Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.
- Thread starter greasytshirt
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- 2016 hino
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High rail pressure
Low rail pressure
CAN network code. Clean all the grounds, especially left rear cab to frame. Take down to bare metal
The last one I think is engine overeheat. The parts of the radiator you can see will look clean. The parts you can't will be absolutely filthy. Unbolt condensor, move aside. Remove CAC. Soak with cleaner, hose out with garden hose. Pressure washing will destroy radiator. Gentle compressed air to remove the rest of the debris. Make sure fan clutch works.
The first two codes in conjunction usually mean the suction control valve on the front of the injwection pump is sticking. Dealer will need numbers off the pump. 5mm hex, easy to strip. Save the old bolts, replacing this is difficult, you will drop bolts.
Erase codes by going b ack to the inactive codes menu, hold mode and push down on the toggle at the same time, , hold until screen changes. See if newtwork code returns. They usually mean nothing, but occasionally mean something on a CAN network is fried. Clean grounds first 95% of the time this is the cause.
Has this truck ever had the turbocharger replaced? U1123 is a network communication error with the VNT controller on the turbo. I just now looked it up. It's unusual, I've only seen it once. P0045 is the code most are familiar with when the VNT gets stuck or can't move through it's full range. U1123 means an electrical failure.
Definitely clean up all the grounds, especially the cab to frame ground on the left rear corner of the cab. This ground is the one that the ecu grounds through. Clear the codes and drive the truck. If U1123 returns, you've got a problem. That would definitely cause improper or no regens.
P0087/P0088 may inhibit regens too, but it doesn't sound like any of these codes are active. Hopefully they stay that way.
Has the ITV been modified? Is it in good shape? If you've called the dealer, does your truck fall under the A8440/A8510 recalls?
Thanks for your help. After sand blasting the tone rings,and breaking loose the abs sensors, and adjusting the sensors. The abs light has stayed off. I called the HINO dealer and asked for the TSB bulletin on ABS system. She informed me that TSB bulletins were for dealers info only. Thanks again for your help.
I guess I shouldn't be surprised by the dealers response, but I'm glad your abs problems appear to be solved.
How does the truck run?
When started cold, does the engine make a ruckus? Knocking, clatter, rough idle, sounds like it's misfiring? If so, how long does this last? A few seconds? Does it behave correctly only after it's completely warmed up? Does it run like crap all the time?
Take off the black hose between the intercooler and the intake manifold. Look inside the intake. You'll be looking at a throttle plate. Grab the plate and move it all around. Is the plate tight on the shaft, or are the screws loose? Can you move the plate in any direction other than opening and shutting the valve? There should be no play at all. There should be three holes drilled into the bottom of the plate, 3mm diameter, 8mm from the bottom edge. Do these holes exist? If not, take the throttle body (the intake throttle valve, or ITV) off of the engine and drill those three holes in it. I described how to do this a few posts ago. Also look at the "Hino Turbo" thread; I posted a picture.
When watching the DPR graph on the dash, does it suddenly jump up 2 or more bars at once? If so, check the DPF temperature sensor connectors, on the harness side, especially the front one, for breaks in the wire. You know how when a fusible link melts, if you gently pull on the wire and it stretches because the wire is broken inside? Kind of the same thing here, but the wire hasn't melted, it just broke because of vibration. These circuits might have to be load tested to determine if they're good or not.
When you had it manually regen'd, did they adjust anything? Has this truck had the A8440-A8510 recalls done on it? If so, they should have adjusted the exhaust brake. If not, have these recalls done. They are free. If neither of those is the case, the exhaust brake still has to be adjusted right, and the only possible way to do it involves using the factory diagnostic software.
How many miles does it take for the DPR graph to hit three bars? How many miles until it's crying for a manual regen? It sounds like it can't do an auto regen. Can it successfully do a manual regen?
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Both the recalls have been performed on the truck. The trucks drives fine. There is rattling noise when i start the truck in the morning but it disappears once the it warms up. The truck is sitting at the dealer at the moment as they would be inspecting it out tomorrow as i am out of town for two days. I will post back once i hear from the dealer tomorrow. From what the dealer told me over the phone before getting the truck dropped off was that it might need a new DPR filter and injectors.
It might. But unless they are absolutely terrible, it should still regen.
The dealer should have checked the injectors at the time of the recall if there was any question about their integrity. If they were found to be bad, you'd have been asked to replace them if your DPF was replaced during the recall if you wanted it to stay under warranty.
In any case, if the truck runs pretty well, your regen problem isn't caused by injectors. If the recalls were done correctly, the exhaust brake should have been adjusted. ITV sticking is the next likely cause (drilling the holes in it fixes the sticking unless it's damaged or worn).
How many miles does it take for the DPR graph to hit three bars? How many miles until it's crying for a manual regen? It sounds like it can't do an auto regen. Can it successfully do a manual regen?
When watching the DPR graph on the dash, does it suddenly jump up 2 or more bars at once?
I bought this truck in Mid December and haven't driven it a lot due to the holidays. When I started to use it in beginning Of January the check engine light came on while driving. I did turn off the truck and back on but the light would stay. The truck runs fine but the light stays on. I had the code read and cleared and DPR manually regenerated. Since I did not drive it a lot, the DPR regenerate light did not come on.
P2002 will not affect drivability unless the differential pressure across the DPF gets enormous. Then it might get a little sluggish. Eventually the DPF outlet blows out, destroying it, but the truck continues to run fine. It'll continue to set the check engine light because it'll recognize that something is wrong.
It sounds like the truck has a problem doing automatic regens. Since power seems unaffected, the ITV is probably not at fault. The exhaust brake isn't activated during an auto regen, so that's not the issue either. Since no other drivability issue is present, I'm assuming that there's a problem with either the DPF inlet or outlet temp sensors, or the differential pressure sensor. Since the recall was just done on it, the technician may have had to remove and inspect the DPF. This would involve unplugging the temp sensors. The connectors can get pretty stuck. If the harness was getting yanked on, a wire at the connector, already weakened by vibration (a known problem), the wire could have broken and is making a very tenuous connection.
This is all a wild guess of course, since I'm not there in person.
Do the itv. Have them modify the new one. Ask them to graph the scv test and email you the picture. Post it here. Alternately, ask them to open a case with tech assist, have them graph the scv test and get their opinion. You don't need cups unless there's evidence of leakage, or if they are corroded inside, or have hd combustion gases leak past.
The rough cold startr canbe from either injectors or itv, so m/aybe do itv first and see if it behaves.
I hate typing on a phone.
Zippochips
Rookie Expediter
Had one frozen battery so replaced both batteries went to go try to start it. Have no dash lights no ignition power. Will not crank. I have headlights turn signals brake lights and interior lighting. I checked all fuses. Look fine. What could be my issue?
Zippochips
Rookie Expediter
2009 Hino 338
Did you check the fuse box on the outside of the truck? It's probably to the rear of the battery box. There are some high current fuses in there. Sounds like you popped one.
A quick heads up: A couple of these bolt into place. They look like they should unplug, but they don't. You'll have to separate the box into a few layers to get to the fuse bolts. Why they do this, I don't know. A few Japanese car manufacturers do this stuff, and it makes a 10 second action last 20 minutes instead.
I will be checking with Hino in regards to the injector replacement as I found that they had extended the warranty on the injectors to 5years/unlimited mileage. The dealer was unable to confirm it. I have a quote from the Hino dealer in regards to as what needs to be replaced. I could message you the quote.
Also on the 2007 Hino 268, I have the transmission light come on sometimes putting the truck in limp mode. I have to shut the truck down and restart it after few minutes and it appears to run fine. Looks like the transmission oil get heated.
Also on the 2007 Hino 268, I have the transmission light come on sometimes putting the truck in limp mode. I have to shut the truck down and restart it after few minutes and it appears to run fine. Looks like the transmission oil get heated.
Sure, send me the quote. I meant to ask about injector warranty earlier. We always check and we always do it under warranty if possible.
On the 2007, does the ABS light come on, followed by the check trans light a little while later? An active ABS fault will unlock the torque converter. It overheats a short time later. But a number of other things can cause it too. Need to hook a scan tool of some sort to the 9-pin round connector and see what pops up.
Ever leave the truck in gear with the engine running and the park brake set? That'll do it too.
Hey mate
Did a country run here in North of western australia. Temps reached 38 degrees Celsius during the day so pretty hot. I was sitting on 103 klm hour and noticed temp started rising. Needle got to about half way before I decided to drop down to 90 klm per hour and that dropped temp down.
It's a hino fd 500 2013 model with 70,000 klm only.
Normally needle really doesn't move so was suprised and given that I was 200 klm from anywhere didn't want to push and see if it got hotter. Surely should be able to sit on 105 klm hour without the worry of ver heating in a year old truck?
Did a country run here in North of western australia. Temps reached 38 degrees Celsius during the day so pretty hot. I was sitting on 103 klm hour and noticed temp started rising. Needle got to about half way before I decided to drop down to 90 klm per hour and that dropped temp down.
It's a hino fd 500 2013 model with 70,000 klm only.
Normally needle really doesn't move so was suprised and given that I was 200 klm from anywhere didn't want to push and see if it got hotter. Surely should be able to sit on 105 klm hour without the worry of ver heating in a year old truck?
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