Trickin' The Sprinter

[RLENT]

After running and carrying cargo for a little over a month some of the Sprinter's shortcomings have become apparent.

Possibly the worst thing I have had to deal with over the last couple of weeks is getting pushed from other vehicles and and blown around pretty badly from the wind. This doesn't happen only with 18 wheelers - but cars and vans as well. Lots of body roll ..... at times it has felt to me like the Sprinter is going to actually going to roll over. Given the high roof it sorta seems like I'm driving a big sail at times.

I have found that the yellow caution signs listing the maximum speeds for turns on ramps and curves such are my friends - I always slow to at least the speed listed if not slower - particularly when loaded.

In other instances it's just the fact of getting pushed over a couple of feet from a gust of wind - this makes for extremely tiring driving due to amount of control one has to constantly exert to keep the vehicle from being pushed into another lane.

One thing that has been identified as a cause (on the Yahoo Sprinter Van Group) is that the stock rear anti-sway bar is inadequate. Roadmaster (http://www.roadmasterinc.com/index.html) makes an upgraded 1 1/8" chrome moly 4140 rear sway bar for 2500 Sprinters (and a 1 3/8" bar for the 3500 apparently as well) John Bendit at The Sprinter Store/Upscale Auto in Oregon also sells a siimilar product (maybe the same thing) - the cost at either place was around $350. I ended up purchasing one from Camping World, a chain of RV dealers, who had a location nearby - primarily because they had a deal going for 6 months same as cash for any purchases over $399.

I also picked up a MaxxAir powered roof vent at the same time since it's been getting warmer lately and because I knew that even though the insulation would help to keep it from getting like an oven this summer it would still be nice to suck the warm air out and cool it off in a hurry.

 

[RLENT]

Installation of the upgraded sway bar looked to be fairly simple - a total of six steps - just unbolt the old one and install the new one. I'd estimate it took me 2 hours or less and a good part of that was repeatedly walking back up to the shed from the house to get the correct size socket or wrench that I had failed to get the last time I went up.

The bar comes with polyurethane bushings rather than rubber (supposed to hold up longer) which need to be greased. The supplied blue grease was pretty odd - very, very sticky and would pull out in a long string when I attempted to scoop some out of the can with my finger - it was a bit messy. One thing I did run into is that routing of the emergency brakes cables and brake sensor wires on either side of the vehicle didn't seem to fit very well in their original locations - so I moved the brackets that hold them up to the top bolt on the sway bar bushing bracket mounts and kept the cables and wires entirely above the sway bar (rather than looping them under it) The instructions didn't really get into this - but interestingly the photo of the installed sway bar on the front page of the instruction sheet showed the cables and wires routed like that.

Attached is a image showing the old stock sway bar and the new Roadmaster unit.

 

[RLENT]

A couple of close ups showing the difference in thickness:

 

[RLENT]

I've only put on maybe a 100 or so miles on it thus far and there hasn't been a ton of wind since .. but I have noticed that the body roll and the buffeting from other vehicles has been reduced significantly and it seems to take much less steering correction to keep the vehicle tracking straight. Also it seems to "stick" alot better in the corners.

Stay tuned for Phase II.

 

[RLENT]

Today I had a chance to drive the Sprinter under windy conditions. Weatherman was calling for thunderstorms and winds are currently about 20 mph with higher gusts, high winds possible.

I took the Sprinter into the dealer - when the Rack & Pinion was replaced back in December they had failed to get the steering wheel centered properly - so they were going to correct that and set the toe-in. When I picked it up the service writer said the toe-in was out quite a bit (it wasn't pulling though)

At any rate I got a chance to drive it in the wind and the difference is like night and day - before when getting blown or hit with a gust you had to correct with the steering wheel ...... now it just tracks straight and true for the most part.

 

[vipra]

Thanks for all the info, that's great news. I've been wondering if anything can be done about the rocking, because it's really bad in my Sprinter, especially when going one wheel at a time over a bump, railroad track, driveway entrance, etc. I'll probably have Camping World install a sway bar since I'm pretty incompetent at repairs.

 

[RLENT]

Phil,

You're quite welcome. The Roadmaster part number for the 2500 (04 - 06) is 1207-117.

Camping World ought to be able to fix ya right up - it's a very easy install - probably no more than an hour for a qualified mechanic.

If your Sprinter really rocks (and not in a good way) I'm sure you be very happy with the upgrade. You will still feel the wind pushng on the vehicle and eighteen-wheelers going by ...... but you won't have to do anything about it - the constant steering correction is pretty much gone .... and any minor correction you do have to do will require almost no effort. That is the most appealing thing to me - being able to drive the vehicle - and not getting totally worn out from doing so.

 

[Turtle]

Excellent info. Thanks! I've been swaying back and forth on getting one. Now I know.

 

[Broompilot]

Congrats on such a well informed Post. I do not own a Sprinter, ever thinking of getting in a D unit please do me a favor and buy a T-300 as I could use your guidance.

 

[RLENT]

Not that I'm shillin' for these guys or anything but I got a call a couple of days ago from Lenny over at Camping World letting me know that my sway bar was in. Huh ? I installed it a couple of weeks ago.

Turns out Roadmaster sent a second one to Camping World for some reason - so they have an extra one now. I told Lenny that I would post that they have one stock in case maybe someone wants it to maybe save him from having to ship it back.

These guys are located here:

http://www.mapquest.com/maps/map.ad...ate+Parkway&city=Akron&state=OH&zipcode=44312

..... if ya happen to be in the area.

And can be reached at: 330-644-5480

Who knows - maybe he will make ya deal on it.

 

[RLENT]

Kraig,

If I ever get a T300 I think I'll probably calling YOU

 

[RLENT]

Phase II

from it to the compressor & solenoid valves - avoiding having to run additional air lines to the controller to get a pressure reading on each spring's inflation pressure. Beyond that, Air Lift has been doing air springs since 1950 and after almost 60 years ya figure they would know somethin'

The compressor, solenoid valves, and controller are missing from this picture because I had already installed them when I took it.

 

[RLENT]

RE: Phase II

A photo of the compressor and solenoid valve installed in the pedestal base under the passenger seat. I hadn't neatened up the wiring yet and reinstalled the mat on the floor ....... so it's still a bit messy. If I ever stick an auxilary battery under the passenger seat I may have to rearrange things.

 

[RLENT]

RE: Phase II

Here's a photo of the left driver's side air spring installed. I went ahead and installed valve stems (you can see the black rubber cap on the right side of the image about 3/4 of the way up) even though I have the compressor system - I figured that it was good insurance if the compressor ever takes a dump - since ya can't run without at least 5 psi minimum in the springs. I also used plastic wire loom (red in the photo) in key places to avoid an unnecessary chafing of the plastic air line (I hate chafing - unnecesary or otherwise )

Although the install time is listed at 2.5 hours for both the springs themselves and the compressor/controller system, I'm at about two days and counting at this point - and almost done thankfully. The biggest time consumer was figuring out how and where to route things so that everything was well placed and hidden. It was a fairly easy install - but I wanted to take my time and make it a real clean install. I'll post a photo of the controller tomorrow after I finish things up.

 

[RLENT]

RE: Phase II

Well after running two loads - 300 miles/3skids/700lbs and 150 miles/1skid/1400lbs - I'm very happy with the air springs.

Loaded I ran with around 20 to 30 psi - the Sprinter's tendency to roll and wallow is pretty much entirely gone at this point - it is kinda like driving a skateboard Ya stick into a curve and it just sticks.

Curves on the interstate that I was nervous doing at 50 to 55 mph I can now run at 60 or 65 mph.

Unloaded I have run at 15 to 20 psi (15 will probably be the norm.) And zero leakdown after 5 days.

 

[OntarioVanMan]

RE: Phase II

sorry relent

My hood latch is jammed? Ant ideas? takes 2 people to open it...one to push the hood down and 1 to pull the lever.
2005 Sprinter

 

[greg334]

RE: Phase II

>My hood latch is jammed? Ant ideas? takes 2 people to open
>it...one to push the hood down and 1 to pull the lever.
>2005 Sprinter

Is it a problem with all Dodge vans? Or is this a factory 'feature'?

I had the same problem with my wifes Caravan, my sister had the same problem with her brand new T&C and my other sister had the same problem with her caravan.

What we all did was to get brake cleaner and clean the entire mechanism then using a really good lithium grease in spray form soaked the thing. So far so good.

 

[RLENT]

RE: Phase II

Ken,

We had a similar problem on my wifes 2000 VW Passat - it has a little plastic handle under the hood that you are supposed to pull out on to accomplish the final release (after you do the inital release with the lever inside the car)

I would pull and pull on the little plastic handle under the hood and it wouldn't release ..... after trying the brute force method (which only got me a broken off handle in my hand) :+ we ended up taking it into the dealer and having it replaced.

I found out when we got it back the trick was to push down on the hood as you pull the plastic handle (which is a bit of a trick in itself - since your fingers are in there) and it will release.

You are pushing up on the release lever (under the hood, left of center) as you try to open it, after you have released it inside, correct ? Greg's idea to use some white lithium on it sounds like a winner .....

I'd inspect it after you get it open and look for anything that might bent, out of place, etc.

 

[OntarioVanMan]

RE: Phase II

Well I was at a Sheetz here in New Holland PA. I recruited a guy to hold down the hood while I pulled the lever in the cab and it popped up! So I cleaned the mechanism and found an supposed empty oil quart(would you believe how much oil is in one?) and lubed it up...didn't have the lithium...so all is well for now.

Thanks guys!

 

[greg334]

RE: Phase II

Before I forget, I used lithium because I have a lot of it from my autoparts days but you can use any good high temp grease or oil. Thinking about it this morning, the problem is the placement of the lock mechanism over the heat of the radiator or near it coupled with the high underhood temp.