Testing Batteries

[jjoerger]

I had all batteries load tested today and they all tested good. I bought a new amp meter to test for parasitic drain. With the negative cable off and the meter connected between the negative cable and negative battery terminal it reads 3 amps for a few seconds as the transmission powers up and then drops to around .9.
The problem I have now is that if the battery cables are disconnected or the shut off switch is turned off everything shuts down until the truck is started. No lights, fridge, etc. Turning the key on doesn't do it. It has to be started.
I would like to know how many amps are being used to power everything that we normally run.
Where or how can I test for that.

 

[bubblehead]

I had all batteries load tested today and they all tested good. I bought a new amp meter to test for parasitic drain. With the negative cable off and the meter connected between the negative cable and negative battery terminal it reads 3 amps for a few seconds as the transmission powers up and then drops to around .9.
The problem I have now is that if the battery cables are disconnected or the shut off switch is turned off everything shuts down until the truck is started. No lights, fridge, etc. Turning the key on doesn't do it. It has to be started.
I would like to know how many amps are being used to power everything that we normally run.
Where or how can I test for that.

I started noticing our APU would cycle on more frequently and finally discovered that the New Qualcomm was drawing 2.5 amps until rest mode then it goes to 30ma. I had the time for the rest mode to kick in changed from 10 hrs to 90 minutes and things improved. The Apu went from 3 times in 18 hours to 2 times in 18 hrs. After pulling the fuse to the QualComm, the Apu would cycle one time in about 18 hours just like before. I suspect that the whole QC setup with the Data Cold is actually drawing more but I can't get any answers from the manufacturers or our Carrier. I did buy a SOLAR BA7 to load test the batteries and it also does a system test including starting and charging. It is nearly pocket size and so far has proven accurate (it gives an LED readout of the test results) when I pre-tested my batteries before taking them in to TA for a warranty issue. The two that tested bad were indeed bad and were replaced. TA said if they test the batteries and they are all good, then I will have to pay for the test. The unit cost me $59. I don't think it is by far the best available, but it has performed well for the purpose I bought it for.

 

[BobWolf]

Check the water level. Even some maintainence free bateries have removable caps. If the water is below the bottom of the plastic wells add distilled water at least enough to the bottom of the wells, put a charge on them and see if that works. Just so you know if your bateries are worn out this may finnish them off.
Also remember the two killers of bateries are Shake and Bake. Trucks shake them to death and cars, light trucks, and vans bake them. Exess idling will also destroy the batery

If you have a liftgate check the circuit, mine was secretely drawing down my batery.

Bob Wolf