Just bought a 2002 Hino SG
- Thread starter Hino3325
- Start date
Murraycroexp
Veteran Expediter
Wouldn't that have been a good question BEFORE your purchase?
My purchase on this truck was upon word of mouth and from other owners who had similar but there trucks didnt have a 9speed in it, they all had strait 6 or auto, also I couldn't pass up on a good deal
I test drove it and it took me a little bit to get used to a 9speed but now I can shift it no problem. So my question should of been what are common problems with this thing.
Murraycroexp
Veteran Expediter
I didn't mean to come off like an a-hole. But I'm an a-hole. Definitely NOT one of those holier-than-thou a-holes. But just a regular, run of the mill a-hole.
I don't have any experience with Hinos.
Best wishes with the Hino. A little part of me is jealous.
And yes, welcome to EO!!
I don't have any experience with Hinos.
Best wishes with the Hino. A little part of me is jealous.
And yes, welcome to EO!!
I'm gonna be hauling general freight for a local company with average weight around 12grand and maybe since it's geared for highway I'm hoping to do a few short hauls.
With transmission it looks to be stock from inside the cab I'm gonna go to the local dealer and find out because none of the other owners heard of these having a 9speed.
With transmission it looks to be stock from inside the cab I'm gonna go to the local dealer and find out because none of the other owners heard of these having a 9speed.
Murraycroexp
Veteran Expediter
Maybe it's this Ranger Pro tranny.
Part Description Hino FL FL1J FL8J 2427 Ranger Pro 12
http://www.nationaltruckspares.com....2427-Ranger-Pro-12-Transmissions-.aspx?id=182
Part Description Hino FL FL1J FL8J 2427 Ranger Pro 12
http://www.nationaltruckspares.com....2427-Ranger-Pro-12-Transmissions-.aspx?id=182
zorry
Veteran Expediter
I hauled many Hinos when they were assembled in Ca. I never remember ever seeing a nine-speed. Of course, when you're putting trucks on and off your trailer every day they all start to look the same. We'd look for damage,missing parts, and vin numbers.
Be sure to read I Work On Hino Trucks. It's mostly comments of a very up to speed Hino Tech that calls himself Greasy Tee Shirt.
He'll answer any of your questions.
Be sure to read I Work On Hino Trucks. It's mostly comments of a very up to speed Hino Tech that calls himself Greasy Tee Shirt.
He'll answer any of your questions.
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Thx I'll read some of his stuff first
Shoot, I don't think I've seen one with a 9 speed, either.
Those old Hinos are tough as nails, but there are several things that you'll want to check, and there are other things that are downright quirky.
The brakes, for example. Depending on the setup, they may need to be adjusted manually. Not only that, each individual shoe has to be adjusted manually, front and rear. This task sucks. Badly. Then again, once you get them adjusted, you don't have to do it again for a few months (depends on mileage). This isn't something you can do in your driveway unless you have a huge jack and big jackstands; the wheels have to be off of the ground.
There's a bunch of banjo bolts in the fuel system. If you run into a low power situation, or it won't start at all, take the banjo bolts off of the fuel filter housings and check them for debris. Stuff often gets trapped in them and completely clogs them up.
These suffer from some rust issues. There's quite a few steel lines running all around, and they will rust completely through. Identify and replace the worst ones before they fail.
Take the time to verify that all of the dash warning lights and alarms work. A customer burnt up his engine because the gauges didn't work and the low coolant alarm was disconnected. A simple broken thermostat ended up costing somewhere around 15k because he didn't know the engine was overheating.
We have several customers running these old trucks, and they run them hard. 5, 6, 700,000 miles and counting.
Those old Hinos are tough as nails, but there are several things that you'll want to check, and there are other things that are downright quirky.
The brakes, for example. Depending on the setup, they may need to be adjusted manually. Not only that, each individual shoe has to be adjusted manually, front and rear. This task sucks. Badly. Then again, once you get them adjusted, you don't have to do it again for a few months (depends on mileage). This isn't something you can do in your driveway unless you have a huge jack and big jackstands; the wheels have to be off of the ground.
There's a bunch of banjo bolts in the fuel system. If you run into a low power situation, or it won't start at all, take the banjo bolts off of the fuel filter housings and check them for debris. Stuff often gets trapped in them and completely clogs them up.
These suffer from some rust issues. There's quite a few steel lines running all around, and they will rust completely through. Identify and replace the worst ones before they fail.
Take the time to verify that all of the dash warning lights and alarms work. A customer burnt up his engine because the gauges didn't work and the low coolant alarm was disconnected. A simple broken thermostat ended up costing somewhere around 15k because he didn't know the engine was overheating.
We have several customers running these old trucks, and they run them hard. 5, 6, 700,000 miles and counting.
I am SO tempted, SO tempted!
Murraycroexp
Veteran Expediter
Resist. Resist. Resist.
Thx for some of the tips. I'm gonna make my way in a few days to the dealership and get my answer on the transmission if it's been swapped or stock.
I just found out today that the exhaust brake switch and indicator work but the exhaust brake itself doesn't. I checked the air actuator and that seems to be doing its job but maybe the flapper inside the exhaust brake doesn't work. Have u dealt with this before?
The exhaust-mounted valve moves, but the exhaust brake doesn't work? I suppose it could be broken inside, or missing. Sometimes the diaphragms in the actuators fail. If there's an exhaust leak between the brake and the engine, it won't do much except make noise.
One word of caution: almost every part on these old Hinos are really, really expensive. I mean, they run forever, but don't break ANYTHING when you're wrenching on it. Use PB Blaster and patience. No one has anything in stock. You can get just about everything , but you may have to wait a couple weeks.
The actuator is working its the valve inside the exhaust brake that I believe is not moving. I sprayed some wd on the exhaust nuts I'm gonna attempt to take it apart tomorrow.
Roger that. Some other things of note: There are hardly any sensors on the engine, save the coolant temp sensor. There are up to three coolant temp sensors, one for glow plugs/cold start, one for gauge, one for ecu. Get a book, it explains this stuff fairly well.
The injection pump is generally reliable, but the prestroke actuator and rack sensor sometimes fail. Sometimes it's just a connection issue. To actually see live data, you'll need to find someone with an old PROLINK and a Hino injection pump cartridge.
If either of those things on the pump fail, the result is a check engine light and reduced power. A few customers refuse to pay to have it fixed, so they've been running around for who knows how long with the light on. The engine doesn't seem to care.