I remembered some details!
The link you posted is the system protection data. It shows maximum DPF temps. Inlet is lower than outlet, which is good (there's not an airflow problem through the engine). DPF outlet is getting pretty high. This could be from some injector degradation. However, the truck still should have regen'd automatically, and it should have been able to successfully manually regen.
The following applies to 2008-2010 trucks only.
Without being able to see soot amount, the following advise is at your own risk, ok? First, is there a lot of soot in the tailpipe? If so, the DPF is already damaged, so might as well do some experiments on it. If not, remove it and blow a ton of compressed air through it, rear to front. Don't breathe the soot. Expect an impressive cloud. If you remove it and it's burst like a tick, well, you need a new one. And since the thing had the recall done on it, you MIGHT be able to get parts warranty on it if it is damaged.
Now that we've theoretically removed some excess soot, and the DPF appears undamaged (hopefully), start the truck, warm it up completely, set rpm to 980. Using data monitor, record injection quantity. Turn on exhaust brake. IQ should go up 12mm3 higher. If it's too high (frequent issue), adjust the stopper bolt that the brake contacts when the brake is on. Leave the other one alone. Back bolt out to lower injection quantity.
Shut off engine. Turn key to ON position.
Go into system protection data and reset DPF inlet and outlet max temps.
Clear codes. If P2002 won't go away, go to activation test menu (the one where you can set engine rpm and turn injectors on and off), and select RELEASE REPEAT OFFENSE. This will allow a hard set code to go away. Clear codes again.
At this point, I'd generally go to the ecu customization menu, change pm amount to 3 (which makes the truck demand a manual regen) and then I can go into Data Monitor and look at the parameters that I want to look at. Since you haven't discovered that option yet (this program is confusing) or it doesn't exist on your version (fleet version???), the only option you have is to use the DPR Check function.
NOTE: if this is an actual problem with whatever versions of Hino DX are available to the public, fixing an 11-14 conventional with a burner issue is going to be extremely frustrating.
Go to DPR Check. Click start test, then hit CLEAR DPR HISTORY. This should reset the DPR graph to zero bars. Start the engine.
Select MANUAL REGENERATION. Push the regen button on the dash. The rpm will rise to 980. The exhaust brake will close. The injection quantity will rise. It will rise higher than the total injection quantity that you calculated earlier by a few numbers (to take into account the post injection that's putting fuel into the oxidation catalyst, which sits directly in front of the DPF (they share the same canister). Once the DPR inlet temp hits 400 degrees, the DOC lights off, and temps start climbing fairly rapidly. The inlet temp will first overshoot (to maybe 1100 or so), then settle down to around 1030. Watch the outlet temp. It'll lag behind inlet temp for a while, then start rising. When the DPF is clean, it rarely goes over 1000 degrees. If it's soot loaded, it'll continue going up in temp. Sometimes startlingly quickly. If you see it really ramping up super fast and it shoots past 1300, hit stop test (or turn off the engine). If this happens, restart the engine and let it idle for a few minutes and try it again. A slow climb up past 1200, maybe into the 1300 range is ok. It may run for quite a few minutes. It may have a light colored smoke come out of the tailpipe, which is normal. The differential pressure may be 4-5, but it should gradually decrease to around 1 or less. You may have to regen it like this a few times. Go back to system protection data, see what the DPR inlet and outlet max temps are now. Outlet should be below 1485, preferably a few hundred degrees below that.
IDK if the version of DX you have will allow you to change the PM calculated amount in the ecu or not. If not, this will be difficult to accomplish. The next step is to monitor DPF inlet and outlet temps, boost pressure, mass airflow, ITV command and actual (%), DPR differential pressure During an automatic regen. The temps will go higher, but outlet should be hotter than inlet (if there's soot left to burn, anyway). Setting the PM amount to 2.5 will put the DPR graph at 3 bars, and it will start to do an automatic regen almost immediately after you start driving. Yes, the laptop you have DX installed on needs to ride too, preferably by you while someone else drives. The battery needs to last for at least half an hour. The exhaust brake should be left off all the time, except for when it's needed.
This would be a heck of a lot easier to demonstrate in person. I should make a youtube video or something.
