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“Paid a lot” :tearsofjoy: I just do it because I enjoy helping people, and gain experience and knowledge along the way. I have had a few generous parties submit a donation to my PayPal, I but I don’t receive a check or anything :smiley:

Leave it in OD. You wont hurt a thing. If you drive it in just D you will use more fuel, work the transmission and the engine harder. Change the spin on filter with a GENUINE ALLISON filter every 50k, clean the magnet that sits above the filter and if its missing get one from a dealer. Use...

UPDATE>> I checked warranty, and as you stated it is covered. It has an outstanding campaign, which when performed will disable the ability to use the exhaust brake at idle, inflicts a more severe de-rate when the DPR is full, and will not allow you use the cruise control function to ramp up...

I’m not near my laptop but... if it is still covered by emissions (warranty 5 years 100k is standard coverage) take it to the dealer. Nox sensors are roughly $525 each and are usually replaced in pairs. My quick 2 cents.

You would need a dealer to do it, or anyone with Hino DX, DX2 software or a Denso DST-I interface tool. Essentially the same software you will need to program the trim codes in the ECU. You need to look at Injection quantity with and without the exhaust brake on. On the newer stuff that has the...

Update... broken pieces of spring from the fuel supply pump were found lodged in the #2 and #6 flow dampers. TMAR cleaned the rail/dampers. Reinstalled the rail, ran a regen and the truck is running fine. He will be replacing the pump shortly as a precautionary measure.

PM sent.

See the pics of the debris in the flow dampers here on this post. https://www.expeditersonline.com/forums/threads/2010-hino-268-p0087-and-p0088.71651/

Yes you can remove the flow dampers and inspect them for debris. If you have replaced 6 injectors, you should of had them adjust the exhaust brake at the dealer when you had them program the trim codes. You need to monitor the injection quantity and set it to 12mm-14mm for that vintage. You will...

If you can find something built before 2007. Pre DPF/SCR. Im pretty partial to Hinos, but they can get expensive to fix when talking after-treatment just as all the other manufactures. I work at a Mack/Volvo/Hino dealership across from a international dealership. I know some of the techs from...

Save yourself huge hassle and just buy an OEM one from a dealer. Otherwise you are just asking for problems IMHO. I have been working on these for over 14 years. I have heard of only one person, who had any luck with aftermarket actuators or turbos. Keep the linkage lubed, pre-lube the bearing...

Be sure to check the fuel pump drive coupler for cracks while you have it off. Let us know how you make out.

Part #s

I attached pics of the parts, part number’s and the pieces you can throw away.

If the system if functioning correctly. The pump motor should run constantly anytime the key is on and the engine is off. The 9 pin is for Meritor Walcott brakes & Allison transmissions. The 16 pin is for the engine. Hino 16p are different from Mack/Volvo 16p. That may be why you can’t...

Pics

I usually quote 4-5 hrs. It’s usually a straightforward job but if someone has been there before and linked up the lines it can get interesting. At 235 degrees and almost 500k miles is say you are on the right track. I have a banjo fitting I made and install one endin the tank and the other...

Strap wrench, filter pliers or as a last resort like Tobster said. Stab a screw driver through it and break it free that way.

Yep codes, Vin. 4 or 6 cyl ? Would help. I have seen a few issues with the can line to the VNT chaffing near the alternator. Pretty much guessing without having any more info. Could be fuel related as well. Codes would really help narrow it down.

Does the 04 have a hood ? If so then maybe, if not NO. Call a dealer with both vin# ‘s and see if the cab is the same part #. The. Conventional cab started in 05 and is completely different than a COE.