Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.

[greasytshirt]

Dealer wants to replace the tcm on my 2013 Hino 195h. It's 1000 bucks. The red atm light has come on multiple times going into the safety mode. After taking it in several times they have read the codes and not enough voltage.

Ask what codes are being pulled. The codes should be in the Pxxxx or Uxxxx format.

The Aisin TCM is more robust, imo, than Allison TCMs. I doubt it's the TCM (but I'm not there to troubleshoot it either.

The first thing to do is load test the batteries and clean all connections. A crappy battery means low voltage during crank, which can set codes.

If the batteries are OK, I would check the resistance of the TCM's ground path, and voltage to the TCM. If this seems OK, I'd severely test the alternator (engine at higher rpm, carbon pile tester on batteries, maybe a 50 amp load for a minute or two to get it hot). See if voltage drops out after that. I'd also check to see if alternator is leaking A/C voltage. They don't like that.

The engine ECU on the little cabovers sometimes burn up the injector drivers but that's the only fault I know of with those.

Get the diagnostic codes.

Sent from my XT1585 using EO Forums mobile app

 

[graygeoff]

Hello,

I have a 2006 268a. Any chance you know where I could find a harness that I could buy so I don't have to cut the factory stereo harness? Trying to install an aftermarket stereo.

Tried Crutchfield and Metra with no luck.

Thanks!

 

[Tobster317]

I have an 07 338. I couldn't find one. Had to cut it.

 

[greasytshirt]

Hello,

I have a 2006 268a. Any chance you know where I could find a harness that I could buy so I don't have to cut the factory stereo harness? Trying to install an aftermarket stereo.

Tried Crutchfield and Metra with no luck.

Thanks!

I don't think one exists.

This may help.

 

[greasytshirt]

Your local car stereo place would totally love a gravy job like this though, especially if you show up with a six pack.

 

[wanrollc]

Hi,

I have a 2008 Hino and when I drive for about 2 minutes at or around 45mph, my check engine light turns on and the code it gives off is code 0087 (low fuel pressure). I replaced the injectors, pressure sensor, fuel suction sensor, and the EGR valve but I still have the same problem. Is there anything that can be setting off this check engine code other than the fuel pump at this point?

Thanks for your help!

 

[Maxx]

Hey Greasy,

I have a 2013 Hino 195 which has a warning light with traingale exclamation mark on. I read the code for it and it shows an active code P2526 False Detection of Vacuum Pressure Sensor. Cold you let me know what the issue could be? Do i need to replace the sensor.

 

[Tobster317]

Thanks to Greasy, 2007 Hino 338 with

 

[greasytshirt]

Hi,

I have a 2008 Hino and when I drive for about 2 minutes at or around 45mph, my check engine light turns on and the code it gives off is code 0087 (low fuel pressure). I replaced the injectors, pressure sensor, fuel suction sensor, and the EGR valve but I still have the same problem. Is there anything that can be setting off this check engine code other than the fuel pump at this point?

Thanks for your help!

Check every fitting in the fuel supply for debris. There's junk clogging a line somewhere. Very very common.

Sent from my XT1585 using EO Forums mobile app

 

[greasytshirt]

Hey Greasy,

I have a 2013 Hino 195 which has a warning light with traingale exclamation mark on. I read the code for it and it shows an active code P2526 False Detection of Vacuum Pressure Sensor. Cold you let me know what the issue could be? Do i need to replace the sensor.

I'm gonna have to look that one up.

Sent from my XT1585 using EO Forums mobile app

 

[greasytshirt]

Hey Greasy,

I have a 2013 Hino 195 which has a warning light with traingale exclamation mark on. I read the code for it and it shows an active code P2526 False Detection of Vacuum Pressure Sensor. Cold you let me know what the issue could be? Do i need to replace the sensor.

It could be like 10 different things. About all you can do is see if the electrical vacuum pump is working (by putting 12v on it).

Sent from my XT1585 using EO Forums mobile app

 

[Michael Shawver]

I hate being a bother and I'm sure there is not much i can do but i am hoping this is worth a shot. We have a 2012 Hino 268 that for the last year maybe longer at this point I forget, that has had a check engine light on. I can grab generic manufacturer specific code P141F and that is it. My boss has asked me to see if there is anyway to fix this with out sending it to our local dealer where our light bar routinely gets stolen, or we pay a ton of money in diag over a 50 dollar part. I do know that the scr def injectors and igniters were all replaced approximately 1.5 years ago on the recall you spoke of a dozen or so pages back. I also know that the the previous drivers were NOTORIOUS for shutting down the truck during regen. I also know this this has been flashed so many times its scary. (the door and b pillar are PAINTED in Hino revision stickers lol. But i digress. The truck will not do a running regen in fact the only way to regen is to do the parked regen and Im not so sure its performing it so much as just resetting the gauge. If i clear the CEL and start it twice the code returns IMMEDIATELY. no driving required. That being said is there any parts you can think of that come to mind that would cause this issue? The unfortunate thing is i work in a predominately gas repair facility and i am the only guy that will put a wrench on the diesels. However i have 0 diag equipment... PLEASE HELP ME lol.

 

[Don_vincentio]

Not sure if this is normal and I'm just imagining it not being normal, but when shifting to drive it's a smith shift barely feel the trams engaging, but when shifting into reverse it's a harder shift and you can feel it engaging and the shift, let me know if you believe this is normal, or if there's something major/minor going on there.

2011 Hino 258 195,xxx miles

 

[greasytshirt]

I hate being a bother and I'm sure there is not much i can do but i am hoping this is worth a shot. We have a 2012 Hino 268 that for the last year maybe longer at this point I forget, that has had a check engine light on. I can grab generic manufacturer specific code P141F and that is it. My boss has asked me to see if there is anyway to fix this with out sending it to our local dealer where our light bar routinely gets stolen, or we pay a ton of money in diag over a 50 dollar part. I do know that the scr def injectors and igniters were all replaced approximately 1.5 years ago on the recall you spoke of a dozen or so pages back. I also know that the the previous drivers were NOTORIOUS for shutting down the truck during regen. I also know this this has been flashed so many times its scary. (the door and b pillar are PAINTED in Hino revision stickers lol. But i digress. The truck will not do a running regen in fact the only way to regen is to do the parked regen and Im not so sure its performing it so much as just resetting the gauge. If i clear the CEL and start it twice the code returns IMMEDIATELY. no driving required. That being said is there any parts you can think of that come to mind that would cause this issue? The unfortunate thing is i work in a predominately gas repair facility and i am the only guy that will put a wrench on the diesels. However i have 0 diag equipment... PLEASE HELP ME lol.

You aren't resetting the code. There's an active fault in the burner. Most diagnostic equipment will not connect to it. You need an actual diagnosis by someone who knows what they're doing. If you can tow it about 250 miles south I can fix it.

By running it for a year with active faults, this will be expensive.

Gone are the days of ignoring check engine lights and other faults. All manufacturers are suffering from the complexity and sensitivity of aftertreatment, and all trucks, regardless of make, will punish those that aren't right on top of maintenance and repair.

Hino does in fact try very hard to get it right. All those stickers are a testament to a very intense effort to get the system to be more reliable. It's ten times better than when the first of the burner trucks hit the market.

Sent from my XT1585 using EO Forums mobile app

 

[greasytshirt]

Not sure if this is normal and I'm just imagining it not being normal, but when shifting to drive it's a smith shift barely feel the trams engaging, but when shifting into reverse it's a harder shift and you can feel it engaging and the shift, let me know if you believe this is normal, or if there's something major/minor going on there.

2011 Hino 258 195,xxx miles

If you were to shift from drive to reverse, is the clunk more, less, or the same as when you shift from neutral to reverse?

Traditionally, clunking like this is attributed to driveshaft wind-up. Things that make it worse include worn out u-joints or hanger bearings, broken motor mounts, or idle speed that is too high. The last is probably not the issue. Well, it can't really be addressed since idle is computer controlled.

Sent from my XT1585 using EO Forums mobile app

 

[ducty]

I'd start by locating the fuel pump relay and testing it. Maybe I'd put 12v into the wire going to the pump to see if it turns on, or to see if there's a break in the wiring or something.

Then again, you've got more to check. I'd want to see if the ignition system worked when cranking it over. If it had no fuel pressure and no spark, I bet it lost crank or cam position signal.

I think I found the trouble - had a no start about 2 weeks ago. Tried to start it about 5 times and no firing at all. Swapped the fuel pump relay with the rear dome relay next to it and it started immediately. Has started every time since, even this morning at 0 degrees. We will see what happens tomorrow morning at -15 when I'm 50 miles from home.

 

[Hino123]

Hey Greasy,

I have a 2013 Hino 195 which has a warning light with traingale exclamation mark on. I read the code for it and it shows an active code P2526 False Detection of Vacuum Pressure Sensor. Cold you let me know what the issue could be? Do i need to replace the sensor.

Jasp I had a truck come into my shop with the same issue (P2526,VCS Yellow triangle illuminiated 2017 195) I after some diagnostics found the Electronic Vacuum Pump was inop. I was able to command the pump on and load tested the circuit with a headlamp with the DX2 software. I assume you dont have access to the DX2 software but you could do some cowboy troubleshooting. Essentially this code is related to a loss of vacuum, does your exhaust brake work? Do you have voltage on both legs of fuse E-VCM 30a, Do you have a relay installed in the Vacuum pump relay cavity?Do you have a sister truck you could swap pumps on? This vacuum pump is $2200 warranty cost. I have attached the technical description of the code and attached it below.

(Technical description • – • The vehicle control ECU has detected the abnormality in pressure signal from the vacuum sensor. 2. DTC set condition (1) DTC detection condition • Starter key: ON (2) Judgement criteria Any of the following is detected: • When the electric vacuum pump operation signal is ON and the exhaust brake is not working, the vacuum tank pressure remains unchanged for 10 seconds. • When the electric vacuum pump operation signal is OFF and the exhaust brake is working, the vacuum tank pressure remains unchanged for 10 seconds. • When the electric vacuum pump operation signal is ON and the exhaust brake is working, the vacuum tank pressure remains above the pump operation stop level for 180 seconds)

 

[Shawhawk]

Hello,

Need your help, for some reason my truck wont start, when i try to turn it on the transmission light came on. I turn the key off and try to start it again but it wont start. I had a mechanic chevked it and they said the battery is dead, so they replace it and it still wont start, he went under rhe truck and check the starter and its fine he managed to start it but the alarm wont go off. So tried to take it to the shop but gear wont come on, he did the diagnostic to see whats going on and he saw the gear is on Drive mode. Now my question is how do i put it back to neutral even though its still in Neutral? Is there a manual overide to do?

I have a 2011 Hino 338 automatic with a Eaton Transmission

 

[greasytshirt]

Hello,

Need your help, for some reason my truck wont start, when i try to turn it on the transmission light came on. I turn the key off and try to start it again but it wont start. I had a mechanic chevked it and they said the battery is dead, so they replace it and it still wont start, he went under rhe truck and check the starter and its fine he managed to start it but the alarm wont go off. So tried to take it to the shop but gear wont come on, he did the diagnostic to see whats going on and he saw the gear is on Drive mode. Now my question is how do i put it back to neutral even though its still in Neutral? Is there a manual overide to do?

I have a 2011 Hino 338 automatic with a Eaton Transmission

I've worked on Hinos for close to five years, and I've never seen one with this transmission (I know they were an available option).

It's gonna take a bit of time to research this problem.

Sent from my XT1585 using EO Forums mobile app

 

[Hino123]

Hello,

Need your help, for some reason my truck wont start, when i try to turn it on the transmission light came on. I turn the key off and try to start it again but it wont start. I had a mechanic chevked it and they said the battery is dead, so they replace it and it still wont start, he went under rhe truck and check the starter and its fine he managed to start it but the alarm wont go off. So tried to take it to the shop but gear wont come on, he did the diagnostic to see whats going on and he saw the gear is on Drive mode. Now my question is how do i put it back to neutral even though its still in Neutral? Is there a manual overide to do?

I have a 2011 Hino 338 automatic with a Eaton Transmission

I had a similar issue as the one you mentioned. I eventually found a broken pin in the shift rail on the X-Y shifter. Now I doubt that's your issue but here's what I would suggest. Your going to have to have someone connect to the Transmission Control Module (TCM) using Eaton Service ranger software. Have them check for available TCM updates, and pull the fault codes from the TCM. That transmission is automated, and they have quite a few issues with the X-Y shifter. There is a calibration process that can be performed with the Eaton software that runs the transmission through the gears, and calibrates the position of the shifter. If the engine thinks the transmission is not in Neutral it wont start. This sounds like what is going on with your unit. Double check ALL! your fuses, make sure you have good voltage/ground at the TCM and make sure all connectors are tight on the top and side of transmission. Other than that Id say you're going to have to take this one in for service.