Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.
- Thread starter greasytshirt
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- 2016 hino
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Can you tell where the vibration is coming from? Is it rpm or speed dependent? Manual or auto transmission? If auto, is the ABS light on?
Oil leaks are not uncommon. The pan gaskets sometimes leak. More commonly the oil cooler leaks, it'll leak both oil and coolant. The head gasket also likes to leak oil, coolant, or both from the right rear corner of the head, right ahead of the nook. Hose everything down with brake cleaner, wipe it down, more brake clean, then fire it up and get up in there with a strong flashlight. Take the RF fender and the splash shield off for better access.
I think you can rule out the engine. That sounds like a driveline problem. Check to see that there's not excessive play in the u-joints. Check the hanger bearings. Make sure the yokes on the rear end and on the transmission are tight. Also, has it been towed recently? Make sure the driveshaft is in phase. If not, that will tear up stuff pretty quickly. One spline off can cause vibration and damage.
Yes. Air brake trucks will require removing the brake drum. Auto Trans trucks cannot be driven long with the ABS light on, either. A kit has just been released to keep the torque converter from unlocking with the ABS light on.
Just found out that the block is shot, not sure what they are going to do now, waiting for the dealer to give them prices.
I said kit, but it's mostly just a relay and some rewiring to segregate ecu inputs. Either you need new rotors or the wheel bearings are loose. You don't have to use the OEM meritor rotors.
Edit: When the light comes on, push the sensor all the way in until it hits the rotor. Did it move more than a sixteenth or two? If the wheel bearings are loose, the tone ring can reach over and touch the sensor, pushing it out. This happens over and over until it sets a code for the air gap being too large. When the tone ring has simply eroded away, you get codes for erratic signal. While this is a helpful check, it's not totally accurate because the sensor air gap will always be greater than the tallest tooth in the tone ring.
Some stuff that I've done to clean up tone rings on rotors include throwing the entire rotor into a shot blaster (which annihilates all rust). Then it's a trip to the flywheel grinder to flatten all the high spots. No one got charged for this experimentation, I did it during my lunch break one day. Yes, it worked. Is it labor-cost feasible? Doubt it.
Next to the 9 pin diagnostic connector is a button marked "ABS". If you push it, the ABS light will flash a 2 digit code at you. You can then diagnose it yourself. I think coalminer knows how to reset the codes with the button but this is something that I honestly never do. I always hook the laptop with Meritor Wabco Toolbox software to it instead.
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I will sandblast input rings,and check wheel bearings. The ABS code that comes up is sensor gap. My ABS sensors seem stuck fast . I will have to take them off and try to loosen them up,to make them adjustable. This truck goes out on long trips and i just don't want to hurt transmission with ABS light coming on.Can you tell me where to get relay and how wiring is done? THANKS
The sensors seem to freeze into place if they haven't been moved in forever. They can be exceptionally difficult to remove without destroying them. Take the whole bracket off that they slide into and start soaking it in penetrating oil. Hopefully it will start loosening up after some light tapping and twisting. If you get it out in one piece, pull the little cage out that holds it in and sandblast the bracket too. Then grease the cage and the bore in the bracket before reassembling. I can't help but wonder if the sensor was adjusted when the brakes were last looked at. Hard to believe the sensor has completely seized in 5 months.
Stop by your local dealer and ask for a copy of Technical Service Bulletin SB-14-017. They can get it off Hinonet. You'll need the two relays and wiring harness called out in the TSB. This is not something I can describe adequately in type.
Edit: wrong TSB.
For those of you that are looking, there are three different Technical Service Bulletins to fix this ABS/Trans issue. It's a matter of installing a harness/relay socket, a relay or two (depends on year), routing an input to the ecu, and bypassing an output from the TCU to the ECU. The wire coloring and stuff changes on each generation of vehicle. Instead of trying to describe it, go to your dealer, have them look it up on Hinonet and print you a copy. The part numbers you need are listed on the bulletin.
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http://www.meritorwabco.com/MeritorWABCO_document/mm39.pdf
Here is the link to the pdf that will describe how to do the self diagnostic test. It will show you how to clear the codes but that really does not matter as the system resets itself every time you cycle the key.
You will probably find a sensor air gap or circuit problem, if it is the latter trace the wires to that sensor and you will probably find a place where the wire rubbed the frame and grounded out. That happened to me once.
The part number for the rotor is 900906, search that number on eBay you can get them for $95 each with free shipping. The best place to get the pads is believe it or not, autozone part number dg769sd 49.99 and it includes the hardware.
Here is the link to the pdf that will describe how to do the self diagnostic test. It will show you how to clear the codes but that really does not matter as the system resets itself every time you cycle the key.
You will probably find a sensor air gap or circuit problem, if it is the latter trace the wires to that sensor and you will probably find a place where the wire rubbed the frame and grounded out. That happened to me once.
The part number for the rotor is 900906, search that number on eBay you can get them for $95 each with free shipping. The best place to get the pads is believe it or not, autozone part number dg769sd 49.99 and it includes the hardware.
How do those pads hold up over time?
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When it comes to the ones I have bought for my cars pretty well, will have to monitor how the ones on the truck last, have only put 10k or so on them since I have installed them.
Just looked it up and for 2008 it shows the same pad but no rotors. Now this is with hydraulic brakes right?
It should be the same as yours all the way around.
Severe duty pads are available at Napa. Possibly rotors too. Truckpro and the like should have no problem getting these parts either.
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macpl
Rookie Expediter
Hey there I'm back with a quick question regarding power. I turn my hino 358 off and radio stays on. I have managed to get the radio off and it stayed off for two days. I come to my truck today in the morning and radio is on. Faulty ignition switch on steering column?
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Hi I have been having some issues with my 2008 Hino 338. The truck loses power when the engine is working harder or it seems to be hotter outside and this causes the check engine light to come on. Sometimes it feels as though the truck wont make it up some of the hills it climbs. I am getting the P0087 code and the truck was recently brought to a dealer in the fall for recalls so everything is up to date recall wise. What my driver will do is turn the vehicle off and back on and the check engine light will go off and the truck has power again. Hoping to fix this in house to avoid the truck being pulled off the road and sent an hour away to a dealer. Thank you.
Original radio, or aftermarket? I've seen some of the original ones do some stupid stuff.
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