10w-30 for temps below 32? in diesel ford van.
- Thread starter pellgrn
- Start date
RE: 10w-30
pelle
15-40 or 10-30?
The thing to know about multi oil is the fact that the first number means cold temp and the second number means hot. So you have to think as if it was a stright oil, so with 15-40 it acts like 15W when cold and 40W when hot same with 10-30. The big thing is lighter oil is easer to start in cold temps. Just make sure no matter what weight you use make sure the oil is for diesel engines, don't use chep oil off the shelf just to get to a lighter grade.
Hope this helps Matt
pelle
15-40 or 10-30?
The thing to know about multi oil is the fact that the first number means cold temp and the second number means hot. So you have to think as if it was a stright oil, so with 15-40 it acts like 15W when cold and 40W when hot same with 10-30. The big thing is lighter oil is easer to start in cold temps. Just make sure no matter what weight you use make sure the oil is for diesel engines, don't use chep oil off the shelf just to get to a lighter grade.
Hope this helps Matt
RE: 10w-30
Hello
Just a little note for you. Have you ever looked into Amsoil it is the first in synthetics on the market and it is the best oil that I have ever used with no viscoscity breakdown at all. I have been driving since 85 and started using it in 90. I will never go back to petroleom based oils again. If your interested checkout my website www.lubedealer.com/k_&k_expeditedservices or you can go to the amsoil website at www.amsoil.com;-)
Hello
Just a little note for you. Have you ever looked into Amsoil it is the first in synthetics on the market and it is the best oil that I have ever used with no viscoscity breakdown at all. I have been driving since 85 and started using it in 90. I will never go back to petroleom based oils again. If your interested checkout my website www.lubedealer.com/k_&k_expeditedservices or you can go to the amsoil website at www.amsoil.com;-)
RE: 10w-30
The W stands for winter. The 10 will flow a bit easier than 15 in temps. below freezing. If you have an engine block heater for cold starts, you can stay with the common 15W40 that is easy to get. I agree to stick with a brand you have heard of. Leo's motorcycle, lawnmower, outboard and truck diesel oil probably isn't your best bet. I use Chevron Delo 400 15W40. Add a bit (5-10%) STP oil treatment to it. Do so and you will NEVER have an internal bearing failure. It's a good idea to allow any diesel to warm up for 5 to 10 minutes before taking off. Just watch what happens to the pressure gauge if you don't. That's how oil seals blow out my friends. Esp. when they are cold and a bit brittle.
I have in front of me now a BIG chunk of Detroit Diesel manuals. They include a few words on synthetic oil that have me laughing a little bacause they enforce what I have been saying for years. Synthetics are superior as far as viscosity stability goes, but they DO NOT extend oil change intervals. Period, end of synthethic story. Waste the extra $ if you want. Risk it and blow up your expensive engine and see if I care. Synthetic oil is expensive stuff for racing engines.
-Weave-
The W stands for winter. The 10 will flow a bit easier than 15 in temps. below freezing. If you have an engine block heater for cold starts, you can stay with the common 15W40 that is easy to get. I agree to stick with a brand you have heard of. Leo's motorcycle, lawnmower, outboard and truck diesel oil probably isn't your best bet. I use Chevron Delo 400 15W40. Add a bit (5-10%) STP oil treatment to it. Do so and you will NEVER have an internal bearing failure. It's a good idea to allow any diesel to warm up for 5 to 10 minutes before taking off. Just watch what happens to the pressure gauge if you don't. That's how oil seals blow out my friends. Esp. when they are cold and a bit brittle.
I have in front of me now a BIG chunk of Detroit Diesel manuals. They include a few words on synthetic oil that have me laughing a little bacause they enforce what I have been saying for years. Synthetics are superior as far as viscosity stability goes, but they DO NOT extend oil change intervals. Period, end of synthethic story. Waste the extra $ if you want. Risk it and blow up your expensive engine and see if I care. Synthetic oil is expensive stuff for racing engines.
-Weave-
G
guest
Guest
RE: 10w-30
Our International engine is a big brother to your van's and we only use Rotella 15-40. It starts no matter how cold and uses less than a gallon between changes at around 15,000 miles. Although all the other lubes are synthetic for longer life, I stay with Rotella in all our engines.
Our International engine is a big brother to your van's and we only use Rotella 15-40. It starts no matter how cold and uses less than a gallon between changes at around 15,000 miles. Although all the other lubes are synthetic for longer life, I stay with Rotella in all our engines.
RE: 10w-30
My father uses the Lucas oil stuff in his high mileage FL70 w/Cummins C8.3. It is a similar product to STP oil treatment. One thing it definitely does is quiets things down quite a bit. My old man's engine sounds like new with the Lucas treatment. The way it's doing that is simply by reducing friction. His engine runs 5 degrees cooler on average too. I have no solid proof, but I can just bet that reduced heat and friction will equal longer engine life. I got half a million miles out of my FL70/Cummins B5.9 using STP oil treatment and that little engine is only rated to last 350k. It still ran great when traded in.
-Weave-
My father uses the Lucas oil stuff in his high mileage FL70 w/Cummins C8.3. It is a similar product to STP oil treatment. One thing it definitely does is quiets things down quite a bit. My old man's engine sounds like new with the Lucas treatment. The way it's doing that is simply by reducing friction. His engine runs 5 degrees cooler on average too. I have no solid proof, but I can just bet that reduced heat and friction will equal longer engine life. I got half a million miles out of my FL70/Cummins B5.9 using STP oil treatment and that little engine is only rated to last 350k. It still ran great when traded in.
-Weave-
streetsweeper
Expert Expediter
RE: 10w-30
*I realize this is an old thread but worthy of making comment.*
First off, the 'W' in oil identification does not mean nor stand for *winter*. The 'W' refers to 'weight' or viscosity of the oil (ie 15w40 is the API or american petroluem institute rating).
If your operating in severe cold weather, a 5w30 oil works fine without using additives. Lower viscosity rating means easier flow at cold start.
15W40 is common among all fleets, commercial rental or otherwise and considered a practical choice too for year round use. Even in Ford's 7.3 diesel's.
Using additives is Ok in some opinions and not in others. So it is a 50/50 split. (Sorry gang, your getting a diesel mechainc opinion here)
With small application diesels ( 6.2,6.5,6.9,7.3's & DuraMax) faithfully change that oil EVERY 3000 miles. Ryder,Rollins & Penske do it period. If the big dawgs do it, doesnt it make sense for you?
Mid range & heavy duty diesel are different due to oil pan & filter capacities (7-8 qts vs 20-25 qts)
You may torture me here, lol
*I realize this is an old thread but worthy of making comment.*
First off, the 'W' in oil identification does not mean nor stand for *winter*. The 'W' refers to 'weight' or viscosity of the oil (ie 15w40 is the API or american petroluem institute rating).
If your operating in severe cold weather, a 5w30 oil works fine without using additives. Lower viscosity rating means easier flow at cold start.
15W40 is common among all fleets, commercial rental or otherwise and considered a practical choice too for year round use. Even in Ford's 7.3 diesel's.
Using additives is Ok in some opinions and not in others. So it is a 50/50 split. (Sorry gang, your getting a diesel mechainc opinion here)
With small application diesels ( 6.2,6.5,6.9,7.3's & DuraMax) faithfully change that oil EVERY 3000 miles. Ryder,Rollins & Penske do it period. If the big dawgs do it, doesnt it make sense for you?
Mid range & heavy duty diesel are different due to oil pan & filter capacities (7-8 qts vs 20-25 qts)
You may torture me here, lol
RE: 10w-30
that post has been around awhile,and thanks for the feedback.i use 15-40,year around and i always knew what the w stood for,what i was trying to find out was who made 10-30 for diesels? rotella does they have it at alot of pilots but its expensive,i will use it next winter if i can find it for under 2 bucks a quart.
that post has been around awhile,and thanks for the feedback.i use 15-40,year around and i always knew what the w stood for,what i was trying to find out was who made 10-30 for diesels? rotella does they have it at alot of pilots but its expensive,i will use it next winter if i can find it for under 2 bucks a quart.
Refer Hauler
Expert Expediter
RE: 10w-30
Most SAM's clubs have Rotela 15W40 in a six (6) gallon case for 33 or 34 bucks case
Most SAM's clubs have Rotela 15W40 in a six (6) gallon case for 33 or 34 bucks case
RE: 10w-30
Tony,
We ran one of our B units with Mobile 1 for the entire life of the truck. We had regular oil analysis on it and in every field the report came back excellent. We had over 500,000 miles when we sold the truck.
We changed the oil every 10K - 12K. It was very expensive to do it this way, but paid off in the end.
Lawrence,
Expediters Online.com
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Everybody is someone else's weirdo.
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Tony,
We ran one of our B units with Mobile 1 for the entire life of the truck. We had regular oil analysis on it and in every field the report came back excellent. We had over 500,000 miles when we sold the truck.
We changed the oil every 10K - 12K. It was very expensive to do it this way, but paid off in the end.
Lawrence,
Expediters Online.com
-----------------------------------------
Everybody is someone else's weirdo.
http://www.expeditersonline.com/weekly/Bean.gif
-----------------------------------------
RE: 10w-30
Wild Bill & Weave,
Here's my two cents worth. Lucas oil additives are worth every dollar you pay for it. I first started using it when i was with Fed-Ex Ground (Roadway Package Systems). Used it in a package van with over a 165,000 miles on it. It raised oil pressure up 5lbs. & quitened everything up like Weave said. Sold truck with 320.000 on the engine that came in it.
I now have a FL-70 a 3126 Cat in it. It has a 30 qt. oil pan. I add one gallon Of Lucas at every change. It increases oil pressure 5-8 p.s.i.;it acutally slows leaks (because of viscosity); I can stretch oil changes by up to 20%-25%.What I am trying to say I guess is it makes me feel more secure knowing it's in there & it will you too.
Also I use an oil called Mystik 15-50 made by Citgo. You can by this at Truck Pro. They have it in 1 gallon & 2 gallon jugs. With Lucas & Mystik every sample I've had has come back with excellent reports.
Thanks Jimmy
Wild Bill & Weave,
Here's my two cents worth. Lucas oil additives are worth every dollar you pay for it. I first started using it when i was with Fed-Ex Ground (Roadway Package Systems). Used it in a package van with over a 165,000 miles on it. It raised oil pressure up 5lbs. & quitened everything up like Weave said. Sold truck with 320.000 on the engine that came in it.
I now have a FL-70 a 3126 Cat in it. It has a 30 qt. oil pan. I add one gallon Of Lucas at every change. It increases oil pressure 5-8 p.s.i.;it acutally slows leaks (because of viscosity); I can stretch oil changes by up to 20%-25%.What I am trying to say I guess is it makes me feel more secure knowing it's in there & it will you too.
Also I use an oil called Mystik 15-50 made by Citgo. You can by this at Truck Pro. They have it in 1 gallon & 2 gallon jugs. With Lucas & Mystik every sample I've had has come back with excellent reports.
Thanks Jimmy
RE: 10w-30
Tony,
I saw you have a van with a 350 in it. I assume it's a gas engine?
Do you use a standard filter on it? Have you tried a "Long" filter?
I can't remember part # but it was a Wix Filter I used to use on an old P-30 I once owned. It adds 1 qt. to capacity of engine & twice as much filtering for about $3.00 more over the price of a standard filter. My feelings on it are the more oil & filter the less you pull the pan. Thanks
Jimmy
Tony,
I saw you have a van with a 350 in it. I assume it's a gas engine?
Do you use a standard filter on it? Have you tried a "Long" filter?
I can't remember part # but it was a Wix Filter I used to use on an old P-30 I once owned. It adds 1 qt. to capacity of engine & twice as much filtering for about $3.00 more over the price of a standard filter. My feelings on it are the more oil & filter the less you pull the pan. Thanks
Jimmy
RE: 10w-30
The W does (believe it or not) stand for winter with multi-viscosity oils. A 10w30 acts as a 10 oil when cold, and a 30 when warm. It's an old term, but that's how it came about. A straight 30 oil (for summer lawnmower use) will be SAE 30, not 30W. This was strict military instruction for me, so if it's wrong blame the military, but I do believe it is correct.
-Weave-
The W does (believe it or not) stand for winter with multi-viscosity oils. A 10w30 acts as a 10 oil when cold, and a 30 when warm. It's an old term, but that's how it came about. A straight 30 oil (for summer lawnmower use) will be SAE 30, not 30W. This was strict military instruction for me, so if it's wrong blame the military, but I do believe it is correct.
-Weave-
RE: 10w-30
Just in case anyone else was curious about what the "W" in oil refers to. I just researched it on a site called everything you ever wanted to know about motor oil. And what they said was this: The "W" means that the oil meets specifications for viscostity at 0 degrees F and therefore suitable for winter use.
Just in case anyone else was curious about what the "W" in oil refers to. I just researched it on a site called everything you ever wanted to know about motor oil. And what they said was this: The "W" means that the oil meets specifications for viscostity at 0 degrees F and therefore suitable for winter use.