staying warm?
- Thread starter brycey2010
- Start date
Ray can certainly give you more accurate up-to-date numbers, but when I had mine done in the Sprinter four years ago, it was $1547 for the heater and $350 for the installation, $1897 total. The installation was to the house bank that was already installed, so no additional wiring for anything was needed. That was for the D4. I think it's about $300 more at this point.
The D2 is about $400 or $500 less. Not sure, but in that ballpark. Figure $1500 for the D2, $2000 for the D4, and you won't be off by much.
That's a complete installation, too, with all the necessary accessories such as ducts, mounting brackets, fuel metering pump, control, etc.
The D2 is about $400 or $500 less. Not sure, but in that ballpark. Figure $1500 for the D2, $2000 for the D4, and you won't be off by much.
That's a complete installation, too, with all the necessary accessories such as ducts, mounting brackets, fuel metering pump, control, etc.
RLENT
Veteran Expediter
First winter I had my Espar I had it wired to the starting battery (not really recommended for obvious reasons .....)
Longest I went without running to recharge (while I had it hooked up to the starting battery) was a weekend I got stuck up in Montreal during a snow storm ....
It was cold and very windy ..... and the Espar was crankin' pretty good most of the time ... it ran for over 36 hours non-stop and the truck started up fine - battery didn't even seem low ..... they draw very little juice really ...
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brycey2010
Seasoned Expediter
Great replies, I guess its gotta be the espar, ill look into where to get it installed, thanks to all.........................
Hightech_Hobo
Expert Expediter
I was just on the phone the other day with Espar. I was given a quote for the D4 at around $2400 dollars installed. I have an open sprinter well insulated but Espar recommended the D4.
I had gone in with the idea of a d2 and was expecting to spend 1500 which was still over my budget for this year on the upfits for the sprinter. I am currently using a electric tower heater and a honda 2000i. It woooorks....but only about 20 degrees above ambiant temps.
I am a wimp and given the amount of sitting time we deal with and the lack of control whether that is in the north or the south I'm gonna stick my financial neck out there and order it.
I was arguing with myself about saving $$ by going the d2 route but if I install it myself I can go ahead and get the d4...seems like the best decision...
I have no doubt after being out here for 6 years the espar is the right way to go...but ouch...
Ouch is far better than brrrrrrrrrr! in my humble and wimp based opinion...
Reid
I had gone in with the idea of a d2 and was expecting to spend 1500 which was still over my budget for this year on the upfits for the sprinter. I am currently using a electric tower heater and a honda 2000i. It woooorks....but only about 20 degrees above ambiant temps.
I am a wimp and given the amount of sitting time we deal with and the lack of control whether that is in the north or the south I'm gonna stick my financial neck out there and order it.
I was arguing with myself about saving $$ by going the d2 route but if I install it myself I can go ahead and get the d4...seems like the best decision...
I have no doubt after being out here for 6 years the espar is the right way to go...but ouch...
Ouch is far better than brrrrrrrrrr! in my humble and wimp based opinion...
Reid
Hightech_Hobo
Expert Expediter
Just got off the phone with Ray at espar...Took the dive and bought a d4 which I will install myself while in FL for Thanksgiving week...1865.00 for the kit..estimate 8 hours for a 1st time install..
Will let you all know how it works out when it's all said and done..
Reid
Ps....Ouch!
Will let you all know how it works out when it's all said and done..
Reid
Ps....Ouch!
I know at least three others with open Sprinters who use the D2, and they have no complaints. The D2 will keep you warm in an open Sprinter if the van is insulated. It'll just have to work a little harder to do it is all. Where the D2 may spend a lot of time on Medium power, the D4 will be on low. I have the D4 and highly recommend it.
It has to do with BTU's and Airflow more than anything.
BTU Heat Output
BOOST
D2 - 7,500 BTU
D4 - 13,650 BTU
In HIGH mode:
D2 - 6,150 BTU
D4 - 10,200 BTU
MEDIUM mode:
D2 - 4,100 BTU
D4 - 6,800 BTU
LOW mode:
D2 - 2,900 BTU
D4 - 3,400 BTU
It's easy to see the D2's mode is comparable to the next lower mode of the D4. The D2's HIGH mode is roughly that of the D4's MEDIUM mode, and the D2's MEDIUM mode is roughly that of the D4's LOW mode.
AIR FLOW, air intake, heated air output, in Cubic Feet per Minute (CFM)
BOOST
D2 - 48 cfm
D4 - 85 cfm
HIGH
D2 - 40 cfm
D4 - 69 cfm
MEDIUM
D2 - 27 cfm
D4 - 50 cfm
LOW
D2 - 19 cfm
D4 - 30 cfm
The D4 has a larger air intake and heat output hose, so considerably more air can be moved throughout the space with the same amount of amps of battery power. Which also means more BTU's can be moved in less time, more efficiently. On the surface, it's easy to think of air flow as nothing more than fan speed, but this is an important factor as it ties in directly with fuel consumption as well as battery amps. Less air flow means the heater need to manufacture more BTU's for longer periods of time, which affects fuel consumption, amps required, and at which level (HIGH, MEDIUM, LOW) the unit spends most of its time.
One of the important keys to even heat throughout the van is good, even, well dispersed airflow in the van. You need have the proper duct work for the heater to achieve good air flow. In an open Sprinter, you'll want the heated air output to be as far away from the air intake as possible. That means running a section of duct hose to near the rear of the van, while the heated air output is near the front of the van. Don't just let the heater sit there with no intake hose on the back of the unit, because the fluid dynamics of the output to the input is where the airflow will take place, and the heat will not be evenly spread throughout the van.
Good luck with the install.
It has to do with BTU's and Airflow more than anything.
BTU Heat Output
BOOST
D2 - 7,500 BTU
D4 - 13,650 BTU
In HIGH mode:
D2 - 6,150 BTU
D4 - 10,200 BTU
MEDIUM mode:
D2 - 4,100 BTU
D4 - 6,800 BTU
LOW mode:
D2 - 2,900 BTU
D4 - 3,400 BTU
It's easy to see the D2's mode is comparable to the next lower mode of the D4. The D2's HIGH mode is roughly that of the D4's MEDIUM mode, and the D2's MEDIUM mode is roughly that of the D4's LOW mode.
AIR FLOW, air intake, heated air output, in Cubic Feet per Minute (CFM)
BOOST
D2 - 48 cfm
D4 - 85 cfm
HIGH
D2 - 40 cfm
D4 - 69 cfm
MEDIUM
D2 - 27 cfm
D4 - 50 cfm
LOW
D2 - 19 cfm
D4 - 30 cfm
The D4 has a larger air intake and heat output hose, so considerably more air can be moved throughout the space with the same amount of amps of battery power. Which also means more BTU's can be moved in less time, more efficiently. On the surface, it's easy to think of air flow as nothing more than fan speed, but this is an important factor as it ties in directly with fuel consumption as well as battery amps. Less air flow means the heater need to manufacture more BTU's for longer periods of time, which affects fuel consumption, amps required, and at which level (HIGH, MEDIUM, LOW) the unit spends most of its time.
One of the important keys to even heat throughout the van is good, even, well dispersed airflow in the van. You need have the proper duct work for the heater to achieve good air flow. In an open Sprinter, you'll want the heated air output to be as far away from the air intake as possible. That means running a section of duct hose to near the rear of the van, while the heated air output is near the front of the van. Don't just let the heater sit there with no intake hose on the back of the unit, because the fluid dynamics of the output to the input is where the airflow will take place, and the heat will not be evenly spread throughout the van.
Good luck with the install.