Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.

Status
Not open for further replies.

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Hey greasytshirt I am in a bind with my 08' hino 145 with a 4.7l 4 cyl dealer just replaced intercooler and turbo and dpf muffler I'm having a issue after you drive truck for 5 mins the check eng light comes on with a. P0087 fuel rail low pressure codes. Noticed that filter was missing from crankcase vent chamber and am at a loss right now.. New fuel filter was put on and fuel tank is cleaned also replaced fuel rail pressure sensor and still have the same issue dealer could not fix it and gotta have this truck going for my fleet any ideas?
Those trucks didn't have a crankcase vent filter. You could add one by getting the cap off of an 11-up truck, and pulling a plastic thing out of your breather housing and throwing it away. Install cap and filter off later era truck, good to go.

P0087: Take one of the banjo bolts out of the fuel filter housing. Remove the banjo fitting from the fuel line. Disconnect the fuel inlet banjo bolt and tube from the injection pump. and install the banjo bolt and fitting from the filter housing. This is your test port.
Put a boat fuel tank full of clean diesel in the cab of the truck, run the inlet and return lines to this tank. Find a big hill and hold the truck to the floor while you accelerate all the way to the top. Bonus points if you're running heavy. The point is to run the truck with fuel going directly to the pump with no restriction whatsoever, including the fuel filter. If you successfully make it up the hill several times without going into limp mode for low fuel pressure, then it's safe to conclude there's a fuel restriction somewhere in the supply side. Check every single fitting and adapter on the primary fuel system, including the banjo bolts, check valve, etc on the filter housing, and the 90 degree fittings screwed into the top of the fuel tank. I have seen junk in every fitting. Every single fitting is suspect, so check them all. Some trucks have a screen inside the inlet of the injection pump too, look inside with a flashlight.

If the truck does take a steaming dump, put your hand on the small metal line banjo-bolted to the front of the fuel rail. Is it hot? Does it feel like liquid is rushing through it while the engine is running and actively in limp mode (the limiter resets if the engine is cut off)? If so, the rail limiter valve has popped off. This means there was a spike in pressure (P0088 usually accompanies this) that caused the limiter to pop off. This is usually caused by a sticking SCV (suction control valve, aka fuel pressure regulator, located in top of injection pump). If the limiter pops off too many times it gets damaged. Consider replacing the SCV and the limiter. But first, call your dealer and ask them to prepare you a DX report (if they hooked their computer to it, it saved a copy). What I want to know is what the max fuel temperature is. If we're approaching a number over 210 degrees or so, the injection pump has a high rate of internal leakage and may fail sooner rather than later (most of the ones that fail have high fuel temps recorded). If this temperature is below this range, replace the scv and rail limiter. You need to get the part and serial number off of the injection pump to get the correct SCV (prepare for the parts dept to screw this up). Be aware that the limiter has a thin copper washer between it and the rail that must be replaced, and you need a torque wrench to install it correctly. Something ridiculous sounding, like 108 ft-lbs. I'll have to look that up, that number is inaccurate until confirmed.

Edit: Don't go unscrewing stuff on the fuel system of these things with the engine running. Fuel pressures peak at around 29,000 psi, which is plenty enough to inject diesel into your bloodstream. Do a Google Image search of 'high pressure injection injury' for an overdose of nightmare fuel.
 
Last edited:

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
O and by the way truck has had 4 turbos put on it within the last two years...

What the hell. How are they failing??

If they are repeatedly coding for U0073, check the ground wire on the VNT connector for high resistance to ground. Check for proper CANH and CANL voltage, check for proper power supply. While you're at it, aggressively debride every ground connection on the truck, clean up battery cables, and replace batteries that fail load tests.
If the ecu is coding P0045 but not U0073, and DXII diagnostic software can't move the VNT controller, and you have good harness connection and the ground path has low resistance, then you have a bad VNT controller.
There have been reports of failure of remanufactured VNT controllers from Hino, but not on their new turbos.

Enough of electrical. Why did you have to get the intercooler replaced?
Were they trying to fix a regen problem? If they replaced the DPF, it sounds like it.
Tell them that they need to make sure that the ITV is not sticking shut. I previously advised NOT to do the following, but it appears to work just fine: Modify the ITV on a four cylinder truck just like that on the six cylinder. 08-10 model years only. I've described how multiple times in this thread.

Take it back and tell them to make damn sure the exhaust brake is set correctly. While they're at it, do an SCV test to see if the injectors are any good.

PM me the VIN. Now I'm curious.

Edit: Dammmn, why is that word censored? Pfft.
 

lead driver

New Recruit
Fleet Manager
New to the thread and new to Hinos. I'm mechanically incline but not a mechanic and definitely not a diesel mechanic. We took our 08 to the shop and they said that they found 10 bar on DPF graph, code P2002 for DPF malfunction, code for water in fuel alarm. How common are these issues and is there a recall that will limit the cost to repair.
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
New to the thread and new to Hinos. I'm mechanically incline but not a mechanic and definitely not a diesel mechanic. We took our 08 to the shop and they said that they found 10 bar on DPF graph, code P2002 for DPF malfunction, code for water in fuel alarm. How common are these issues and is there a recall that will limit the cost to repair.
This is a common problem, but there is more than one possible cause.
Common things that can cause this:
Bad fuel injectors
Turbocharger failure
Intake throttle valve failure or sticking
Exhaust brake out of adjustment.
The A8440/A8510 recalls may apply to your truck, call your local dealer, give them the VIN.

Injectors are often the root cause. They're around $500 each, all of them are replaced at the same time. It takes about 4 hours. The calibration codes have to be entered into the ecu.

What is the truck used for?
 

lead driver

New Recruit
Fleet Manager
This is a common problem, but there is more than one possible cause.
Common things that can cause this:
Bad fuel injectors
Turbocharger failure
Intake throttle valve failure or sticking
Exhaust brake out of adjustment.
The A8440/A8510 recalls may apply to your truck, call your local dealer, give them the VIN.

Injectors are often the root cause. They're around $500 each, all of them are replaced at the same time. It takes about 4 hours. The calibration codes have to be entered into the ecu.

What is the truck used for?

The truck is used for local pick up and deliveries and currently at 147,846 miles.
The other issues we experienced was loss of power and sputtering.
 

Chevy_boy321

New Recruit
Mechanic
Hey man thanks a lot for the reply unfortunately I have a snap on heavy scanner but have no hino software that allows me to scan it so I can't monitor my fuel temps but the vin number for the truck is 5pvna6jm382s50128 thanks again man and I'm checking all my fuel fittings now for restrictions
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
H I'm checking all my fuel fittings now for restrictions

Have you found any debris yet?

If the symptoms are still there after checking for restrictions, don't jump over to the high pressure side until you've run the truck off of an aux fuel source. If you confirm that everything in your test setup is clean, and the truck fails to perform, then you can start to question the high pressure side of the fuel system. If the truck runs great, everything between the pump inlet fitting and the fuel tank has to be inspected.
 

Vendediesel

New Recruit
Fleet Manager
The #1 thing that comes to mind is the ITV is sticking shut. Intake throttle valve. Left side of truck, it's what the intercooler outlet tube is connected to. Pull off the intercooler outlet hose. Reach in and grab the throttle plate. Is the throttle loose on the shaft, or are the shaft bushings worn out? If so, take it off and throw it away, get a new one, and drill three holes in the bottom of the plate, 6.5 mm from the bottom edge. One in center bottom, two at 20 degrees from either side. Look for the "Hino Turbo" thread, I posted a pic.

Yes, you're drilling holes in a new part. No, I don't know why it doesn't already come like that. If your ITVs are in good shape, then you can reuse after drilling. All of your trucks, UD included if it has a Hino engine, should have this done.

Then make sure the exhaust brakes are set correctly. Crucial for successful manual regen. Dealer software needed to accomplish.


Edit: this info pertains only to the 2009 trucks. 2008-2010 had ITVs. Earlier they did not. Any check engine lights, diagnostic codes from the older trucks?

Did that, and replaced turbos with new ones from dealer and on one truck replaced injectors as well. No CEL on any of them, just that wicked hard miss with occasional heavy white smoke. Yes, UD has the J08 motor, but limited to 220hp. Replacing the turbo on the UD fixed the problem, but hasn't done a thing on the Hino's. The dealer can't figure it out.
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Did that, and replaced turbos with new ones from dealer and on one truck replaced injectors as well. No CEL on any of them, just that wicked hard miss with occasional heavy white smoke. Yes, UD has the J08 motor, but limited to 220hp. Replacing the turbo on the UD fixed the problem, but hasn't done a thing on the Hino's. The dealer can't figure it out.
At this point, anything I offer you will just be conjecture. There are some that I just have to hook a computer to and drive around until it gets pissed off.

If you're ever halfway up the east coast, I'd be happy to look.
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Model year? I forgot what you're driving. 11-15 conventionals have a wheeled adjuster, turned with an 8mm socket.
 

JRRepublic

New Recruit
Fleet Owner
I have a 2007 Nissan UD 2600. I know its not a Hino but I think the engines are similar and was wondering if you were able to help.

I'm getting power loss on cold start after the truck has been sitting over night. After the truck warms up it it drives a lot better, still slightly less power at lower rpms but upper rpm range feels normal. I can still pull a full load up to full speed when the engine is hot, but when its cold I can barely craw out of a loading dock ramp empty. There are no codes and no pending codes (scanned with PC-Consult2 and d-bridge). Any idea what it could be?
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
I have a 2007 Nissan UD 2600. I know its not a Hino but I think the engines are similar and was wondering if you were able to help.

I'm getting power loss on cold start after the truck has been sitting over night. After the truck warms up it it drives a lot better, still slightly less power at lower rpms but upper rpm range feels normal. I can still pull a full load up to full speed when the engine is hot, but when its cold I can barely craw out of a loading dock ramp empty. There are no codes and no pending codes (scanned with PC-Consult2 and d-bridge). Any idea what it could be?
Can you post a pic of the engine? Some had hino engines.
 
Last edited:

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Sounds like the intake throttle valve is sticking shut.

Then again, an 07 may not have an itv.

Does this truck have more than one switch on the brake pedal? If there is one that engages with the pedal released, check to see if it fully engages.
 

JRRepublic

New Recruit
Fleet Owner
Sounds like the intake throttle valve is sticking shut.

Then again, an 07 may not have an itv.

Does this truck have more than one switch on the brake pedal? If there is one that engages with the pedal released, check to see if it fully engages.

Yea no ITV. the difference with the UD is they have air pressure switches for the brakes instead of physical switches like the Hino. I'll check to make sure they arent shorted and the ecu isnt getting a brake signal.
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Yea no ITV. the difference with the UD is they have air pressure switches for the brakes instead of physical switches like the Hino. I'll check to make sure they arent shorted and the ecu isnt getting a brake signal.
On Hinos with air brakes, the service brake relay valve has a switch that will cause low power when it gets stuck in the on position. good possibility you're on the right track.

After that, I can pretty much just offer conjecture. It could be a LOT of things, but without hooking a computer to it and monitoring things while driving around, I can't tell you anything accurate.
 

JRRepublic

New Recruit
Fleet Owner
On Hinos with air brakes, the service brake relay valve has a switch that will cause low power when it gets stuck in the on position. good possibility you're on the right track.

After that, I can pretty much just offer conjecture. It could be a LOT of things, but without hooking a computer to it and monitoring things while driving around, I can't tell you anything accurate.

I checked the brake switch and checked the computer data for the brake sw and it is not stuck and the ecu is reading the brake switch properly.

Got a chance to drive it this morning while logging on the computer. From looking at the logs I can only tell that I am not getting any boost before coolant temp reaches 70F
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0144.JPG
    IMG_0144.JPG
    489.3 KB · Views: 25
  • test.txt
    46.2 KB · Views: 5

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
I checked the brake switch and checked the computer data for the brake sw and it is not stuck and the ecu is reading the brake switch properly.

Got a chance to drive it this morning while logging on the computer. From looking at the logs I can only tell that I am not getting any boost before coolant temp reaches 70F
Interesting. Keep in mind that Hino uses two brake switches, one for the brake lights and one to aggravate people. Not sure if UD is the same.

I don't know if UD used the same programming or sourced their own ecu, and/or if the quirks are the same or not. I haven't seen low boost in relation to low ECT. With the ignition off I'd see if the VNT linkage can be moved or if it's stuck. See if egr valve behaves. Check the turbo for excessive shaft play. Check to see if the turbo shaft sticks when spun by hand.
 

JRRepublic

New Recruit
Fleet Owner
Interesting. Keep in mind that Hino uses two brake switches, one for the brake lights and one to aggravate people. Not sure if UD is the same.

I don't know if UD used the same programming or sourced their own ecu, and/or if the quirks are the same or not. I haven't seen low boost in relation to low ECT. With the ignition off I'd see if the VNT linkage can be moved or if it's stuck. See if egr valve behaves. Check the turbo for excessive shaft play. Check to see if the turbo shaft sticks when spun by hand.

UD uses 2 brake switches also but they are controlled by air pressure instead of mechanical switch like the Hino's. I checked both of them and checked the ecu state so I can rule out brake switch for sure.

UD uses the same programming as Hino. I use my UD software on the Hino trucks as well. The log I attached earlier shows that I'm getting target to actual is pretty close for the VNT and EGR. I've already checked the VNT linkage visually, that it movies when the truck is turned on. I'll check it again to see if I can move it by hand with the truck off. And check for shaft play and stickyness on the turbo.

I'm starting to suspect the turbo after looking at the logs a bit more. At wot when the engine is cold VNT is around 40% after its warmed up at wot VNT is +60%. Cant hear the turbo at all till after the truck is warmed up. My guess is they limit boost to lower when the engine is cold and the effect is more pronounced with a bad turbo.

Thanks for all your help so far.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top