securing loads
- Thread starter billman11
- Start date
chefdennis
Veteran Expediter
e-track, straps, a few load retaining bars..either wood set in e-track "pockets" or manufactured spring and lock bars...oh and a wood floor finished smooth so the freight can move easily when it has to, like loading and unloading...
Expeditus Transport
(419) 464-7678
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Slo-Ride
Veteran Expediter
Bill
There is no cheap way,,only the right way..Your life and the life of others depend on it..
Not sure where ya live..But
Try alumni-bunk in telodo ohio..
They have all kinds of tear out e-track that you maybe able to cut to fit your van....some of it bent and twisted,,,some is straight...I beleive your securment devises in the vans have to be rated just as any other truck out here..If I am wrong a van driver will correct me pretty fast I am sure.
There is no cheap way,,only the right way..Your life and the life of others depend on it..
Not sure where ya live..But
Try alumni-bunk in telodo ohio..
They have all kinds of tear out e-track that you maybe able to cut to fit your van....some of it bent and twisted,,,some is straight...I beleive your securment devises in the vans have to be rated just as any other truck out here..If I am wrong a van driver will correct me pretty fast I am sure.
chefdennis
Veteran Expediter
I know that the major carriers cover securing freight and they check to see how you are securing it..and the Safety & Compliance" person is only interested in a safe way of containment..securing freight was covered during orientation and it was made clear that it was to be done in a way that the INSURANCE company approved as well as DOT, even if you were in a cargo van.
as was said, the cheap way ain't the right or safe way....
as was said, the cheap way ain't the right or safe way....
ebsprintin
Veteran Expediter
Do a search in the forums for--"cargo van" e-track. Most of the classic cargo van load securement threads will show.
eb
eb
greg334
Veteran Expediter
The quick and easy way is not as quick but effective.
I modeled my securement system after Terry's system of Rene and Terry fame - it had years of perfecting before I copied it and it never ever failed me.
I will describe it here as best as I can, but rather than all of that I will post a picture (actually I can't find the document with the dimensions and parts used).
One picture is looking into the van and another is my little tool rack.
I modeled my securement system after Terry's system of Rene and Terry fame - it had years of perfecting before I copied it and it never ever failed me.
I will describe it here as best as I can, but rather than all of that I will post a picture (actually I can't find the document with the dimensions and parts used).
One picture is looking into the van and another is my little tool rack.
Jack_Berry
Moderator Emeritus
Jack_Berry
Moderator Emeritus
floor is snap together hardwood. walls are 18" tall and L bracketed to the high density fiberboard over the metal van floor.
you didn't ask but the walls are coated in reflectix. so is the ceiling and sides and ceiling are covered is 1/4" plywood finished one side.
for some loads i use straps to center a load in the middle of the truck.
you didn't ask but the walls are coated in reflectix. so is the ceiling and sides and ceiling are covered is 1/4" plywood finished one side.
for some loads i use straps to center a load in the middle of the truck.
Jack_Berry
Moderator Emeritus
ratchet straps moot?
Yeah, a pair of gray ratchet straps, a pair of gray cam lock straps and a pair of yellow cam lock straps.
Slo-Ride
Veteran Expediter
Of course they would work as long as they fit your vehicle & depending on what your trying to secure..Each strap,,each load bar,,,each set up chains,,each set binders has a purpose,,they are tools and its up to the driver to know how to use em and use the proper one for each load...And then there are times ya still need to get inventive with what ya got..
guido4475
Not a Member
Okay, here is the way I set up my Ford van, after several tips from everyone on here.
FLOOR- I welded 2-8 ft sections of e-track to the floor, spaced evenly apart,(24 inches) then screwed 3/4 inch regular plywood to the metal floor.Stained and polyurethaned.
WALLS- There is 12 inches high on each side against the wheel wells from front to back of 1/8 thick steel, welded to 2" high angle iron, which is welded to the floor.There are also one row of e-track welded to the side walls.
FRONT WALL- The 12" steel continues and connects the 12" side pieces together in the front and welded together, creating a 12" high steel box with an opening in the back, at the rear doors.The rear airtight wall/bulkhead of the sleeper is bolted to this front 12" high steel and bolted to a 2" piece of angle iron at the top, going from side to side, welded at both ends.The back wall is 3/4"plywood also.
I prefer straps, ratcheting.But I do have those brackets that hold 2x4 pieces into them that snap into e-track also.If you want to use load bars,Find some at docks and ask if you can have them, and drill out one rivet using a 1/2" drill bit, and then pull the end out and cut the rectangular body 5" shorter than you need, then slide the end back into the body and drill a new 1/2" hole, and use a 1/2" dia bolt and stop-nut.
Keep in mind, this added alot of weight to the van, so you may want to use lighter materials.I wanted some kind of protection between me and the freight.(straight truck driver thinking)
FLOOR- I welded 2-8 ft sections of e-track to the floor, spaced evenly apart,(24 inches) then screwed 3/4 inch regular plywood to the metal floor.Stained and polyurethaned.
WALLS- There is 12 inches high on each side against the wheel wells from front to back of 1/8 thick steel, welded to 2" high angle iron, which is welded to the floor.There are also one row of e-track welded to the side walls.
FRONT WALL- The 12" steel continues and connects the 12" side pieces together in the front and welded together, creating a 12" high steel box with an opening in the back, at the rear doors.The rear airtight wall/bulkhead of the sleeper is bolted to this front 12" high steel and bolted to a 2" piece of angle iron at the top, going from side to side, welded at both ends.The back wall is 3/4"plywood also.
I prefer straps, ratcheting.But I do have those brackets that hold 2x4 pieces into them that snap into e-track also.If you want to use load bars,Find some at docks and ask if you can have them, and drill out one rivet using a 1/2" drill bit, and then pull the end out and cut the rectangular body 5" shorter than you need, then slide the end back into the body and drill a new 1/2" hole, and use a 1/2" dia bolt and stop-nut.
Keep in mind, this added alot of weight to the van, so you may want to use lighter materials.I wanted some kind of protection between me and the freight.(straight truck driver thinking)
guido4475
Not a Member
Very beautiful work, Mr.Berry.Something to be proud of.
bdmj989900
Seasoned Expediter
I would have to agree. The inside of the van looks nice. The floor in my kitchen is not that nice. Mr. Berry you did a great job.
Expeditus Transport
(419) 464-7678
Advertiser
We provide 24-7-365 service for CDL - Straight truck Owners Operators and Fleet owners. Run Over the Road - Regional - or Local in some areas ! If you have a Straight truck with a Sleeper that is what we are looking for . No Day cabsNo age requirement on the truck . -Must pass annual Dot .Join the Fleet that has the Best Dispatch , ... Apply Today!