Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.

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greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
No it doesnt crank up, i dont think its the battery since it always happens after i gassed up and usually drive for over an hour before i gas up. Is it possible that i turn the key to fast since hino trucks needs a few seconds to start up?
How long does it take it to start if you crank the engine, idk, 10 seconds straight?
 

ud2600bbs

Seasoned Expediter
Owner/Operator
Well after fighting with coolant overflow problem i finally stopped the problem i look at the radiator cap and saw the pressure rating was 0.5bar wich is oem spec since i had bought a new oem cap So i bought a 0.9 bar rad cap to test and that has solved my problem
Also did the oil assy separator mod from the hino 2011+ Now after i cleaned the intake manifold and intercooler and dpf also new egr cooler and new radiator the truck runs great i can feel the difference in power
 

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Stari206

New Recruit
Owner/Operator
@greasyshirt

Got a weird question about my 07' Hino(293K) and it has to do with the coolant gauge that went haywire randomly it happened a year ago and happened today again.

A year ago when this coolant issue happened I was able to resolve it by taking the radiator and coolant caps off and turning the engine on and let it work for a couple of minutes and that fixed it and didn't have that issue until today. My "theory" at that time was that there was some air in radiator and it was causing some counter-pressure. Today when it happened again, I checked all the fluids and they were all good I had a bit extra coolant fluid that I brought back down to ideal levels. I then took the caps off just like the first time and it seemed to work, but not to the same effect, because now the red gauge light turns on along with the sound warning and lasts a couple of second and then turns off then after another couple of miles happened it again a few more times each time a greater distance then the last.

The engine temperature is good and constant it doesn't rise or fall. I am just lost at what the issue could be, if you have any info that you could share I would appreciate it very much.
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
@greasyshirt

Got a weird question about my 07' Hino(293K) and it has to do with the coolant gauge that went haywire randomly it happened a year ago and happened today again.

A year ago when this coolant issue happened I was able to resolve it by taking the radiator and coolant caps off and turning the engine on and let it work for a couple of minutes and that fixed it and didn't have that issue until today. My "theory" at that time was that there was some air in radiator and it was causing some counter-pressure. Today when it happened again, I checked all the fluids and they were all good I had a bit extra coolant fluid that I brought back down to ideal levels. I then took the caps off just like the first time and it seemed to work, but not to the same effect, because now the red gauge light turns on along with the sound warning and lasts a couple of second and then turns off then after another couple of miles happened it again a few more times each time a greater distance then the last.

The engine temperature is good and constant it doesn't rise or fall. I am just lost at what the issue could be, if you have any info that you could share I would appreciate it very much.

When pockets of gas enter the cooling system, it can distrupt coolant flow. Having the low coolant level come on, with no external leaks, kind of makes me think this is happening.

Let's not jump straight to headgasket failure just yet.

First, pressure test the cooling system, preferably when dead cold. The hose connections tend to leak when it's cool, and ambient temps have dropped. Common to find leaks on the two radiator hoses where they attach to the engine.

Look under the turbo, at the oil cooler. This is another common coolant leak point.

Look (it's nearly impossible to see, but try) at the water pump weep hole. It's behind the pully. A mirror inspection tool and a good flashlight can help you see back here. If there is any evidence AT ALL of the water pump leaking, replace it. It's possible for a failing water pump to pull ambient air past the carbon seal and push it into the cooling system. Seen it several times.

The EGR coolers, in my experience, rarely leak. Pressure testing these is a pain in the ass, so let's skip this.

Occasionally a truck comes in with a complaint that it won't pull coolant from the overflow tank. Make sure the hose hasn't fallen off of the overflow tank cap. Also make sure that the lines haven't been reversed.

If none of this stuff helps, have a combustion gas test performed on the cooling system. If it fails, it's probably a head gasket. Replace all the cups at the same time.

If there are bubbles in the cooling system while doing the combustion gas test BUT it doesn't fail the test, I'd suspect water pump.
 

Stari206

New Recruit
Owner/Operator
When pockets of gas enter the cooling system, it can distrupt coolant flow. Having the low coolant level come on, with no external leaks, kind of makes me think this is happening.

Let's not jump straight to headgasket failure just yet.

First, pressure test the cooling system, preferably when dead cold. The hose connections tend to leak when it's cool, and ambient temps have dropped. Common to find leaks on the two radiator hoses where they attach to the engine.

Look under the turbo, at the oil cooler. This is another common coolant leak point.

Look (it's nearly impossible to see, but try) at the water pump weep hole. It's behind the pully. A mirror inspection tool and a good flashlight can help you see back here. If there is any evidence AT ALL of the water pump leaking, replace it. It's possible for a failing water pump to pull ambient air past the carbon seal and push it into the cooling system. Seen it several times.

The EGR coolers, in my experience, rarely leak. Pressure testing these is a pain in the ass, so let's skip this.

Occasionally a truck comes in with a complaint that it won't pull coolant from the overflow tank. Make sure the hose hasn't fallen off of the overflow tank cap. Also make sure that the lines haven't been reversed.

If none of this stuff helps, have a combustion gas test performed on the cooling system. If it fails, it's probably a head gasket. Replace all the cups at the same time.

If there are bubbles in the cooling system while doing the combustion gas test BUT it doesn't fail the test, I'd suspect water pump.

Since I wrote the question everything has gone back to normal. I actually believe it had something to do with the weight of the load I was hauling, which was over 9,000lbs. I rarely ever haul such heavy loads, but on this occasion the load weight and the hilly roads I took might have take its tool on the engine/cooling system.

Also I doubt it has anything to do with the head gasket as it would by now deteriorated significantly, because I have been driving the truck on a regular basis since it first happened and have done all the regular services, with out any problems poping up.

I will do the combustion gas test as soon as I am back home, just to make sure, but thanks a lot of the info.
 
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ryanpoore

New Recruit
Owner/Operator
Hey greasytshirt, was wondering if you could help me out with something.

I'll be buying my first class 6 truck this month, and I'm stuck between hino, ford, and freightliner. The ford is the cheapest initial option, and the hino is the most expensive initial option. We will do around 20k miles per year carrying 18-23k of weight.

My biggest concern with hino is the downtime and expenses when the truck breaks down, as we have a very custom truck bed that a rental couldn't suffice. If it breaks down, it would need to be back asap. However, I'm told being located in southern california, there are plenty of hino parts available.

The F650 is appealing because of the initial lower price, but reliability is a question.

Freightliner... no real reason other than I see tons of them driving around.



Any insight you could give would be immensely helpful. Were a pretty small business and can't afford to mess up this first truck purchase. If you were buying a 2016 medium duty, what would you go with?


Thanks! :)
 

Tobster317

Expert Expediter
Owner/Operator
The hardest thing about the Hino is getting some one that knows what they are doing. Possibly just a Hino dealer that only works on them. The ford and the freightliner anyone can basically work on those. I travel 400 miles out of my way to get serviced at a Hino only place.
 

coalminer

Veteran Expediter
Retired Expediter
I ended up ordering that aftermarket AC condenser, it was $125 on ebay, and if it wasn't made by the same company that made the OEM, they copied it pretty well.

After evacuating the air and charging the system, was having issues in that it didn't seem like it would take enough Freon, and was not getting very cool. After thinking about it, ended up putting a fan in front of the condenser and wow did that do the trick, was able to get it charged and it was cooling really well. Wish there was enough space to put a small electric fan in front.

Im starting to think that its time to replace the fan clutch, I do hear it kick in when I climb hills, but at low rpm it does not seem like its moving much air.
 

Eric Porter

Active Expediter
I have an 07 185 with auto trans. engine has acceleration in Park or Neutral, but not in gear. Has code for Shift position Sensor. Is that located up top on the shifter or down below on the trans? It is Aisin. I could not go to System Fix, it gave me an error.

Thank you.
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
I have an 07 185 with auto trans. engine has acceleration in Park or Neutral, but not in gear. Has code for Shift position Sensor. Is that located up top on the shifter or down below on the trans? It is Aisin. I could not go to System Fix, it gave me an error.

Thank you.
It is on the side of the transmission, where the shift selector rod goes through. They tend to get stuck, you may break it on the way off.
 
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greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Hey greasytshirt, was wondering if you could help me out with something.

I'll be buying my first class 6 truck this month, and I'm stuck between hino, ford, and freightliner. The ford is the cheapest initial option, and the hino is the most expensive initial option. We will do around 20k miles per year carrying 18-23k of weight.

My biggest concern with hino is the downtime and expenses when the truck breaks down, as we have a very custom truck bed that a rental couldn't suffice. If it breaks down, it would need to be back asap. However, I'm told being located in southern california, there are plenty of hino parts available.

The F650 is appealing because of the initial lower price, but reliability is a question.

Freightliner... no real reason other than I see tons of them driving around.



Any insight you could give would be immensely helpful. Were a pretty small business and can't afford to mess up this first truck purchase. If you were buying a 2016 medium duty, what would you go with?


Thanks! :)
Which engines are you looking at for the Ford and the Freightliner?

The 2016 Hino does not have the troublesome burner system that the 11-14 trucks had. Regen issues are much, much less frequent. The Hino computers will still require special software to connect to them, so only equipped shops can do actual diagnosis (Allison and Wabco aside, these can be read with much simpler devices). When there is a problem, it's usually pretty straightforward to sort out (unlike the burner trucks, IMO).

The Hino is not a bad choice, but you should get to know your local dealers to see if they can support you well.
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
I ended up ordering that aftermarket AC condenser, it was $125 on ebay, and if it wasn't made by the same company that made the OEM, they copied it pretty well.

After evacuating the air and charging the system, was having issues in that it didn't seem like it would take enough Freon, and was not getting very cool. After thinking about it, ended up putting a fan in front of the condenser and wow did that do the trick, was able to get it charged and it was cooling really well. Wish there was enough space to put a small electric fan in front.

Im starting to think that its time to replace the fan clutch, I do hear it kick in when I climb hills, but at low rpm it does not seem like its moving much air.


Did you happen to inspect the radiator fins for debris? The passages through the fins are pretty tight and a ton of debris collects in them, and it can be hard to see it.
 

suddy

Rookie Expediter
We have a 2008 Hino with the Allison transmission....the transmission light has came on a few times....fluid level is good and clean....turn on the truck and start it back up and the light is gone and the truck runs fine.... any possible causes??
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
We have a 2008 Hino with the Allison transmission....the transmission light has came on a few times....fluid level is good and clean....turn on the truck and start it back up and the light is gone and the truck runs fine.... any possible causes??
It could be a number of things. First you need to get the codes out of the Allison TCM. This is done at the 9-pin connector, and theoretically a simple HD code reader can do it.

Common issues with the Allison transmissions include the range position switch, the internal wiring harness, and bits of normal wear metal paste getting into the internal mode switch and causing short circuits (causing the tcm to think it's not in the gear commanded).
 

suddy

Rookie Expediter
Greasy, thanks for the info. I do have a Snap-on scan tool (solus ultra). I can communicate with the ecm and engine, but cannot get an stored codes or transmission information. Do I just need to get an update for light/heavy duty trucks?? Again, greatly appreciate all your help
 

suddy

Rookie Expediter
Suddy, does it only happen when it's raining or the ground is wet??

Tobster, thanks for the question.....it has been cooler here in the mornings with more moisture in the air/dew. The light does not come on every day. It has been like 4 times in the last 2.5 weeks. It always happens early in the morning/trip. Our driver pulls over, turns off the truck and restarts it. Then it is fine the rest of the day or two.
 
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