You're just gonna need to call me, because I'm going to have to write the Hino version of the Iliad to explain what to do.
When do you plan on working on it next?
Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.
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You're just gonna need to call me, because I'm going to have to write the Hino version of the Iliad to explain what to do.
When do you plan on working on it next?
Let's concentrate on the 2011 right now. The 2010 looks like it'll get injectors under warranty. That'll solve a lot of it, especially if the ITV and exhaust brake are adjusted at the same time.
Connect Hino Bowie. This is gonna be hard, I haven't used Hino Bowie in over a year.
Connect to the ECU, read codes, system fix. Look at system protection data. What's the DPF outlet temp? Write it down, then reset it. While you are in there, go to the customization screen and find the line that says "PM amount of piling up". Change it to 2.5
Disconnect from the ECU and connect to the BCU. Remove the atomizer nozzle. go to activation test, turn on the ignition coil. You should have spark across the ignitors. Watch it for three minutes. Turn off coil. Reinstall atomizer nozzle. Unplug the flame temp sensor (this will stop it from firing the burner during the next step). Unscrew the large braided line from the CAV. Start the engine. Turn combustion air valve on and off around 30 times. It helps if you have a helper here. Air should blow out when it's on and nothing when its off. If that's ok, shut the engine off, reconnect everything including flame temp sensor, turn key on.
While inside the BCU, go to data monitor. Monitor the following: Engine speed, engine torque, exhaust gas temp burner inlet, flame temp, exhaust gas temp burner outlet, target exhaust gas burner outlet, atomizer air pressure, atomizer fuel pressure, atomizer nozzle pressure, burner operation state (I think. Some names changed). Start the engine. Start data monitor. Press the regen button (the DPR graph should be at three or 4). It will do some ignitor cleaning, prepare for regen, etc. When you see target and actual exhaust gas temp match, it's about to fire off. When it does, flame temp should immediately climb and quickly go over a thousand. It'll eventually taper off at around 1500-1700 degrees and then very slowly climb. In the meantime, atomizer air pressure will go from around 100-120 as the air compressor kicks on and off. Atomizer fuel pressure should be between 80-100. Nozzle pressure (important!) should be between 40-50. It generally hangs out around 48, but even if it spikes up to 52 on occasion, that's ok. 55 will set a code. These higher pressures indicate that the nozzle is clogged or the tiny braided line is damaged.
When it's done, save it as a .txt file, then email it to me. I'll graph it, if it translates correctly.
As long as there's nozzle pressure, spark, and air from the CAV, it'll burn. If it doesn't know it's getting hot, it'll register a lost flame event (which will be in the burner event log, but I don't remember how to do that Using the old DX program. DXII is superior in every way.) The flame temp should go up quickly, but if it lags or starts going down, id suspect the flame temp sensor if you've confirmed that everything else is ok.
What I've described covers 80% of the problems you'll encounter.
Oh, since you have the computer, go back into the ECU, into customization, and find the line that says something like "rental car flag". Change the value from 0 to 1. Now you can do a manual regen despite the number of bars on the DPR graph. This is handy for times when you know you'll be sitting and the truck will want to regen, but it's not ready yet.
For codes that just won't go away, there's a line in either activation test (ECU) or in ECU customization that says something like "Release repeat offense". Select it or hit go or whatever. This will allow you to reset a code that won't go away. I guess they do this to keep generic scan tools from wiping way certain codes. After you've released the repeated offense, you can clear the codes. The BCU will have codes in it too, and they are separate from the ECU codes. Same with the DCU and VCS. It takes forever jumping back and forth between the modules like this, and that was addressed with DXII. DXII is very similar to Isuzu's IDSS diagnostic software, which is very good.
You are going to get lots of practice cleaning that radiator. You can try to close any gaps between the intercooler and radiator with adhesive foam tape or something, but they will still get stuck in there. Maybe some screen mesh or something?
That's normal. It's got a variable nozzle turbo in it, and if the ECU decides it wants more boost, it can command the the turbo to spool up at any engine rpm.
i will be working on it Monday morning. I will give you a call tomorrow. There were active codes when checked the burner yesterday. I will let you know once I get back to working on it tomorrow.
Roger that. I pm'd you my cell #.
walemurphsprin
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Iam having a failed regen issue on a 2011, I have replaced the igniters and confirmed that they are working, also checked the cav and atomizer nozzle, it gets to the point of detecting flame the flame temp starts to rise and continues to rise after the regen fails I have a data monitor file if you would like to see Ill send it in a PM
The two liquids, while close to each other in a couple of places, would have to travel through a significant amount of metal to mix. It's always human error, up to this point anyway.
Now, if there is coolant in the def tank, I'd blame the def tank sensor. But it sounds like a shop replaced a ton of unnecessary parts.
We had spoken earlier about one of my trucks having a fuel restriction problem whether it was the scv or some type of blockage in the line. We attempted to swap out the scv for a new one but the dealer sent us one that does not match the one we have. So until we get the part we re-installed the old part. The next day the driver said the check engine light came on without even pushing it up any steep hills and 5 minutes down the road it lost all power. Truck turned off and when attempting to turn it over it wont fire up even though the engine is trying to turn over. In the picture attached you can see the visible difference between the old one and the two new ones they sent us. Does this confirm the problem lies in the scv or should we be going back through the lines again?
Use the middle one with the adapter that should have come with it.
The left and middle ones are identical if you pull the tip off of the middle one. The tip and adapter plate make it adapt to your older model pump. The current short scv is ancient and immediately suspect. They don't even make them like that any more. I suspect many of those have already been replaced because they were problematic.
Stall and no restart is indicative of scv failure as long as the pump has fuel going to it.
Never pressurize the tank to prime these. Just make sure the fuel filter is full by pumping the hand primer until resistance is felt. Crank in 15 second intervals until it starts.
While you're at it, pull the inlet banjo bolt and adapter off of the filter housing and make sure the banjo and check valve are clean. Fuel should gush from the filter outlet while using primer pump if threre's no restriction.
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checked and cleaned the banjo bolt and the valve but our fuel filter doesn't have a primer pump. It is a fuel separator/fuel filter combo. We did replace the scv and checked that fuel was getting to that point but when new scv was installed the engine fired up but wouldn't continue to run (after a few seconds it seemed like it ran out of gas). We are in the process of checking the electrical lines to make sure these are all working properly. any other suggestions would be helpful.
It sometimes takes quite a bit of cranking to reprime. No more than a full minute, usually. If still no start, bypass the filter entirely and see if it will run off of an auxiliary fuel source. A 5 gallon can will work.
When the SCV is removed we can get fuel to come up to that point. once we plug it in we turn it over for 30 sec or so and still wont fire up so it seems as though the valve isnt opening because fuel is getting to valve without it. We tested the SCV and the fuel just isn't making it to the injectors. Fuel filter is full but nothing is draining out of it.
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Unplug the scv snd try again. It will go to max fuel pressure.
We tried that and the fuel isn't getting to the injectors. We removed the return line on the tank and there was little fuel coming out while we were turning the truck over. Bench tested old SCV and it was working and so is new valve. At this point I think it may be the fuel pump itself.
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You may be right.
Check rail limiter for leakage. Try aux tank before condemning pump.
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