Weight Distribution

ABEJR2004 · May 9, 2007

Here's a good I am seeking a little help on.

I am running a Class 8 Freightliner w/tamdens, And I am not consistent on placing my loads in the best spot in the Cargo box to help maintain a good MPG. I have a habit of loading the front about 4 feet from from the front wall and heavier as I come back towards the tandems. It sometimes feels like I am now dragging the load.( Not Overweight)

What do you do as a general rule for weight distribution to help maintain a good ride and not drag you MPG down too much.

AbeJr
TranStewart #6680
Stand Tall & Be Proud

Moot · May 9, 2007

I'm no expert on physics but if you have an enclosed box I can't see how freight placement can have an effect on your m.p.g. Ride yes, fuel mileage no. I would think that you would want more weight toward the tandems and less on the steer. This should give you a better ride, more traction on snow and ice and less chance of going over weight on the steers. How much weight do you carry on average?

arkjarhead · May 9, 2007

let's say you are hauling 4 skids. why not try it like this. you can run a single in the front with doubles the rest of the way back. just a thought.

TeamCaffee · May 9, 2007

I don't think it will make any difference either on placement of freight. We have to really watch where we place our freight due to over weight on drive axle. We place everything right behind our load bars approximately two feet back from the front of the box. Heaviest to the front also helps with the ride. Each truck and sleeper is build different though and where the weight has to be placed.

ABEJR2004 · May 10, 2007

My weight avg is around 5-7k, with the occasional 10k.

I understand the concept of a better ride with the weight sitting back a bit and staying off the steers, but if you do bring in physic's
would the weight placement matter in regaurds to having momentium push you instead of havinng it all sitting on your tandems and you pulling it?

AbeJr
TranStewart #6680
Stand Tall & Be Proud

LDB · May 10, 2007

I'm no scientist but if you have a box sitting on the floor and the floor is perfectly flat and level for you to push that box takes a set amount of energy regardless of which side you push from, presuming the friction coefficient is identical for each direction. I don't believe it is going to make any difference whether the weight is entirely in front of the drive axle or behind it as far as fuel economy or any other factor. The only change will be in the ride of the truck.

Since most front axles are loaded to around 90% capacity by the drivetrain, cab, sleeper etc. I believe it is best to load the weight centered over the drive axle as much as possible. That seems to give the best balance and ride. That also keeps your center point between the axles so neither end is excessively heavy and prone to slide out from under the rest of the truck.

My .02 that so far has worked for me.

Leo Bricker, 73's K5LDB, OOIDA Life Member 677319
Owner, Panther trucks 5508, 5509, 5641
Highway Watch Participant, Truckerbuddy
EO Forum Moderator
----------
Support the entire Constitution, not just the parts you like.

buddy · Dec 31, 2009

ok I need some help here. We drive a D with a GVW of 33,000 lbs and w/ a single axile. I can haul up to 13,000

I have been told to put all heavy stuff behind the axile. As which we did with a single item of 6,500.

Need some lessons on weight distribution, any input here?
Thanks

Dakota · Dec 31, 2009

I don't think MPG would be affected by load placement. If I have skids that aren't tall and am not worried about them tipping I place the skids down the center of the floor(If they weigh over 2000 total, anything less does not affect ride at all). I corner slowly and never have had a problem with the skids shifting while driving. I drive a 26' which will hold 12 skids max weight 10K pounds, anything over 5 skids I place them side by side

Moot · Dec 31, 2009

buddy said:
Need some lessons on weight distribution, any input here?
Thanks

Will you accept input from a cargo van driver?

Times up, here goes. First get an empty weight splitting the steer axle and the drive axle. I am assuming you have a standard 12,000# rated steer axle and the federal max allowed on a dual wheel single axle is 20,000#. Check the vehicle manufacturers specs for your exact axle rating.

On a single axle straight truck with a large sleeper and/or large engine you are probably close to 12,000 on the steers. If so you will want the majority of the load weight over the drive axle.

buddy said:
I can haul up to 13,000

That is not necessarily true. You could load 13 grand or less and be over on an axle. Especially the steer axle.

Every truck and every load is different. Experiment with weight placement and then get a split weight at a certified scale. This practice will cost you a few bucks initially, but once you get it figured out you should be able to load most freight from experience. When in doubt, go to a scale and weigh.

One more thing: Ban The Van!

nightcreacher · Dec 31, 2009

only thing going to effect your fuel mileage,is the weight and speed you drive.Placement of the load will have no effect on fuel mileage,unless your in a straight truck with a flat bed,then the wind will change your fuel mieage

tazgunney · Dec 31, 2009

I have tried it all in the last 30 plus years and what I have found is to keep your RPM in that sweet spot when actually pulling. Lugging or turning top RPM eats the most fuel. Weight is weight and a balanced load is a safe load. With that said try to get you weight as equal as possible. Tandam drives and tandam trailer of coarse. Have a HAPPY NEW YEAR

Humble2drive · Dec 31, 2009

buddy said:
ok I need some help here. We drive a D with a GVW of 33,000 lbs and w/ a single axile. I can haul up to 13,000

I have been told to put all heavy stuff behind the axile. As which we did with a single item of 6,500.

Need some lessons on weight distribution, any input here?
Thanks

I will expand a bit on Moot's excellent advice.

In that KW you will want to open the drivers door and get the vehicles weight ratings from the stickers located in the door frame.
They should read:
GVW 33,000 This figure is derived by adding the total weight rating of the two axles which should be:
Front axle: 12000
Rear axle: 21000

You should have an empty weight ticket in your permit book; however, this is of limited value for real world purposes.

What you need is a weight ticket with the two drivers on board, full fuel tanks and all of your belongings and equipment.

This will be your starting point and you will probably find:

A) You cannot legally carry 13000# of cargo so you will need to adjust that figure simply by subtracting the weight obtained above from 33000#.

B) Your steer axle will be at or very near 12000# without any cargo.

With the above information, it would be a good idea to spend some money on weight tickets and determine for yourself how the weight needs to be distributed on the next few loads.

In the end, you will be much more comfortable knowing the real actual weight you can carry rather than trying to explain to the DOT that you were told that you could carry 13000#.

Just my penny in the pond. Good luck!

porkchop1981 · Dec 31, 2009

Guys,

I do believe he said tandems, so make that gross most likely a 52,000 GVW. If this is the case, you most likely would never go over........all that it really sounds like is the comfort of the ride. like everyone else said, play around with the loads and see what fits for you. As far as the mpg goes.......placement of the load won't effect that, just ride=ability

CHop

Tennesseahawk · Dec 31, 2009

To answer Abe's question concerning placement with tandems, it has a lot to do with trial and error. But here's a few things I do myself...

-If a couple skids under 6000, I load them on the rear end.

-If more than 6000, and two skids, I load them over the rear axle.

-If more than two skids, and less than 10,000, I put them wherever I find it most convenient and safe.

-If 10,000 or more, I spread them over the length of the box (but 4 feet back from the front wall).

jaminjim · Jan 1, 2010

Are you asking about getting better fuel mileage, do you have a ten wheeler, or are you asking about where to place freight for improved ride, or to stay legal on both axels? Thats the problem with using an old post, But it shows that you looked back in the Archives trying to get your answer, thank-you.

I'm guessing that you are asking so that you have the load placed so as to be legal and safe. You got most if not all of the answers.

To take it a step further I would do the empty weight ticket also when half full of fuel. Just experiment with placing loads in different positions in the box and then weigh the truck. This will give you a idea for future reference. When possible I would ask that they throw the skid on the scale while I watched, and then I could start making a "load book" on real weights. (don't ask when they are real busy, or when their scale is some place out of the way)

As far as placing skids straight down the middle, personally I would only do this supper trucker feat

when absolutely necessary (to keep the weight correct on the axels) unless the load is braced/blocked/strapped so that it cannot move sideways.

Oh Moot I agree, ban da van

bluejaybee · Jan 1, 2010

There are a few states that you can not legally gross 33000 even though truck is rated for it. In the states that have 12000 max on steer axle and 20000 on drive, you will only be able to gross 32000. I can and do often carry 13000 on my truck. If I vary my fuel, I can go up to 13700. I have to load nose of truck with the heaviest skids. I just looked back at some weigh tickets and I have never gone over 13080 on my steer when loaded with 13200. My truck empty has a steer axle weight of 9070. My empty weight with me and full of fuel is 19700. As mentioned, every load presents a different scenario and you have to get a feel through trial and error on how to load and be legal. Anything under 9000, I just put it however I want and will be pretty sure of being legal. Anything over that, I have to plan on heaviest being on nose. I have a Peterbilt with 61 inch sleeper and a 24 foot box. I carry 125 gallons of fuel when full. Plus, I have a rooftop AC and 400 pound generator slung under one side. Only time I ever got ticketed for over weight was when I had 12 skids (max load) that all weighed the same. I went 1380 over on my drive and I could not rearrange. Tennessee got me and it cost me $360. I was 32980 gross. CAT Scales are a blessing and can bring you a piece of mind, but, check your road atlas for each states max on steer axle weight. Plus, some states don't allow but 18000 max on drives, so be careful and learn what works and doesn't work for your truck. It's all about experience.

smokn72ss · Jan 1, 2010

if I have less than a truck load .... 26' box truck ... 12 places .. I run singles back for two skids or three then double out ... with the long wheelbase of these trucks my company has it really helps ride and cornering. the closest I had to being over weight on steer was with a 17,000 lb load on a tag axle truck loaded too much in the front (double stacked) I with full tank I had 200lbs left of capacity .... cornered badd too ..
WHEN i RAN A T-300 BIG TANKS 3126 CAT 84" SLEEPER 24'box I could legally scale 14.500lb. Thats with me full of fuel and equipment/food/clothes ect .... I would load that the same way ... if only a couple skids straight down the middle strapped every two skids. never had a freight shift or anything. always plenty of straps on the load ... I never noticed any fuel savings loss of milage ff rom the way I loaded just ride quality and cornering