sprinter fuel milage

panthervanman

Seasoned Expediter
I have a2003 sprinter that was getting 20mpg when I first got it and now for the past year plus, I can only get about 18mpg. I drive the same as always,I service it all the time,I've put new fuel injectors on it (cause the mechanic said they were dripping.) I thought that would do the trick but still only 18mpg....HELP Thks P-man
 

OntarioVanMan

Retired Expediter
Owner/Operator
Can't really help ya only make you feel worse...our 2005 158 highboy last 4 fill-ups averaged about 24.2 mpg even with a 2200 and 800 lb load thru vermont and Upstate NY.
 

talkinghorse43

Expert Expediter
Maybe low compression? How's your oil consumption? My '02 with 98k miles still averages ~22.5 and blows a quart of oil into the charge (& out of the EGR) in 15k miles.
 

Marty

Veteran Expediter
My 2006 Sprinter is strange. I get a 7mpg difference at different speeds. Everyone else I've talked to gets a 2 or 3mpg defference.
17mpg@75mph
19mpg@70mph
21mpg@65mph
24mpg@63mph
22mpg@60mph

Needless to say I travel at 63mph as much as I can.
 

OntarioVanMan

Retired Expediter
Owner/Operator
Marty.is that allowing for the 2-3 mph the speedo is off? Ya did know most Sprinters the speedo is incorrect?

I believe the answer I got to that is because over in Germany the engineers designed the drive train to run the 14" tires but they changed to the 16" over here. Bur never made the adjustments.

shesh what happened at 60mph? only 22mpg?
 

terryandrene

Veteran Expediter
Safety & Compliance
US Coast Guard
It seems to me that a new 225/75 R16 (91.96" circumference) tire will travel 10.9% farther than a new 225/70 R14 (82.9" circ.) tire for an equal number of revolutions.

Am I wrong in thinking that 16" tires with engine RPM's being the same will produce 10.9% better fuel milage than a 14" wheel?
 

talkinghorse43

Expert Expediter
A couple other possibilities.

If the EGR valve is dirty it could result in not quite enough oxygen in the charge to burn all the fuel. I take mine ('02) off and clean it every 30k miles.

If the tranny torque converter doesn't lock, that could negatively affect mileage. If you're going down the interstate and lift off the accelerator, the rpms shouldn't drop immediately but should drop at the rate your speed drops. Same when you push down on the accelerator. If you get an immediate drop/rise in rpms I'd suspect a bad/inoperative torque converter clutch.

Seems the Sprinter's sweet spot for mpg is ~50 mph actual, so the closer you can get to that and still do your job, the better. I don't like to go that slow - I run 70 indicated (65 actual).
 

RLENT

Veteran Expediter
>Am I wrong in thinking that 16" tires with engine RPM's
>being the same will produce 10.9% better fuel milage than a
>14" wheel?

I dunno if you are correct on that or not - there's probably some design/performance efficiency thing going on there that may or may not make it entirely directly translatable - one thing is for sure though: if the speed is off (and it seems to be, from my comparision of it to our onboard GPS- about 5 mph) then anyone using the odometer to figure their mpg is using inaccurate data.
 

panthervanman

Seasoned Expediter
thks for all your help. I have got a new egr,and i do use at least a qt of oil every 10,000mls. I've got a brand new torque converter and flex plate. I will look at my rpms next time i'm out on the road. Again thks jim
 

Turtle

Administrator
Staff member
Retired Expediter
The Sprinter computer is programmed so that, basically, you can have an accurate odometer and an inaccurate speedometer, or an accurate speedometer and an inaccurate odometer. It all depends on whether your Sprinter's ECM was programmed for 15" or 16" wheels.

If you Sprinter has 15" wheels, for example, and you have an accurate speedometer, then your odometer will be showing a few percent fewer miles than you actually drove (which is kind of a good thing if it's still under warranty hehe). On the same Sprinter, change out the wheels to 16" wheels and magically the odometer will be accurate and the speedometer will show a few percent higher than you are actually traveling.

In the US (and Canada), an accurate odometer is more important (legally) than an accurate speedometer, which is why they ECM's are programmed as they are. Apparently, there is no way to program the computer so that both are accurate.

As for the table above showing the various MPG levels at different speeds, that's just about right for most of them. Even the Sprinter brochure at the dealer will show nearly those same differences at different speeds. IIRC, the Sprinter is rated at 28 MPG at 55 MPH, 22 MPG at 65MPH, and 18MPG at 75 MPH. Those who say they are getting only a 3 MPG difference between 55 and 75 are ly..., uhm, well, they don't have accurate records.

As for the 2 MPG difference between now and in the past, there's a plethora (ya like that? hehe) of reasons that could be the cause. One is under-inflated tires. Under inflated tires will give you a smoother ride, but tires properly inflated with nitrogen will give you 2-3 MPG better fuel mileage. If on the driver's seat is says 55 PSI on the front and 80 PS on the back, then by golly, inflate them to 55 and 80. A lower inflation PSI not only kills fuel mileage, but totally destroys the weight rating of the tires, which is kind of important in the expediting business.

Get an empty weight ticket and compare it to a few years ago. If it's 200-300 pounds heavier now, because of added junk here and there over time, that can be part of the cause of the lower fuel mileage.

Using different brands, types (dino or synthetic) and viscosities of oil at each oil change will give you a hit on fuel mileage, too. If you've switched out oils many times of the years, then the best thing you can do for it is to switch to one kind of oil and always use that, no matter what. If it's had both dino and synthetic, then probably what I'd do is switch to Shell Rotella T Multigrade 15W-40 and never, ever use anything else in there again, with the possible exception of swapping out one quart of oil for one quart of Lucas oil stabilizer.

The initial fill at for Sprinters is Mobile 1 0W 40, and even the Mopar oil that the dealers use for Sprinter oil changes is the same Mobile 1 0W 40, even if the oil is Mopar branded with the Mopar part number. There is a rather long list of approved oils in the manual, and any of those should be fine. I do think it is interesting that in the Sprinter Service Manual, it mentions, by name, Mobile 1 0W 40 wherever it talks about oil changes. As in, "Use a good quality oil, like Mobile 1 0W 40, or one of the oils on the Approved Oils List."

The Maintenance ASSYST that most Sprinters has is designed for use with synthetic oil, with the Mobile 1 being what the Oil Quality Sensor is designed and calibrated to measure. If you change oil based on the Maintenance ASSYST, use synthetic oil, as it will not be accurate otherwise. Except, the only dino oil that the ASSYST is reasonably accurate with is the Shell Rotella T Multigrade 15W-40.

Air quality for diesel engines is much more critical than for gasoline burning engines, and a dirty air filter on the Sprinter can easily be the cause of a 2 MPG hit on fuel mileage.

I use 4 ounces of Howes Meaner Cleaner in every other tank (or 2 ounces in every tank) will keep the fuel lines, injectors and the EGR valve cleaner, which often results in an increase of 1 or 2 MPG. It will put back in some of the lost lubricity that the ULSD has taken away, which results in a quieter and smoother running engine. I also use 2-4 ounces (summer-winter) of Howes Diesel Treat in every tank. Many people swear by and use Power Service. I've used it, but you have to use more per tank, and it costs more per ounce, and I don't see the measurable difference in MPG that I see with Diesel Treat. YMMV.

To sum it up, first thing I'd do is get the the tires properly inflated to specs with Nitrogen. All other things being equal, nitrogen in your tired will give you 1-2 MPG more than with regularly air-inflated tires. They run cooler, and they stay inflated between 20,000 mile rotation cycles. Do keep in mind that if you have nitrogen in the tires, and your tires have different PSI requirements for front and back, you can't just go and have the tires rotated at just any ol' place, as when they are rotated the PSI of the front and rear tires will have to be changed once rotated, and you need nitrogen to do that.

After the tires, I'd take a long hard look at the oil changes, the history and types, brands and viscosity oil used, and make a decision as to which oil to stick with on a permanent basis.
 

OntarioVanMan

Retired Expediter
Owner/Operator
Great post Turtle.... plethora??? yeah like that!

Also I've experienced the difference in brands of fuel name brand to off brand makes a 1-2 mpg difference AND also DRIVER habits. Are you hard off the start line? over rev? pound the pedal on the on ramps? Are you a rabbit driver and hop light to light or do you try and time the lights?
Soooo many variables...Its like why are some people doing brakes jobs at 65,000 miles and in my case I still have 70% left at 157,000 miles?
Its not like they are bad drivers just different drivers.

back to the original post.

Dripping?? were the injectors shot? Maybe you only needed a new set of O-rings? And if ya don't mind was the cost of an injector?
 

talkinghorse43

Expert Expediter
"The initial fill at for Sprinters is Mobile 1 0W 40, and even the Mopar oil that the dealers use for Sprinter oil changes is the same Mobile 1 0W 40, even if the oil is Mopar branded with the Mopar part number."

If you're referring to the Mopar oil PN 04798231AD 15w40 MB spec 228.3 listed on p298 of the '06 owner's manual, I don't think that's Mobil 1 0w40. Looks more like a clone of Shell Rotella T Miltigrade.
 

OntarioVanMan

Retired Expediter
Owner/Operator
I've decided awhile back to stick to the Mobile 1 0w40 because I've heard of storys of engine failure cause people were trying to get as much mileage out of the replacement oil as the original oil and thats where thier problems began.
As a DC tech explained to me the MB engine has alot of small parts and if you don't do the oil changes on time the thickening and sludge will create major problems where as the 0w40 gives some lee way on overdue changes. He didn't say I couldn't change but just advised me of possible potential problems if I took the cheaper way out. And basically that what we are talking about Yes? Consider this if a 0w40 change is at 15,000 miles for $90 and a regular oil is at 5,000 $30...wheres the benefit???
I buy the 0w40 at AutoZone for about 6 bucks a quart x10= $60 oil filter =12.00 so thats $72.00-75.00. Oil change on the Sprinter is so easy a caveman could do it!!!*lol*
 

panthervanman

Seasoned Expediter
Some great post,thks.well I have driven the same way for as long as I had the van.I don't take off the line fast at all and as for as the brakes I had them replaced(fronts only)at about 220,000mls.I'm not sure on the tire pressure,I think they are all filled to the same pressure.The cost of the injector was 268.05 each,labor to do the five was285.00. As far as oil changes I bought a package deal that gave me 35 oil changes for a little over $450.I got 7 free from the dodge dealer who sold it to me and then I bought a book of 28,that is for the oil and filter(not the air filter)and labor>hell of a deal.So the oil that I use is what ever the dealer uses. I have it changed every 10,000 mls.I'm going to try real hard to slow down a bit,bet my right foot out weights my left by at least 10lbs!!!!:7 :7 :7 Thks again for the help.....P-MAN
 

OntarioVanMan

Retired Expediter
Owner/Operator
Good going on those brakes!! Fantastic! Now is that 10,000 miles actual or with the maintenaince Assyt??
 

Turtle

Administrator
Staff member
Retired Expediter
"If you're referring to the Mopar oil PN 04798231AD 15w40 MB spec 228.3 listed on p298 of the '06 owner's manual, I don't think that's Mobil 1 0w40. Looks more like a clone of Shell Rotella T Miltigrade."

Yeah, that Mopar part number is, actually, Shell Rotella T Multigrade 15W-40. That's for oil changes that aren't synthetic. For 2004 and older models, that's the preferred oil for non-synthetic long-life (extended) oil changes. It initially was, too, for the 2005, but then Mercedes changed their mind and recommend fully synthetic because of how the Oil Quality Sensor is now employed and because of a few changes to the engine versus the older odels. The initial fill at the plant in South Carolina for all 2005 models is the Mobile 1 0W 40, which is a 229.5 oil.

For synthetic oil changes at the dealer, the Mopar part number is 5127394-AA. The description should say "Oil 0W40 1081090". If it does, then it's that part number, and it's Mobile 1 0W 40 oil.

Incidentally, the "Mobile 1 SHC Formula MB" is nothing more than the Mobile 1 5W 40 and can also be used. If you are mostly in warmer areas, the 5W oil is recommended, and the 0W oil is recommended for colder areas. The key is that the same oil viscosity should be used year round for the Sprinter (and other MB engines of that type that use synthetic oil).

For use with the Maintenance ASSYST and an accurate Oil Quality Sensor, BM Sheet 229.5 (or 229.51) oil must be used. (For 2007's the 229.51 oils must be used.)
There aren't many on the 229.5 oils list:

Mobil 1 SuperSyn European Car Formula 0W-40
Pennzoil European Formula Ultra 5W-30
Quaker State European Formula Ultra 5W-30
Castrol Syntec European Formula 0W-30
Elf Excellium 0W-30
Mobil 1 ESP Formula M 5W-40 (for MY07+ diesel)
Valvoline SynPower MST 5W-30 (*) (for MY07+ diesel)

Here's a complete list of all the various MB sheet and recommended oils. Other oils do get added, so it's important to ignore all the API and SAE and other stuff except the MB 229.5 or 229.51 number. That's all that matters, the pick the oil weight within the 229.5 range that's best suited for your vehicle (for all expediters except those who never drive where it gets below 20 degrees, the 0W-40 will be better than the 5W-40).
http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html

But basically, if you use Shell Rotella T Multigrade 15W-40 for dino oil, and Mobile 1 0W-40 for synthetic, you're good to go. Anything on the list is fine, but again, pick one and stick to it.

In Europe, they build their cars and impose higher requirements on the type of oils that are used than we do here in the US and Canada. They have more of a multi-tier system within their specifications, whereas the API uses the lowest common denominator as a guideline. The API is the American Petroleum Institute, and they set the oil standard here. In Europe the oil standards are set by the Automotive Manufacturers Association (ACEA), and they have much more strict requirements for the oils based on an engine, usually by type (gas, diesel, turbo) then they take the ACEA standards and take it to the next level based on the specific engine that is manufactured. The oil is then formulated for the engine.

In other words, American engines are made, essentially, to fit within a range of the oils, and European oils are made specifically to fit the engines.

That's why it's so important to stick to the list. Always stick to the list.

For an American car, any ol' 15W-30 or 10-W-40 might work, but that's simply not the case with a European engine. That's also why, by and large, oil additives for European cars and trucks (like a Sprinter) is (a) not needed and (b) actually detrimental in some cases because the additives throw the oil out of specs. If you do use an oil additive, it needs to be one specifically for the oil you are using, and it needs to be approved by the manufacturer. Currently, even in Europe, there is no MB approved oil additive.

Below is a Web page that explains why the differences between American and European oils are so huge and so critical.
http://www.synthetic-oil-tech.com/d.cgi/1183092/american_engine_oils_harmful_european_engines.htm

Amsoil has only one MB 229.51 approved oil, which is the "European Car Formula Synthetic 5W-40 Motor Oil". And even on that page they tell you straight up that no oil additives are recommended for it.

Amsoil has no MB 229.5 0W-40 oil.
 

talkinghorse43

Expert Expediter
Good post! Just one thing; on p307 of the '06 owner's manual:

"Only use engine oil approved by DaimlerChrysler Corporation if following the ASSYST system guidelines."

Doesn't say anything there about only MB spec 229.5 oil. And, on pp298-9 of this same document are oils listed meeting MB specs 228.3, 228.5, 229.3, & 229.5. All approved. So, according to this document, even the dino oil Shell Rotella T Multigrade is OK to use with ASSYST.
 

Turtle

Administrator
Staff member
Retired Expediter
talkinghorse43:

Mine is a 2005, so I don't have a copy of the 2006 manual. But I do know that there were essentially no differences of consequence between the 2005 and 2006 models. However, there may very well be a computer programming difference in the 2006 models that let the OQS (Oil Quality Sensor) give more accurate readings to the ASSYST computer when using any and all of the Approved Oils.

There's a Chrysler TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) out there (pertaining to 2005 models, tho) that discusses the ASSYST and the 229.5 oils, and it mentions Rotella as being one of the 228.3 dino oils that yields accurate Oil Quality Sensor readings for use with the ASSYST computer. It's not on the 229.5 list because it's not a 229.5 oil type. For a 2006 model, I'd check with a knowledgeable Sprinter tech somewhere. Actually, I'd talk with 2 or 3, since at least one will be less-than knowledgeable. hehe

Basically, anything on the MB Approved Oils List can be used. With or without the ASSYST, actually. The only difference is how accurate the ASSYST will in conjunction with the Oil Quality Sensor (OQS). Any of the synthetic oils listed under 229.5 will give you accurate readings. In the 2002-2004 models, all of the ones with the ASSYST had the Mobile 1 as the initial fill, and the ones without the ASSYST, some had Rotella T for the initial fill, some had Mobile 1.

Since the OQS was calibrated and designed specifically for the Mobile 1 0W-40, and that's the only oil that is mentioned by name (multiple times) in the Service Manual, that's the one I'm going with. But, certainly, any other oil on the 229.5 list would be likely just as well.

Oils on the Approved List, but not part of the 229.5 or 229.51 MB Sheet can be used with the ASSYST, but other than the Rotella, the readings won't be as accurate. And by not as accurate, that simply means that the ASSYST computer will tell you to change the oil a few hundred miles sooner than it otherwise would. It's not like it's gonna tell you to change the oil at 15,000 miles when it really should have been changed at 11,000 miles. More likely, it will tell you to change it at 10,000 when it could have easily gone 12,000 miles.

The way the OQS works, when it errs, it will err on the side of sooner rather than later. The ASSYST monitors many parameters including driving habits, the frequency of cold starts, fuel quality, ambient temperature, air intake temperature and a plethora of other factors, and it works in conjunction with the OQS which monitors the viscosity, conductivity, contamination (i.e., water or coolant), temperature and electrical parameters of the oil itself.

The big one insofar as dino versus synthetic is the electrical conductivity of the oil, as dino oil will have less conductivity a little sooner than synthetic oil will.

Any approved oil on the list will be fine for the engine itself, but the ASSYST, on advice from the OQS, may tell you to change the oil a little sooner with a non-229.5 synthetic. Rotella T Multigrade 15W-40 being an exception because it has the same electrical conductivity properties as 229.5 oils.

As far as I know at present, Rotella doesn't meet the requirements for 229.51 oils that are required in the 2207 models, as it's still a 228.3 oil. Just wanted to make that clear. :) Don't want anyone with a new 2007 to make a boo boo. Stick to the list. Always stick to the list.

Again, pick one from the list, and stick with it. Forever.


Panthervanman, with yours, not having a Maintenance ASSYST, it's a Moot point. hehe Just use whatever oil that's been in there, and keep on using it, provided it's an oil from the list. If there has been many different kids of oil in there, if it were me, I'd switch to Rotella T and never look back. Even without the ASSYST, you know it will give you ballpark 10,000-15,000 miles between oil changes, as long as you top it off as needed.

Incidentally, I change my oil filter every 7,500 miles like clockwork. Then I add enough oil to top it off. With frequent filter changes and topping off as needed, you can get some really long life out of the oil. Just keep an eye on the Maintenance ASSYST and it will watch the oil for you.

Tests have shown, unambiguously, that most engine wear occurs within the first 3000 miles after an oil change. So the folks who religiously change their oil at 3000 or 5000 miles would be better off taking the car out back and shotting it. Older cars and cars that use single-grade oil, and non-detergent single-grade oil, are about the only ones that need frequent oil changes. (The only other exception is the Saturn S series which requires oil every 3000 miles to keep the timing chain working properly.)

More important than frequent oil changes is frequent filter changes. Much more important. If you notice, the most vocal proponents of frequent oil changes are those who make money from oil changes, and of course, those who have had the 3000 mile myth beaten into their head for decades. New engine designs and synthetic oils mean much longer oil change intervals, but again, you need to keep the oil clean, so frequent filter changes are needed.

In Europe, where obviously the specs on oil are much more strict, to match the engines, between 25,000 and 30,000 kilometers (15,534 and 18,641 miles) is the norm, and the Sprinter is no exception. If you change your oil in the Sprinter, the ASSYST will tell you to change the oil somewhere around the 11,000-12,000 mark, give or take. If you change the oil filter at about 7,500 miles (12,000 kilometers is what is recommended in Europe, which is 7,456 miles) and top it off as needed (half a quart here, a quart there) the ASSYST will likely take you to somewhere in the 18,000 mile range.

The trick is to stop thinking American, and start thinking European. The German versions of the Sprinter Owner's Manual and the Technical Service Manual both recommend the procedures outlined in the above paragraph. One can only speculate as to why MB recommends 10,000 oil changes for identical vehicles in the North American market. I'm guessing the Dodge Service Departments had something to do with it. I know the Freightliner dealers openly questioned the frequent oil change practice, and most Mercedes dealers here in North America recommend filter changes between longer oil changes (depending on the car).

Just make sure you top it off as needed. If it's half a quart low, don't wait until it's a full quart low before adding the oil. It's important. The longer you wait, you have less oil trying to do more work, and it breaks down faster. The additives wear out and the conductivity weakens quicker. The added few ounces to top it off make all the difference in the world. Just make sure you don't over fill it, cause that's way worse than waiting a little too long to top off.

In any case, whatever you do, don't forget to change the fuel filter often, even if at the recently revised MB-recommended 10,000 mark. I have found that, for the most part, I can get by with changing the fuel filter at the same time I change the oil. Every now and then you'll get a bad tank of fuel from someplace. When that happens you'll know it, and when it does, make a point to have the fuel filter changed as soon as practical. Even if the van smooths out with the next fill up, go ahead and change the filter soon.
 
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