bluefish55
Active Expediter
What can I use to heat the inside of a cargo van that is inexpensive and SAFE while shut down ? I would be driving for an owner of the cargo van.
What Can I Use To Heat Inside Of Cargo Van ?
- Thread starter bluefish55
- Start date
chefdennis
Veteran Expediter
ChrisGa23
Expert Expediter
regardless of what you use.....First thing you need to buy is a smoke/carbon monoxide detector. Some people use a generator with a plug in heater. Some propane heaters and leave the windows cracked to allow fresh air in.
I bought -20 degree sleeping bag and it kept me some what warm but up in Illinois/Michigan/Etc I had no choice but to idle which I highly dont recommend unless you have to if you expect to have much money in your pocket at the end of the day. Lots of options. Maybe ask owner to invest in a Espar unit or generator for the van to keep you warm.
I bought -20 degree sleeping bag and it kept me some what warm but up in Illinois/Michigan/Etc I had no choice but to idle which I highly dont recommend unless you have to if you expect to have much money in your pocket at the end of the day. Lots of options. Maybe ask owner to invest in a Espar unit or generator for the van to keep you warm.
bluefish55
Active Expediter
Thank you for the advice. I think the carbon monoxide detector when using propane would be a good thing to have. That way, I don't wake up dead.
chefdennis
Veteran Expediter
I have been using mine for the 4th winter now..it cost about $150 and i don't use the 1 lb bottles, i have 2 16 lb tanks in the truck..depending on how high you run it and how long, the run time will very...I have run it continously on the medium setting for 3 days and it didn't run out, and it was nice and toasty in the van in 18* degree outside temps...on high, it will run you out of the van...
I have no idea of the btu/watts conversion, as it makes no difference to me whatsoever..its cheap to run and the cost is low...
Yes using propane is fine, but you have to be safe..while the unit has a "low oxygen shutoff built into it, i use a carbon monoxide detector, open both ft windows about 1.5 inches and open the roof vent...even with those openings and the wind blowing outside, the van is still as warm as i want it to be in any situation...now that being said, my van is insulated as good as it needs to be to contain the heat....
I have no idea of the btu/watts conversion, as it makes no difference to me whatsoever..its cheap to run and the cost is low...
Yes using propane is fine, but you have to be safe..while the unit has a "low oxygen shutoff built into it, i use a carbon monoxide detector, open both ft windows about 1.5 inches and open the roof vent...even with those openings and the wind blowing outside, the van is still as warm as i want it to be in any situation...now that being said, my van is insulated as good as it needs to be to contain the heat....
chefdennis
Veteran Expediter
I have and i know several others have seen that Old guy and his wife out here in a CV with a small electric Fireplace mounted on one of the side doors....
ebsprintin
Veteran Expediter
Try doing a search for--sprinter+heater or sprinter+espar. Even if you aren't interested in sprinters or espars there are plenty of comments on alternatives.
eb
eb
guido4475
Not a Member
I put 1" foam insulation between the ceiling aluminum studs, then covered it all with that foil bubble wrap vapor barrier stuff, then covered it with 1/8" luan.The espar has been running for the last 3 days, 80 degrees inside, and I still have snow on top of the van roof, so I'd say insulation really helps.Doing the side walls now, little by little.
Jack_Berry
Moderator Emeritus
There is a thread on heating vans that Jack set up last year.
For us as owners the Espar heater was a wonderful decision. Gracie
For us as owners the Espar heater was a wonderful decision. Gracie
Some people can't... they don't have they resources, or the credit in this economy.... and they need a job. So they get in anyway they can.
Dale
chefdennis
Veteran Expediter
.........
greg334
Veteran Expediter
Well ....
Anywho, if the "van" is insulated right, the smaller buddy heater on a low setting will use up a one pound net bottle in 5 hours.
My sleeper is worst than any van, it is aluminum and as anyone knows aluminum conducts heat/cold pretty well - better than any steal.
I have tried different combinations to find out what works best and in the process of putting it back together with newer materials because I started to add more to the electrical system and needed to get into the walls. Beside I also wanted to redo the panels and get rid of that cheap cheap panel backing the sleeper people used.
So it is reflex heat barrier against the wall, with polyiso insulated board (foil side facing inside the sleeper) on top of that and coroplast (4mm) on top of that to provide the air space needed for another layer of reflex heat barrier. The frame work is sprayed with the polyiso insulation and on top of that is cheap ceramic spray they use on headers to seal it (that made some what of a difference I could see the frame in the infrared pictures) I don't use my little espar much, maybe 1 hour a night total with this setup, most of the heat lose is through my cab which I am trying to figure out what to do with that without taking the cab all apart.
Hope that helps someone.
Anywho, if the "van" is insulated right, the smaller buddy heater on a low setting will use up a one pound net bottle in 5 hours.
My sleeper is worst than any van, it is aluminum and as anyone knows aluminum conducts heat/cold pretty well - better than any steal.
I have tried different combinations to find out what works best and in the process of putting it back together with newer materials because I started to add more to the electrical system and needed to get into the walls. Beside I also wanted to redo the panels and get rid of that cheap cheap panel backing the sleeper people used.
So it is reflex heat barrier against the wall, with polyiso insulated board (foil side facing inside the sleeper) on top of that and coroplast (4mm) on top of that to provide the air space needed for another layer of reflex heat barrier. The frame work is sprayed with the polyiso insulation and on top of that is cheap ceramic spray they use on headers to seal it (that made some what of a difference I could see the frame in the infrared pictures) I don't use my little espar much, maybe 1 hour a night total with this setup, most of the heat lose is through my cab which I am trying to figure out what to do with that without taking the cab all apart.
Hope that helps someone.
cableguymn
Seasoned Expediter
Most of your heat loss in the cab is the roof and glass. insulate the roof and use a thick privacy curtain on Velcro all the way around. Not much you can do with the doors since the windows have to go up and down. maybe something between the door card and door frame if there is room. If you put it inside the door on the door skin make sure it's water proof as water will get in at the base of the window. (also keep in mind that that water has to go somewhere)
MCGohio1985
Active Expediter
You can get a mariane battery at wal-mart for around $100. as for an isolator at any car audio shop for around $80 or I talk to a driver that got one installed on his sprinter at the freightliner dealer he said less then a hundred buck I priced it and to use 2 batterys and all the wire and isolator was around $450 plus the inverter depends on what one you get make sure you use 4 gage wire for your battery leads.
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