Don't mistake this for a diagnosis! I'm not there to confirm it. This is just conjecture based off of experience.
Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.
- Thread starter greasytshirt
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Other things can cause this too. Excessive engine oil is one, like from a turbo that is barfing oil. Either straight into the exhaust, or allowing the engine to consume it's own oil from a turbo pushing oil into the intake. Either way will have oil or excess soot entering the dpf, and the regen will get hotter faster than the truck ecu can control it.
I just took the truck in at the dealer today and they replaced the temp flame sensor and advised me that was the issue. After getting the truck back we drove the truck for 4 hours with no issues. After 4 hours the def quality message came and another messages comes asking to change to DEF to normal one. It show code p207f. Is there a way I could empty the def and refill it or do I need to take it back to the dealer?
I'd take it back. This code means that there's little change in NOx conversion for the amount of DEF put in. SCR catalyst efficiency may be suffering. And they are going about it the wrong way. The flame temp sensor is used to control combustion in the burner, it has little to do with what happens downstream of the DPF. Excessive temperature past the DPF is caused by soot or oil loading and a resulting runaway cookdown. This sets after five continuous minutes of temps higher than 1796 degrees, about three hundred degrees hotter than the melting point of the ceramic substrate the DPF is made of.
Try the DEF change first. Do it soon, and do it with the ignition on. It wants to see the gauge empty and then start to refill. You need to put in about a gallon.
What I'm concerned about is that DPF outlet temp reached some huge number and damaged the catalyst. That thing is expensive. If you have concerns about the quality of the work there, tell them that you expect to see a Tech Assist case started and have Tech Assist direct the troubleshooting and repair.
I want to know what the historical max logged DPF outlet temperature is. This is part of a DX report, something that they can prepare for you in about 5 minutes. I'd also be curious to know the contents of the burner event log, and I'd want to see the results of an injection quantity test. This whole list of tests and stuff can be completed in less than an hour.
This is gonna be expensive. Be prepared.
I just ordered an SCR catalyst for a 2014 Kenworth because the EGR cooler on the Cummins engine leaked antifreeze into the exhaust and poisoned the catalyst. These problems are unfortunately widespread across manufacturers. Trucks nowadays have to be just about running perfectly all the time or these systems get challenged pretty hard.
Hi I'm just wondering if there is any way to turn up the power on the exhaust break in my truck it is a 2012 Hino 358 with the Allison automatic . I'm just wondering as the break is really under powered when I'm running with a heavy load and the area I drive in is extremely hilly.
The exhaust brake adjustment should not be altered.
Hey Greasy, we got a 2016 386 that was hit on the front right and had the wheel pushed back into the DEF. the DEF tank is not salvageable. The exhaust and converter are a little banged up (can't believe the amount wiring). I was wondering if you think it would be workable if we showed some pics?
Post some pictures. Any wiring harness repair needs to be done very well, or it's going to give you future grief. Most of those sensors are very expensive, so be careful with disassembly. Leave the temp sensors in place if possible.
rhitrucking
Active Expediter
hopefully someone can help me. The radiator on my 2008 338 is about shot and has a small leak. It seems the part number for 2005-2007 is 16400e0070 and for 2008 16400e0260. However, most places that sell radiators are saying 2005-2008 are all the same. What if any is the difference?
Here are some of the pics. All of the sensors appear to be good, it looks like it is just heat shield damage. We are being told that you have to buy part by part for the DEF assembly.....do you know of anywhere to purchase the entire assembly together? It appears to be a little twisted as well...Thank you much
Go to eBay. Picked mine up for $400 have had it for a year now installed, No Problems.
rhitrucking
Active Expediter
Tobster, what year and model was yours?
2007, 338
They should be very similar. 2011 and up are very different. Tobster317 got a great price on one for his 2007. Shoot him a pm.
I should have looked at the rest of the thread before replying lol.
It
I don't know if the system comes in a complete assembly.
Here are some of the pics. All of the sensors appear to be good, it looks like it is just heat shield damage. We are being told that you have to buy part by part for the DEF assembly.....do you know of anywhere to purchase the entire assembly together? It appears to be a little twisted as well...Thank you much
I have a 2009 hino fs 700 ( fs1e) 2844
It has 196000k's was driving along the motorway and instantly the truck cut out it was as if someone had turned the key off, we have all lights on dash it turns over but will not fire, we have fuel pressure up to the injectors, power to all solenoids, it will not fire at all, I've had a three people connect their computer to it and the last one had said there is an open circuit on the wiring that the computers use to talk to each other, apparently it's the high speed comma line.
Anyone had anything similar?
It has 196000k's was driving along the motorway and instantly the truck cut out it was as if someone had turned the key off, we have all lights on dash it turns over but will not fire, we have fuel pressure up to the injectors, power to all solenoids, it will not fire at all, I've had a three people connect their computer to it and the last one had said there is an open circuit on the wiring that the computers use to talk to each other, apparently it's the high speed comma line.
Anyone had anything similar?
Hey there. The last guy that looked at it, how familiar was he with Hinos? I'm just curious.
If I were faced with this problem, I'd start by confirming an rpm signal with DX2, then looking at actual fuel pressure while cranking. If that was ok, then I'd look to see if the injectors were powered. The ECU does not need to see input from every sensor to be able to start and run, but a few are essential.
You may have also suffered some sort of mechanical failure, but this is probably not the case.
Too bad it's not an earlier truck. There's a mayflower truck here that was in a rollover and it's getting parted out.
Here are some of the pics. All of the sensors appear to be good, it looks like it is just heat shield damage. We are being told that you have to buy part by part for the DEF assembly.....do you know of anywhere to purchase the entire assembly together? It appears to be a little twisted as well...Thank you much
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