Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.

Status
Not open for further replies.

EASYTRADER

Expert Expediter
What is really sad is I know this issue was caused by ****ty mechanics. But I can't gamble another 15k.

Hino makes a decent truck but their dealership system sucks.
 
M

mafiacopies

Guest
Hello need some help,

What is the valve clearance for the 1995 hino engine J07, 5 cylinder
also the connecting rod torque
and the cylinder head clearance,

Thanks in advance...
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
What is really sad is I know this issue was caused by ****ty mechanics. But I can't gamble another 15k.

Hino makes a decent truck but their dealership system sucks.
I'm very sorry to hear that, and I know exactly what you mean. I have literally run around the shop yelling "Righteous Indignation! " when I see someone half-assing something, especially in regards to engine cleanliness and air conditioning.

I've mentioned before that Hino dealers are almost always dealers of other more popular brands. The majority of attention goes to the other brands, especially mechanics and parts guys. No one learns how to do anything properly. Even the office people need training on the warranty system. If you know how to use it, you can get paid for doing every warranty repair without cutting yourself short.

Then again, every hino training class is booked months in advance. Dealerships are trying to catch up.
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Hello need some help,

What is the valve clearance for the 1995 hino engine J07, 5 cylinder
also the connecting rod torque
and the cylinder head clearance,

Thanks in advance...

Define cylinder head clearance. I'm not sure what you mean.

Rod bolts: 51lb/ft +1/4 turn+1/8 turn
Cylinder head 43 lb/ft+1/4+1/4
Injector clamp bolt 18 lb/ft
Rocker support 35lb/ft
cam bearing cap 23lb/ft

Valve lash
Intake 0.30mm
Exhaust 0.45mm
 

balance

Rookie Expediter
Hi there I recently purchase a new Hino 268 with automatic transmission, its a 2015 just picked up yesterday. New to this whole exhaust brake thing. Dealership told me to leave the exhaust brake on? I check online and getting mixed review. I checked the owner manual saying how to use the exhanust brake

The exhaust brake enhances the normal engine braking effect and helps reduce foot brake applications. Use it when driving down a steep or long grade with heavy loads or when slowing down from high speed.

While driving with the exhaust brake, exhaust braking will be temporarily cancelled automatically in the following situations
-when the clutch pedal is depressed
-when transmission is in neutral position after shifting
-when abs is turned on
-when engine speed decreases to less than 755 rpm, the exhaust brake will turn off automatically, even if the exhaust brake switch has been activated

also to warm up system in the owner manual

this system is used when you want to heater and defroster to work as soon as possible after starting the engine in cold weather, or you want to increase efficiency of heater while the vehicle is stopped for a long period of time.
1. apply the parking brake firmly and place gearshift lever to P
2. start the engine and lower the exhaust brake switch lever

will this increase the warm up time engine needs?

Also should I use exhaust brake on snow or rain?

Does it damage the engine if i start the truck with exhaust brake on?

dealership also told me how to do def regren if it flash amber :/ hope that doesn't happen...

thanks
 
Last edited:

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Hi there I recently purchase a new Hino 268 with automatic transmission, its a 2015 just picked up yesterday. New to this whole exhaust brake thing. Dealership told me to leave the exhaust brake on? I check online and getting mixed review. I checked the owner manual saying how to use the exhanust brake

The exhaust brake enhances the normal engine braking effect and helps reduce foot brake applications. Use it when driving down a steep or long grade with heavy loads or when slowing down from high speed.

While driving with the exhaust brake, exhaust braking will be temporarily cancelled automatically in the following situations
-when the clutch pedal is depressed
-when transmission is in neutral position after shifting
-when abs is turned on
-when engine speed decreases to less than 755 rpm, the exhaust brake will turn off automatically, even if the exhaust brake switch has been activated

also to warm up system in the owner manual

this system is used when you want to heater and defroster to work as soon as possible after starting the engine in cold weather, or you want to increase efficiency of heater while the vehicle is stopped for a long period of time.
1. apply the parking brake firmly and place gearshift lever to P
2. start the engine and lower the exhaust brake switch lever

will this increase the warm up time engine needs?

Also should I use exhaust brake on snow or rain?

Does it damage the engine if i start the truck with exhaust brake on?

dealership also told me how to do def regren if it flash amber :/ hope that doesn't happen...

thanks


Hi there.

Generally speaking, we tell people to leave the exhaust brake off when you are driving unless you need it, as it has disrupted the auto regen process. This is less of an issue now that lots of computer reprogramming has been done. The 2015 should be largely unaffected by this because it uses a different dpf heating system.

Yes, it will force a quick warm up. It will use about twice the fuel at idle doing this, so unless you're thawing it out on a frigid morning, I'd avoid leaving it on longer than necessary.

I would avoid using the exhaust brake in snow or heavy rain. Since there is no connection with the antilock brakes, if you manage to get into a skid the results will be scary.

The ecu won't allow the exhaust brake to activate during engine cranking. Nothing to worry about there.



What the dealer didn't tell you : There's a graph on the dash labeled DPR. When it hits 3 bars, it will automatically regen while you are driving, and you won't even notice. If you come to a complete stop during this process, an amber warning in the dash will light up, saying "regeneration in progress". What this really should have said is "exhaust is hot". Basically, don't park in dry grass when that warning is up, because it WILL set stuff on fire. You can totally catch cardboard on fire if you hold it in front of the exhaust during a regen.

Any time the DPR graph is at 3 bars or higher, you can push the regen button on the dash and it will do a manual regen. Don't disturb it while it's doing this unless you have to. It won't take very long.

If the bars on the dash hit 5, the regen light on the dash will start flashing, and a voice will tell you that a manual regen is required.

If you ignore all the warnings and drive it until the thing hits ten bars, you are going to damage the dpf. It will melt.

Really though, the 2015 auto regen cycle is very fast and you should have no problems out of it for a long time.

Is this a box truck? Or is it something like a rollback, paper shredder, or a garbage truck? Sometimes some trucks in applications like this that have a ton of idle time have problems doing regens, but there are some things that can be customized in the computer to give greater flexibility.

Finally, change the fuel filter at least every 10k miles, despite what anyone tells you. Use either Hino or Fleetgard EleMax filters. The fuel filter has to have very fine filter media or water particles will pass through the filter and damage the injectors. Don't use fuel additives, unless it's an emergency and you need antigel protection. Many fuel additives will disperse water, which sounds good but all that means is it gets emulsified in the fuel, passes through the fuel filter media, and damages the injectors.
 

balance

Rookie Expediter
Thanks greasytshirt :D

The truck has a 26 feet box with a walco tail gate. When I need to use the tail gate, I would need to run the truck at idle, will that use def? what is this whole def regen thing? to clean the def system?

well with the hino warranty I get

"
  • 1 year scheduled maintenance, up to 50,000 kilometers
  • Complimentary engine oil changes and chassis lubrication services for years 2 and 3, up to 150,000 kilometers; (Engine Oil, Differential Fluid and Chassis Lubrication)"

wonder if that includes fuel filters, I know how important it is to keep the injectors clean =) I change oil and grease my truck and fuel filter on every 2nd oil change.

I was surprise when I got the truck, the walco tail gate doesn't come with a safety lock like my old holland tailgate. I asked dealership and even call walco to confirm. walco told me they redesign the cylinder and it has value locks ??? so it's suppose to hold in the pressure if there is malfunction or leak.... they didn't even put in the lock chain for me =(

my last truck was an international 04 vt 365 (had lots of issues with it, and engine finally blow up). my dad used to own the hino FB series so I know how good hino was back then not sure about the current production. Hopefully not too much trouble. this whole def system is kind of scary, all manufacture have problems, hopefully it has been fine tune now. I hear about it from tow truckers and from my truck parking lot neighbour and they aren't good stories :p
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Thanks greasytshirt :D

The truck has a 26 feet box with a walco tail gate. When I need to use the tail gate, I would need to run the truck at idle, will that use def? what is this whole def regen thing? to clean the def system?

well with the hino warranty I get

"
  • 1 year scheduled maintenance, up to 50,000 kilometers
  • Complimentary engine oil changes and chassis lubrication services for years 2 and 3, up to 150,000 kilometers; (Engine Oil, Differential Fluid and Chassis Lubrication)"

wonder if that includes fuel filters, I know how important it is to keep the injectors clean =) I change oil and grease my truck and fuel filter on every 2nd oil change.

I was surprise when I got the truck, the walco tail gate doesn't come with a safety lock like my old holland tailgate. I asked dealership and even call walco to confirm. walco told me they redesign the cylinder and it has value locks ??? so it's suppose to hold in the pressure if there is malfunction or leak.... they didn't even put in the lock chain for me =(

my last truck was an international 04 vt 365 (had lots of issues with it, and engine finally blow up). my dad used to own the hino FB series so I know how good hino was back then not sure about the current production. Hopefully not too much trouble. this whole def system is kind of scary, all manufacture have problems, hopefully it has been fine tune now. I hear about it from tow truckers and from my truck parking lot neighbour and they aren't good stories :p

There are two different things going on with the exhaust system. One part of it removes soot from the exhaust. The other part gives a serious reduction in the amount of nitrogen oxides the engine emits. I don't know why they insist on calling the first part a DPR, it's a DPF (diesel particulate filter). The dpf filters out all of the soot the engine makes, then it periodically burns it out during a regeneration. Using various methods, they raise the DPF's temperature up to between 1000-1100 F.

The second part is called SCR (selective catalyst reduction). The def is squirted into the hot exhaust where it turns into ammonia gas. Now, I'm no chemist, but the NO2 and NH3 break apart, some other bonds form, and you're left with N2 and H2O. Something like that.

At idle, it'll barely use any def, if any. I think a tank is supposed to last around a thousand miles. Don't put anything but clean def in the def tank! The truck will know immediately, and it'll make you stop and drain the tank and refill it.
 

balance

Rookie Expediter
I went out of the city today for a job. Going up Hill its so slow, compare to my old international v8 VT 365. Is that normal, I even out it on D instead of OD
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
I went out of the city today for a job. Going up Hill its so slow, compare to my old international v8 VT 365. Is that normal, I even out it on D instead of OD

It makes 220 hp. How much did the VT365 make?

Do you know what the rear end gear ratio is? What's the engine rpm at say, 60mph?
 

balance

Rookie Expediter
It makes 220 hp. How much did the VT365 make?

Do you know what the rear end gear ratio is? What's the engine rpm at say, 60mph?

The model I have is 268-271 2015

http://www.hinocanada.com/pdf/specs/2015/Hino Spec Sheets 2015_268 english.pdf

it has an allison 2200RDS transmission, on pdf, it says rear axle gear ratio is 5.57?

I have to check what rpm it is again, because we use KM here. The truck is quite and smooth when on flat surface, but sometimes when accelerating it kicks (like maybe once or twice so far). when its going up hill, engine is loud and goes slow =/

my old international is 2004 model 4200 with vt 365 with like 19-20L engine, changing oil was fun... :p

Just wonder if i'm doing something wrong
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
The model I have is 268-271 2015

http://www.hinocanada.com/pdf/specs/2015/Hino Spec Sheets 2015_268 english.pdf

it has an allison 2200RDS transmission, on pdf, it says rear axle gear ratio is 5.57?

I have to check what rpm it is again, because we use KM here. The truck is quite and smooth when on flat surface, but sometimes when accelerating it kicks (like maybe once or twice so far). when its going up hill, engine is loud and goes slow =/

my old international is 2004 model 4200 with vt 365 with like 19-20L engine, changing oil was fun... :p

Just wonder if i'm doing something wrong

You're not doing anything wrong.

Compared to this truck, what rpm was your old truck turning at say 100kph? The Hino is running between 1650-1700 rpm, correct?

There's a switch near the shifter, labeled pwr/econ, correct? If you were to stick in in pwr, it'll delay upshifts (it will rev higher) than it will in econ, which will let you accelerate a bit faster.

That kick you are feeling...is it during a downshift? These transmissions tune their shift quality as you drive it. Sometimes when they're new you feel the occasional odd bump or flare, it should learn not to do that pretty quickly. The fan on the engine can also make an incredible noise when the fan clutch engages. It takes several horsepower to turn that fan at high rpm, and the loss is noticeable.


Essentially, the Hino is a little heavier than your old 4200, but making roughly the same power, and it's rear gear ratio is kind of tall. It will do fine on the highway, but struggle on hills.

If you're mostly running up and down hills, you might consider doing a gear change, but not much else is going to help.

It's my understanding that one could get the 260HP engine from a 338 in a 268 for 2015. That would have been nice.
 

coalminer

Veteran Expediter
Retired Expediter
Well it looks like my vnt controller went, It acted up yesterday and I sprayed it down and it was working again but today I can't get it going. It's going to be a long slow ride to El Paso since I can't get it over 50mph.

Are there any other reasons that the computer would limit rpms to 1800?

I know you said that the vnt for that year could not be bought seperate from the turbo, do you know what the ballpark amount is for the whole assembly?

It's a 2005 268

Thanks!!!
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Well it looks like my vnt controller went, It acted up yesterday and I sprayed it down and it was working again but today I can't get it going. It's going to be a long slow ride to El Paso since I can't get it over 50mph.

Are there any other reasons that the computer would limit rpms to 1800?

I know you said that the vnt for that year could not be bought seperate from the turbo, do you know what the ballpark amount is for the whole assembly?

It's a 2005 268

Thanks!!!

I don't think vnt controllers are available separate for ANy year. If someone knows where to get them, let me know!

Fuel pressure high and low can also trigger limp mode. You want to get the codes before replacing something unnecessary.

Price is dependent on individual dealer markup. Expect $2000 plus $500 core. I recommend the turbo install kit, $250, it has all the studs, nuts, bolts, gaskets, sealing washers you'll need to avoid another trip to the dealer. The old studs are next to impossible to remove, and hardware store junk will fail at those temps. Reassemble with nickel antiseize. It'll make any future diassembly a hell of a lot easier.

Reseal the oil cooler at the same time, unless its been done recently. Its only possible with the turbo removed. Get the three D rings from the dealer, and use permatex right stuff rtv. It holds up better than anything else we've tried.

Shoot me a pm with your truck vin. Our markup is a lot less than many other places. If we don't have it in stock, we can ship it directly from the hino warehouse to you.
 

coalminer

Veteran Expediter
Retired Expediter
Well I have found that if I tap on the linkage and then take off, it will work ok until the next time I turn the engine off. Guessing it is freezing in the parked position?

Sending you the vin number, let me know what you think, thanks for all the help!!!!
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Well I have found that if I tap on the linkage and then take off, it will work ok until the next time I turn the engine off. Guessing it is freezing in the parked position?

Sending you the vin number, let me know what you think, thanks for all the help!!!!

If you've got aerosol nickel antiseize, spray it on both joints of the linkage and where the link goes into the turbine housing. From underneath the truck, you can push up on the linkage with a long screwdriver. Maybe someone can stand on the right front tire and push it back down. Work it back and forth. Do this with the ignition off. It may free up completely. I've saved a few turbos like this. Initial inspection suggested that the VNT controller had simply failed.

If you haven't done this in a while, clean the frame down to bare metal where the battery ground meets it, and the same thing with the ground wire from the left rear of the cab to the frame. Occasionally these get poor connections and can seriously affect the way the ecu talks to the VNT controller (they communicate via CAN).
 

coalminer

Veteran Expediter
Retired Expediter
So you think that it might not need replaced? I don't have the good anti sieze but I will order it and give it a try. So I take it that the rod should move up and down when the ignition is off? I can't really get it to move at all. So what is hanging up is actually is in the vanes? And not the vnt?

I will try the big screwdriver from under the truck, was just trying from the top, maybe it's all the way down.

Thanks again for all the info!!!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top