plumcrazy8
Expert Expediter
Got a dead one here too. Anyone else here wondering if the ProHeat people are reading these posts? Just in case they are....H E L P !! Your SERVICE network has FAILED.
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The ProHeat ordeal continues
- Thread starter LDB
- Start date
Rig-master, proheat, idle buster.. They all have one inharent problem that will never be fixed.. Complexity. What do I mean? Look in the box! There is not enough room in that box for a field mouse. They have a engine, a a/c compressor, a generator, electronics, belts and more..
You need to apply the KISS theory.. And the above units missed it completely. However, I know of a way to get you heat, a/c, and more 110 power than you would ever need. All items come with a 3 year nation wide warranty. And it's stuff that has been around since the 60's...
A low profile R/V roof air unit with heat pump and a 5500 watt diesel generator. It costs a tad more up front, but it's simple, can be fixed by most any R/V dealership (theres a ton of them). because they have been around for along time service parts are cheaper and you don't need a PHD to maintain one yourself.
I have done this conversion for a local trucking company and I have been working with a company with a few drivers here about converting the rest of his trucks. As he put it, the pro-heat is nothing but a 7500 dollar boat anchor. He has one truck setup the way I mention and the drivers have yet to complain it is not working.
If your truck is already 14 feet high or you don't have the 9 or so inches the roof unit needs they also make a under body mounted unit that can be ducted through the floor of your sleeper. Of course this requires a lot more frame rail space. Another nice thing is that a roof air unit does not require a flat roof to be mounted on. They can be mounted at a angle for some of the newer style cabs and sleepers.
Sometimes the awnser to the problem is so simple it is overlooked. Check with your local RV dealer. They should be able to quote you somewhere in the 9000-10500 range.
You need to apply the KISS theory.. And the above units missed it completely. However, I know of a way to get you heat, a/c, and more 110 power than you would ever need. All items come with a 3 year nation wide warranty. And it's stuff that has been around since the 60's...
A low profile R/V roof air unit with heat pump and a 5500 watt diesel generator. It costs a tad more up front, but it's simple, can be fixed by most any R/V dealership (theres a ton of them). because they have been around for along time service parts are cheaper and you don't need a PHD to maintain one yourself.
I have done this conversion for a local trucking company and I have been working with a company with a few drivers here about converting the rest of his trucks. As he put it, the pro-heat is nothing but a 7500 dollar boat anchor. He has one truck setup the way I mention and the drivers have yet to complain it is not working.
If your truck is already 14 feet high or you don't have the 9 or so inches the roof unit needs they also make a under body mounted unit that can be ducted through the floor of your sleeper. Of course this requires a lot more frame rail space. Another nice thing is that a roof air unit does not require a flat roof to be mounted on. They can be mounted at a angle for some of the newer style cabs and sleepers.
Sometimes the awnser to the problem is so simple it is overlooked. Check with your local RV dealer. They should be able to quote you somewhere in the 9000-10500 range.
THE TRUCK WE ARE IN NOW HAS A PROHEAT. WE HAD A PROBLEM WITH THE CAPACITOR BURNING OUT ON THE GENERATOR. WENT TO CARRIER DEALER AND THEY HAD IT FIXED IN ABOUT 30 MINUTES. WE NOW HAVE THE PROBLEM WITH THE EVAPORATOR FREEZING UP WHEN WE RUN THE AC. I HAVEN'T WENT TO A DEALER YET. BUT IT APPEARS TO ME WHAT HAPPENS IS. WHEN YOU ARE PARKED ON UNLEVEL GROUND THE WATER DOES NOT COME OUT OF THE DRAIN PAN AND LAYS IN THERE AND FREEZES. WHICH EVENTUALLY DOES NOT ALLOW ANY WATER TO DRAIN. AND FORMS A CHUNK OF ICE. IF YOU SHUT UNIT OFF AND LET IT THAW. IT WILL WORK FINE AGAIN. UNTILL IT FREEZES UP AGAIN. MY HONEST OPINION ON THE UNIT. IS IT IS A OVERPRICED PIECE OF JUNK. IT DOES NOT PRODUCE A GREAT DEAL OF 110 AC POWER AND DOES NOT KEEP A LARGE SLEEPER COOL. MY OLD TRUCK. I PUT TOGETHER A UNIT FOR $4500.00 THAT I NEVER HAD A PROBLEM WITH. ONLY PROBLEM I HAD WAS IT FROZE ME OUT OF THE TRUCK. WHEN I RAN THE AC. WE PUT A YAMAHA 6500 WATT DIESEL WATER COOLER GENERATOR ON OUR TRUCK. PLUMBED IT INTO THE FUEL TANK. AND PUT A COLEMAN 15,000 BTU ROOF AIR UNIT ON THE TRUCK WITH A HEAT STRIP. NEVER HAD ON PROBLEM WITH IT. WE COULD RUN EVERYTHING IN THE TRUCK WITH THE AIR ON. AND NEVER WAS SHORT ON POWER. DOWNSIDE WAS THE UNIT WAS VERY HEAVY. JUST SOME FOOD FOR THOUGHT. THERE ARE OTHER GENERATORS OUT THERE WEIGH LESS. ONAN HAS SOME GREAT UNITS. I THINK WITH SOME INGENUITY YOU CAN PUT TOGETHER A SUPERIOR UNIT ON YOUR OWN. WITH A SMALLER PRICE TAG. AND GET A BETTER RESULT.
Broompilot
Veteran Expediter
I do not know if I agree with the Idle Buster Comment. Reason being you can put a roof top unit with it. It then becomes a pretty good source of power and has much more room inside of it with a larger generator than my Pro-Heat. I believe this is a nice unit.
Anyone using one?????
Anyone using one?????