Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.

[Liftngo]

Hi again. Thanks for your help so far.
I have a problem now with rear inside tyres scalloping. Hino fd 500 2013 model NOT AIRBAG SUSPENSION.
I replaced 4 tyres put the front tyres to rear. So 2 new tyres on from and 2 on rear.
After a country trip of 3 300 klm I notices the old front tyres now on rear also scalloping.
Called local truck aligner and he said could be rear different camber is out. But wants $400 for a report.
Hino dealer here says never had this problem before but get report and see what it says. Truck is under warranty still.
Any ideas?
Thanks

 

[greasytshirt]

Hi again. Thanks for your help so far.
I have a problem now with rear inside tyres scalloping. Hino fd 500 2013 model NOT AIRBAG SUSPENSION.
I replaced 4 tyres put the front tyres to rear. So 2 new tyres on from and 2 on rear.
After a country trip of 3 300 klm I notices the old front tyres now on rear also scalloping.
Called local truck aligner and he said could be rear different camber is out. But wants $400 for a report.
Hino dealer here says never had this problem before but get report and see what it says. Truck is under warranty still.
Any ideas?
Thanks

Other than underinflation, I have no idea. I Googled "rear duals scalloping" and found this article.

What's Killing Your Tires? - Article - TruckingInfo.com

 

[Liftngo]

Thanks. That's what hino also suggested. However the bridgestone store I go to double checked them. 100 psi.
Guess I'm going to have to pay the money and get the report!

 

[greasytshirt]

Our body guy is working on a hood from a 2006 268. As many of you know, all of the 6 cylinder trucks from 2005-2010 are prone to ridiculous cracks where the hood hinge attaches. I'm going to take pics of the process used to fix these cracks. This is something the average joe can do over a weekend. It can be done in a day, but the fiberglass resin needs to be fully cured before the hood is reinstalled.

One person can get the hood off (although a helping hand is nice). All you need is an engine hoist, like one from Harbor Freight. Open the hood, tie rope to each top corner, attach engine hoist, disconnect top cables and hinge pins, and lift the whole thing off. Lay it upside down on some cardboard and you're ready to go.

It's also helpful if you have a die grinder, since the cracks need to be cut open and a "V" opened down their length. A right angle die grinder with Roloc sanding disks would work well to rough up the entire surrounding area (important). And an air compressor, of course. You could always use the truck's air tank, if equipped.

 

[HugoC1]

Hi I'm new to this,but I recently bought a 2005 268 automatic Hino.Everything works well the only thing is that I can't get it over 56mph at 1800rpm what could be the problem?please help

 

[greasytshirt]

Hi I'm new to this,but I recently bought a 2005 268 automatic Hino.Everything works well the only thing is that I can't get it over 56mph at 1800rpm what could be the problem?please help

Check engine light on?
Any other warning lights on?
How does it run otherwise?
Is there a large cloud of black smoke following you around, or any other weird symptoms?

How long after you bought it did these symptoms develop? Was it a slow progression, or did it just stop working right all of a sudden?

Fuel filter changed recently? Last oil change? Last valve adjustment? Does it have any service history?

Fuel quality? They will run on gasoline, at least for a while. Happens more often than anyone wants to admit.

 

[HugoC1]

No check engine light only abs.no smoke or anything.It drives perfect it just doesn't get passed 56mph at 1800rpm.I floor the gas pedal all the way down and it just max out at 56mph.I bought it 3 months ago as soon as I bought it I change all the fluids and fuel filter.I was probably thinking it has a governor that stop it from getting passed 56.I wanted to ask you if u ever encounter a problem like this before?

 

[greasytshirt]

No check engine light only abs.no smoke or anything.It drives perfect it just doesn't get passed 56mph at 1800rpm.I floor the gas pedal all the way down and it just max out at 56mph.I bought it 3 months ago as soon as I bought it I change all the fluids and fuel filter.I was probably thinking it has a governor that stop it from getting passed 56.I wanted to ask you if u ever encounter a problem like this before?

You have to fix the ABS immediately. Without it, the torque converter unlocks. Allison does this to increase fluid flow to the cooler, but the cooler isn't big enough to handle the heat load of an unlocked converter, so the transmission overheats anyway.

You can access the ABS and transmission data through the 9-pin connector.

Juice brakes? The Meritor rotors tend to rust up pretty bad, sometimes eating away most of the tone ring. Loose wheel bearings also force the sensors out.

The first step is to push all of the sensors all the way in. If they move in just a bit, that's good. If one has been pushed out around 1/4" or so, that wheel end needs some attention. Look at tone ring condition, metal/rust stuck to sensor tip, wheel bearing endplay, sensor damage.

Air brake trucks will need the rear wheel sets removed to get to the sensors. Up front it's easy.

On some of these older trucks, the sensors get seized so tightly they cannot be removed without destroying them. If you can get yours out, pull the little cage out too, clean everything, then grease up the cage and the circumference of the sensor before shoving it back in.


Take care of the ABS first.

Edit: There's also a button marked ABS near the 9-pin connector. This will give you 2 digit flash code through the ABS light. I have no idea what the flash codes are, because I never do it this way. A fella named coalminer on here knows what they are.

Lockup on the torque converter will help your max speed, too. Granted, depending on the rear gear ratio, you might find yourself somewhat limited in top speed anyway. There are a wide variety of gears available, but you might have a gear set inappropriate for what you're doing.

 

[coalminer]

If you scroll back a few pages I posted a pdf for the abs system it will show you how to perform the self diagnostic, will tell you which wheel sensor is the issue.

 

[HugoC1]

Thanks a lot for your help.I will check that out immediately.

 

[Liftngo]

So the wheel issue gets deeper.
Apparently here in Australia the dealer sends fhe front axle, does wheel alignment and heel to toe adjustment to set up for australian roads.
Unfortunately seems my truck never had this done pre delivery!
Now the battle is on as to who pays. I'm with my local dealer who didn't sell the truck new and want $520 to do it. Have contacted the selling dealer and see if they will reimburse

 

[Liftngo]

Sorry should say bends the front axle

 

[greasytshirt]

So the wheel issue gets deeper.
Apparently here in Australia the dealer sends fhe front axle, does wheel alignment and heel to toe adjustment to set up for australian roads.
Unfortunately seems my truck never had this done pre delivery!
Now the battle is on as to who pays. I'm with my local dealer who didn't sell the truck new and want $520 to do it. Have contacted the selling dealer and see if they will reimburse

Seems to me the selling dealer should be responsible, but I imagine that's going to be difficult to accomplish without pulling some teeth. Good luck!

 

[walemurphsprin]

Just upgraded to DX2. I haven't used it yet. Is their any tips or tricks I should now about.

 

[greasytshirt]

Just upgraded to DX2. I haven't used it yet. Is their any tips or tricks I should now about.

If you're familiar with the workings of DX, then DXII will come pretty easily. It's primary benefit, which you'll soon notice, is the ease of hopping between the separate modules on the truck instead of having to access each one separately (which takes forever). The interface tools (I use either a Nexiq or Denso DSTi) are both remarkably more stable than the old Hino Bowie and its serial cable.

 

[Delmolino]

Check rail limiter for leakage. Try aux tank before condemning pump.

Swapped out the fuel pump and we are getting fuel to the engine so it appears that was the issue. The driver took the truck out and after 5 minutes of driving it started acting up again. He could go about 5mph up hill and rolling down hills no more than 20mph. The truck feels a bit sluggish now and the RPMs wont go over 2000. Almost as if there is some type of airflow problem or turbo issue. It is very noticeable just by how the truck sounds when it is parked and you give it some gas. P0628 code just came up and also said "fuel pump @ circuit is low".

Just saw other posts in thread about this so we are checking all the connections right now to make sure everything is cleaned out.

 

[greasytshirt]

Swapped out the fuel pump and we are getting fuel to the engine so it appears that was the issue. The driver took the truck out and after 5 minutes of driving it started acting up again. He could go about 5mph up hill and rolling down hills no more than 20mph. The truck feels a bit sluggish now and the RPMs wont go over 2000. Almost as if there is some type of airflow problem or turbo issue. It is very noticeable just by how the truck sounds when it is parked and you give it some gas. P0628 code just came up and also said "fuel pump @ circuit is low".

Just saw other posts in thread about this so we are checking all the connections right now to make sure everything is cleaned out.

Make sure the scv connector is in good shape. Replace the whole pigtail if there's the tiniest doubt. If there's a momentary bad connection, it will go to max rail pressure and limp mode. This connector is not 100% problem proof.

Make sure the fuel temp sensor is plugged in. It's easy to overlook.

The fuel pump itself has no electrical components. What are you using to pull codes? That code description doesn't sound accurate.

 

[floridawheels]

Greetings Mr. GreasyTshirt..! (Great name for a wrench turner!)

2 issues for you... 2007 338, auto trans.

Issue #1:
I want to install another fuel tank. I will locate it on left side behind the factory tank. I am most likely going to get a used tank from a salvage yard. Probably from a KW or Pete, 100 gallon is my goal.
Questions:
* First question is about the stock set up. In stock configuration, with a gauge reading of say 1/8 tank if I fill only the right tank and put nothing in the left tank... how does the truck deal with this?
Now,onto the "Add a tank" questions:
*Is there anything specific I need to make sure is in/on the new tank? (Like a fuel pump etc?)
*What do I need to do to plumb it in? As in how... Do I simply "T" into the lines on the factory tank or??
How do I read the fuel level in the new tank? Do I tap into the factory gauge somehow or would it be better to add a new separate gauge?

Issue #2:
I started a new thread about this and am hoping that you might have some input. Here is a link: http://www.expeditersonline.com/for...ne-rpm-allison-trans-rear-end-gears-help.html

Thank you in advance for your help and thank you for bringing a professional level of experience here for us to have access to!

 

[greasytshirt]

Greetings Mr. GreasyTshirt..! (Great name for a wrench turner!)

2007 338, auto trans.

Issue #1:
I want to install another fuel tank. I will locate it on left side behind the factory tank. I am most likely going to get a used tank from a salvage yard. Probably from a KW or Pete, 100 gallon is my goal.
Questions:
* First question is about the stock set up. In stock configuration, with a gauge reading of say 1/8 tank if I fill only the right tank and put nothing in the left tank... how does the truck deal with this?
Now,onto the "Add a tank" questions:
*Is there anything specific I need to make sure is in/on the new tank? (Like a fuel pump etc?)
*What do I need to do to plumb it in? As in how... Do I simply "T" into the lines on the factory tank or??
How do I read the fuel level in the new tank? Do I tap into the factory gauge somehow or would it be better to add a new separate gauge?

Thank you in advance for your help and thank you for bringing a professional level of experience here for us to have access to!

Hi there. I addressed the speed/rpm issue in the other thread.

For dual tanks, all Hino does is tee the pickup and return lines. I seem to remember a bulletin addressing an uneven tank draw issue, but I don't remember offhand. I'd have to look it up.
If memory serves me correctly, I think they just tee'd both the supply and return lines. I mostly deal with trucks for small local delivery fleets, so I haven't messed with many of the dual tank deals. If the two tanks were tee'd on both the supply and return lines, when the air was initially purged from the system a siphon was created. The tank with a higher level will simply siphon into the lower tank until they're equal.

I'm fairly certain that on dual tank trucks, only one tank has a level sensor in it. If you wanted to monitor both and have it work with the stock gauge, you'd need a level sensor with the same resistance values. You could wire up a three way switch and toggle through either tank to make the gauge work with both. Or you could add an aftermarket level gauge somewhere. Or you can fill them both and just monitor one tank. Lots of options there.

 

[floridawheels]

Hi there. I addressed the speed/rpm issue in the other thread.

For dual tanks, all Hino does is tee the pickup and return lines. I seem to remember a bulletin addressing an uneven tank draw issue, but I don't remember offhand. I'd have to look it up.
If memory serves me correctly, I think they just tee'd both the supply and return lines. I mostly deal with trucks for small local delivery fleets, so I haven't messed with many of the dual tank deals. If the two tanks were tee'd on both the supply and return lines, when the air was initially purged from the system a siphon was created. The tank with a higher level will simply siphon into the lower tank until they're equal.

I'm fairly certain that on dual tank trucks, only one tank has a level sensor in it. If you wanted to monitor both and have it work with the stock gauge, you'd need a level sensor with the same resistance values. You could wire up a three way switch and toggle through either tank to make the gauge work with both. Or you could add an aftermarket level gauge somewhere. Or you can fill them both and just monitor one tank. Lots of options there.

THANK YOU.. (I'll look at the other thread in a moment).

Since the factory tanks are simply tee'd together I assume I can simply tee the new tank into the system as well and all 3 tanks will equalize (Eventually) and I only need the single currently installed gauge to read the total (equalized) volume.

Assuming that is correct, this brings what is probably a final question. The fuel lines (both pick up and return) enter the tank at the top. I understand what your saying about the system siphoning from tank to tank and the "Initial air purge" is necessary to make the siphon deal work. So what happens if you run the truck out of fuel? How does it "Re-purge" the air? And just as important... Once I tee into the current lines, how do I purge the air in order to get it all to work again/now? Or will adding fuel to the full tank level take care of purging enough air that it will pull enough suction to get passed the small amount of remaining air and just keep working?

Thanks again!!