Don_vincentio
Seasoned Expediter
I've got a 2012 so I should be good there hopefully.It stopped being supported sometime in 2013. I doubt it will work on 2015- up trucks (I don't know). 2014 MY not sure. It did work on the 2013 COEs.
I've got a 2012 so I should be good there hopefully.It stopped being supported sometime in 2013. I doubt it will work on 2015- up trucks (I don't know). 2014 MY not sure. It did work on the 2013 COEs.
Haven't played much with it, I bought a laptop to use it on, and within an hour had a virus on it from a program I downloaded, this laptops going back after I get my other laptop working, and no lights to really diagnose on the truck, hopefully it stays like that.Have you figured out how to use it? There are some tricks, for sure.
The first thing you'll want to do is to figure out the backdoor way of triggering a regen. There's a function for checking the dpf by forcing a regen, but you can't see what the burner is doing when using this method. You'll have to find (it's been a while) the line under the engine ecu's customization menu for the volume of soot in the dpf, change that to a number that will allow you to push the button on the dash and start one, then go into the BCU's diagnostic menu to monitor several things.Haven't played much with it, I bought a laptop to use it on, and within an hour had a virus on it from a program I downloaded, this laptops going back after I get my other laptop working, and no lights to really diagnose on the truck, hopefully it stays like that.
I'll have to look into that when I get the software fully up and running, I was told about the software update when I bought the dpf injector a couple weeks ago, Haven't had it done yet. Knowing of the update, what are the chances the older dx software will still work after the update to the truck? I'm sure there's about two updates that need to be done if not more.The first thing you'll want to do is to figure out the backdoor way of triggering a regen. There's a function for checking the dpf by forcing a regen, but you can't see what the burner is doing when using this method. You'll have to find (it's been a while) the line under the engine ecu's customization menu for the volume of soot in the dpf, change that to a number that will allow you to push the button on the dash and start one, then go into the BCU's diagnostic menu to monitor several things.
If you can figure out how to do this, then you can monitor a regen via the BCU, then you can email me the .txt file, then I can graph it and post it so there's a visual representation of what's going on. This is super, super useful for troubleshooting and for catching problems before they bite you in the ass.
If it hasn't been done already, every 2011-2013 truck you have needs to have the BCU software updated to 25FA. This is covered under an emissions recall. The reliability of this system has improved by leaps and bounds simply by altering its behavior through computer reprogramming. Every time they put out new software, the trucks get better.
The updates will not affect the way the software functions. Then again, the version of DX (I don't remember any of these specifics) may affect some of its capabilities.I'll have to look into that when I get the software fully up and running, I was told about the software update when I bought the dpf injector a couple weeks ago, Haven't had it done yet. Knowing of the update, what are the chances the older dx software will still work after the update to the truck? I'm sure there's about two updates that need to be done if not more.
Haven't played much with it.
I really appreciate that, one thing I am is always determined, if I can do something myself why go to a dealer or someone and spend money with them if I can do the same thing with some research myself. I think I owe you a steak if you're ever in the Chicagoland area.I said on here before, if someone was determined enough to buy it and learn to use it, I would help with that. Since you have, pm me your email address.
I feel the same way, I'm determined to do everything myself. I'm teaching myself how to diagnose and fix my house's heat pump.I really appreciate that, one thing I am is always determined, if I can do something myself why go to a dealer or someone and spend money with them if I can do the same thing with some research myself. I think I owe you a steak if you're ever in the Chicagoland area.
You will eventually need advanced diagnostic software to successfully diagnose the truck. You're only able to see the NOx sensor codes because they communicate directly to the ecu vs the dosing control unit (dcu).Hey guys, new to the forums here. Lets get started...
I drive a 2012 Hino 258 tow truck (flatbed). It has 179k miles and is in decent shape.
When I took it over, the atomizer was in the process of being replaced.. and our mechanic got it all in working order with no check engine lights / service engine lights on, and the regen worked.
About a week after my purge valve on my air dryer was acting up, and the check engine light came on again. Purge valve got replaced, all was good again.. no lights, air leaks, etc..
Now to the point of this post. The company I work for, the mechanic is very skilled and knows what he is doing but does not have a scanner / computer or any technological equipment to diagnose the trucks.
So I went to Autozone and bought a $100 special, and got the code:
P2202 - NOx sensor circuit low Bank 1.
I'm anal about my equipment and I cannot stand the engine light being on, and knowing that there is something up with my truck.
Is this something that needs to be done by the dealer and reset, or is it as simple as replacing the sensor? I can't stand our authorized hino repair people where I'm at.. kind of assholes when it comes to helping.. and have to leave my truck for a week or so.
Our mechanic is everywhere with a few different trucks and if I can help get mine done without bugging him too much, easier for everyone.
I'm working on a model 236 hino. 08 ym. A month ago the truck had to have the DPR regenerated several times a week toward the end twice a day. I removed the DPR and had it cleaned at the local Kenworth dealer. It was fine for a month now were back to daily regens. No check engine light or codes. Any advise would be great.
Things that can cause automatic regen problems in 08-10 trucks (which you are experiencing):
Engine injectors have degraded (common)
Intake throttle valve sticking shut (are you also experiencing low power? Also common)
Turbocharger worn out or is passing a ton of oil through it (less common).
Engine ridiculously overfilled with oil. Much more common than one would think.
Things that can cause manual regen problems:
Everything above, plus the exhaust brake is out of adjustment.
There are other reasons, of course, but these things are the reason 80% of the time. At least half the time, injectors are the root cause of regen issues.
What you can do right now is modify the ITV. I describe how to do this in this thread. If it's worn out (sticks, has shaft play), replace it and modify the new one. This will solve some cases of low power during regen and a few other issues.
You will want to check and see if the A8440/A8510 recalls are open on your truck.
Is there black soot in your tailpipe? If so, the DPF is toast.
Things that can cause automatic regen problems in 08-10 trucks (which you are experiencing):
Engine injectors have degraded (common)
Intake throttle valve sticking shut (are you also experiencing low power? Also common)
Turbocharger worn out or is passing a ton of oil through it (less common).
Engine ridiculously overfilled with oil. Much more common than one would think.
Things that can cause manual regen problems:
Everything above, plus the exhaust brake is out of adjustment.
There are other reasons, of course, but these things are the reason 80% of the time. At least half the time, injectors are the root cause of regen issues.
What you can do right now is modify the ITV. I describe how to do this in this thread. If it's worn out (sticks, has shaft play), replace it and modify the new one. This will solve some cases of low power during regen and a few other issues.
You will want to check and see if the A8440/A8510 recalls are open on your truck.
Is there black soot in your tailpipe? If so, the DPF is toast.
Greasytshirt, I know you've told me block heaters aren't your thing, maybe you've seen this issue, I had my pops plug my Hino in after he parked it, and after plugging it in, it sparked from under the truck, as if it was short circuited, have you seen anything like this before?
hey there new to the group really very interested in learning more bout these hino whole new breed of truck to meThings that can cause automatic regen problems in 08-10 trucks (which you are experiencing):
Engine injectors have degraded (common)
Intake throttle valve sticking shut (are you also experiencing low power? Also common)
Turbocharger worn out or is passing a ton of oil through it (less common).
Engine ridiculously overfilled with oil. Much more common than one would think.
Things that can cause manual regen problems:
Everything above, plus the exhaust brake is out of adjustment.
There are other reasons, of course, but these things are the reason 80% of the time. At least half the time, injectors are the root cause of regen issues.
What you can do right now is modify the ITV. I describe how to do this in this thread. If it's worn out (sticks, has shaft play), replace it and modify the new one. This will solve some cases of low power during regen and a few other issues.
You will want to check and see if the A8440/A8510 recalls are open on your truck.
Is there black soot in your tailpipe? If so, the DPF is toast.