Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.
- Thread starter greasytshirt
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- 2016 hino
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Ok front brake job done, 2 new rotors, 91 each from ebay, new brake pads, 50 from autozone, and some new grease for the wheel bearings. Add in some of my time and blood (literally), and no more abs light!!!
Next project, find an aftermarket ac condenser so I can get that going again....
Next project, find an aftermarket ac condenser so I can get that going again....
rhitrucking
Active Expediter
I have a good amount of coolant leaking from under the dash. I assume its the heater core as its coming from that area. Any tips or instructions on replacing one on an 08 338? Looks like the bottom dash needs to come off. Any help appreciated!
Never had one apart that far. It's probably gonna suck. Have fun!
Edit: I imagine a number of the bolts are captive in the heater box, and are removed from the engine side of the firewall. You're probably going to need to recover the refrigerant and remove the evaporator at the same time.
Never done it before, so I don't know.
What kind of coolant were you running in it?
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If you find one, let me know! What year is your truck again? Some older conventionals had a large tube on the side of the condenser with a cap on the bottom. The desiccant bag sat inside this tube. The tube served as the receiver drier.
Brand new to this forum. I hope I'm asking this question in the appropriate section. I have a 2012 HINO. vin# 5PVNV8JL7B4S50128. I am replacing the upper and lower valve cover gaskets. Can you provide the torque specs for this project?
Engine ID# AXH07-7JVB
motor model# J08E-VB
Engine ID# AXH07-7JVB
motor model# J08E-VB
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A 2012 has a leaking rocker box? That's unusual.
Gimme a minute.
Edit: You're gonna need a whole lot more on your shopping list than two gaskets. Read through this thread and find my dire warnings about the fuel return piping under the valve cover.
If you take the rocker box off, you HAVE TO REPLACE the fuel return piping, the injector banjo bolt sealing washers, and the one banjo bolt with the + mark on it.
If the line kinks while installing it, it will crack, but not immediately. When it does, it'll fill the crankcase with fuel then kick a rod out of the block after the engine runs away or the bearings seize.
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walemurphsprin
Rookie Expediter
I have a 2011 conventional truck. the coolant has a strong smell of ammonia the I believe to be def. what are you thoughs on were this could be coming from.
Generally this is caused by failure of the pickup in the def tank, or the urea dosing unit.
epoxyman
Seasoned Expediter
Well after a long time looking I will be getting the little Hino 195 its a 2014 model new.
I will be picking it up on Oct 6 after it gets back from Morgan truck body place.
Getting a 20' box with a waltco 2500lb life gate installed.
Hate to see my older box truck go but looking at a lot of happy miles in my new ride.
I like to ask dose anybody know were I can get a locking DEF cap and locking fuel cap for the little 195 that has them online and do I need vented or non-vented caps.
Also do they make floor mats for inside the cab for this truck.
Thanks Ron.
I will be picking it up on Oct 6 after it gets back from Morgan truck body place.
Getting a 20' box with a waltco 2500lb life gate installed.
Hate to see my older box truck go but looking at a lot of happy miles in my new ride.
I like to ask dose anybody know were I can get a locking DEF cap and locking fuel cap for the little 195 that has them online and do I need vented or non-vented caps.
Also do they make floor mats for inside the cab for this truck.
Thanks Ron.
Hi Ron,
I just browsed through the accessory catalog, and it doesn't look like they have much for the cabover trucks at all. There's all sorts of crap available to stick on a conventional.
I know they don't offer a locking DEF tank cap. I know this has been addressed, but nothing available yet. The tank has an external vent line, so the cap doesn't have to be vented. The fuel tank filler neck generally has a vent too, but you might want to have someone identify it for you first, just in case.
epoxyman
Seasoned Expediter
Ok thanks for the info kind of sad they don't make much accessory for the little trucks.
May have to find some sheets of floor mat stuff and make my own and for the fuel tank I may have to look more on the net to see what fits same with the DEF cap.
looking forward to picking it up soon after looking for months and with your input the Hino was hands down winner for me.
Ron.
May have to find some sheets of floor mat stuff and make my own and for the fuel tank I may have to look more on the net to see what fits same with the DEF cap.
looking forward to picking it up soon after looking for months and with your input the Hino was hands down winner for me.
Ron.
I'm sure you'll be happy with it. The ones we've sold basically come in for PMs, and that's it. Very few problems. That's actually a bit of a problem. Since nothing ever breaks, no one gets good at fixing them. Haha!
The only one we've had any real problems with had gone for a swim. The cylinder head was the only part of the drivetrain that was not underwater. As you can imagine, it's had a couple of electrical problems, but nothing nearly as bad as expected. I've replaced the transmission range switch, the NOx sensors, and a few other things (and the transmission and axle oil like 5 times), but it refuses to quit.
Edit: A few other stories about these trucks. Sold one to a customer who immediately put a tankful of gasoline into it and got on the interstate. A few exits later, it quit. It was towed back, the gas was drained out, filters replaced, lines blew out, etc, etc. Refilled with diesel. No harm done.
Another had picked up a tankful of rotten fuel. Idk, it smelled weird and it was cloudy. It must have had water in suspension, because it blew an injector tip off and the engine would kick back and run backward for several seconds. This caused a panic in the shop, as you can imagine. "It's running with the key off!" Once again, clean out the fuel system. Replaced the injectors (under warranty, which some people wouldn't have done), truck runs great, has had no problems since.
I don't know what that was all about. Seems to me a diesel fuel distributor in Richmond sent out a bunch of bad fuel, we had five trucks in a week with problems that led back to contaminated fuel.
Ok, now I'm just rambling.
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epoxyman
Seasoned Expediter
Good to hear I know ill be back hear asking a ton of stuff how this work and that work LOL.
The sales guy told me he will go over the truck with me again befor we take it home.
When I went to take it for a test drive and talk money he gave me like a 45 min walk around the truck telling me all kinds of stuff so he was a great guy to deal with.
Should I carry any DEF with me or just wait till it gets 3/4 low and then fill it up? And what kind should I get. I read about guys buying or so they say (old DEF) and it can cause a mess. don't want that to happen
Just want to make sure I start off right. My wife's truck is a dodge cummins and all it ask for is good oil and fresh air and fuel filters and its good to go.
The sales guy told me he will go over the truck with me again befor we take it home.
When I went to take it for a test drive and talk money he gave me like a 45 min walk around the truck telling me all kinds of stuff so he was a great guy to deal with.
Should I carry any DEF with me or just wait till it gets 3/4 low and then fill it up? And what kind should I get. I read about guys buying or so they say (old DEF) and it can cause a mess. don't want that to happen
Just want to make sure I start off right. My wife's truck is a dodge cummins and all it ask for is good oil and fresh air and fuel filters and its good to go.
That's rare. A good portion of new customers that show up at our shop with a truck they bought elsewhere have a ton of questions that were never answered at the time of purchase.
Should I carry any DEF with me or just wait till it gets 3/4 low and then fill it up? And what kind should I get. I read about guys buying or so they say (old DEF) and it can cause a mess. don't want that to happen
Just want to make sure I start off right. My wife's truck is a dodge cummins and all it ask for is good oil and fresh air and fuel filters and its good to go.
I'd let it run low then refill it.
For the life of me, I can't remember which brand we use.
Hi there.
This is generally one of two things.
Your injectors could be going south. Because you have a dpf, bad injectors can't be ignored for long. Eventually excess soot will cause the dpf to overheat during regens, causing it to fail.
It's expensive.
Second cause: The intake throttle valve has not been modified. They can stick shut during cold starts, causing one hell of a racket. Take the cold side CAC hose off and look into the valve. Are there three holes drilled into it on the bottom? If not, I can tell you how.
Edit: depending on the in-service date and mileage of your truck, it may have some warranty left. Contact your local dealer.
While you have them on the phone, see if the A8440/A8510 recalls are due. This involves an ecu reflash which calculates the amount of soot generated in a different method than before, which means it won't allow it to get packed with soot as badly. It also involves an inspection of the DPF and an adjustment of the exhaust brake, if needed. The 08-10 trucks rely on the exhaust brake being accurately adjusted, otherwise manual regens will be affected. If your DPF is discovered to be damaged during this recall, you get a new one, no questions asked. If your truck is running oddly, they might do a few tests. If your injectors are found to be bad, you'll have to replace them to retain the warranty on the new DPF, if you received one.
Is the tailpipe on your truck relatively clean, or does it look like the inside of an unswept chimney? You should be able to run your finger inside it and have it remain relatively clean. If it's coal black, the dpf is probably already dead.
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bharris1029
Rookie Expediter
How hard is it to replace Nitrous Oxide Sensors in the SCR system? Can I do this myself?
The dealer is stating that both of them are malfunctioning/not communicating properly.
The dealer is stating that both of them are malfunctioning/not communicating properly.
It's pretty easy. You have to take the right steps and heat shield off, and a bracket at the rear of the cab. The sensor body is a 7/8" hex, but they seem to want to round off. I usually give them a twist with a small pipe wrench. Never had one stick. The electronic part is just 4 10mm nuts. You'll have to save the cable clamps off of the old ones and put them on the new ones.
The check engine light, if it has one, may not go out by itself. If it's already in derate, it'll have to be cleared with the dealer software. If it's throwing the light on but the light goes out for a while after a restart, it's ok to just put the sensors on.
If the DEF is old or diluted or whatever, this can affect the sensor readings.
Generally speaking, if the DEF is good, the DEF injector is injecting, and the DPF and DOC haven't exploded and sent shrapnel into the SCR, then it's just flakey NOx sensors. Since the reading of one is compared to that of the other, there's not really a method to decide which is bad (unless there's simply a complete communication failure [they communicate on the CAN BUS]), so both are replaced.
The earlier style (identified by a stepped sensor tip) failed all the time. The later style (looks like the tip of a normal oxygen sensor) are much more robust. I imagine most of the earlier style ones were replaced under warranty, and new trucks come with the later style.
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macpl
Rookie Expediter
Hello, first off I came to this thread because of major issues on my 08 Hino 358.
ok So it has 330,000 km on it, we have been trouble free for a long time on the truck and recently after out latest DPR maintenance light came on i have been having major issues.
So back in late August the light came on in the morning, took it to a Hino dealer to have them check the status and respec anything before the warrenty ended. They said everything was good, 1 week after that i went back to them because I was in regen mode every 50-60km, the respec'ed the Engine Break and everything was ok. Until a week after that, I was getting a lot of bogging and hesitation. I took it back to them and they said that my DPR system was GONE and my INJECTORS where GONE. They wanted us to pay for everything but we took it to another Hino service and they compared charts between that of the DPR maintenance light datasheet from back in August and noticed that the other Hino Server lied to us. So we had Hino Canada pay for the entire DPR system and Injectors. Everything started to work perfect again, until it started bogging and hesitating once again. Then I noticed a fuel leak right where the fuel line goes into the engine.
So we go back to the same Hino dealer that replaced our DPR and Injectors to have him solve the fuel leak. They replaced two fuel lines, (5 & 6). But went they went for test drive they had NO POWER. So they found the Turbo to be faulty, So we replaced the Turbo and power was back. After a week and a half of them doing the fuel line, and turbo replacement because we had to wait couple days for the turbo to come in, I go pick it up, bob tail to my trailer, NO PROBLEMS. I hook up load up and drive. NO PROBLEMS. It hits regen mode at 100km and burns away fine except for the MASSIVE power lose i get. Basically, im going down the highway at 105km and it brings me down to 55-60 km/hour with no power. My RPM keep dropping and dropping and dropping, until it finishes the regen mode and I get back FULL POWER. Eventually the chkeng light came on and check for what code it gave out. P0400. So i take it back to them today and they tell me this was the same code it gave them when i was in for the whole fuel line and turbo replacement, but they said that code is for the EGR Valve.
So we go and bring the truck back, we test, we test drive, everything is ok. So i tell them put in regen mode and it barely even goes over 45KM. I dont even hear the Turbo spool up when its in regen mode, but i know it should and i should hear it even if its in regen mode. We tried a fresh new updated ECU unit and nothing changed. EGR Valve has not yet been replaced but most likely they will replace it for the heck of it to see if it is the problem tomorrow. Even the tech is telling me, if it was EGR valve, u would feel it from idle, because it would be rough and you would have no power no matter if regen mode on or off. Also they noticed the TPS was a bit off today so they are going to fix that in the morning.
So heres a list of everything that has been replaced. I hope i made this understandable. if not i can clarify anything just ask. Just get this that when i HIT REGEN MODE I get NO power.
Late August
DPR light On -everything ok
Mid September
Respec'ed Engine break
Late September into October
Injectors
DPR System
Fuel lines
Throttle Valve
Turbo
Tested with new ECU as of oct15/14 No Change so ECU not problem. They will adjust the TPS tomorrow.
We are lost and even the tech has been in contact with engineers from States and even in Japan and no body does not know what to do. Please Help.
ok So it has 330,000 km on it, we have been trouble free for a long time on the truck and recently after out latest DPR maintenance light came on i have been having major issues.
So back in late August the light came on in the morning, took it to a Hino dealer to have them check the status and respec anything before the warrenty ended. They said everything was good, 1 week after that i went back to them because I was in regen mode every 50-60km, the respec'ed the Engine Break and everything was ok. Until a week after that, I was getting a lot of bogging and hesitation. I took it back to them and they said that my DPR system was GONE and my INJECTORS where GONE. They wanted us to pay for everything but we took it to another Hino service and they compared charts between that of the DPR maintenance light datasheet from back in August and noticed that the other Hino Server lied to us. So we had Hino Canada pay for the entire DPR system and Injectors. Everything started to work perfect again, until it started bogging and hesitating once again. Then I noticed a fuel leak right where the fuel line goes into the engine.
So we go back to the same Hino dealer that replaced our DPR and Injectors to have him solve the fuel leak. They replaced two fuel lines, (5 & 6). But went they went for test drive they had NO POWER. So they found the Turbo to be faulty, So we replaced the Turbo and power was back. After a week and a half of them doing the fuel line, and turbo replacement because we had to wait couple days for the turbo to come in, I go pick it up, bob tail to my trailer, NO PROBLEMS. I hook up load up and drive. NO PROBLEMS. It hits regen mode at 100km and burns away fine except for the MASSIVE power lose i get. Basically, im going down the highway at 105km and it brings me down to 55-60 km/hour with no power. My RPM keep dropping and dropping and dropping, until it finishes the regen mode and I get back FULL POWER. Eventually the chkeng light came on and check for what code it gave out. P0400. So i take it back to them today and they tell me this was the same code it gave them when i was in for the whole fuel line and turbo replacement, but they said that code is for the EGR Valve.
So we go and bring the truck back, we test, we test drive, everything is ok. So i tell them put in regen mode and it barely even goes over 45KM. I dont even hear the Turbo spool up when its in regen mode, but i know it should and i should hear it even if its in regen mode. We tried a fresh new updated ECU unit and nothing changed. EGR Valve has not yet been replaced but most likely they will replace it for the heck of it to see if it is the problem tomorrow. Even the tech is telling me, if it was EGR valve, u would feel it from idle, because it would be rough and you would have no power no matter if regen mode on or off. Also they noticed the TPS was a bit off today so they are going to fix that in the morning.
So heres a list of everything that has been replaced. I hope i made this understandable. if not i can clarify anything just ask. Just get this that when i HIT REGEN MODE I get NO power.
Late August
DPR light On -everything ok
Mid September
Respec'ed Engine break
Late September into October
Injectors
DPR System
Fuel lines
Throttle Valve
Turbo
Tested with new ECU as of oct15/14 No Change so ECU not problem. They will adjust the TPS tomorrow.
We are lost and even the tech has been in contact with engineers from States and even in Japan and no body does not know what to do. Please Help.
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