Axle weights

[layoutshooter]

The distance between the center of the front axle to the center of the drive axle is 324". There is 116" from the center of the drive axle to the back of the truck. I don't blame Alumi-Junk, I made bad assumptions and now I have to fix it. I won't deal with them again due to a ton of other things involved with this sale. Let's just say that I have a very bad taste after this venture. Live and learn. Maybe someone reading this thread will learn from my mistakes. I know it can be fixed. The trick is to find the way that is the most cost effective AND does not cause other problems. Again, as always, thanks to all in here that try to help me with this. Layoutshooter

 

[layoutshooter]

The only problem is that I am heavy on the front axles. Just trying to figure out how to solve it without spending a zilllion dollars, a half a zillion would be fine. Layoutshooter

 

[greg334]

I agree with moving the lift behind the drive, but also I would think moving the fuel tanks would be easier than moving the batter box.

The fuel tanks have three lines (and one wire) and extending the two fuel lines (and one wire) is cheaper than moving the battery box and buying cables (extending them by splicing them is a pain and if you don't do it right you could have electrical problems later).

I did see a truck recently with the tanks almost to the drive axles, it looked like a pain in the a** to fuel because you have to have a clear lane to fuel.

I ain't no expert on trucks, but I see shifting weight back may be the only solution.

 

[nobb4u]

Curious, What is your gross empty weight (with all your gear on board)? Also what kind of unit and what is your company required weight ability?

 

[layoutshooter]

GVW with gear and fuel is right at 28,000lbs. It is a "D" unit, TVAL. According to the sticker on the door the GVW is 61,000lbs. I have it titled at 48,000. The front axles came in at approximatly 12,900lbs. When we got the overweight fine they said we were at 13,740lbs. The max allowed on the tires was 12350lbs. I now have the "H" tires rated as 6610lbs per tire. That gives me a max of 13220lbs. I would like to lose about 1000lbs off of that axle. I need at least 600. I am going to re-weight it next time I am home and can shift some of the weight around. We were carrying 200lb load when we got the fine. It was strapped to the driver side wall of the box behind the drive axle. We had 4 load bars and 1 strap to secure it. I thought I had done it right. Something does not seem right with the weights. I need to learn a whole bunch more. Layoutshooter

 

[layoutshooter]

I think when I weight it I will get two weights, one with the lift axle up and one with the axle down. I want to see just how much dropping that axle takes off the front. Utah said is was fine that way but just passed us through, did not get a weight with it down. Layoutshooter

 

[greg334]

Is your reefer unit belly mounted or is it on the box?

 

[nobb4u]

My idea was to add weight on the rear kind of like a tractor weight to see if you could use the teeter totter method to move weight to rear. I know that with the reefer it is always a fun thing to try to get weight off the front end. Bet you have a nice light weight aluminum lift gate, if it was heavier it would help to move some weight off the front. If you could change your axle out to a 20,000# axle then you would be fine. Don't know the cost of such a move but might be cheaper than moving fuel tanks and tool boxes.
But then with the cost of fuel these days your objective should be to lessen your overall weight .

 

[layoutshooter]

Reefer is a belly mount, it is a typical Alumi-Bunk truck. Yes, the lift gate is aluminum. Don't know about changing out the axle. Would I still not need a tire rated for the weight? The "H" tires I have are only 6610. I would need 7000 or 7500 per tire. Does anyone make a tire like that for a 8.5" wheel? They make it for a 12" wheel. I guess the more I learn about this stuff the less I know. Layoutshooter

 

[ATeam]

This may or may not be helpful. On our truck, if we tail load 1,000 lbs of freight, it takes about 500 lbs off the front axle. If you look at the photo, you will see the drive axles are more forward than you see on some trucks.

You are already doing it. Keep paying attention to the scales and the weight you have on board to learn the truck.

 

[layoutshooter]

I see where you rears are, I was thinking about doing that with mine. That or just run with the lift axle down. I will have to do some more work on the scales when I get home. It is just too darn nose heavy. Layoutshooter

 

[layoutshooter]

Is there a formula on how far moving axles lightens the load? It would help to know how far they would need moved to take the weight off the steers. Layoutshooter

 

[greg334]

Somewhere there is load balancing software that may help you. I can not find the link to it, anyone?

 

[layoutshooter]

Thanks Greq, I will try to find it. Someone needs to write one of those "trukin for Dummies"
book. Want to take a crack at it Greq? I will be your first customer!!!! Layoutshooter

 

[SHARP327]

I don't recall it being mentioned what kind of drop axle you have, if you have a tag axle and apply more air pressure you'll increase the load on your steers, (DD can help you with advice on this type of drop axle because that's what he has)

On the other hand if you have a pusher axle...you can decrease the weight on your steers by applying more air pressure and you'll be able to place a lot more weight towards the front of the cargo compartment.

with a tag you'll need to locate the bulk of the weight towards the rear and there again if you apply too much air pressure or don't locate the load in the sweet spot you'll end up transfering weight to your steers.

It takes some practice...I get a real good feel on how much weight is on my steers just by how hard the truck steers while going down the road, while increasing or decreasing the air pressure as I go.

Hope this helps!

OOOPS! I failed to notice there were 3 pages on this subject!

Good Luck!