = air, CAV off = no air. If this isn't right, replace the CAV.
Now you have air, fuel and spark. Pull the flame temp sensor out. If the tip is partially eroded away, you might want to replace it. If you have found absolutely no problems so far, replace it. Testing it is problematic, it'll test good then go screwy halfway through a regen. Chances are, you found a problem elsewhere.
Back to that list of stuff posted earlier. start engine. Start data monitor. if you were able to change the PM amount to 2.5, the dpr graph will show three bars. Three bars means you can manually regen. Push the regen button on the dash. Let it run until it's done, whether it works or not. Stop recording and save it as a .txt file. Save it to the desktop so you can find it. Then email it to me.
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This is the high points of troubleshooting code P2030, burner abnormality. What I just talked about covers around 80% of scenarios. Things get weird when the mantle in the combustion chamber breaks, when the DPF slides out of its casing and crashes into the oxidation catalyst, when the turbo has failed and not enough air goes through the engine while driving and the dpf inlet temp is screaming hot, or the DPF is so clogged that exhaust gas can't pass through it.
rhitrucking
Active Expediter
How on earth does one get the Starter off? Where and how to get to the hidden bolt?
It comes out of the transmission side. And there are several next to it. Right next to bottom power steering pump bolt is.
I accidentally a word. Its next to the power steering pump's bottom bolt.
floridawheels
Active Expediter
2007 Hino 338
I have had considerable issues with serious loss of power and VERY rough running. I'll skip all the intimate details of the process to fix it but I will say that as a result of going to 3 different Hino dealers and listening to their certified techs I have installed a new turbo and changed my steel fuel tanks to aluminum.
Instead of spending about $1,800 to buy two 50 gallon aluminum Hino tanks, (or about $4,000 to get 95 gallon aluminum Hino tanks) I have installed a 150 aluminum tank I got from a truck salvage yard, ($150.00). Since I have previously removed the cargo box from the back of the truck and have a 5th wheel for trailer towing I installed the tank across the frame rails behind the sleeper. After running new fuel supply and return lines and a new filter came the test drive.
The problem remained.
A good friend of mine and lifelong trucker came along for the test ride. We pulled into a safe area and he had me crack each of the lines that came from (forgive me if I use the wrong terminology for these parts..) the fuel rail and goes to the injectors with the truck running. From front to rear. Each one had fuel spraying from the fitting and immediately the truck ran like crap or shut off before I could get it closed again. All except for the last one. No fuel came out at all and no change in engine running. Even with the line completely disconnected, no fuel, not even a drip.
There is a part that goes into the fuel rail and the line is attached to that part. (WHAT IS THE NAME OF THIS PART?) We removed it and found no moving parts and no air would pass through it. After messing with it for awhile we got the center part to spin and go in and out. and... air passed through it. We re-installed this part and cranked the truck and immediately fuel sprayed out.
After connecting the line and starting the truck it immediately ran nice and smooth. The test drive was good and it appears we have fixed the issue.
So,what is this part we removed and made work and what it is supposed to do / how is it supposed to work? Do I need to remove the other 5 and check/clean them as well?
Last question; I want to get the fuel level gauge working again with my new tank. What ohm reading range is the factory gauge set up for?
(Note: After 3 visits to Hino dealers and close to $5,000 in Hino labor, new turbo, numerous fuel filters, eliminating the factory steel fuel tanks and at least 3 times been hooked up to a Hino computer it looks like we may have fixed it on our own.... Sigh...)
I really wish you lived closer...
I have had considerable issues with serious loss of power and VERY rough running. I'll skip all the intimate details of the process to fix it but I will say that as a result of going to 3 different Hino dealers and listening to their certified techs I have installed a new turbo and changed my steel fuel tanks to aluminum.
Instead of spending about $1,800 to buy two 50 gallon aluminum Hino tanks, (or about $4,000 to get 95 gallon aluminum Hino tanks) I have installed a 150 aluminum tank I got from a truck salvage yard, ($150.00). Since I have previously removed the cargo box from the back of the truck and have a 5th wheel for trailer towing I installed the tank across the frame rails behind the sleeper. After running new fuel supply and return lines and a new filter came the test drive.
The problem remained.
A good friend of mine and lifelong trucker came along for the test ride. We pulled into a safe area and he had me crack each of the lines that came from (forgive me if I use the wrong terminology for these parts..) the fuel rail and goes to the injectors with the truck running. From front to rear. Each one had fuel spraying from the fitting and immediately the truck ran like crap or shut off before I could get it closed again. All except for the last one. No fuel came out at all and no change in engine running. Even with the line completely disconnected, no fuel, not even a drip.
There is a part that goes into the fuel rail and the line is attached to that part. (WHAT IS THE NAME OF THIS PART?) We removed it and found no moving parts and no air would pass through it. After messing with it for awhile we got the center part to spin and go in and out. and... air passed through it. We re-installed this part and cranked the truck and immediately fuel sprayed out.
After connecting the line and starting the truck it immediately ran nice and smooth. The test drive was good and it appears we have fixed the issue.
So,what is this part we removed and made work and what it is supposed to do / how is it supposed to work? Do I need to remove the other 5 and check/clean them as well?
Last question; I want to get the fuel level gauge working again with my new tank. What ohm reading range is the factory gauge set up for?
(Note: After 3 visits to Hino dealers and close to $5,000 in Hino labor, new turbo, numerous fuel filters, eliminating the factory steel fuel tanks and at least 3 times been hooked up to a Hino computer it looks like we may have fixed it on our own.... Sigh...)
I really wish you lived closer...
It's called a flow dampener. Congrats, youre the first person to have one fail. That ive heard of, anyway. You can try to clean them out. If that doesnt work...idk if theyre available separate or not. They may suggest a whole new rail. If so, I can hook you up. One off of an isuzu npr will probably work too.
floridawheels
Active Expediter
Not yet. We are slammed.
I am sorry. I misread what you posted. That is not a flow dampener. That is the rail pressure limiter. It protects stuff from large pressure spikes. It pops off at around 29,000 psi (don't get any body parts near it!!!).
Generally, it does nothing for it's whole life. When there is a problem, it will pop off. It doesn't like popping. If it happens enough times, it will start to leak.
In any case, you have pressure spikes. The SCV is the prime suspect. If it loses connection, either by internal fault or from loose or corroded terminals in the connector, the rail pressure maxes out, 100%.
Unplug the SCV connector. I've seen them get a little loose, and the terminals start to walk around, and a dust forms inside. If you see this or any other evidence of anything other than a good connection, replace the terminal body and both wire pigtails. Use butt connectors with waterproof heat shrink.
If that doesn't fix it, replace the SCV.
The SCV is the ~2" silver-colored cylinder on the top front of the fuel pump.
Im working on my 07 Hino and my A/C compression doesn't work and the blower is on a low speed. I already replaced the resistor and the control that is in the dash, I checked the fuses and relays. I also wanted to know if the truck had a A/C computer.
The blower switch is known to burn out, and it will melt the harness connector too. If this has happened, the connector body and any damaged terminals must be replaced or the new switch will fry.
If this has occured, replace the blower motor. It looks like it just unbolts and slides out, but it won't. Remove the box it sits in. The bolts run through the bellhousing.
Does it have a sufficient refrigerant charge? If not, the low pressure switch will not allow the compressor to come on.
Is there voltage at the compresser clutch? If yes, the clutch has failed or has a poor ground. If not, check for sufficient charge and pressure switch operation.
There is no computer. It's a pure and simple system using a txv and reciever dryer. No orifice tube or accumulator.
I
ivan
Guest
hello my friends i would like to asked you about color of fuel wire of hino truck. thanks
Wire connected to which device exactly? What's the year and model?
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walemurphsprin
Rookie Expediter
just to update we sent this unit to the local dealer and they replaced the BCU
I condemned an atomizer module this morning for a subtle error. I've yet to replace the bcu computer on one.
grape grower
Rookie Expediter
I have a simular problem as Magnum66, working on a 2009 338, cannot get the AC or Fan running. Just got ito some hot days in the Pacific Northwest, guy's would like to have some cool air. Got ahold of the electrical schematics, fan dose not turn in heat or cool mode? Relays are activating, fan motor has some resistance (200 ohms) fan will not turn? Any help would be appriciated. Cheers
Last time we talked, your engine blew up. What's the story?
Id pull the blower switch out and see if the contacts are melted.
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