Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.
- Thread starter greasytshirt
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- 2016 hino
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Excellent. Honestly, I doubt you'll notice much difference in the way it runs after having the codes entered, but I'd have it done anyway. Did you keep the sheets with the cal codes? Did you label them #1-#6?
Yes I did, figured that was the easiest way.
Good. Otherwise the valve cover has to come off.
rhitrucking
Active Expediter
My 2008 Hino 338 has recently had the check engine light come on twice for code P0087, fuel/rail pressure to low. My rail pressure is about 26,500-27,000 psi at 65mph and at idle its about 8000-9000psi. Are these normal figures and What normally triggers the p0087 code?
Those pressures are normal. At sustained full power it can drop dramatically if there is a restriction in the fuel supply. First replace the fuel filter and clean up the housing or sediment cap. Then pull all of the inlet fittings completely out of the fuel filter housing and look for debris. If none there, there may be debris in the tank. Not uncommon to find the 90 degree elbow in the top of the tank packed full of crud.
After that, if you are absolutely sure there isn't a restriction, replace the scv.
Ok next problem.... The brake light and beeper are coming on intermittently, and when I hit the brake pedal with the engine off, the back up motor is not coming on. Tomorrow going to see if there is power getting to the motor and the relay, anything else you can think of right off the top of your head?
The brake lights do work and the cruise disengages when I tap the pedal so the switch seems good. Also the warning light sometimes flickers, the beeper does not go off until the light is at full brightness, when it's dim the beeper is not on.
That beeper is going to drive me nuts.....
The brake lights do work and the cruise disengages when I tap the pedal so the switch seems good. Also the warning light sometimes flickers, the beeper does not go off until the light is at full brightness, when it's dim the beeper is not on.
That beeper is going to drive me nuts.....
Usually it's the big relay on the side of the master cylinder frying. Sometimes its the motor. There is a big fuse in the external box powering the motor.
Yep it's the motor, with the ignition on but the engine off, it was getting power but not running, I tapped on the end with a hammer and it started running again.
Does not look that difficult to replace only 2 bolts. Hope it's not that expensive....
http://www.bosch-mobility-solutions...4/HydroMax_Hydraulic_Brake_Booster_Manual.pdf
Did some searching and found this pdf, wanted to add this to the thread so if anyone else had issues with their hydraulic brake booster system, it might help.
Did some searching and found this pdf, wanted to add this to the thread so if anyone else had issues with their hydraulic brake booster system, it might help.
It may be rebuildable. Sounds like bad or sticking brushes.
Greasyshirt,
I asked a couple questions a while back about my hino 338 with 440k and got great feedback from you. "Thank you!"
My issue I'm having now is when stopped at a light with a small load (2,000lbs) or full load (17,000lbs) once I let go of the break and press the gas the truck just idles up 500-1000 tons and the truck will barely budge. Sometimes if you release the pedal and push again it will go, but at a super slow rate of rpm increase.
Today I was close to max GVWR and on a major highway in traffic and the truck wouldn't go up the tiniest of a hill.
I know this truck is close to beading a transmission... and I will throw another $5k at it if I knew that this would fix the problem.
At the dealer they have talked about some adjustment or replacing this part (possibly the pedal sensor?) which I've had them do both and still no fix to the problem.
Any thoughts on this?
Thanks again for your passion to all out Hino problems!!!
I asked a couple questions a while back about my hino 338 with 440k and got great feedback from you. "Thank you!"
My issue I'm having now is when stopped at a light with a small load (2,000lbs) or full load (17,000lbs) once I let go of the break and press the gas the truck just idles up 500-1000 tons and the truck will barely budge. Sometimes if you release the pedal and push again it will go, but at a super slow rate of rpm increase.
Today I was close to max GVWR and on a major highway in traffic and the truck wouldn't go up the tiniest of a hill.
I know this truck is close to beading a transmission... and I will throw another $5k at it if I knew that this would fix the problem.
At the dealer they have talked about some adjustment or replacing this part (possibly the pedal sensor?) which I've had them do both and still no fix to the problem.
Any thoughts on this?
Thanks again for your passion to all out Hino problems!!!
Ah yes, this problem. There are two things that can cause this. One is the brake pedal switch. It's often out of adjustment. Unscrew it a quarter turn until it pops out, then push it in until the plunger is fully depressed, plus another click or two.
If this does not fix it, there's a switch on the service brake relay valve that fails. There are two switches on the service brake relay valve. To figure out which one it is, unplug one and try to drive. Then put a jumper wire in place and try to drive. Do this to both switches. You'll be able to isolate which one does it. They are more easily identified by the colors of the plastic it's made of, in case your dealer can't tell which is which (it's a pain in the ass).
What's the typical price of these switches on the service break relay?
Hell if I know. $50?
Ha, okay.
I was just hoping they weren't like $800 each. M
Thanks again!
I was just hoping they weren't like $800 each. M
Thanks again!
Don_vincentio
Seasoned Expediter
How long does it take to do a Rocker gasket? I've got oil leaking from the right side of the engine above the exhaust manifold
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Greasy....shirt
I replaced all three sensors on the service brake replay and the brake pedal switch is working fine. When the engine is off you can hear the brake pedal sensor clicking some type of solenoid as if it's functioning fine.
Unfortunately this problem continues. If I let off the gas pedal and repress,(sometimes) it will clear itself out but the truck still struggles to get rpm and get moving.
Anything else that you can think of?
I replaced all three sensors on the service brake replay and the brake pedal switch is working fine. When the engine is off you can hear the brake pedal sensor clicking some type of solenoid as if it's functioning fine.
Unfortunately this problem continues. If I let off the gas pedal and repress,(sometimes) it will clear itself out but the truck still struggles to get rpm and get moving.
Anything else that you can think of?
You have to remove the camshaft, so this is gonna take a while.
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