EASYTRADER
Expert Expediter
How many miles is typical for a class 7 diesal water pump.
I have 480k
I have 480k
Water Pump Life
- Thread starter EASYTRADER
- Start date
Doggie Daddy
Veteran Expediter
Ours only went to 280k before it went bad. 
bluejaybee
Veteran Expediter
Replaced my at 298K. Not sure if it was original or not. Cat 3126.
EASYTRADER
Expert Expediter
My engine has been running heating up quicker than normal as of late. Normally my HINO has ice in it's veins, but around 380k I started having to drop gears in the hills to keep the heat off the engine.
I'm fairly sure its not the fan clutch, as the last time it heated up, I did the rolled up newspaper test, and it passed. (IE, when the engine is hotter than normal, insert rolled up paper magazine or sprts section into fan, if the speed decreases, your clutch is shot. If the speed stays the same, and the fan blade rips the paper out of your hand and pulls your arm into the fan, removing skin, your clutch in fine)
I have also replaced the radiator due to a leak recently and it is still heating up on pulls.
So I'm guessing maybe the water pump impeller may be worn.
Is there a way to test pump out put without removing the pump from the engine?
I'm fairly sure its not the fan clutch, as the last time it heated up, I did the rolled up newspaper test, and it passed. (IE, when the engine is hotter than normal, insert rolled up paper magazine or sprts section into fan, if the speed decreases, your clutch is shot. If the speed stays the same, and the fan blade rips the paper out of your hand and pulls your arm into the fan, removing skin, your clutch in fine)
I have also replaced the radiator due to a leak recently and it is still heating up on pulls.
So I'm guessing maybe the water pump impeller may be worn.
Is there a way to test pump out put without removing the pump from the engine?
EASYTRADER
Expert Expediter
cac is new and condenser is not.
The hino has a huge gap between the cac and radiator, so the would be tons of airflow even if cac and condenser were clugged with bugs. I have not replaced the thermostat, I did pull it out to look at it though, lol it looked fine
Unfortunately I dint have any boiling water to make sure it is opening right, and I couldn't leave it out because it has a built in gasket so it has to be in place to keep coolant from flying out.
It is such a pain living in ca and being an expeditor, especially when you need to engine diagnosis, I suppose i'll just replace both the pump and thermostat, as that it would be cheaper to do both, now than pick the wrong one and have to stop again for a couple of days
The hino has a huge gap between the cac and radiator, so the would be tons of airflow even if cac and condenser were clugged with bugs. I have not replaced the thermostat, I did pull it out to look at it though, lol it looked fine
Unfortunately I dint have any boiling water to make sure it is opening right, and I couldn't leave it out because it has a built in gasket so it has to be in place to keep coolant from flying out.
It is such a pain living in ca and being an expeditor, especially when you need to engine diagnosis, I suppose i'll just replace both the pump and thermostat, as that it would be cheaper to do both, now than pick the wrong one and have to stop again for a couple of days
EASYTRADER
Expert Expediter
Well,
I have replaced the water pump, the thermostat, and have a radiator with less than 30k on it.
And I'm still running hot and boiling out on hills. This is very unusual, used to be the truck was totally cold blooded. I could pull the grapevine in summer with a full load without heating up.
Now I have to drive the grapevine in low gear.
Could this be a faulty EGR valve? not closing when it should be.
or is this an injector issue?
BTW, the hino mechanics have been useless for this problem.
I have replaced the water pump, the thermostat, and have a radiator with less than 30k on it.
And I'm still running hot and boiling out on hills. This is very unusual, used to be the truck was totally cold blooded. I could pull the grapevine in summer with a full load without heating up.
Now I have to drive the grapevine in low gear.
Could this be a faulty EGR valve? not closing when it should be.
or is this an injector issue?
BTW, the hino mechanics have been useless for this problem.
I dont know about the rest of ya but the Bull FLD 120 Tractor Trailer with Detroit 60 470
water pump lasted over one million Miles. before It was
replaced in Reno NV TA. It let loose after I delivered
just south of Reno.
stamp11127
Seasoned Expediter
How does it behave when it is under a light load? From some of the symptoms you've given it reminds me of the Ford 6.0L PSD head gasket issues under load. Are you loosing coolant?
greg334
Veteran Expediter
NO not really, it seems to take out older injection pumps because of a lack of lubrication, sometimes it is just seals other times it is the pumps in the IP.
Towin2Long
Seasoned Expediter
My 07 Int 4300 466 went a whole whopping 55K miles ...
EASYTRADER
Expert Expediter
Ur right it may be the new fuel.
I just drained and replaced my coolant with EVANS NPG+, according to my ecu the highest engine temp has been 225, which i think is bullcrap, because i have boiled over a few times.
anyway, the EVans coolant should solve the boilover problem as it has no water and doesn't boil till 356 degrees.
I wish I had a real temp gauge instead of the useless bullcrap idiot gauge my truck comes with.
I just drained and replaced my coolant with EVANS NPG+, according to my ecu the highest engine temp has been 225, which i think is bullcrap, because i have boiled over a few times.
anyway, the EVans coolant should solve the boilover problem as it has no water and doesn't boil till 356 degrees.
I wish I had a real temp gauge instead of the useless bullcrap idiot gauge my truck comes with.
EASYTRADER
Expert Expediter
The more I think about it, I started having these over temp issues when the new fuel was everywhere.
Its probably just that.
LOL
at least I have a new water pump (EVen though I didn't need it)
Its probably just that.
LOL
at least I have a new water pump (EVen though I didn't need it)
Have a 97 Diesel pusher 3126 275hp,question what bearings should I replace right now to avoid breakdowns? Has 120K I was thinking about the fan belt idler bearings,Belt,rebuilt the Alt, Starter and is there a seperate bearing for the Engine Fan that is greasable? If so I'll bet it has never been greased. I just want to get the thing up in the best shape possiable to avoid on the road problems. Any suggestions on the Allison 6 speed auto as far as service or adjustments? This thing runs great and I am getting 11.5mpg pulling a tow dolly&Car...my the speedometer in 2 miles per hour slow.
I also bet the valves have never been ran either. Thanks guys for any advice or suggestions.
I also bet the valves have never been ran either. Thanks guys for any advice or suggestions.
Hoe hum I realy miss The Bull ole FLD 120 with that 470 Detroit.
Never left me on the side of the ROAD.
I Trust that truck over those newer Classics or Coranados
the 515 Detroit has to many Problems. EGR, Injectors, ect.
They seem to make somthing so high tec that its so easy to plug up the plumbiing so to speak.
Yup the FLD 120 was one heck of a Tractor. Had a realy nice ride.
I admit had its quirks but after the king pins were replaced it was a smooth ride better than a KW. In my Opnion.
Course you know that KW suspension are for Heavy Haul and will give a bumpy ride till they got a some weight on them Drives.
Keep your radiator clean and bugs outa it and the cooler the Truck runs the longer life a special lubercant put in the radiator with the coolent helps as well as keep the mic at 1200 or better.
But what does a Midwest Farm Boy know.
We just play in the fields with the farm tractors right.
Never left me on the side of the ROAD.
I Trust that truck over those newer Classics or Coranados
the 515 Detroit has to many Problems. EGR, Injectors, ect.
They seem to make somthing so high tec that its so easy to plug up the plumbiing so to speak.
Yup the FLD 120 was one heck of a Tractor. Had a realy nice ride.
I admit had its quirks but after the king pins were replaced it was a smooth ride better than a KW. In my Opnion.
Course you know that KW suspension are for Heavy Haul and will give a bumpy ride till they got a some weight on them Drives.
Keep your radiator clean and bugs outa it and the cooler the Truck runs the longer life a special lubercant put in the radiator with the coolent helps as well as keep the mic at 1200 or better.
But what does a Midwest Farm Boy know.
We just play in the fields with the farm tractors right.
The real problem with the 6.0 was the head bolts . There are good aftermarket bolts that will cure the problem . "Head gasket failure became a common cause of repair. "Especially on the 6.0L, there was a design flaw-not enough head bolts. The head bolts pass through an aluminum carrier and cast-iron head, and you just don't get the clamping force," Dugas noted. This can be addressed by replacing the torque-to-limit head bolts with head studs that offer better clamping power."
Banks Power | FORD POWER STROKE 6.0L Part 1: What Fails and Why
Ford could have avoided a lot of lemon law buybacks if they had turned to Banks for help but God forbid a dealership using anything but OEM parts .