Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.

[greasytshirt]

Assuming that is correct, this brings what is probably a final question. The fuel lines (both pick up and return) enter the tank at the top. I understand what your saying about the system siphoning from tank to tank and the "Initial air purge" is necessary to make the siphon deal work. So what happens if you run the truck out of fuel? How does it "Re-purge" the air? And just as important... Once I tee into the current lines, how do I purge the air in order to get it all to work again/now? Or will adding fuel to the full tank level take care of purging enough air that it will pull enough suction to get passed the small amount of remaining air and just keep working?

Thanks again!!

If the lines are free of air, the tanks will equalize. The lines will eventually free themselves of air while the truck is running. If you run it out of fuel, simply cranking it will purge the air. Some models have primer pumps, and you can use that to get fuel up to the engine and avoid excessive cranking.\


If you run all the tanks very low, you may have to add fuel to all of them or it'll suck air from the empty ones.

What are you carrying that allows you to give up that much cargo capacity in exchange for fuel weight?

Oh, get aluminum tanks, if possible. Trucks of that area are starting to rust the tanks out in the corners, and the rust flakes easily clog the lines.

 

[floridawheels]

If you run all the tanks very low, you may have to add fuel to all of them or it'll suck air from the empty ones.

I was thinking about putting a ball valve (on/off) in the lines to the new tank. When I'm running low I could shut off the "Aux" tank to prevent that. Was also thinking that if I wanted to really get stupid with it I could install a SMALL fuel pump in the feed line of the aux tank and route a line from the output of the pump into the return line of the factory tank. If I did that and shut off the valves when the main gauge was at about 1/8 and turn on the pump it would empty the aux tank into the factory allowing me to suck that one dry and would raise the main tank to probably 1/2 or so.

What are you carrying that allows you to give up that much cargo capacity in exchange for fuel weight?

Truck is set up with a 5th wheel. I haul cars but most of the time I have at least 1,000lbs of extra weight capacity available. What I do not have is an over abundance of patients to deal with the BS and lines at the fuel island so being able to spend 2x as long between visits would be a good thing. Plus, if I can't find a way to overcome my RPM problem it looks like I'll be riding along at about 50mph in order to get reasonable MPG so I won't have time to be sitting in fuel lines twice a day. The extra capacity will allow me to time my fueling when the islands are most likely to be less populated... At least most of the time.

Oh, get aluminum tanks, if possible. Trucks of that area are starting to rust the tanks out in the corners, and the rust flakes easily clog the lines.

Exactly what I was thinking!

*****As I was typing the response about the valves/pump and so forth I was thinking... (And that is always dangerous for me... LOL) Instead of getting a 100 gallon tank for my aux why not just get a 150 and do away with the left side factory (Steel) tank.That one is mounted under the sleeper and is a REAL pain to fill because I can barely get the nozzle into the neck of the tank. IF I use a right side tank from a KW or Pete and mount it on the left side the fill will be on the right end of the tank and that will extend back beyond the sleeper and be easy to fill. The total volume of the system will remain the same (50+50+100 or 50+150) and it would totally eliminate any need for the whole valve/pump thing.

Do you see any problems with that? The only 2 things I see that might be an issue is if the factory fuel level sender is in the left tank I'll have to figure out a way to read fuel level. The other issue is the self leveling feature of the system. I am GUESSING that in this case gravity is my friend and will keep the fuel at the same height from the ground in each tank. It should not matter if it is 50+50 and a 100 or if it is 50+150, the height above ground will be the same in all. On the other hand, I'm not sure how the return fuel line will affect the system when the truck is running. I can see the 100 or 150 trying to somehow "over fill" the smaller 50 factory tank(s) and causing me a problem. Your thoughts?

 

[rickandter]

Dear Mr Hino wrench, My 2008 I have had in 4 diff shops trying to fix my dpf that went from 1,2,3 bars to 1,5bars, then after a couple times of manual regen it went 1-10 bars have had in 4 diff shops one said all new injectors the next one said they check good but he blew out a line down on dpf that was plugged, the next one reset bars said cant find anything need to drop dpf, next one said new injectors,dpf filter but don't recamend it because of 940,000 just buy another truck, any advise you can help?? Truck runs fine except engine light on ,10 bars 90 % power have driven on 10 bars now for 4000 miles dpf don't seem to be plugged.. Thanks

 

[greasytshirt]

Dear Mr Hino wrench, My 2008 I have had in 4 diff shops trying to fix my dpf that went from 1,2,3 bars to 1,5bars, then after a couple times of manual regen it went 1-10 bars have had in 4 diff shops one said all new injectors the next one said they check good but he blew out a line down on dpf that was plugged, the next one reset bars said cant find anything need to drop dpf, next one said new injectors,dpf filter but don't recamend it because of 940,000 just buy another truck, any advise you can help?? Truck runs fine except engine light on ,10 bars 90 % power have driven on 10 bars now for 4000 miles dpf don't seem to be plugged.. Thanks

The dpf temp sensor connector s on the harness side tend to break the wires inside. This can cause the dpr graph to jump up likr this.

Have you had the 8440/8510 recalls done?
Has the itv been modified?
Check these things.

Does the truck regen ever? Is the tailpipe dirty with soot? Take the eight bolts off of the back of the dpf and remove the tailpipe. Is the back off the dpf blown out? If so, id consider ignoring it.

 

[greasytshirt]

I was thinking about putting a ball valve (on/off) in the lines to the new tank. When I'm running low I could shut off the "Aux" tank to prevent that. Was also thinking that if I wanted to really get stupid with it I could install a SMALL fuel pump in the feed line of the aux tank and route a line from the output of the pump into the return line of the factory tank. If I did that and shut off the valves when the main gauge was at about 1/8 and turn on the pump it would empty the aux tank into the factory allowing me to suck that one dry and would raise the main tank to probably 1/2 or so.


Truck is set up with a 5th wheel. I haul cars but most of the time I have at least 1,000lbs of extra weight capacity available. What I do not have is an over abundance of patients to deal with the BS and lines at the fuel island so being able to spend 2x as long between visits would be a good thing. Plus, if I can't find a way to overcome my RPM problem it looks like I'll be riding along at about 50mph in order to get reasonable MPG so I won't have time to be sitting in fuel lines twice a day. The extra capacity will allow me to time my fueling when the islands are most likely to be less populated... At least most of the time.


Exactly what I was thinking!

*****As I was typing the response about the valves/pump and so forth I was thinking... (And that is always dangerous for me... LOL) Instead of getting a 100 gallon tank for my aux why not just get a 150 and do away with the left side factory (Steel) tank.That one is mounted under the sleeper and is a REAL pain to fill because I can barely get the nozzle into the neck of the tank. IF I use a right side tank from a KW or Pete and mount it on the left side the fill will be on the right end of the tank and that will extend back beyond the sleeper and be easy to fill. The total volume of the system will remain the same (50+50+100 or 50+150) and it would totally eliminate any need for the whole valve/pump thing.

Do you see any problems with that? The only 2 things I see that might be an issue is if the factory fuel level sender is in the left tank I'll have to figure out a way to read fuel level. The other issue is the self leveling feature of the system. I am GUESSING that in this case gravity is my friend and will keep the fuel at the same height from the ground in each tank. It should not matter if it is 50+50 and a 100 or if it is 50+150, the height above ground will be the same in all. On the other hand, I'm not sure how the return fuel line will affect the system when the truck is running. I can see the 100 or 150 trying to somehow "over fill" the smaller 50 factory tank(s) and causing me a problem. Your thoughts?

International uses a pump to pump from the aux tank to the main tank. Unfortunately that function is ecu controlled. It compares the level in each tank and pumps until they match.

Maybe some other simple controller could be employed.

 

[floridawheels]

International uses a pump to pump from the aux tank to the main tank. Unfortunately that function is ecu controlled. It compares the level in each tank and pumps until they match.

Maybe some other simple controller could be employed.

So (with different size tanks combined in the system) I should not have to worry about any tank to tank overflowing while driving? (Assuming no user installed pump is being used to screw things up).

As for a controller, that could be done manually. I could just wait until the main tanks showed 1/8 and flip the switch until main is over 3/4 and shut it off until it was back down to about 1/2. If I install a stand alone gauge in the axu tank keeping track of overall fuel available would be easy. Not much different than manually managing multiple tanks in an aircraft.

 

[greasytshirt]

So (with different size tanks combined in the system) I should not have to worry about any tank to tank overflowing while driving? (Assuming no user installed pump is being used to screw things up).

As for a controller, that could be done manually. I could just wait until the main tanks showed 1/8 and flip the switch until main is over 3/4 and shut it off until it was back down to about 1/2. If I install a stand alone gauge in the axu tank keeping track of overall fuel available would be easy. Not much different than manually managing multiple tanks in an aircraft.

Manually would certainly be the easiest and cheapest route.

A fifth wheel? Is this something you put together yourself, or are you outside of the US?

 

[floridawheels]

Manually would certainly be the easiest and cheapest route.

A fifth wheel? Is this something you put together yourself, or are you outside of the US?

I'm in Florida. As long as your not down in Miami the rest of Florida is still considered part of the US.... LOL.

It used to be a Fed X expediter truck, (that is why I came here looking for help/answers). We took the box off, cut off about 6' of rear frame overhang, put on a full size sliding 5th wheel plate, installed and plumed all the correct air lines/valves and electrical so it is just like it had come from the factory ready to pull commercial trailers.

After running it for a couple weeks I have learned that I don't need all of the available wheelbase so I'll probably be removing the center (short driveshaft) and rolling the rear end up to the next position that already has all the holes punched in the frame. I'll have to cut the huck bolts and replace them with new grade 8 stuff but that is not a real big deal. If all goes well we should be able to get it done in a weekend.

But my first priority is to get the RPM issue under control. Once that is handled this will be a great truck for me.

Once the RPM issue is behind me I'll install a goosneck ball under the 5th wheel (slide 5th out of the way to use the goose ball) and put a super heavy duty receiver hitch on the back to pull tag axle trailers. Then I'll be able to move pretty much anything I want/need to.

 

[rickandter]

Yes all recalls have just been done about the same time this started going 10 bars,itv has been mod. First dealer regened it and check back of dpf said ok needs injectors, second dealer blew out line on sensors checked injectors ran regen said ok, third dealer tricked computer as he said to regen it checked everything said all ok should drop dpf to check for plugging, last dealer checked injectors and said 3 are bad and others should be relaced with them and said I should replaced dpf filter also but said truck has to many miles would buy new,I will check wires on sensors anything else I could do dealer wants 10,000 thanks

 

[rickandter]

sorry also truck smeels like its regening but mech says it cant on 10 bars no soot in tailpipe

 

[greasytshirt]

sorry also truck smeels like its regening but mech says it cant on 10 bars no soot in tailpipe

How does it run? Does it misfire and clatter? Does the rpm surge if you hold it at, say, 1500 rpm?

If you turn up the idle knob all the way, it will run at 980 rpm. If you turn on the exhaust brake, can it maintain that rpm, or does it drop?

Does the truck idle much, followed by the Dpr graph jumping when you finally get moving?

Is the turbo barfing oil into the intercooler?


The dealer will have to check the pm amount before doing a regen. If it's over 12, it will damage the dpf. It can be baked if it hasn't blown the back out if it.
If the graph shows 10 bars, it won't attempt a regen.

 

[rickandter]

runs fine just at about 90% and fuel milage down,runs smooth no clatter that I can hear,no surge at all,truck hardly ever idles except to warm up about 1/2 hour, truck at 10 bars now, no oil in intercooler, they just did dpf recall when it was at 10 bars,said it was fine,

 

[floridawheels]

Hey.. New question:

I was just out working on some stuff on the truck and found that my low air pressure light comes on but the buzzer has quit working.

I have checked all dash and battery panel fuses and they are good.

I found a small buzzer mounted next to the steering column on the left side of the column. I pulled it out and tested it. It works. I reinstalled it.

I found under the truck on the passenger side air tank what looks like a pressure sensor. Has 3 wires going to it. All 3 had at some point been cut and spliced with those cheap *** crimp connectors and they used blue on a red size wire. All 3 were pulled loose from 1 end. The wires coming from the truck do not color match the wires on the plug.

1 of the truck wires has voltage when the key is on. Neither of the other 2 goes to ground under key on or off. The key on voltage is about 5-6 volts. Was using a cheap meter and had trouble holding connection and reading voltage at the same time.

It looks like 1 of the sensor wires is a common to the other 2 with each of the other 2 having a different ohm reading. The reading does not seem to change when the low air pressure light is on or off.

The low air light continues to function properly.

Questions:

Since this sensor obviously does not control the light, where is the sensor that does?

What do you think this sensor is for?

Any advise on figuring out which of the 3 wires go back together? (In order to make whatever it work that it is supposed to be monitoring/controlling)

Any tips on where to look for the no buzzer problem?

Thanks again!

 

[greasytshirt]

Hey.. New question:

I was just out working on some stuff on the truck and found that my low air pressure light comes on but the buzzer has quit working.

I have checked all dash and battery panel fuses and they are good.

I found a small buzzer mounted next to the steering column on the left side of the column. I pulled it out and tested it. It works. I reinstalled it.

I found under the truck on the passenger side air tank what looks like a pressure sensor. Has 3 wires going to it. All 3 had at some point been cut and spliced with those cheap *** crimp connectors and they used blue on a red size wire. All 3 were pulled loose from 1 end. The wires coming from the truck do not color match the wires on the plug.

1 of the truck wires has voltage when the key is on. Neither of the other 2 goes to ground under key on or off. The key on voltage is about 5-6 volts. Was using a cheap meter and had trouble holding connection and reading voltage at the same time.

It looks like 1 of the sensor wires is a common to the other 2 with each of the other 2 having a different ohm reading. The reading does not seem to change when the low air pressure light is on or off.

The low air light continues to function properly.

Questions:

Since this sensor obviously does not control the light, where is the sensor that does?

What do you think this sensor is for?

Any advise on figuring out which of the 3 wires go back together? (In order to make whatever it work that it is supposed to be monitoring/controlling)

Any tips on where to look for the no buzzer problem?

Thanks again!

Im gonna have to look at a wiring diagram to answer that. The low air warning switch is on the parking brake valve. The buzzer may be also.

 

[greasytshirt]

runs fine just at about 90% and fuel milage down,runs smooth no clatter that I can hear,no surge at all,truck hardly ever idles except to warm up about 1/2 hour, truck at 10 bars now, no oil in intercooler, they just did dpf recall when it was at 10 bars,said it was fine,

I'd check the harness side of the dpf sensor connectors. It can be hard to tell if they are bad so they're often tested buy load testing the circuit at the ecu with a headlight bulb.

 

[floridawheels]

Im gonna have to look at a wiring diagram to answer that. The low air warning switch is on the parking brake valve. The buzzer may be also.

Do you have access to the diagrams at home or will that have to wait until next week?

I'll pull the dash off tomorrow and look at the back of the parking brake valve and see whats back there.

Thanks!

 

[greasytshirt]

Do you have access to the diagrams at home or will that have to wait until next week?

I'll pull the dash off tomorrow and look at the back of the parking brake valve and see whats back there.

Thanks!

Theres nothing behind the valve. The wife is watching something on Netflix streaming, so i need to wait until the computer is free.

 

[floridawheels]

Theres nothing behind the valve. The wife is watching something on Netflix streaming, so i need to wait until the computer is free.

I thought when you said the switch was on the parking brake valve you meant the yellow dash button/valve. I didn't think there was anything behind the dash valve for the low pressure switch to attach to but after I read what you said about the parking brake valve I figured I would look. So..... where is the parking brake valve of which you speak?

 

[greasytshirt]

I thought when you said the switch was on the parking brake valve you meant the yellow dash button/valve. I didn't think there was anything behind the dash valve for the low pressure switch to attach to but after I read what you said about the parking brake valve I figured I would look. So..... where is the parking brake valve of which you speak?

I meant the relay valve, for the spring brake chambers.

 

[floridawheels]

I meant the relay valve, for the spring brake chambers.

Oh, Ok....! So.... where is that located??? LOL..