Yes, If you have access, definitely use it. The ABS and TCU communicate on the low speed data bus which uses the 9-pin connector.
Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.
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Yes, If you have access, definitely use it. The ABS and TCU communicate on the low speed data bus which uses the 9-pin connector.
Hi there,
Over here in the states, all of the conventional trucks have the tendency to collect an enormous amount of debris on the radiator, but only over the areas you can't see. Seriously, if the air conditioning condensor is moved aside and the intercooler removed, sometimes you'll be confronted with a pile of crap so deep you can't see the radiator fins.
I imagine Western Australia is full of large flying insects and similar debris, so this would be one of the first things I check. Be careful with your cleaning methods, because the fins are rather delicate. A pressure washer will destroy the fins. Try soaking with an aluminum safe cleaner for 15 minutes or so, followed by a garden hose, then compressed air.
Zippochips
Rookie Expediter
Key cyc doesn't have any power to it all fuse good.
You'll want a hand wrestling the intercooler out, but it's not difficult.
I'm gonna have to consult a wiring diagram. It'll Bea while before I get a chance.
Have you recently had the pan off and the internal filter replaced? P0756 is a code for stuck shift solenoid b, P0757 is for another solenoid (C?).
There are two pans available, a deep and a shallow. The filters are different. If a shallow filter goes into a deep pan, it'll eventually fall off. The pump intake will start sucking air.
The deep pan is roughly 3"-4" tall, and takes a pan filter that's white. Every one I've ever seen (that I paid attention to) is a deep filter. The filter for the shallow pan is black. Since we're talking about $100 worth of fluid, catch it in a clean container. Wipe the pan and everything down first. 15mm drain plug. Put the drain plug back in and remove the 13mm pan bolts. More fluid is going to come out. It would be good to have a big clean tray under there so you can lay the trans pan on it.
If you are able to pull the pan straight down without cocking it from side to side and lower it away from the transmission, you'll be able to tell if the filter was put in properly. It's not a tight fit, but it will stick into place. If you lower the pan and the filter is sitting in the pan, it's suspect. If it's a black filter, it's extra suspect.
Expect to see a little debris in the pan, and a little metal paste on the magnet. That's normal. If it looks like glittery metalflake paint, you've got problems. Remove the spin on filter. There's a donut shaped magnet that sits on top. Paste on that is normal too. I've seen so much metal junk on this filter that it'll restrict flow into the filter, and that's definitely abnormal.
Replace both filters and clean the magnets. Don't forget the donut magnet (really easy to do). If it's been a while since a fluid change, I'd just go ahead and get fresh fluid. It needs to meet Allison 295 specs. We use Shell Transyn 295. The codes will stay in history until cleared, but if they're not active, they won't affect shifting.
The pan filters come with a pink/orange seal on the neck. Make sure the old one comes out of the transmission case. Just shove the neck in the hole and slap the pan on before the filter has a chance to fall off.
The pan gasket is reusable. Avoid the temptation to blob sealant or RTV all over it.
Generic DPR malfunction code. Same truck, right?
Does 12v exist at any of the wires going to the ignition switch? The black/blue wire should be hot all the time.
If not, check the STA SW fuse in the cab fuse panel. Is there 12v at each leg of the fuse? Don't remove the fuse, instead use a test light to probe the two tiny exposed metal bits on the face of the fuse. If that's good, go down to the external fuse box. Do the same thing to the MAIN 1 40A fuse.
If there is power at the blue/black wire, turn the key to ACC. The white/green wire should have 12v. Turn to ON. White/green and Black/Yellow should have 12v. In START, Black/Yellow and White/Red should have power.
It is safe to check these things with a regular 12v test light.
Check each of these things and report back.
Is it possible that the batteries are in backward? I was looking at the wiring diagram and some stuff should still work if the polarity was reversed.
The cables closest to the frame are positive, and the outermost ones are negative.
It is the 2011 Hino 268. I have 7 of these trucks and having a tough time with them right now. The CEL just showed up few days ago and disappeared. It came again now and would stay there. I had the code read and it said Burner Malfunction. Could i do something to fix it or does it needs to go back to the dealer?
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I just got the oil changed and the filter replaced recently. I will have the pan taken and internal filter replaced if the light comes on again.
If the new filter was spun on without being filled, the momentary loss of pressure can cause funky codes. This is probably what caused it, and if so, there's no reason to worry.
This makes a lot more sense. This code is a generic BURNER malfunction code. This code is what the engine ECU spits out when the BCU requests a check engine light. No generic scan tool will access the BCU.
Troubleshooting this without the dealer software is difficult, if not impossible. But you mentioned you have seven of them with similar problems. Are they all having problems with regens? If all seven are having problems with regens, then there are probably some driver-related things that need to be sorted out.
Since your check engine light is on, it's probably too late to attempt anything right now. The fact that the light was coming and going makes me think it was having multiple lost flame events. How long have manual regens been taking? Have they been approaching 45-60 min?
If the trucks have had the blue ignitors put in them and have had the ECU and BCU reflashed, then there are only a couple of things you can do without wasting a ton of money throwing parts at it.
Open the hood. Take off the right front fender. You will see two spark plug wires. Carefully unplug them. Unscrew the spark plugs. These are the ignitors. They will have an impressive amount of crap on them. If the tips are clean, they've probably been working. Wipe all the crap off of them and hose them down with brake cleaner. You can also cleanse them with fire, aka propane torch.
Look at the tiny braided line. Is it all twisted and kinked? If so, it's probably got a flow restriction. Pretty common. These HAVE to be installed while using a backing wrench. If not, they twist inside and are easily ruined.
There's a little thing the braided line screws into , between the two ignitors. Remove it. This is the atomizer nozzle. It will have a huge pile of junk built up on it's face. This is normal. But those tiny little holes are easily clogged. DON'T wipe the face off, as this will mash carbon into the holes and it's impossible to get out. Instead, use some good carburetor cleaner like Berkebile 2+2 or Berryman's Chemtool to spray through the threaded end out. Another thing that works well is an ultrasonic cleaner. harbor Freight sells one for around $100. It works fairly well. I have one at work, and this is what I use it for. A few minutes swimming around in that thing will knock carbon off the face and out of the holes. Or you can simply replace the nozzle.
There's a thermocouple in the burner, right above the nozzle. Remove it. If you hear a "CLANG!" and the thermocouple won't go back in the hole, the burner mantle has broken and needs to be replaced. This is fairly rare, I've only seen it once. The thermocouple is often suspect if nothing else is obvious. If you have a truck come in with long manual regen times and it's not getting anywhere, replace this thermocouple and clean the ignitors and atomizer nozzle. That's about all you can reasonably do. There are a couple other things that can flake out, but they're much harder to prove without the software.
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Burner stuff, continued.
There's a really large braided line there too. Impossible to miss. The thing that it screws into at the top is the CAV, or combustion air valve. This gets air from the turbo and provides fresh air to the burner. Oil from the intake tract gets in it and swells the o-ring inside. Eventually the o-ring breaks and jams the valve shut.
You can test it with a 12v source and low pressure, high volume air (like a vacuum cleaner outlet or something). Turn it on and off, it should allow air to pass through when on and stop all air when it's off. Test it 30-50 times. If it's messed up, might as well take it apart and post pics of the guts, right? The o-ring seals are not sold separately, you'll either have to fix it yourself or replace the valve.
There's a really large braided line there too. Impossible to miss. The thing that it screws into at the top is the CAV, or combustion air valve. This gets air from the turbo and provides fresh air to the burner. Oil from the intake tract gets in it and swells the o-ring inside. Eventually the o-ring breaks and jams the valve shut.
You can test it with a 12v source and low pressure, high volume air (like a vacuum cleaner outlet or something). Turn it on and off, it should allow air to pass through when on and stop all air when it's off. Test it 30-50 times. If it's messed up, might as well take it apart and post pics of the guts, right? The o-ring seals are not sold separately, you'll either have to fix it yourself or replace the valve.
The 4 hino I have are the pre emission one and haven't had much issue with them. The 2010 and 2011 are the one I just purchased recently and have been disaster.
I do have the Hino Bowie software and the nexis Usb link. That is what I used to read the code. The P141A code was there twice. One was active and the other was inactive. I did try doing the manual regen and it kept on giving an error. I did do a regen last week which took about 15 minutes.
I do have the Hino Bowie software and the nexis Usb link. That is what I used to read the code. The P141A code was there twice. One was active and the other was inactive. I did try doing the manual regen and it kept on giving an error. I did do a regen last week which took about 15 minutes.
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