Raised roofs

mjmsprt40

Veteran Expediter
Owner/Operator
Thinking about what Moot had to say about the top of the doors: I got curious so I measured mine. Depending on where exactly you make the cut-- this is a custom job so where the cut is made is up to you-- you will get at least a 48" opening at the top of the doors. I measured past the curve to where the doorposts are nearly upright on my old beast of a Chevy, came up with the idea that it would clear 48" wide--- depending of course on how you file and fit your door opening.

Personal note: I wouldn't do this modification on anything less than a 3500 series van. Something in the back of my mind says you give up too much payload on a 2500, I also would like to know "for sure" that the structural integrity of the van isn't compromised too much by the alterations.
 

21cExp

Veteran Expediter
I'm not sure where the door frame would be cut to accommodate extensions. On my 2004 Chevy, the top corners where the radius of the vertical frame meets the header is only 48" in width. This has caused a few problems with tall wide loads like those plastic automotive parts bins with the single piece top cap.

Amen. My '08 GMC is the same. I've had to remove the plastic lids on tall automotive bins a couple times (as well as remove the top door catch) to allow the bins to slide in, then slide the lids back in place once the bins are in. Then reverse the process at the drop.

It would take some very clever planning and strategic reinforcement to allow a more consistent width if raising both the roof and doors. You could leave the long inside upper sides in place but would definitely have to re-strengthen the back end, as that cross piece across the back is integral to maintaining the wrap around strength. A big long horizontal round cornered rectangle, if you will.

I see some high top conversions cut from mid way up, removing everything back of the cab roof. Got to really have faith in your installer and see previous work they've done and see how the whole unit sways or not, as well as how the back doors fit and seal. As mentioned in another thread months ago, it's rare to find good back door arrangements that are secure and seal well in aftermarket high tops.
 
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sirgregory46

Expert Expediter
Thinking about what Moot had to say about the top of the doors: I got curious so I measured mine. Depending on where exactly you make the cut-- this is a custom job so where the cut is made is up to you-- you will get at least a 48" opening at the top of the doors. I measured past the curve to where the doorposts are nearly upright on my old beast of a Chevy, came up with the idea that it would clear 48" wide--- depending of course on how you file and fit your door opening.

Personal note: I wouldn't do this modification on anything less than a 3500 series van. Something in the back of my mind says you give up too much payload on a 2500, I also would like to know "for sure" that the structural integrity of the van isn't compromised too much by the alterations.


They do it all the time for wheel chair vans. So they have come up with good seals on the rear door.
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sirgregory46

Expert Expediter
As far as I weight remember you're taking a large piece of steel off the top. My van is a ton van so I will still have a good payload.

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