Right in front of the rear axle.
Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.
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Right in front of the rear axle.
Ooh, red flag.
The temp sensors can be difficult to unplug. Yanking on an already delicate wire connector could have finished it off. Tech tip 09-006 addresses this issue. If possible, have the dealer who performed the 8440/8510 recalls do this work. If they screwed it up, it's their responsibility to fix it and any cascading damage.
floridawheels
Active Expediter
You mean this thing?
Assuming it is this and the thing with the 2 wires is the pressure sensor switch does that activate both the light and buzzer or just the buzzer? (Note: remember, the light works, buzzer does not)
The wires have been painted over but one looks white and the other is dark colored. What kind of meter reading should I expect to see on these wires?
Is the sensor a simple On/off? Open or closed with good pressure?
Is this the parking brake valve? The service brake relay valve also has a pressure switch on it (well, sometimes).
Just to make sure we're on the same page, we're looking for the valve that provides air to the spring brake chambers but not the one that controls the service brakes.
The link I posted showed the two air tank pressure sensors that provide the signal to the two air pressure gauges.
The low air pressure light and low air pressure warning buzzer are two separate pressure switches on the parking brake valve. I'm pretty sure the buzzer will only go off when the parking brake valve on the dash is pushed in. There's no point in hearing it screech while the parking brakes are set when a warning light is lit, but with the parking brakes disengaged it will alarm to tell you air pressure is low. There is a relay to separate the two functions.
Dump the air from the system, turn the ignition on, and push in the parking brake valve. You should be greeted with the most annoying sound in the world.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0cVlTeIATBs
The low air pressure light and low air pressure warning buzzer are two separate pressure switches on the parking brake valve. I'm pretty sure the buzzer will only go off when the parking brake valve on the dash is pushed in. There's no point in hearing it screech while the parking brakes are set when a warning light is lit, but with the parking brakes disengaged it will alarm to tell you air pressure is low. There is a relay to separate the two functions.
Dump the air from the system, turn the ignition on, and push in the parking brake valve. You should be greeted with the most annoying sound in the world.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0cVlTeIATBs
floridawheels
Active Expediter
You should be greeted with the most annoying sound in the world. ---- You obviously have never heard my x-wife whine about.... well almost anything..
However... Your 100% correct.
I found a wire going to the buzzer that was loose in the connector. Fixed that and now we have the second most annoying sound in the world when the conditions you mentioned are met!
Now, going back out to look into that 3 wires on the pressure tank. I'll let you know how it goes...
The pressure tank sensors are for the two air gauges. The 5v you are seeing is reference voltage.
floridawheels
Active Expediter
Houston we now have an accurate pressure reading in both systems !!!
I have been trying to get n owners manual since I got the truck with no luck so some questions I have are probably addressed in it but... As soon as I can actually get one I'll read it cover to cover!
So tell me... how does the front and rear air system actually work? I assume the 2 tanks are isolated from each other? I'm guessing the front and rear axle brakes are separated and each work off their own tank?
floridawheels
Active Expediter
Headlights on buzzer...
I don't have one. At least if I do it is not working. Is there supposed to be one on these trucks? (2007 338)
If so, I'll be fixing it. If not, I'll be installing one. I run with my headlights on during the day and sometimes forget to shut them off.
I don't have one. At least if I do it is not working. Is there supposed to be one on these trucks? (2007 338)
If so, I'll be fixing it. If not, I'll be installing one. I run with my headlights on during the day and sometimes forget to shut them off.
Re: Headlights on buzzer...
Speaking of brakes, here's a pdf. Page 2 shows a brake schematic. http://www.suspensionspecialists.com/techinfo/Bendix_Brake_Handbook_2009.pdf
Back to DRLs. Remove the kick panel from the front of the fuse box. Remove the dash piece above it, and then the big plastic piece on the far right, next to the door. Here we see all of the computers. On the lowest shelf is the engine ecu. 2nd shelf is the ABS computer. Third shelf from the bottom is turn signal controller, wiper module, and the pulse adjustment ecu (speedo cal, don't even ask). The very top shelf holds the daytime running light controller. Is there a box on the very top shelf? If so, good. If not, it can be added, but a few other things have to be done too. Not a big deal though.
Daytime running lights are an option. They are set up to turn on and off with the parking brake.
Speaking of brakes, here's a pdf. Page 2 shows a brake schematic. http://www.suspensionspecialists.com/techinfo/Bendix_Brake_Handbook_2009.pdf
Back to DRLs. Remove the kick panel from the front of the fuse box. Remove the dash piece above it, and then the big plastic piece on the far right, next to the door. Here we see all of the computers. On the lowest shelf is the engine ecu. 2nd shelf is the ABS computer. Third shelf from the bottom is turn signal controller, wiper module, and the pulse adjustment ecu (speedo cal, don't even ask). The very top shelf holds the daytime running light controller. Is there a box on the very top shelf? If so, good. If not, it can be added, but a few other things have to be done too. Not a big deal though.
floridawheels
Active Expediter
Re: Headlights on buzzer...
Thanks for the link to the brake book! I have to get up early so I'll look it over tomorrow afternoon.
I'll look for the DRL contolernext chanceI get to open up that side of the dash. In the mean time, I'll check to se if I actually have DRL's working and didn't even know it! (Kind of hard to see the headlights from the driver seat when the parking brake is off....lol...)
Thanks for the link to the brake book! I have to get up early so I'll look it over tomorrow afternoon.
I'll look for the DRL contolernext chanceI get to open up that side of the dash. In the mean time, I'll check to se if I actually have DRL's working and didn't even know it! (Kind of hard to see the headlights from the driver seat when the parking brake is off....lol...)
Re: Headlights on buzzer...
Well, I finally took my truck to dealer closest to my house to get the front main oil seal installed so that the leak finally stops. When I talked to them, they said 3-4 hours labor, and I figured an hour or so extra for cleaning. I told them to replace the lower radiator hose and the serpentine belt since they had to remove the belt and drain the coolant. They called me and said my head gasket is leaking, so I go and look, and under the exhaust manifold, it does look like the head gasket is leaking, as I did notice a couple of bubbles when its running. Told him looks like that is my next project and told him to go ahead and just do the front seal anyway, I will worry about the head gasket later. He said about 20 hours to do the head gasket.
Fast forward a couple of days and they call to say the truck is done, the bill is $1026, im like you have to be kidding me, and they were like they didn't charge me for a few hours labor. Told them ok but will be a couple of days before I can pick it up as I was not expecting that much. Out of curiosity I stopped and looked at the bill and to talk to them, they didn't change the radiator hose as they didn't have it in stock and they said I didn't approve it, (they never asked). They did replace the serpentine belt, and the AC belt, which I didn't want replaced as it does not work anyway. The notes said they had problems getting the harmonic balancer off of the crank and that's why there was so much more labor. Told them I did that seal about a year ago and it took me 3 hours total to do that job, and I didn't have the special tools.
From now on, I am going to do one of 2 things, either buy special tool myself, or better yet, drive the truck to Virginia and take it to the resident Hino expert.
Well, I finally took my truck to dealer closest to my house to get the front main oil seal installed so that the leak finally stops. When I talked to them, they said 3-4 hours labor, and I figured an hour or so extra for cleaning. I told them to replace the lower radiator hose and the serpentine belt since they had to remove the belt and drain the coolant. They called me and said my head gasket is leaking, so I go and look, and under the exhaust manifold, it does look like the head gasket is leaking, as I did notice a couple of bubbles when its running. Told him looks like that is my next project and told him to go ahead and just do the front seal anyway, I will worry about the head gasket later. He said about 20 hours to do the head gasket.
Fast forward a couple of days and they call to say the truck is done, the bill is $1026, im like you have to be kidding me, and they were like they didn't charge me for a few hours labor. Told them ok but will be a couple of days before I can pick it up as I was not expecting that much. Out of curiosity I stopped and looked at the bill and to talk to them, they didn't change the radiator hose as they didn't have it in stock and they said I didn't approve it, (they never asked). They did replace the serpentine belt, and the AC belt, which I didn't want replaced as it does not work anyway. The notes said they had problems getting the harmonic balancer off of the crank and that's why there was so much more labor. Told them I did that seal about a year ago and it took me 3 hours total to do that job, and I didn't have the special tools.
From now on, I am going to do one of 2 things, either buy special tool myself, or better yet, drive the truck to Virginia and take it to the resident Hino expert.
Re: Headlights on buzzer...
Every time I tell one of y'all to take the truck to the dealer, I'm crossing my fingers that you won't get screwed over.
That is ridiculous. I mean, you can fit an impact wrench in there and just zip the balancer right off. It ain't rocket surgery.
Every time I tell one of y'all to take the truck to the dealer, I'm crossing my fingers that you won't get screwed over.
That is ridiculous. I mean, you can fit an impact wrench in there and just zip the balancer right off. It ain't rocket surgery.
Bob Loblaw
Rookie Expediter
Re: Headlights on buzzer...
Quick question about coolant.
We have shredding trucks and they run really hard all summer in the Texas heat. Is there a premium coolant choice we should make? (We currently use the recommended Hino coolant.)
Also, should we increase our coolant change frequency? We currently go by the book.
Thanks so much for this thread, it's great.
Quick question about coolant.
We have shredding trucks and they run really hard all summer in the Texas heat. Is there a premium coolant choice we should make? (We currently use the recommended Hino coolant.)
Also, should we increase our coolant change frequency? We currently go by the book.
Thanks so much for this thread, it's great.
Re: Headlights on buzzer...
The most important thing you can do is to periodically do a thorough cleaning of the radiator fins. To be thorough means to remove the intercooler. The fins of the radiator get packed full of junk and it'll seriously interfere with airflow, and you can't see this with the intercooler still in place. What I do is soak the fins with an aluminum safe cleaner, use a garden hose and blast up and down each line of core, then follow up with compressed air, up and down each row of core. It's amazing how much crud comes out.
It's also important to make sure that the fan clutches engage. If the temp gauge starts creeping above its normal limits, the roar of the fan clutch should soon follow. If it doesn't, replace it.
I don't remember what years of trucks you have. 08-up? Having any problems doing regens after a few hours of shredding? There are some tricks that can be done to help trucks used in stationary roles combat soot loading and subsequent manual regens minutes after leaving the jobsite.
The most important thing you can do is to periodically do a thorough cleaning of the radiator fins. To be thorough means to remove the intercooler. The fins of the radiator get packed full of junk and it'll seriously interfere with airflow, and you can't see this with the intercooler still in place. What I do is soak the fins with an aluminum safe cleaner, use a garden hose and blast up and down each line of core, then follow up with compressed air, up and down each row of core. It's amazing how much crud comes out.
It's also important to make sure that the fan clutches engage. If the temp gauge starts creeping above its normal limits, the roar of the fan clutch should soon follow. If it doesn't, replace it.
I don't remember what years of trucks you have. 08-up? Having any problems doing regens after a few hours of shredding? There are some tricks that can be done to help trucks used in stationary roles combat soot loading and subsequent manual regens minutes after leaving the jobsite.
Re: Headlights on buzzer...
I didn't have any power tools and I was able to get it off without any problem. I will have to scan the bill and send it to you so you can see what they said, something about since there was an extra pulley on the balancer that is what gave them issues. Im pretty sure at one time my truck was a reefer truck and there was an engine driven compressor, which is what the extra pulley was for.
Next time im just going to spend the extra fuel and get a hotel room and bring it to you.
When they said 20 hours labor for the head gasket, does that sound about right?
I didn't have any power tools and I was able to get it off without any problem. I will have to scan the bill and send it to you so you can see what they said, something about since there was an extra pulley on the balancer that is what gave them issues. Im pretty sure at one time my truck was a reefer truck and there was an engine driven compressor, which is what the extra pulley was for.
Next time im just going to spend the extra fuel and get a hotel room and bring it to you.
When they said 20 hours labor for the head gasket, does that sound about right?
Re: Headlights on buzzer...
Just let me know when you're coming!
I think my best time on a head gasket r+r is around 16 hours. There's a guy working here who is also very good and he can do it a little faster. This is including doing injector cups, but not taking both manifolds off and sending the head through the tornado washer to knock all the chunks off.
Warranty pays 13, which is ridiculous. They used to pay 10.9, which is utterly impossible. Then again, most of the other warranty times are reasonable, so it all works out.
I gotta warn you though, sometimes stuff does not go as planned. Lately there have been a handful of rocker box threads pulling out before the rocker shaft gets close to full torque. Not sure why yet. Also, the injector harness has insulation on it that easily flakes off. If this extra insulation is all removed, it looks exactly like how isuzu does it. However, if the boss man wanders by and sees a crunchy injector harness going back into an engine, things will be said. The real problem is that the dang thing is $500. We'll want to work out some contingency stuff before you arrive.
Just let me know when you're coming!
I think my best time on a head gasket r+r is around 16 hours. There's a guy working here who is also very good and he can do it a little faster. This is including doing injector cups, but not taking both manifolds off and sending the head through the tornado washer to knock all the chunks off.
Warranty pays 13, which is ridiculous. They used to pay 10.9, which is utterly impossible. Then again, most of the other warranty times are reasonable, so it all works out.
I gotta warn you though, sometimes stuff does not go as planned. Lately there have been a handful of rocker box threads pulling out before the rocker shaft gets close to full torque. Not sure why yet. Also, the injector harness has insulation on it that easily flakes off. If this extra insulation is all removed, it looks exactly like how isuzu does it. However, if the boss man wanders by and sees a crunchy injector harness going back into an engine, things will be said. The real problem is that the dang thing is $500. We'll want to work out some contingency stuff before you arrive.
Bob Loblaw
Rookie Expediter
Re: Headlights on buzzer...
Thanks for the tips on the radiator.
We have 2012 and up, 5 total. So far we have been relatively lucky. One truck had lots of issues, they ended up replacing the injectors and now it's fine.
What tricks? We haven't had a ton of regen issues yet, but we do in all of our other trucks. (Sterlings, Freightliner.) I tried to get the "rental flag" setting that you had suggested, but our dealer said they couldn't do that and was quite adamant.
Thanks for the tips on the radiator.
We have 2012 and up, 5 total. So far we have been relatively lucky. One truck had lots of issues, they ended up replacing the injectors and now it's fine.
What tricks? We haven't had a ton of regen issues yet, but we do in all of our other trucks. (Sterlings, Freightliner.) I tried to get the "rental flag" setting that you had suggested, but our dealer said they couldn't do that and was quite adamant.
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