Axle weights

[layoutshooter]

OK, I have my "H" rated tires on now. I am still pretty close to max weight on my steers. That is, if I am figuring it right. Tires are rated for 6610. Do I multilply that by two to come up with my max weight? I have a 12,000lb axle. What can be done to lighten the front end or raise the ratings? Can you go to a 10" wheel/tire? Move the rear axles up? Move batteries/fuel tanks back? All of the above or punt? Layoutshooter

 

[arkjarhead]

What I used to do when I knew I was going to be running heavy on my steers I would run half tanks of fuel. Fuel weighs 8lbs a gallon. I don't know what size tanks you have, but that can help. Plus if you have like a heavy toolbox or side box you can move it back. You can position load further to the rear instead of right up front of the box as well.

 

[jaminjim]

The limiting thing is your lowest rated item, in this case it is your axle. The tires capacity is X2, but in this case the 12000 lb. axle is the lowest.

A solution would be to add a third axle. (drop axle)

 

[layoutshooter]

I have a lift axle, we are always legal when it is down. There have been times that we are over without it. I guess the only way to be sure is always run with the lift axle down. I guess this is another reason not to buy another Alumi-Junk truck. We live and learn. My next truck will be laid out a lot different to avoid this problem. Layoutshooter

 

[ATeam]

The good news is you have a way to be legal by using the lift axle. That is what it is for, after all. Lift axles take some getting used to and it takes a few loads and trips to the truck stop scales to get to know the truck.

The ideal situation would be if you found yourself with four skids weighing about 2,000 lbs each, a pallet jack and some time to spare. You could move the weight around in your truck, try different lift-axle settings, and run the truck over the scale a few times to learn how the freight affects your axle weights.

The alternative is to track your load weights and positions on the truck floor, and run the truck over the scale a few times. Jot notes on the scale receipts to compare. After a few trips you will have it figured out. This experimentation/education will cost you less in scale fees than one overweight ticket.

It is also helpful to mark inside the box the location of the axles. Outside the truck, run a tape measure from the rear to the center of the axle, lift axle and the mid point between the two. Then on the inside of the box, measure off the same distance and mark the axle location inside. Knowing your axle location helps you position the freight inside.

 

[greg334]

I have a lift axle, we are always legal when it is down. There have been times that we are over without it. I guess the only way to be sure is always run with the lift axle down. I guess this is another reason not to buy another Alumi-Junk truck. We live and learn. My next truck will be laid out a lot different to avoid this problem. Layoutshooter

I forget, what kind of truck do you have?

 

[layoutshooter]

I have a freightliner M2112, 96" Alumi-Bunk sleeper. My problem is I am close to or overweight when empty. When we got the fine for the overweight I was only carrying 200lbs and it was loaded almost at the back of the truck, behind the rear axles. I know where my axles are and load my freight with the weight to the rear of the box. It seems that the only way I can be legal is to either run with the lift alxe down 100% of the time or run on half full fuel tanks. I was looking for a real solution. Like maybe moving the rear axles up towards the the front of the truck a bit, or moving the fuel tanks and batteries back etc. Maybe change to 14,000lb axles with 12" wheels. I talked with one driver the other day that has the same problem. He runs with his lift axle down all the time. His truck is even heavier than mine is up front. Layoutshoter

 

[Broompilot]

Phils advice right on, and I followed his advice years ago and it helped a great deal. Also Doc Rushing really gives the best education on it of all. Remember being a kid, teeter taughter? Miss Spelled?

Draw the liine inside the van body above the axle thus keeping about 35% of the weight above that liine and 65% behind it on 4-6 pallets. If all weigh the same try load locks and double stacking if customer willing. Keep that load away from the nose. In time you will be able to judge it and become a pro, also this has helped me a great deal, judge the sidewalls of your tires, Scale and make a note how much flat spot is on them, you will know imm while being loaded and learn to judge it yourself. (I always know when I am close to 20K per axle or 12K steers, as anything above that the tires are bulging on the sidewalls) 19K no hump, 20K slight, anything over that and looks like I need more air, everytime I scale I am right so I make the adjustment right at the dock. PS when I am this close I ALWAYS begin looking for the Cat Scale.

Good luck.

 

[layoutshooter]

How do I fix it being overweight when empty? Layoutshooter

 

[Broompilot]

Thats a problem, a design defect. Your gona move items to the back, like fuel tanks, and tool boxes. You also have to much gear inside of the sleeper if that is a problem. While empty I seriously doubt anyone is ever gona get picky enough to bust you, even though it is possible.

I have never ever had a steer ticket, now watch I will get one this week but I can slide my trailer back as I do run heavy on my steers to keep my trailer gap small.

 

[Doggie Daddy]

Why don't you go back to Aluma-junk and ask them why they sold you an illegal truck,I would love to hear their explanation.DD.

 

[Broompilot]

After mowing the grass and thinking about your post, the cheapest way to your fix that I can think of, is either purchasing a side tool box or moving one if you have it now. Take items with weight and store them inside of there. Every 500 lbs or so you can transfere from the Steers should lighten them by X 2. Am I correct Forum Members or would it just be by the exact weight transfered? It may not be exact but it should be close remember Teeter Taughter.

Good Luck hope this helps.

 

[EagleRiverWI]

I have an Alumibunk M2 and my empty weight is 8800 on the steers. My last 12000 pound load was 1000 over on the rear because my E track load bars were 3 feet from the front. At least now I have a better idea about how to load my truck, but I am not going to take as many chances accepting heavy loads.

 

[EagleRiverWI]

Has anyone gotten a before and after weight before installing a tag axle. It would be interesting to find out how much extra weight goes on the steer, after the install, when the axle is up.

 

[layoutshooter]

I bought this truck used so I don't think Alumi-Junk will do anything for me. I am thinking about moving a side box as suggested. I would really like to move the fuel tanks or batteries but I think that would cost me a ton of money. I guess I could just buy full size tires for the lift axle and run it down all the time. Layoutshooter

 

[EagleRiverWI]

I don't think moving stuff back is going to help much unless it is moving it behind the rear axle to get leverage. You will move some weight but will it be enough to justify the cost. Moving 500 pounds back 2 or 3 feet, will at most, take less than 500 off the steer. I would use the tag axle, not having one can be a real pain.

 

[x06col]

Sounds like you have a pusher axle? Yes/no? If room allows, and you are determined to move something, you may choose to consider moving the lift axle behind the drive axle. that would add bout a ton to the rear of the truck and take a lot of weight off the steers when it is up. Depending on how much you actually haul heavy things, will determine IF this is viable. What is the wheelbase?

 

[layoutshooter]

It is a pusher axle. I do sometimes haul very heavy but not that often. I would be happy to give up a bit of hauling capabilty to solve this. If I could move the batteries to the very back of the truck, there are 6 of them at 70lbs apiece, it might help some. I am not sure about moving the fuel tanks. I will move my chains to the back as well. I learned this leason the hard way. I bet I don't make this mistake again. If I ever buy another truck I will spec it myself and NOT buy it from Alumi-Junk!!! I assumed that it would be legal, you all know what assume means. They got me this time. Layoutshooter

 

[x06col]

Waitaminit. Don't blame the truck seller, blame the buyer. I'm not defending Alumabunk, but i'v had contractors with screwed up trucks that we fixed. With a bit of common sense.
Zactly, what is your problem? Other than being heavy on the front?

 

[jaminjim]

Whats the wheelbase?