Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.

[greasytshirt]

Re: Headlights on buzzer...

Thanks for the tips on the radiator.

We have 2012 and up, 5 total. So far we have been relatively lucky. One truck had lots of issues, they ended up replacing the injectors and now it's fine.

What tricks? We haven't had a ton of regen issues yet, but we do in all of our other trucks. (Sterlings, Freightliner.) I tried to get the "rental flag" setting that you had suggested, but our dealer said they couldn't do that and was quite adamant.

Your dealer sucks.

I talked to my service manager about this, and he concurs with my analysis.

 

[coalminer]

Re: Headlights on buzzer...

Just let me know when you're coming!

I think my best time on a head gasket r+r is around 16 hours. There's a guy working here who is also very good and he can do it a little faster. This is including doing injector cups, but not taking both manifolds off and sending the head through the tornado washer to knock all the chunks off.

Warranty pays 13, which is ridiculous. They used to pay 10.9, which is utterly impossible. Then again, most of the other warranty times are reasonable, so it all works out.

I gotta warn you though, sometimes stuff does not go as planned. Lately there have been a handful of rocker box threads pulling out before the rocker shaft gets close to full torque. Not sure why yet. Also, the injector harness has insulation on it that easily flakes off. If this extra insulation is all removed, it looks exactly like how isuzu does it. However, if the boss man wanders by and sees a crunchy injector harness going back into an engine, things will be said. The real problem is that the dang thing is $500. We'll want to work out some contingency stuff before you arrive.

So what would think the ballpark total would be about $2500 unless the harness needs replaced?

 

[greasytshirt]

Re: Headlights on buzzer...

So what would think the ballpark total would be about $2500 unless the harness needs replaced?

Id better give you the number here and let the service manager sort that out with you.

I, personally, would have no problem spending a little while breaking the harness down, putting new insulation on it, and putting it back together. If yours is flaking apart, that stuff is going to end up getting stuck on the face of the oil pump pickup screen. Is this an actual problem? I doubt it, but disturbing the harness really makes the insulation flake.

As far as the stripping rocker box bolts are concerned, I'm capable of installing a helicoil properly. Hino would rather the rocker box be replaced. You don't want to know how much one costs.

Basically, you tell us exactly what you want to happen if things go awry, and we'll stick to that. Better to iron this stuff out beforehand.

 

[greasytshirt]

Ok I have read everything you said.

Dpr regen fine manually, I have auto transmission so it does go into auto regen mode during stop and go situations. But when it is in regen mode there is no power. Yes the eng brake was adjusted after the injectors where put it. The Dpr system is brand new not even a two week on my truck so it all works as it should. The whole computer test you where talking about was done and everything you mentioned about it hit target and actual. I will ask them to pop a new mfa sensor in for the hell of it to see if it was my maf sensors as I am headed down to the mech right now. I never said they played with settings I said they popped in a new ecu to see if the ecu wad the problem but it did not fix it. And as far as the valves I believe they where adjusted last about two years ago because of power loss then. I will ask them when I get there.

I don't know if you'll see this, but here goes.

Truck came in, similar problem. Frequent regens, manual regen fine, automatic regen =35mph.
ITV fine, and properly modified. No fuel restriction. No EGR problem. No VNT problem No fuel pressure problem. Injectors tested good. Good boost while driving (maybe a bit low).

I could not figure it out. Inspected the turbo. It was passing a little oil, but that's normal. Turbo radial and axial endplay normal. Turbine spun freely. However, when the truck shut off, you could hear the turbo surge. Checked the turbo again. If a little bit of pressure was put on the shaft (to the side), the shaft would stick for a moment and not spin. Replaced the turbo. The surging at engine shutdown had disappeared. Set it up for a driving regen. Picked up 10mph, but it's still not right. Then I noticed the once-normal boost reading was now reading a vacuum. I pulled over, made it stop the regen, took off again. Boost pressure went to 23PSIa (absolute, which includes atmospheric pressure). Normal is 35. Pulled over. It stayed at 23, then slowly backed off to 19. Should have been 14-15. Went back to the shop. Removed boost pressure sensor. It tested normal. Put compressed air into the tube going into the intake. First a lot of resistance, then I felt a pop. A blob of carbon was bouncing around in there, alternately clogging the tube like a two way check valve, almost. It was actually trapping boost in the sensor. Put it back together, set up another driving regen, and the truck runs perfectly both during normal driving and automatic regens.

 

[roygregory]

I have a 2006 Hino 268, on dashboard cluster top right hand light which is a gear with an exclamation mark in the middle. This came on when I was 120 miles from home. Truck will not go into overdrive so I slowed truck down to 50 MPH and cruised home. The truck shifts fine so I don't believe there is anything loose in the trans. The nearest Hino shop to get truck on computer is 70 miles away. Any advice as to what this could be would be greatly appreciated.

 

[greasytshirt]

I have a 2006 Hino 268, on dashboard cluster top right hand light which is a gear with an exclamation mark in the middle. This came on when I was 120 miles from home. Truck will not go into overdrive so I slowed truck down to 50 MPH and cruised home. The truck shifts fine so I don't believe there is anything loose in the trans. The nearest Hino shop to get truck on computer is 70 miles away. Any advice as to what this could be would be greatly appreciated.

There is a fault in transmission. Check fluid level. Is abs light on? This will cause transmission to overheat. If so, push in abs sensors as far as they will go, if possible.

 

[Delmolino]

I am having an issue with the check engine light coming on still and my mechanic thinks there is a butterfly valve that isnt opening to allow the correct air flow. The picture was taken from the front of the truck looking towards the back and I am on the drivers side of the engine compartment. The air tube is on the right of the picture, sometimes if the light is on and the truck wont go we can hit the piece located just to the left of the tube and it will start working fine some days it doesn't happen and some days it does (for instance today it back in the shop but worked fine yesterday). I believe P0628 is the code we will see because this is an issue we were running into last week. and we thought maybe it was just a bad connection with a plug but now think it may be something different.

Code is still: "Fuel pump "A" control circuit low"
Note this is just a basic code reader we use on any of the trucks we have.

p.s. We wiggled some wires going from what looks like some type of electrical box to the fuel pump then up to the throttle body. Engine light is off now but this feels more like a bandaid rather than a sure fix but the truck RPMs are going up and the truck will travel at a regular speed.

 

[roygregory]

There is a fault in transmission. Check fluid level. Is abs light on? This will cause transmission to overheat. If so, push in abs sensors as far as they will go, if possible.

Fluid level is fine, however my driver was unaware as to what fluid to use, also no ABS issues (No Lights) I had the entire wiring harness for ABS replaced 6-8 months ago.

 

[roygregory]

Fluid level is fine, however my driver was unaware as to what fluid to use, also no ABS issues (No Lights) I had the entire wiring harness for ABS replaced 6-8 months ago.

Also, light does not come on when first started as soon as you put in drive BAM light

 

[greasytshirt]

View attachment 10391
I am having an issue with the check engine light coming on still and my mechanic thinks there is a butterfly valve that isnt opening to allow the correct air flow. The picture was taken from the front of the truck looking towards the back and I am on the drivers side of the engine compartment. The air tube is on the right of the picture, sometimes if the light is on and the truck wont go we can hit the piece located just to the left of the tube and it will start working fine some days it doesn't happen and some days it does (for instance today it back in the shop but worked fine yesterday). I believe P0628 is the code we will see because this is an issue we were running into last week. and we thought maybe it was just a bad connection with a plug but now think it may be something different.

Code is still: "Fuel pump "A" control circuit low"
Note this is just a basic code reader we use on any of the trucks we have.

p.s. We wiggled some wires going from what looks like some type of electrical box to the fuel pump then up to the throttle body. Engine light is off now but this feels more like a bandaid rather than a sure fix but the truck RPMs are going up and the truck will travel at a regular speed.

Search this thread for ITV modification. Inspect it for wear. Any wear=replace the whole thing. Modify the new part.

Sounds like you have some crappy connections. Ohm everything.


P0628 is suction control valve malfunction. I know you just replaced it. Now replace the connector body and both wires. I suggested this earlier.

 

[greasytshirt]

Fluid level is fine, however my driver was unaware as to what fluid to use, also no ABS issues (No Lights) I had the entire wiring harness for ABS replaced 6-8 months ago.

Transyn 295 fluid. Anything else needs to be drained with a spin on filter change too. Dex III is ok for temporary use.

I can only o ffer a guess on the other part. Shift inhibit switch may be bad.

 

[rickandter]

Mr Hino I went and checked my throttle vavle all tight there, looked at wires on sensors on dpf all look good but the rear sensor I can move the sensor back and forth the nut that holds it in is tight, could this sensor be bad and throwing my engine light on and 10 bars? Thank you rick

 

[greasytshirt]

Mr Hino I went and checked my throttle vavle all tight there, looked at wires on sensors on dpf all look good but the rear sensor I can move the sensor back and forth the nut that holds it in is tight, could this sensor be bad and throwing my engine light on and 10 bars? Thank you rick

Sometimes those sensors are very hard to remove, and the threads in the hole get messed up. Then the sensor won't go in all the way when threaded in. I suspect this sensor may have been loose for a long time, since it doesnt need to be removed to do the recall. Are there fresh wrench marks on it?

Unplugging both dpf sensors can be difficult, and the harness wires can be damaged since they are delicate and subject to vibration damage.

Yes, its possible, I suppose, that this is causing the problem. But also look to see if the harness connectors' clips, which secure the connector to the chassis, exist and are secured. That is, is the harness side connector secured to its bracket, or is it flopping all around? If loose, someone was yanking on it.

 

[rickandter]

Thanks for the replie, the harness all looks good all clamps and clips in place, its just were you screw the sensor into the filter its tight but the long part of the sensor that sticks out you can move back and forth about 1/8 inch it was replaced on 5/14.thanks

 

[greasytshirt]

Thanks for the replie, the harness all looks good all clamps and clips in place, its just were you screw the sensor into the filter its tight but the long part of the sensor that sticks out you can move back and forth about 1/8 inch it was replaced on 5/14.thanks

So it was the sensor that goes directly into the dpf? There is only one. In that case, whoever did the recall is at fault.

 

[rickandter]

I thought there was a inlet sensor and a outlet sensor on the dpf? yes it is the one that goes in the back of dpf filter housing, the part where the wires go in moves back and forth not tight like the front one,,still driving truck at 10 bars but would like to fix it if I have to replace this sensor. Dpf cant be plugged I don't think because I have driven it at 10 bars for 4,000 miles Thanks

 

[greasytshirt]

I thought there was a inlet sensor and a outlet sensor on the dpf? yes it is the one that goes in the back of dpf filter housing, the part where the wires go in moves back and forth not tight like the front one,,still driving truck at 10 bars but would like to fix it if I have to replace this sensor. Dpf cant be plugged I don't think because I have driven it at 10 bars for 4,000 miles Thanks

There are two sensors, but only one is in the dpf body.

Im surprised it hasnt popped yet. It will have to be baked in a dpf oven. It will never regen 4000 miles worth of soot without melting.

If soot shows up in the tailpipe, it's too late.

It's possible to clog it past the point of no return in a single day.

 

[rickandter]

Do you think if i should replace the sensor in rear of dpf and have filter baked then regen dpf. It might be good then. No soot so far

 

[greasytshirt]

Do you think if i should replace the sensor in rear of dpf and have filter baked then regen dpf. It might be good then. No soot so far

Sure. I would not waste any time.

The dealer that did the work is responsible. Send them the bill.

You will want to retap the threads. Unusual size, 12mm-1.25. Good luck finding one on the shelf. McMaster. Com is a great place to order this stuff.

 

[Truckbizz]

Hello, I purchased a 2014 Hino 338 couple weeks ago. A/C had been working fine until yesterday I noticed it the air wasn't coming out as cold as usual. It seems too blow very cold then it warms up a little. Any idea what it might be?