I have a 2004 sprinter thats in the shop more than on the road newest problem is when you go to start van there is no power, this problemn is intermitent and I have had the alternator and battery tested all ok but something is draining power fast and when it wants to. Any info would be helpful, thanks PS nothing new or different added to vehicle in 2yrs
Sprinter Van Problems
- Thread starter markafd
- Start date
Markafd:
I have no solution to your specific problem, but perhaps a preventive remedy that might circumvent problems for those outfitting a new vehicle.
Each of my vans have two deep-cycle batteries and a seperate fuse block through which I connect all auxilliary electical equipment. Qualcomm, TV, TV antenna, fans, reading and cargo lights and three power port outlets are all isolated from the trucks electical systems.
I have no solution to your specific problem, but perhaps a preventive remedy that might circumvent problems for those outfitting a new vehicle.
Each of my vans have two deep-cycle batteries and a seperate fuse block through which I connect all auxilliary electical equipment. Qualcomm, TV, TV antenna, fans, reading and cargo lights and three power port outlets are all isolated from the trucks electical systems.
jeffman164
Seasoned Expediter
I'm going to be doing the same thing in a straight truck but with 4 batteries. Never heard of having a seperate fuse box though.Is a seperate fuse box necessary ? I'm going to have peace of mind knowing that I'm not draining the main batteries and it's going to start on those COLD COLD mornings.
I use a fuse for each item in the event something goes goofy with the gadget or the wireing shorts. I'd rather have a blown fuse rather than a hot wire and eventual fire. An inline fuse is a good alternative to the block but the block is cheaper and handier.
Hi
If you have a multi-tester you can easily isolate the problem.Set the tester to 20 volts DC.Remove the negative battery terminal, place the red probe to the battery post and put the black probe to the terminal end.If you get a reading above.100 something is draining your battery.If you have a QC be sure to remove the main fuse under the hood.See how much drop you get.Then remove each individual fuse in the fuse box under the dash checking for voltage drop with each fuse.
Lets say you have a reading of .600 volts before disabling the QC and then .500 after, that is normal draw of the QC.Then you pull the fuse for the brake lights and you drop to .100 then the problem is in the brake light system (usually the plug is corroded).If you can not find the voltage drop in the fuses in the dash move out to the relays under the hood.A bad relay can kill a healthy battery in under 6 hours.They run your heater blower motor, wipers, and fuel pump basiclly anything that uses variable voltage.
If this doesn't work then reconnect the negative cable and hook up the volt meter.Black to neg and red to pos.Leave it set for 20 volts DC.You should get a reading of 12.5 or more.Then start engine and you should get a ready of 14 or more.This means the altenator is charging the battery.Now shut off the engine and watch for a slow voltage drop.Make sure all electrical devices are shut off and disconnect your spare batteries.Now slowly turn on each device one at a time watch for a faster decrease in voltage.Good luck.Hope this helps.
If you have a multi-tester you can easily isolate the problem.Set the tester to 20 volts DC.Remove the negative battery terminal, place the red probe to the battery post and put the black probe to the terminal end.If you get a reading above.100 something is draining your battery.If you have a QC be sure to remove the main fuse under the hood.See how much drop you get.Then remove each individual fuse in the fuse box under the dash checking for voltage drop with each fuse.
Lets say you have a reading of .600 volts before disabling the QC and then .500 after, that is normal draw of the QC.Then you pull the fuse for the brake lights and you drop to .100 then the problem is in the brake light system (usually the plug is corroded).If you can not find the voltage drop in the fuses in the dash move out to the relays under the hood.A bad relay can kill a healthy battery in under 6 hours.They run your heater blower motor, wipers, and fuel pump basiclly anything that uses variable voltage.
If this doesn't work then reconnect the negative cable and hook up the volt meter.Black to neg and red to pos.Leave it set for 20 volts DC.You should get a reading of 12.5 or more.Then start engine and you should get a ready of 14 or more.This means the altenator is charging the battery.Now shut off the engine and watch for a slow voltage drop.Make sure all electrical devices are shut off and disconnect your spare batteries.Now slowly turn on each device one at a time watch for a faster decrease in voltage.Good luck.Hope this helps.
Hi
There are only two systems that use enough juice to drain a battery in minutes.The heater/ac and the starter.Both are very noticeable either the starter would not disengage which make a horrible noise or the heater blower motor runs all the time.Sounds like it a problem with the batteries or the terminal ends need replaced.The problem with the factory terminal end is they are completely inclosed and you can't see where the cable is clamped into the terminal end.If these are loose this would cause an intermmitant no start.
I had a similar problem this fall.Everything would check out fine with the voltmeter and continuety test.Had the batteries load tested at Auto Zone and they showed that they were fine.Put the batteries back into the truck and it wouldn't start.I touched the side of the battery with my hand and it was hot.One of the plates inside the battery was loose and would flop around and short out the battery and then would flop back into place and would work and test fine.I took the battery out of my personal vehicle and it started right up.Worse thing is Auto Zone wouldn't honor the warrentee because they could never get the battery to load test bad.
There are only two systems that use enough juice to drain a battery in minutes.The heater/ac and the starter.Both are very noticeable either the starter would not disengage which make a horrible noise or the heater blower motor runs all the time.Sounds like it a problem with the batteries or the terminal ends need replaced.The problem with the factory terminal end is they are completely inclosed and you can't see where the cable is clamped into the terminal end.If these are loose this would cause an intermmitant no start.
I had a similar problem this fall.Everything would check out fine with the voltmeter and continuety test.Had the batteries load tested at Auto Zone and they showed that they were fine.Put the batteries back into the truck and it wouldn't start.I touched the side of the battery with my hand and it was hot.One of the plates inside the battery was loose and would flop around and short out the battery and then would flop back into place and would work and test fine.I took the battery out of my personal vehicle and it started right up.Worse thing is Auto Zone wouldn't honor the warrentee because they could never get the battery to load test bad.
Just had the van serviced and the outcome was a dead cell in the battery, which is odd because I had the battery tested last week. I guess a second opinion does not hurt but the jury is still out to see if thats the problem. everything else that came up on the check engine light ( which I did not mention) still cost $700. Note to self and others If you get a sprinter(which I recommend not) budget amount equal to payment of vehicle for maintenance(no lie I can document) thanks for the advise and good luck in 2007.